This is a VERY smart video. Details and descriptions and pics and demos. Everything but the dancing girls. LOL. Tip: For redesign of your ammo box, simply turn it around, put heating element below the latch, the outlet higher and just below the back hinge area. I want to build one of these for my garage!
Thanks. I didn’t see your comment till now. Seems they have been getting buried. I’m actually looking to get away from the ammo cans. At least because of the coating inside them. The oil and heat over time is bubbling the coating off and it’s finding it’s way into my screen. At some point I plan to use a stainless steel container with some more depth to allow the float and element to stay away from each other. Also I plan to make a baffle to separate out water and coolant better
Have you heard about the used oil furnace from 1950's that ran on water? Patent was issued to army service men in Texas for only adding water line to T fitting for used oil burner on used jeep engine oil, to get 50% increase in efficiency. That was not what was written in their application for Patent. SS coil tubing in brick insulated firepot of oil burner hooked to input common water line. Oil furnace started. Temperature gauge monitored for temp up to 1500 degrees F. Then valve opened so as superheated steam is allowed in T fitting with oil to tiny nozzle. Nice burn flame runs constant. Then oil line shut off. Furnace still runs. Shock wave from 90 lbs pressure to zero AMBIANT in fire-pot forms Hydrogen and Oxygen torch flame that also heats heat exchanger. Normally water molecules separate at about 3000-6000 degrees which is too much energy. The vibration shock wave allows for disassociation at lower temperature. Electric motor with dual shafts ran 2 oil pumps at 90lbs. If water shut off, and cooled down, then furnace has to be restarted on oil. A much smaller unit in crate was shown to a US senator in Washington building underground parking , as an open trunk display. This was somewhat similar to the propane operated camping stove with circular pores, vertical round fire brick insulated chimney, and interior SS tubing of water. When steam introduced to T fitting, the fuel used was shut down leaving burning circular torch flames. It probably used minerals free distilled water so as nozzle would not clog. (US Patent office not allow for over unity for public.- Free Energy is eliminated in issued US Patents. US- 1958, 2,863,499.
Thanks for the vid, I plan to do this same setup to my old Wasco heater. Heating oil prices have gotten out of hand lately and I get free oil from local transmission rebuilders.
The END CONE turns the combustion air in one direction and if you could picture of the inside of the nozzle it’s swirls spins the droplets in the opposite direction to improve vaporization and combustion.......... I don’t believe the end cone is Beckett, more likely CLEAN BURN? NICE JOB SIR! GREAT EXPLAINATION❤️🇺🇸. ❤️❤️BECKETT❤️🇺🇸 * tried doubling the bottom half of the gasket on the blast tube assuming that the furnace is level? you want the last tube to be tipped towards the combustion chamber ever so slightly then upon shut down you have a combustion chamber that’s 2000° that heat radiates back at the nozzle assembly and expands the oil that is now locked in the blast tube and it dribbles out the nozzle if the blast too busy obviously pitch to the chamber that little bit of oil will run back into the glowing heart chamber and you’ll be none the wiser! 1 of many many will require a silicone damn in the bottom of the tube❤️🇺🇸 🇺🇸THANK YOU🇺🇸
Great advise on the gasket spacing/tilt of unit. As for the end cone, correct it’s not Beckett. Came from the CK burners company. Which may be a part from clean burn? Not sure. All the rest of unit is from the original Beckett unit which came with original fuel oil furnace. Aside of course from the whole siphon heated oil head
I just noticed you do not have a barometric damper on your exhaust flue. Is there an advantage of not having one? It seemed to me that it would allow more of your room heat to escape with the exhaust?
So I don’t have one because in my case not needed. To your point about the heat loss, maybe? I don’t know usually the dampener is for excessive draft which is not a problem with my setup. I would actually think that you would pull more room air out on a day with winds allowing for high draft? Aka pulls room air into the stack at the dampener? Versus a “closed” system like I have. There is a small flame inspection door just about the burner with a pilot hole in it to view the flame. This would allow some more air in for combustion and thus draw some more room air in I imagine. But in reality it would be negligible. The building is pretty drafty anyway so in all reality, I don’t think it would actually matter in my case. Good eye though!.
Also, to slightly answer your question about his advantage to having one since the air and oil mixture is forced into the chamber under very rare circumstances. You can actually get a little blow back through the barometric dampener.
This is one of the best if not the best video detailing these custom systems. Thanks a lot for posting. Was curious about your setup for the preheater in the ammo box and more importantly what kind of float/how it is mounted.
Sure I’ll have to probably send some pictures or something of that nature. Not sure if I can do that in this messenger maybe I could message it to you in an email or something? Maybe shoot a private message with an email? Or whatever you think would work out, I can snap a few pictures inside the box. I may already have some it’s pretty straightforward. There’s just a water heater element in there and there is a brass float like what you would have an a toilet with a valve that I found at the local hardware store and the float basically ask directly on the valve it’s a needle and seat type
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately RU-vid removed the option to message people through here and posting email publically like this would be ill-advised we would get way too many spam emails. I understand how it works now, with a regular needle and seat type float. I had forgotten you used a gravity type system. Others I've seen used a float valve with an actual switch that would turn on a pump outside to pump oil into their "tank".
@@Sugarkryptonite the pump option was something I though about. But didn’t want the risk of pump sticking on. So gravity worked. I will say when real cold and the filter is older the flow reset in will be to low to keep up. Usually this is fixed if replacing the filter often. Even if it’s not that old. Just keeps flow moving
Great video , used it to help build mine ,, I did fix the oil running back into the tube and noticed after watching ur video it may also be ur problem also , the supply tank is to high to the level of the pump , when unit turns off it was siphoning out the tip of nozzle and running back in tube ,,, I lowered my tank below the oil connections on the pump and the oil went away , may be the fix for u to ! Can send u pics
Glad it could help you. My current tank is lower than the pump. I think in that video it wasn’t. What my issue mainly was is the angle the whole unit was at going into the burn chamber. The collar which holds it to the furnace needed a different offset to tilt the whole assembly into the chamber so to speak. This allowed the reming oil to fall back into the chamber and be burnt up. It wasn’t much but some would come back into the area outside of the burn chamber. Glad you got yours too work!
Excellent presentation!!! Well spoken and clearly explained! I have a few questions please: Can you tell me what the minimum air pressure and CFM needed for this to work? I'm looking at using an air pump instead of a compressor to reduce the electrical consumption And also do you find any "Crud" in the burn chamber after burning over a 100 gallons of oil? Thank you sir
I’d say 5-10 psi min. I run that or up to maybe 20psi max really. As for CFM not certain on that. The nozzle “Should” only allow a set CFM at the pressure ranges stated. The CFM in my estimation should be pretty linear and easy to find based on the nozzle rated GPH. I’m not sure if CK Burners posts that info?? Maybe ask them? Good luck. Oh, yes I get some build up over time. I clean chamber each season.
once a week , 50 weeks a year , i pick up 15 to 20 gallons (5 gallon buckets) from a one man service station on the road between my house and my shop . i don't take oil from any other source . 750 to 1000 gallons a year , never any antifreeze , water , trash , etc . i recommend developing such a source to anyone using wmo .
Yep you are correct. I do have some of those connections. I certainly get enough of my own oil from services. But there are people who I trust to give clean oil on a semi regular basis. I’d love to connect with another shop. But it’s hard sometimes to get in. One shop I had before gave me oil. But then they started to burn there oil
Sure. Basically any restriction ahead of the nozzle will pull flame back at what ever rate you desire. Down to almost burning out. Of course to be clear this ONLY works best IF you have the oil under pressure coming up to the nozzle. The control is better and will actually allow you to over-fire the 1 gallon per hour setting if you wish. Of course do that safely!!! The siphon type nozzle rating are based on “pulling” oil to the nozzle. If pressurized you can over or under shoot that number.
One other thing to clear up. If you are using siphon type nozzle and still actually “pulling” oil to the head (siphoning) then a restriction valve will work. But it’s much harder to adjust because the siphon doesn’t have much “vacuum or pull” a restriction will make it hard to keep oil flowing especially if it’s cold. Good luck
my first nozzle I ran 1.0 around 20 psi it was too much of a flame thought I would put a hole in my boiler, put a large stainless plate to protect it. went to a .05 at 8 to 12 psi too low of a flame. I use a small used dental air pump kick in when the system runs. think it too low of a nozzle too much excess waste. might go with .075 and run an air compressor still use the older cd burner adapter on my beckett.
So I’m not 100% in terms of actually measuring it. What I do know is the nozzle is rated for .75 gal per hour. But this is at the set air pressure the kit recommends and with no pump assist (aka ability or regulate the flame) like what I have. So in my case I can technically really go from about .5 to 1.5 gal per hour depending on what I wish to do. I’d say the average usage is close to 1gal a hr based on how often I added a gallon of oil in the early years before I got the outside tanks hooked up and had automatic flow.
What do you have for a fitting and line coming off the back side of the oil pump? Mine has a 3/16 flare fitting and if I remove it there's some spring inside the pump.. Did you remove all this and just add a larger fitting on the pump? I feel like mine is starving for oil the flame isn't anywhere near as aggressive as yours is!
I kept the standard fitting I think 1/4 inch? No I have to check. But no spring inside. I know the pump also has a spring loaded pressure regulator which looks like a hex cap with a screw inside to adjust pressure?? Wonder if something is mixed up? Not sure I’ll take closer looks when I get over to shop
As side note in the video from about 5-6mins in you can pretty clearly see my pump side outlet. I is a 3/8 galvanized street elbow going to flare copper tube. Hope this helps. Where you place the ball valve will make a big difference on the flame also. Meaning if it’s before your nozzle but after the return t then all your pressure will just go back to the tank instead of to your valve you need to be able to restrict so that the pressure is forced into the nozzle
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 ordering some parts and going to try redoing my line while pulling out and cleaning the entire burner. not sure if something is suddenly causing an oil feed issue or what is going on, burner will run fine but have small flame, then randomly its got a real nice flame, and then it'll be back to small flame again without me touching anything at all on it! crazy! I'll let you know what my findings are and comment back so others can be informed as well. Appreciate videos like yours that actually show everything! Very helpful!!
@@nicholassmith2353 ok good to hear. Look close at the screen at your pump. It’s right inside the cover on side of pump. It’s a fine screen and can easily get clogged or a film build up and restrict flow. Also if there is ANY coolant intrusion into the oil your burning it will affect flame in same way. It doesn’t take much and can actually slightly “suspend” in the oil if churned around and take time to settle out. Good luck my Freind!!
I tried to copy your burner and how your still using the original oil pump on the unit with the tee to be able to control flame. What psi are you running off the pump tho? And are you still using the siphon nozzle that comes with the kit? I can get mine to light but will not maintain a flame without holding a torch to it.I have played with the air pressure from 3 psi till almost 20 and gating the oil with the tee and get very little success. Any help would be much appreciated.
If you heat the oil it will work off 20 to 30 PSI. No heat more air.Make sure your oil is filtered from any sludge. I've seen the nozzles plugged up but can be cleaned out if needed. Get a propane tourch flame going on the back of the nozzle if your not using a constant ignitor
It the spark plug/igniter supposed to be on all the time or just till it establishes a flame, I have tried so many diff things and I cannot maintain a flame, it went back up on the shelf again this year. I don’t understand what I’m doing wrong
So I vary the pressure dependent on the flame I with to achieve. It will vary from a low 7ish pounds to maybe 20-30 psi. It really depends on how much heat I need. Since I can vary the oil flow and air it gives a great flame adjustment. It also changes as the unit warms up. Usually requires less of both once the whole thing is hot
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 I can't go much over 3 psi on mine. I'm usually running around 2 psi. I have the mass air band completely closed and the air shutter I run at about 4 but I did restrict some of the air holes on the air shutter. I have been playing around with it to try and run with a higher psi but haven't had any luck.
@@dobber1988 are you running the setup as a siphon type or pressure from the pump to nozzle? This makes a big difference. I assume flame goes out above 3psi?
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 I'm using the oil pump on the Beckett burner to circulate the oil back into the amo can and siphoning off of a T using a valve to regulate how much oil it siphons in. Pretty much like your setup. Yep flame goes out over 3 psi
I commented on latter video about diagrams / plans for this but I see tin his video you mention the ckburners.com and more detailed explanation, Thank you.
Yeah I don’t want to undercut them and post the information on specific building specs. Since I did follow it for my build (and added some of my own touches which are explained in video). There are other kits and of course you could build it all yourself. I liked the way their kit was put together. Good luck!
Yes it can overwhelm the fire box and smoke. If you go too heavy on the fuel. Can also blow out if too heavy with the air pressure. Once you find the setting you’re looking for it will stay put and run solid. No smoke at all
The video itself was an update. Meaning I had posted an earlier one that was not real in-depth. I wanted to explain more/better the setup. I use a standard larger automotive filter before the oil comes into ammo can for heating. Then the simple screen the becket pump already has just before the nozzle. I am using the 1GPH office that I can adjust pressure with to set the flame as I need
I’ll have to check. You can easily use a chem tech 7210 filter from TSC OR RURAL KING they stock them in the fuel filter area. I used those. But I the engine filter was just a bit bigger and slightly cheaper. But it’s harder to find. Can’t remember the number. But the chem tech is a great easy to get filter
@@billsmith1770 you would be correct I mistyped it would seem. Cim-tek 720-10 is the filter I use. Works well and readily available. There are a couple automotive filters that cross reference to that same housing and work for couple $$ cheaper. When I get a chance I’ll stock up on them. But the are more rare it seems. The 72010 and it’s sister filters 72059, 72002, all work as well. They are just targeting different micron ratings or fuel type. One has a drain which is a nice feature to have.
I gravity feed it directly from the large (275gal) outside tanks that sit on racking outside about the ammo can. It works well but in the extreme cold the oil flow is very low. Typically just fine unless the inside filter is getting toward the end of its life (clogged) then the flow is too slow to keep up with demand of the furnace. So replacing the filter early will fix that. Id suggest for those who can’t get the oil above the ammo can or wish to pump it (which would extend the interval of filer changes) to maybe run a rotary style pump. Or even an oil diesel fuel pump. I had a liquid propane pump I acquired from an auction that would work. But the gravity was simpler and did the trick.
In an earlier video if memory serves I show the outside tanks and the “Setup”. It’s nothing fancy but allows me to switch from tank to tank as needed and has a trap at the bottom to allow water and heavy sediment to settle there and be drained easy. It’s not fool proof as some coolant has made it past that trap but in general if it does I can drain that at the ammo can and be good.
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 do you ever have the issue where you fire up the burner, and works great, then spits and spudders, then flame goes out, but then kicks back in, and does all over again, finally after so many times it kicks safety out, wait 45 sec and fire back up, runs good for few min, then starts having issue all over again?
With the original setup in that video the simple answer would be no. While on some occasions if coolant found its way into the loop it was hard to keep going until the coolant passed. I had the safety bypassed because I was getting frequent changes in the oil quality (contaminants) and the flame would go low tripping the safety. Sine I only ran unit while I was present this wasn’t really an issue. Since the video I have revised the unit. Bigger ammo can to allow the heating element to never dry fire, and the pickup is high in the can to keep from catching coolant or most of those issues. I also upgraded the burner assembly with a new Beckett that I acquired cheap. It has a newer control box and a fuel solenoid. The flame sensor currently is bypassed because Im still in test phases. But once I iron things out this one will be fully automatic and run off a thermostat. All this to say that I am actually currently experiencing the same problem you have, one I didn’t have previously. This unit has two outlets form the pump. One direct to nozzle (which the fuel solenoid can delay or shut down) and a constant bypass. Originally I felt this would be a great option as when the unit first fires it will flow the bypass only for a bout 5 seconds allowing warm oil to move through the loop and then fires the nozzle. However since i have had some issues getting flow correct it will shut down too soon. With sensor bypassed I can finally get it to fire but the flame will do what you describe and burn out. I adjust flow valve and get it back only to burn out again. What I think is going on is the oil coming from the smaller outlet of the pump (Nozzle pressure port) is not able to flow what unit can burn and with the ball valve in that loop the line is starving for oil then catches up and flame works till it drains it off again. Im currently reconfiguring the bypass loop which is much larger to act as a port for the nozzle to pull oil from while the pump is running. I have it all plumbed up and was ready to fire but the nozzle was leaking oil for some reason. So I need pull the unit out and find the source of issues. I’ll try to and remember to let you know what i find and if it works. This may solve your issues too?? Sorry for long winded response. But I like to be thorough
Are you getting to much or too little flame? In my personal opinion these systems work better with pressure behind the nozzle on oil feed side instead of siphon only from the “Air pressure” coming in.
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 I think the oil is not atomizing enough due to only being able to run less than 3 psi. Sometimes it works great but that it starts too really flame up like it's getting too much oil. I was thinking of trying a bigger nozzle to see if I can increase my psi on the air . I have a valve like you do to reduce the amount of oil being siphoned in.
@@dobber1988 hmm may work not certain. I can say that having the oil pressurized instead of siphon really helps adjustments. But you may get what your looking for
Why wouldn't you just heat the oil, filter it, heat it again as it is being fed into the original pressure pump and go from there? Why go through all this trouble?
It actually not much more work. But the stock pump and nozzle are not capable of lighting off the waste oil. Since fuel oil is thin and flammable at much lower flash points, it’s easy to inject and light. Waste oil has a higher viscosity and higher flash point. Thus you need the added heat, atomization from the larger nozzle head, and added oxygen from the compressed air. All together this makes the east oil burn hot and completely. Stock unit even with hot incoming oil won’t even atomize (turn to a mist) at the tip. It just shoots out in stream. I tried this first and could not get a fire to stick. Now it did work ok in the first version where I converted a wood burner and injected a small amount of oil with stock pump. But the wood fire was what actually burned the oil. Essentially the wood fire was assisted by shooting oil into it.
@@ballengerfarmhomestead2772 Thanks for the quick reply! What is the air pressure at your regulator that's needed for a constant flame? I'm trying to eliminate the use of an air compressor if possible. What about cutting the waste oil with either old gasoline or new gasoline to thin it out as well as heating it?
@@jrperrotta Air pressure on my setup is relatively low. Approx 10-15lbs. Possible to cut oil but Be careful with heating it if you have fuel mixed. Especially gasoline. As you can get vapors coming off and potential ignition. Still not sure if it would work with a stock pump??
@@jrperrotta From what I can tell yes if it stays warm and filtered. The issue is with some oils they get a lot of fats and other suspended materials in it an that tends to make it solidify. Of course this doesn’t happen with good oil practices so depending on where you get it could work great. I have a guy who gives me his old fry oil and I just dump it into my oil containers ahead of filters. Works great
I'm not sure if this is your latest upgraded burner but after reading a few of your replies I thought I would share this with you. I copied the design from this RU-vidr ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Mz1VmGyEAXI.html We are not using air compressor to atomize the oil but a simpler filtering system and keeping the original Beckett burner method. Ignitor, pressurized oil pump (mine is factory set to 140 PSI) and a smaller nozzle size from a 75 70 to a 65 60, since Waste oil burns hotter than diesel. its been working flawlessly The only trouble is you need a dual fuel source. Diesel to start it after 2 minutes of that fuel then switch to Waste. It works great except it cannot be controlled with a thermostat to work on Waste only. So if you don't mind having the burner running full heat and then before shutting down switch back to diesel this system works very well. I've ordered some extreme tiny 110V heaters that will follow the fuel line from the heated Ammo tank to a180 Celsius nozzle heater. I had an 80 C nozzle heater before it didn't work to ignite waste oil. Maybe with the extreme heaters it will. What do you think?
His setup looks simple enough and I’m sure works. I did a pretty similar deal years back. I chose to do with the current setup (and even a few extra things since) because it can run basically any out and no special prime or shut down. I simply turn the system on, allow ammo can to preheat for about 5mins. The nozzle heats up at same time. Then I simply hit the start button and it fires no matter the temperature outside. The air really helps to get a much better flame and has the potential to really throw some heat it back it down. To address if your heaters will do the trick I’m not sure. Getting the oil as hot as possible before the chamber is always good. Where the big trouble comes in is getting it to atomize at the nozzle so it can fire. This is the critical point. If it doesn’t you get a lazy fire and oil build up or no fire at all. I think I would place most of my energy to getting the oil as hot as possible as close to the nozzle as you can. Hope they helps??
