DIY Waste Oil Heater. Audio not best. Second video is better! 

Couldn’t agree more. Especially with rising energy costs!

Thank you!

I actually have a newer video showing some better detail as I had several questions.

You are very correct. Which is why I did produce a more detailed video later Without the furnace running. I believe it is viable on the channel?

Welcome. This is actually the first video. I did a follow up with more detail as others were asking just in case you may want/need more information. Thanks for watching.

Nicholas Smith so sorry I didn’t see your comment/question. I don’t stay logged into RU-vid. But we are working on comments. That said I will try to produce another detailed video. It doesn’t use much air but a large compressor with quick recovery is good idea if this will run constant. Or if you can find the air pump that is driven off the becket motor then no need to worry about separate compressor. Make sure air is dry. I run approx 15-20 psi but that’s because I have a valve ahead of the siphon nozzle so I can adjust the flame.

Thanks. Sound interesting for sure. I can say the fluent isn’t very hot. Sure has wasted heat but the main furnace has a ceramic “baffle” inside the flame hits and it does a great job of absorbing it and exchanging heat to the air. That said there is always more to be had!!

Geez. Sounds like a cool setup. Not surprised if it were actually buried by those in power.

The kit to convert becket burner came from ckburners.com The furnace was sourced from a person selling used fuel oil heater they converted to new bags furnace.

It’s a siphon type nozzle swirls the oil and air at the top and injects oil as an atomized mist. It works great. Heat is pretty well needed. Mainly to thin oil to actually be capable of atomizing. Also it being hot makes it easy to flash when exposed to flame or spark from igniter.

j jones hi there! My husband made this video. I would suggest emailing him directly at moparman141@hotmail.com. He would be able to answer all your detailed questions.

(This is Kenny replying). I could see about making an updated video. Soon I’ll be cleaning and firing the furnace for the winter. But I can answer a couple of the questions now. -I did use CK burners siphon nozzle kit. Intended to convert a standard becket burner to burn waste oil. Kit comes with nozzle, heating element, and circuit board and relay. -I use shop air. I wanted the pump they used to sell that took the place of the becket oil pump, but it seems they don’t carry it anymore. So shop air works just fine with a water separator and pressure regulator at the nozzle.

I realized this is a 2yrs old comment. But I see it was the original video. I have since done a follow up video with more detail incase your still looking

Which heating element are you referring to? The one at the nozzle block or the pre-heater in the ammo can??

By follow up are you talking about a video or direct contact with me? I hope to make an updated video with some more details. We don’t invest allot of time in RU-vid yet “editing and such” however hoping to get into more of that. If direct contact is can send you email to reach me. As for a schematic I’d have to draw something up I guess or more pictures. The CK burner kit @ ckburners.com does have some more inform there you may like.

Jus seen 1 ur post. How i need to wire up the heat block. Like to thermostat controll. Thanks again

@@victortrimble4741 ok I think I may accidentally be replying to you on two different comments 😭. At any rate yes you need a “thermostat controlled” heating element of some sort. Again I used the CKburners kit because it came with the nozzle, block, element, thermocouple, and the “Thermostat” which in this kit is more like a controller. It’s the box with digital readout and a set point. This will maintain the temperature you require and feeds the heating element power though a small relay. All which is included in the kit and shown in the video. As for wiring it’s a simple two wire hook up with this kit. Hope it helps!!??

CKburners.com. They have a full kit and piece meal options. If you get the main kit with the controller and the relay it will come with diagram for install.

Another side note I did do a follow up video I keep forgetting people responding to this video are not the ones seeing the other! It may help show you more of the inside details of the unit.

I assume your talking about the unit on side of furnace?? That is basically just the air pressure regulator with a water separator. The air is primary way this type of system works (Causes a siphon effect at the nozzle head to draw in oil). I’ve just added the ability to send that oil under pressure from the pump to nozzle and not rely totally on suction

Ok great explanation on what you have done and let’s start with a few questions of my own. 1. Did you buy/use a CK burners kit or something else? 2. When you did the install did you keep the existing pressure pump that was already on the Becket unit or did you bypass it? I can explain more but if you answers these first will help direct my answer much better.

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 didn't buy the CK burner kit, made my own nozzle preheater, and preheat tank. Used a siphoning nozzle, .65 gallons an hour. Tried 10-20 psi. Didn't have any changes. I'm using the Bekket burner pump to pull from the heat tank and replace, have a Tee in the return line running to the siphon nozzle. With no ball valve, I'm thinking since the return line goes up 2 feet to the tank its building too much pressure in the line and most of its being pushed out the siphon nozzle

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 did you take out the kaowool burn chamber out of the oil furnace

@@brutusjb3814 Ok so reason for my questions helps me to understand what you have. If I correctly understand things the problem is you have pressure (even though it’s probably small) at your nozzle which allows for excessive flow through the nozzle. It does two things. Sprays way too much and can’t fully atomize due to excessive flow. You need to restrict the flow to the nozzle with a valve of some sort (I like the ball valves myself). If you do this and keep your current pressure pump you won’t have to move the preheat can. That said you are correct that the siphon nozzle does require the feed tank to be lower than the nozzle itself in a pure “suction” type setup. If you lower the tank and remove the pump then no ball valve required. In my setup I chose to keep the pressure pump, put a ball valve ahead of the nozzle, and have a “t” a head of the ball valve to allow flow back to the tank. This will purge any air and create a constant loop to filter oil and keep it all good and hot. A side benefit with this is you can actually increase or decrease your output (flame/btu) a bit based on needs. One last thing to note. As the oil heats up or what your burning has a viscosity change, say you get a batch of real thin oil or even some diesel mixed in, you will need to adjust the ball valve setting to achieve the flame you desire. They said it usually isn’t an issue. But will happen vs the siphon nozzle only which will work the same in most all cases.

@@brutusjb3814 I don’t believe my unit has that. It just had a very simple ceramic liner that really didn’t do more than keep the flame from directly impacting the back wall of heat exchanger. As before stated Im pretty certain your getting pressure at your nozzle instead of the “Venturi affect” or a vacuum which “pulls” the oil from source to the nozzle and mixes at the nozzle. Good luck!! Keep the questions coming if needed.

You are correct on that. Which is why I made another much more detailed video a little later and fan noise isn’t an issue. Also the aspect ratio is better. When I recorded it I didn’t realize how much the fan affect things but kept it up because quite frankly at that time we had terrible Internet service and up load speeds were in the single digits. So to edit or make another video was tasking. I waited till better service came and people showed interest in the burner to make a better one. You should be able to find it on the channel? Thanks for your input.

I do get ash/crust build of over time. But the spots were it collects I knock loose with a pry bar over time. Usually by the end of the season I pull the burner head out and vacuum the chamber out for next heating season.

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 I've been getting alot of white ash I'm thinking I might not have enough draft after moving the furnace and adding a section of stove pipe to the flue.

I didn’t see your comment till tonight. Not certain I follow what your calling spuds? Or which pipe your talking about. Care to elaborate so I can answer questions better?

I just realized you ask a similar question. On the compressed air. The regulator just takes shop air down to lower pressure and then it passes though to the main injection nozzle that is part of the CKburners kit. They use a type that swirls the air and oil to create a siphon and atomization.

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 spraying tips or jets orfice

@@ricardocenteno375 ok got ya. It’s all in the kit or sold separately from CKburners.com. I’m not affiliated with them but did get my kit there and it works well

This is the first (older video) of my setup. Newer video shows things more clear. But to answer the question no. The original Beckett nozzle can work I think for some people with certain fuels and setups. I used the CK burners siphon nozzle which uses air pressure and oil together. It is designed to pull the oil to it, but I bring it in under light pressure from the original Beckett pump.

Ive been running a similar heater for 15 years, i store waste oil in several 55 galon oil drums, i let the oil separate over weeks/months by just sitting in the drums when the temp is above 50f or preferably during summer then i transfer the oil to a main drum by sucking oil from the surface (cleaner oil) and the sludge stays on the bottom. Then the heater sucks oil from that drum by also sucking from the surface with a floating nozzle. On the way to the heater i have a regular oil filter from an honda goldwing mc which i change once or twice each winter. I used to have alot of water mixed in the oil 10+ years ago, and i used a milk separator that took care of that problem but since then i only use oil that ive drained myself that is more or less free from water/coolant.

Sorry for late response. We are tying to change up things so I see these messages sooner and not get lost!! That said its possible. I can not due to the fact I’m not setup to run it or process it. You need a good way to heat, filter, and circulate it in order to get it to the burner clean. Once it reaches the burner head warm and clean, should run fine. I could see a possibly that you may have to start a small fire in the fire box to get things going. Not sure about that though.

I heated my home for 4 years on waste vegetable oil using a set up similar to this. In my experience, vegetable oil not only atomized better than motor oil, but it didn't need to be pre heated to be ignited by spark. Motor oil did not without pre heating. I designed mine with full adjustability and once fired up, could increase the air pressure to the nozzle to the point of creating a blue flame. Very clean burn, but it likely put the nitrogen oxide numbers through the roof. And, it smelled better.

Just so I understand. What are you calling a PID controller?? I should clarify to say what exactly is it you’re trying to control? Example if you got the ckburner kit like I have they essentially have a PID controller that is pre set and controlling the oil heating at nozzle in the thermal block. The same controller can be purchased to also control preheating oil and on and on.

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 i have a jld612 temp controler i have a ssr 25 an p100 probe trying to fimd wiring digram for heat elememt for nosel

i put this kit together same thing just cheaper i just domt have a wireimg diagram for set up

Ok I’ll try to find a diagram. I can say they (and you for that matter) only really need a relay to send amperage to the element. Your PID controller should be able to control that relay easy. I wouldn’t have a diagram for those controllers you have I would only be able to find one for the controller that came in the CK burner kit

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 that should be the same

Ckburners.com. Again im not affiliated with them. But its the kit im using and enjoy.

Also i did a more detailed video since many people asked questions. May help you out if interested. Should be easily found on the channel?

@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 thank you

So that will be very dependent on your needs. For me I heat a 1300 square foot shop that is an uninsulated block building. I don’t heat when I’m away so I come into a cold shop. The first several hours heater is running at max capacity. Then as temp rises in shop I pull heat back. So under these conditions I burn approx 1gal per hour. Once pulled back it drops to maybe 3/4 or less gallon per hour.