DJI MINI 3 PRO - 13 Cinematic Drone Moves Behind The Scenes 

@@demaksianturi9224 uh-huh.

Which model is best ? ❤️

His mate drives

i like your video, its so inspiration 👍👍👍 always be my friend🙏

Here’s the LUTs I use: www.creatorfilmschool.com/pages/luts

@@JevenDovey do you ever use 4k 30 on the mini pro 3? I’ve been playing around with 4k30 and ND64

I also have this question 🤔

No

No

I have this DJI mic too, I normaly doing this way: 1st thing do not change the gain setting in neither RX or TX, make sure they all at +0db, this will preserve the best dynamic range. Then check the low cut option if is suitable for certain enviroment. 2nd when you line the RX into your camera, keep shouting loud and make sure the camera volume input signal floating at 70%(leave some headroom for hugh unexpected sound). 3rd normally talking voice needs a final post production, we don't need huge dynamic but clean, loud and constant voice, so in your NLS you can first load a noise reduction plugin for the audio track(this step is optional depend the recording enviroment), then add a compressor(which can lower the high volume down), select a preset of voice, then keep adding gain in that compressor(which can higher the low volume up), until the audio meter in your track or master track floating around yellow zone, you now have a loud and clear voice. 4th the final part, is the limiter. Even you compressed your voice very well, occasionally there will be one or two sudden sounds jump out and pop the meter(that is clipping, which means audio meter beyonds 0db output or just hits the red zone), then your audio get ruined. For safety, we always put a limiter in master audio track to prevent this, limiter is the killer version of compressor, it just kill all the sounds above threshold. If you're mixing several tracks, you need to lower all tracks down and try to balance them, then add a limiter in the master track as a final step, choose and listen between presets, or, just simply lower the threshold to -1db. Now your mix is good and ready to release. ------ Also, even DJI mic has very great frequency response curve, and has no muddy low end or harsh 5Khz sibilance issues, you can still try to use EQ plugin to tweak you voice to another level.

@@smpiggystudio thanks for the detail instruction. One question I have is that i heard you want to put your camera volume to the lowest so you dont use the the pre amp of the camera and just use the mic preamp. Is that the correct way to adjust the volume?

@@MichaelYoungKim If the mic preamp means TX gain, then yes. There are three parts of signal flow. 1st, TX Gain. This part is the first important part which you record your voice healthy and no clipping. If clipping, reduce TX gain in RX to negative until no clipping. 2nd, RX Gain. This part is to set RX output volume. Default is 0db, no reduce or boost, I recommand do not change it. 3rd, Camera input. This part will determine how much signal the RX output is transmit into camera input, what you need to do, is adjust the camera input, to mimic the RX metering. For exsample, talking to the TX, the RX metering is bouncing at 60%, then I adjust the camera input gain to certain db, make sure the camera metering also bouncing at 60%(or a bit less). Now your RX and camera are paired. So in future, you only need to adjust the 1st part which is TX gain(or like you said preamp), to suit the situation. The rest signal flow is paired and healthy, no need to change the RX and camera input anymore. (I forget how much gain set A7S3 is, but when RX gain is default 0, to ZV1, camera input gain set is at 11, to A7m3 is at 4) TX gain, is always the important part to deal with.

@@smpiggystudio ahh ok so u dont always put the camera volume to the lowest (ex 1). So set TX volume before clipping, RX stays 0 db, and set the camera volume to be same as the TX gauge. Thank you very much!!!

@@MichaelYoungKim Exactly, hope it could help!

same here :) I decided for mini 3 - as I have strong feeling Air 3 would follow shortly... but thats just mine feeling

Yeah you can tell the footage doesn't look great. He should be shooting in 24p HQ mode with the shutter speed using that rule (I think its double your frame rate?), so 50. Gives that super sharp look with great dynamic range and smooth movement with some motion blur. Not sure why so many creators are missing these basics and pushing out blown out footage that's missing some of the key advantages of this little drone. 24p HQ mode with log produces footage that looks like its from a professional drone. Shouldn't need to rely on slowing down 60p footage for smoothness. Some good movement tips overall, but definitely think focusing on maximizing DR is key as it makes the footage look so much better.

Problem was that I was using beta firmware when I shot this so HQ mode wasn't available yet and there was no ND filters available... However now with the newest update I'd shoot only some shots in 60 and the rest with HQ. Also ND would be super helpful

@@JevenDovey Ah ok, that makes sense. Guess thats the reason there's such a disparity with some footage right now. Maybe a comparison of all the modes in the future would be cool, just to illustrate how frame rate and video modes really impact these kinds of drones. I think people struggle with what all the settings really mean for the look of video as it’s more nuanced compared to photography.

not sure

From what I've seen in other videos you cant install other 3rd party apps as there's no way to get back to the "desktop" for want of a better term. That might all change when people get release firmware, but I wouldn't be surprised if it's done like that by DJI to justify the price difference between this controller and the smart controller.

yes