Here are the links to the materials: U- Joint: amzn.to/2vCPZ2t Center Support Bearing: amzn.to/2MEStDV Check out my main website! www.kflo-krib.com Get yourself a T-Shirt! teespring.kflo-krib.com/ #Toyotatacoma #DIY #MechanicalEngineer
More tips and tricks that you can use for this job: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WynAGnBgXJA.html Here are the links to the materials: U- Joint: amzn.to/2vCPZ2t Center Support Bearing: amzn.to/2MEStDV
Just replaced my carrier bearing and 3x u-joints today. Huge thanks to you as I watched your video and did the work step-by-step. Again I think you have some of the most informative Tacoma videos out and I often refer your videos to others on tacomaworld. Thank brother I appreciate it 🙏 👍
I was told my carrier bearing on 2008 4WD Tacoma needs replaced relatively soon. Mechanic said I had to replace the ENTIRE drive line (both shafts) with it, that I couldn't just replace the carrier bearing. This video seems to indicate it can be replaced. Thoughts?
@@brianevans6860 unless your driveline is all dented up you’re totally fine reusing it. Like the guy above said, don’t go back to the mechanic that told you that.
Just finished doing this on my 2008 TRD Sport, 2 wheel drive, Double Cab V6, Automatic. Did not have as many bolts holding Drive Shaft as you showed, as there were 4 bolts, washers and nuts holding drive shaft flange to Differential. There were no similar bolts on the transmission end, just the Slip Yoke which goes into the transmission. There are the same two screws holding the Carrier Bearing to Frame and the same Nut holding the Carrier Bearing on to the middle Spline Yoke. Your video saved me a lot of research time. Ordered the parts on eBay and obtained The Spicer Select U-Joints and Spicer Carrier Bearing. I moved slowly and methodically and got the job done, thanks to watching your video. Thank you for making and posting as it was excellent resource to have available. What I thought was a worn Carrier Bearing turned out to be 3 bad needle bearing ends of the U Joints. They were rusted away and turned into Rust Dust. They had no grease fittings and were never replaced. My Truck has 170, 891 miles, and only when I went into reverse did I get squeaking, sounded like a bird chirping. Never made any noise when moving forward. It was like having a backup warning signal, which I will miss. NOT! Next project: replacing leaking rear axle seals, and potentially damaged bearings which are contaminated from the rear differential fluid washing into and deteriorating the bearing grease. Not sure I have the strength to do this type of repair, as I am feeling my age after this repair. Happy 4th of July Weekend!
Excellent, great to hear. My next video is on the rear wheel bearings and axle seals. It's being edited and will be out in a few weeks. Stay tuned and thanks for supporting the channel. Happy 4th as well!
@@KFloTacoma, That's great to hear and I look forward to seeing it. I have the 20 Ton press (I got the HF Press for $50 from a FB Marketplace ad) and was going to buy all the Toyota genuine parts from eBay, which I already have selected and saved to my watch list. I also was going to get the rear axle bearing tool for pulling the hub and tone ring, as seen on Timmy The Toolman channel. But, I have not pulled the trigger on doing anything yet. Have to decide if I want to pay a mechanic. Biggest concern is how to make certain the Tone Rings are not pressed on too far, and what size gap has to remain so the speed sensor ring will still work. Due to the fluid leaking, the rear brake pads are getting saturated...so it is a big job which has to be done sometime soon. Need to pay for a new roof first before I have to think about the leaking seal.
Excellent video, actually replaced all three U-joints and carriage bearing with no other reference needed. Thanks for taking the time, you truly do have a knack for communicating technical information. Keep them coming REP
Just did this job on my 2007 Tacoma 4x4, couldn't have done it without this tutorial. Make sure you have the u-joint press I didn't have one and it was a monster to do it without.
Great instructions. Followed for my 2010 (110K) Taco after getting some vibration under the seat. Took approx 3 hours for the three U joints (did not do the carrier bearing). I used the U joint tool from Advanced Auto (free) and it made it a lot easier than hammering. Everything you said was exactly what was required. Truck now runs great again. Thanks for your help!
Great video, I am about 75% done, I took notes and am very happy so far. I never thought that Center Support Bearing was going to come off the shaft but it did. The press made everything super easy. Getting a good angle on the nuts when taking off the drive shaft was hell since i started off doing it by myself, it was very timely, eventually my kids came home and were happy to shift the truck back and forth for me. Thank you so much for the video. I spent much less money then if I would have taken it to the mechanic and the last time this same thing happened apparently they only changed 1 of the U-Joints and the other two were dust this time.
Finally stopped raining and I finished today and test drove it, runs perfect, thank you so much for the video! Next i'm going to try alignment once I get some new tires... Was thinking Michelin any suggestions for all-season mostly highway and in town?
Used this video the past few days. Excellent video! Ive watched at least 10x as Ive gone along my repair. Quick note though FSM lists torque on the nut for the Yolk for those at 134 ft lbs, then remove nut and go to 51 ft lbs. First value to seat the bearing, 2nd value is the torque spec. By the way the breaker bar through the ears was a phenomenal idea!
For the grooves, another option is to get the 4-pack of orange-handled picks from Harbor Freight and use the one with the L-shaped tip to scrape them out. For cleaning out the bores, I used a Dremel with the mini drum sander attachment.
Great thorough video! I haven't done a u joint in a long time, your tips refreshed my memory, and several things I hadn't thought about. You made the most out of only 11 minutes! I thank you! Same driveshaft as my 98 T100.
Yea, i tried my best to condense the installs as much as possible so that the viewers are not waiting around or have to skip around. I appreciate the feedback!
Definitely I subscribe..I love this video. Bcz it's giving me an idea what the mecánic said about my Toyota Previa 92. Now I have to look where to buy things it's need to replace... Thank youuuu..
It's probably worth mentioning that the shaft is balanced as a complete unit and that is why it's important to put on the alignment marks. It was balanced with that alignment so if it doesn't go back together the same way it may not be balanced.
Great instructions. I changed the three ujoints and carrier bearing. Installed the drive shaft with no issues. Now I have a vibration that I didn’t have before Any suggestions other than taking it all apart and reassembling it? Thank you for your time.
Watched all the videos for transmission, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, release bearing etc. All excellent and with the torque information! All went smoothly, now do you have a A video on how to install and adjust and bleed the clutch master and slave cylinders?
Yes sir. You'll have to watch my solo brake bleed video in this channel. I briefly go over it in the video. Thanks for watching and supporting the channel
After frame replacement, Dealer wants to replace the whole driveshaft because center support bearing was broken, they says are not able to replace just the support bearing... $1500... I did my homework and found this video.. thank you...
I've watched a few of your outstanding videos and have a request. Any chance you could do a segment on DIY automatic transmission fluid, filter, and flush?
Do you know the part number for that staked carrier bearing nut? Ive got to replace my CB again and want to get a new one. Cant find the number anywhere
Awesome video, I believe either my carrier bearing is bad or u-joint on my first gen Tacoma. I have play in the carrier bearing when i went below also i have a popping noise when accelerating from a stop. Does this sound like the fix? thanks
There is supposed to be some play in the carrier bearing since it's cored with rubber. Popping noise from accelerating from a stop comes from loose ball joints or motor/transmission mounts
Excellent video, thank you! Do you need to make sure the zerk fittings are oriented the same on the new u-joints as on the originals relative to the driveshaft? Does that effect the balance of the driveshaft?
Zerk fittings are very negligible in terms of actual weight balancing. I went from zerks that were on the center of the cross to zerks that are on the outside by the needle bearings. No vibration issues
Thank you for great video! I have a 2009 Taco automatic 4wd TRD sport. Do I need to have the truck on jack stands to be able to spin the rear drive shaft by hand in neutral? Or can this be done with the truck on the ground after I disconnect the flange plate from the rear differential?
Awesome video man, about to go do my u joints and carrier bearing. I ordered the Spicer 5-213X joints. These say they will fit, do you know if they will work?
Hi KFlo, I replaced the 3 U Joints and the carrier bearing on my 2011 Tacoma TRD 4x4 AT, one of the ujoints was actually missing needle bearings so the truck was making a knocking sound when I would come to a full stop and when I would accelerated from a dead stop, greatly improved after I completed the work, but once in a while I’m still getting a knocking sound from a dead stop, any suggestions? Thanks
K-flow awesome video, I just replaced a u-joint and center carrier. My question to you I ended up using the blue lock tight to attach the driveshaft, is that ok or should I have gone with red lock tight?
Blue loctite is totally fine - as long as you torqued it to spec. I would recommend rechecking the torque again after a week or so, just to double check that it stayed put
That's a good idea. It definitely wouldn't hurt. I would just advise to mark the slip joint and make sure the joint is put back in the proper angle to prevent any vibrations from occurring
@@KFloTacoma my son and I used what we learned from your videos to replace the u-joints, carrier bearing and one upper ball joint on his 2011 Tacoma. In addition, we cleaned and greased the slip joint shaft. We were careful to mark everything with a paint marker to ensure that we put it all back in the correct alignment. Two of the u-joints were ok, but the third was totally shot; the needle bearings had turned to dust. We rented a ball joint press from Auto Zone, which made it much easier. The driveshaft portion was pretty straightforward, but the ball joint was a real pain; had a hard time getting it to go in straight, my c-clip pliers were too small, and we couldn’t get the boot to stay on. We eventually got everything in, so all’s we’ll….Thanks again for a great video.
The shaft is balanced individually. You mount it as is. If the new one has vibrations, then you'll need to take it to the driveline shop to balance it to the truck.
Amazing, I Really appreciate that video. I use to be a pretty good parts changer. I haven't been under a vehicle for 15yrs, with the exception of oil changes. Your Fresh reminders and good audio was Great. I thought I'd save money by just removing the drive shaft assembly and exchanging it for a rebuilt one @ Drive Train Ind. $475 !!!!!!! Send me that donation page you have I gotcha$$ Covered.
Awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you! You can definitely support the content creation of my channel by going on Patreon.kflo-krib.com or by sharing my vids with your tacoma friends!
Yessir, you can watch my light bar installation video. I put an external switch system in the cab: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rSHSqifQfZ4.html&ab_channel=KFloTacoma
Hey how do you know when its time to replace these ? I fixed my trucks problem with the wheel sticking out on one side more . The bed was out of alignment
What do you suggest to do if your u-joint zerk fittings will not take grease. I used a pick to moving the ball in the zerk and cleaned them up really good. Grease just pushes out the side of the zerk on all u-joints and I can’t see any grease getting pushed out of the u-joint itself.
Hi K Flo,I'll attempt to do this on my 98 tacoma 3.4 4x4 is there anything you would recommend since is 4x4? I'm not a mechanic to start with but I like to get my hands greasy once in a while and I have done some repairs on my tacoma before. Thanks for your videos and I hope I can stop the vibrations/hammering when switching gears and right after pressing gas pedal.
My truck is also a 4x4. The front wheels are driven by the front CV axle assembly and is completely independent from the driveshaft/propeller shaft that's driving the rear. It's a pretty straight forward job to tackle, just take your time. Hopefully this fixes your hammering issues.
Great video man as always. Did you have a vibration or did you just feel it was time to change it? How many miles did you have on your rig at the time of video? Also do you have a 4wd or prerunner?
I had some chirping happening at the driveline when I was coming from a dead stop. Upon further inspection, the u joints had some play. I replaced the U-joints at around 110,000 Miles. To answer your last question, I have a 4wd.
If you marked the flanges before you took them off so that they can be put back in the same orientation, you typically don't have to rebalance. Most of the mass of the drive shaft is on the shaft not so much in the joints.
Yessirree. All three u joints are the same for the rear diff. Just make sure you pick the MOOGs from my Amazon page. The spicer ones are for the front diff
How much play should the driveshaft have inside the center support bearing? My Tacoma has quite a lot of play and I’m not sure if needs to be replaced or not.
Hey bro after fixing the rear u joint on my 2010 Tacoma my drive feels a little too smooth. Also , before changing the bad u joint ride was bump and vibrating always. My tacoma now feels like it takes about 2 seconds to decelerate , is that normal?! Im worried I screwed something up , yet my truck feels smooth is it because i got so used to the rumble and shaking of the truck wwith the bad ujoint? Thank you!
