DLE-20 RC Plane Gas Engine, Learning Series, No. 4: Test Run, Oil and Gas mixture, factory settings 

Thank you!

Lol, thanks!

Ya, The interference issue is one that I worry about. Ill have to be careful when the time comes to mount it. And Ill have to check into the glow plug idea. If that works then by all means do away with the electronic ignition.. Ill have to check that.

Thank you, as always Marco. 😊

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Thanks! Im starting a new build also to use this engine. Im learning about them also.

It would also be great to see a detailed walk through on how to mount gas engines to firewall and good plumbing tips:)

Thanks. Ill be doing a kit build soon and the engine mounting will be one of the steps. But Ill consider it for maybe a separate vid. It is a little different than a glow setup for sure

Thanks. And very nice about your new engine and plane. Thats a classic, looks like the older Great Plane Big Stick 60. I haven’t heard of Value Hobby, Ill check it out.

Thanks . And good luck with all your engines!

Thank you, another person recommended Redline also. Ill be checking that out.

Thanks! Im learning also.

Thanks! Ya Im not sure always on the production side of things, sometimes I think I need music but honestly I do try to minimize to mostly intro and exit, then when I have stretches of footage that are no talk or time lapse. Trying to strike a balance. Thank you for your suggestion, Ill certainly consider it. I never know exactly what everyone prefers.

Hello, thanks for the suggestion. I’m going to look into that oil.

redline oil is a racing motorbike oil...not designed for use in aircraft engines...reason is that redline oil is designed for engines that get HOT, it will burn off any residue cleanly...go put it in an engine that doesnt get as hot, it turns to soft carbon and will carbon up the engine.....i have personally used coolpower engine oil for around 30 odd years now....its the only oil i run in all my glow and petrol(gas) aircraft engines.....i run it at 40:1 in my DLE 40 twin and have done so for well over 50 flights without any issues...i also use the same fuel in my 2 stroke lawnmower & brushcutter......just sharing my experience

Thanks for the info, Ill look into that oil as well. Awesome

Thanks, I flip it around when using a hub, it would have been helpful here as well. Thanks again

Thanks Greg, yes I need to get some filters in the can and tank and inline, I need to look into that. Thanks! And ya, Im wondering what plane to put this on. Been thinking.

Interesting, thanks Ill look into this.

if you clamped the crankcase in a vice perhaps, but have never heard or seen this happen in all my years of r/c aircraft modelling....bent rods are more likely from a flooded engine, or from a carbon buildup on the piston crown....if you watch the video, the engine moves around in the engine mount anyways

Thanks for the tip, Ill check it out.

Good idea.

Thanks for the tip. I’ll look into that, sounds good.

I believe I tightened everything up as needed, but Ill take a look

Ill have to go back over my instructions, maybe I missed that.

Hi, so I think you are talking about the screw that is used to adjust the throttle for proper idle when these carbs are used on other equipment. You basically don’t use it because it designed to hold the throttle open slightly for the idle, when these carbs are mounted on things like weed wackers, lawn mowers, chain saws, etc. On other equipment like this, the throttle return spring closes the throttle, and this screw is used to keep it open slightly for idle, otherwise the engine would quit. But for rc, since we set the idle using our servo for adjusting, we don’t need this screw. So the instructions say to disconnect the spring on the throttle arm, which frees the throttle to move freely and to be controlled by the servo. As for this screw, you would open it enough so that it doesn’t interfere with the throttle adjustment at idle. I hope that makes sense.

yes that makes sense. and what would the procedure be if you had a needle screw as well? thank you.@@JamesRCPlaneTech

Well, on this DLE, there is the high and low speed screws which are the same as the high and low speed needles on a glow engine. On this engine, the low speed is set 1.5 turns open from the closed position, and the high speed is set 1.5 to 2 turns open from the closed position. These are just the factory settings. once the engine is broken in, they can be fine tuned. If yours is a DLE engine, you should be able to obtain the manual online which goes over adjusting them. I go over it as well in my video on this engine. But if yours is not a DLE, I also recommend seeing if you can find the manual online. Just do a search. I hope this helps

I didn’t put a filter in for the test run, just forgot, probably would have been a good idea to do so. Thanks for pointing that out. Always best to keep the fuel clean as possible!

It is going to be put on the Balsa USA Stingray I a currently building.

perfect match.@@JamesRCPlaneTech

Hello. I have been pondering that. I have a few ideas, probably will have something to share in the upcoming weeks. Thanks!

In the gas can, I didn’t have a filter

@@JamesRCPlaneTech Hello James. These are great video's that you are making for those that are new to what us gas engine owners call "gassers". I do have many years of experience with gas engines, and I am still learning more too. There are some things that I think you should change asap. 1. use a fuel clunk in the gas can and like others were saying, to use a filter in the can also. 2. on most aircraft that run on gas engines, the top of the motor is usually on the bottom (pointing toward the ground). You would have to change up the linkage for the throttle and choke also. 3. The motor mount you are using looked like it was kind of hindering the choke to be able to close it all the way. I recommend a motor mount that are called stand offs. They are much better with the rear mount carb's, even for running on a test stand and like @sendit2873 said, you should run the engine on a plane rather than a stand, but doing the test stand no more than a couple times should be ok. 4. The APC propeller you are using is kind of, if not very dangerous, since they are so sharp on the side that you would flip the prop by hand, which is what I always have done, because when you get up higher in the CC's of engines, i.e. a 50cc on up may not work with all electric starters like you have. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a wood prop just to start out for now, then if you want to, they are more expensive, but carbon fiber props are also very good. The wood props that I use myself, and what I recommend are Xoar propellers. They also come in different colors and some have painted tips for safety. There are many good carbon fiber props out there, like Falcon, Mejlik and some others I cannot remember. I prefer the Mejlik, I've heard they are all about the same quality. I recommend going to "DA" short for desertaircraft.com engine's props, oil etc... There are other hobby shop's that have the stuff you need, but I always end up back at DA. If there is anything else that I see that I could help you with, please don't hesitate to ask. I will try to answer it, but if I can't, I do know others that would.

You can use a typical rechargeable battery that you would use for your servos or receiver, and the voltage can range such as a 4.8 volt or 6 volt battery. Typically you would have a separate battery dedicated to the engine and another dedicated to the receiver and servos. I use a Ni-MH battery from batteriesamerica.com they make lots of batteries that are compatible with different systems.

You can use any basic rechargeable battery, 4.8 to 6 volts. Check the manual for more info.

Thanks for the tip, I hear that these engines run rougher than the glow engines.

Wow! Ya, its getting up there. Here it’s probably around 35 after taxes. And then its not always on the shelf. Thats why Im keeping my glows 40 class and smaller. With a little 25 you can get a lot of flying on a gallon.

@rcplanetech9044 yea can't say the same. I have mostly 1.60s average summer of flying I burn 10 gallon of fuel

Ya, that’s expensive for sure. I know some people mix their own glow fuel. I looked into that once, but finding the individual components wasn’t that easy. But that could be an option if the costs are lower.

That is the oil that you should use "after" breaking in the engine. The engines that I've had where the manual mentions to use Lawn Boy ashless oil for break in, another brand that is good for breaking in an engine is Stihl small engine oil. Then you can go to Redline, Klotz or even Amsoil after the engine is broke in.

@rcflyernc2001 run in with the oil you intend to use long-term. Oh and stilh synthetic is very good also.