Well done man that came so clean. My only gripe was you went all out clean and tucked wire wise till you got to the sled. Why not leave those tabs on the contacts and solder the wires to the back side of the sled then just dab some liquid tape over them and epoxy onto the sled and press it in place. Imo its perfect till you see the wires soldered to the front side of the sled. I learned alot from this video thanks. I was given a bronze rx200 with a DNA 250 in it I wanna use the board and put it in a nice box.
Can you plz make a video about all the tools you would need to make a box mod and how you find best to used them plz im really interested on knowing what exatly to get in order to make my own box mod thank you.
kinda would like to know where to get the DNA 250 chip, and a diagram to make a 250 Watt mod. either 2 or 3 18650s. I got more than enough batteries. I'm sick of buying vv/vws at shops and they don't last. and is there any means to water proof the board? that is the main reason I only make unregulated mods. they are bullet proof. I like vv/vw mods, and find they can be better in some aspects, but I haven't found one that was affordable and built well. some things you just have to do yourself. I am building an unregulated box now, but I'll be seeing what kind of clearance the box has for a chip later as I build. if I like the brand, I'll get a few. my only complication will be making the window for the LCD. but if you can put a part list and diagram together in PDF that would be great.
I can't find this enclosure. I want to order the dna250 2x18650 kit to build one but the only enclosures in the options is the 2XL and XLT i think. Great videos man 👌
Could I do this same build if I use a bigger enclosure and a 26650 battery sled? I’m trying to make this build for a 42mm RDA. And I would like to run 26650s.
Good stuff bro...one thing is locktite is formulated to only harden when deprived of air so ya don't need to rush when its first applied...test what I said&see for yourself- it'll save ya some misery down the road :)
Thanks for the tip! I actually stopped using it, I don't think it's conductive and some say it adds resistance to the -510, but even if that's not the case, last time I had to repair a mod I had an impossible time removing the nut because of the locktite.
Yea idk which type ya were using,, the full strength red stuff is crazy strong&very hard to break loose....worst case scenario for getting things apart is just heat it with something to compromise it(which is tough in that space)...the amount it effects resistance/conductance is probably negligible for most people-those it'd bother use 2piece hybrid mechs Løl,,,I know I'd rather be assured it doesn't ever come loose on me with the locktite on!
The DNA 200/250/250c requires at least 2 batteries in series. Do a search for "fullymax 3s 900mAh" if you want to find a replacement lipo, that's the one that was used in the vaporshark.
Analog Box Mods Thanks for the reply. Im from argentina so its nearly imposible to get it. I found a similar one. Could it work? BATERIA LIPO 3S 11.1V 850 MAH 30/60C (CHNL BRAND) Capacidad: 850mAh Voltaje: 11.1V / 3-Cell / 3S1P Tasa de Descarga: 30c Continuo / 60c Picos Tasa de Carga: 5c Max Tamaño: 25X31X58mm Peso: 68 g Conector de salida: Jst Conector de Balanceo: JST/XH
I have a question for you Analog Box Mods? Didnt evolv recommend not jumping the TAP's wiring to the B+/B- but recommend same distance wiring? Why did you jump them? Just wondering, not trolling or anything.
I haven't heard of this recommendation from evolv... I do it to make the wiring cleaner by having less wires all over the place. Some commercial mods (either Rouleaux or Therion, I forget), do this too.
If i dont care about the balance charger do i have to fuse the neg/positive pin of the charger to the neg/positive of the battery on the board ? Would it change the function of the board when it come to battery safety ?
Yes you still need to, not for a battery safety issue but if the board doesn't detect what it expects on those charging pins it won't fire, it will think something is wrong with the batteries and you'll get a "check battery" error. You could go into escribe and configure the board to run on a PSU, like we do for the passthroughs, then it won't care about those charging pins but it also won't monitor the batteries, so it won't know when they are drained and risk over discharging them... I guess that is a battery safety issue.
2 questions. Did u only use 16 and 24 gauge wire or did u use 14 gauge for the 510. And what kind of flux did u use. Oh and is flux core solder ok or should I also use flux.
Hey Ethan, I used 16AWG for the 510, 18AWG for the BATs and 24AWG for the balanced charging pins. I use a rosin core solder but I still use a "no clean" rosin flux when tinning.
I'd say almost any iron would be powerful enough for electronics like this, I'm not sure about power ratings... I started with a cheapo $20 one with no temp control, just straight plug into the wall, it was plenty powerful. Make sure your tip is clean (that's good advice for life in general :P), use the flux and tin everything then you should have a much easier time. Check the video list on my channel, I have an older "soldering tips and tricks" vid which may help.
It will work but silicone insulated wire is best, it's easier to work with because it's super flexible and it can handle more heat... because of that you can usually go up a gauge when using silicone wire, like if something calls for 16AWG pvc insulated wire you can use 18AWG silicone insulated wire instead. The datasheets for the DNA boards list different recommended gauges for silicone vs pvc insulated wire, always a gauge higher if you are using silicone.
I just updated the video description with a link to the parts kit if you want to build your own. If you want a completed one, contact us via the website and we can discuss, analogboxmods.ca/index.php?route=information/contact
Hi Dan, awesome video mate. Learnt heaps from watching your videos. This mod you built what's the max wattage it'll run as I'm not chasing anything over 180 watts as my tanks and coil builds aren't huge, I prefer to enjoy flavour from you builds on my RDTA set-up decks.
Analog Box Mods, thanks mate. Looking forward to watching more of your videos and learn more. I do ham and cb radio mods on my own equipment, also repairs on some. Doing electronics is s hobby only, I love building basic kits, also have repaired my kids remote control cars, quad-copters and helicopters. Mainly fixing very poor solder joints. Looking at placing an order for one of your kits to build in future, it'll give me something to do on my holidays.
This particular kit currently starts at $120CAD/$95USD, but yeah a pre-made one with the battery can easily go for over $200... it's a lot of precise, time consuming work putting one together. Only the new DNA250c board can get over 400W because it supports 4s batteries. I don't know who needs that much power :P I certainly don't, but the moment you go dual (or multiple) coils the power requirements increase a lot and there is a new trend of using higher resistance coils which also requires more power... I'm guessing those are the 2 main reasons.
I think it would be hard to get twice as much unless there is something special, like a stab wood enclosure or some cool laser engraving/etching on the enclosure.
I can assemble/build any of the kits on the website for a small build fee, but I can't ship completed mods overseas... contact me via the website if you want to discuss a commission.
