Do Cold Air Intakes Actually Work??? 

I’m right there with your. Just picked up an 02 7.3 and planing on a 4” MBRP exhaust and S&B cold air intake to help with towing our RV in the mountains of Montana and Wyoming. Safe travels!

What kind of remote start you have?

@@pwrstrkrf250 It says Avital on the remote fob. I think it's the Avital 5305L 2-Way LCD Remote Start with Security. Under $100 on Amazon

@@charliemich8037 thanks brother

I have been looking into getting one pretty heavily. It would definitely be nice to have. My biggest fear is the installer leaving a rats nest of wires under the dash.

@@LivingOnWheels your wiring looks really clean. It's amazing what these youngsters can do these days

My truck will struggle with a stock filter at 6psi. I am good up to 36 psi with my cold air. Towing is a diffrent beast with it. Every day I have 6,000 lbs behind it. MUCH Less smoke. Much more power. You are 100%right

What kind of noticeable difference did it make? The only value I can see in it is if it saved you enough gas (the proof it was actually effecting something positively) or ran cooler when towing, decreasing wear and tear on the engine. Thanks!

@@Bwanar1 my boost pressure went from 12 to 16psi and you could feel a noticeable difference in acceleration. Later in the spring I upgraded my up pipes to SS bellowed, new boots & clamps, AIH delete, EBP delete with new pedestal, new stage 1 turbo, new 4” turbo back SS exhaust, new braided fuel lines, new HPOP lines, and new Mishimoto transmission cooler. After all this I have no oil leaks, it runs significantly cooler, my boost is around 22-24psi, and I get between 16-20mpg.

I just ordered the banks intake for my 01 F350 work truck, excited to see if I get any seat of the pants difference.

AFE stage 2 sealed intake (momentum HD kit) is also a great option in my mind. I use it around our little 7 acre farm and love it.

Much appreciated! Glad you found the video useful!

Thank you for watching them.

Thats just too damn hot haha

@@LivingOnWheels Tell me about it... I live north of ABQ, NM and a hot day is barely 95 :) and with only 7 inches of rain a yr. we have 340+ days of sun shine... Rarely seen in Portland, Or. :) But really love Portland! And Jubitz Truckstop and the Ponderosa next door, best steaks on the Left Coast!

I know the feeling haha

Same!

Glad you found it helpful!

I ran into the same issue with the last 6637 I installed. It seems that the rubber flange isn’t flat enough to keep the hose clamp on. No doubt S&B makes a good product though!

I have a 2000 F350 with the s&b filter. Although it does place the stupid dirty filter check bulb thingy (super technical term) I can still get my power steering dipstick out with a little wiggling.

Channel is nothing without the subscribers!

With just the short time I've been running it I am pretty darn happy with it. Like I said, I think it is a little overpriced for the product you get but is still the best value on the market.

Wait so is the Ford extreme duty not a good option? Cause I was thinking of going with that one

That would definitely be interesting to see!

Correct. I have all those. I would also add that fuel pressure is extremely handy.

I have a trans temp gauge and a EGT gauge

Thanks for giving your time to watch it.

@@LivingOnWheels Hey are you Kody's brother ?

If I had money just laying around I would in a heartbeat but I don’t. RU-vid sure as hell doesn’t pay enough to just buy another truck whenever I feel like it. Got one you want to donate to the channel?

Thanks! Almost there! 👌🏻

Honestly I did not either and I said so on camera haha. Had to eat my own words on this one. S&B made a much bigger difference than I expected.

@@LivingOnWheels enjoyed your video... I have a 97 7.3 obs , just got rid of the factory intake cold air went to the Donaldson 6637 open element... Do they make a set up for my truck and does the filter element come with the kit or can o use my 6637 ?? Thanks

Yeah, so did I unfortunately that setup was gone a long time ago

@@LivingOnWheels that's what I figured. Happened before you got to be a RU-vid star :)

Im pretty darn happy with mine as well

Magic of editing haha. It honestly wasn't a bad install.

Ok I published it. I apologize for the horrible production value. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ejO98fQaujA.html

I appreciate the video (quality really wasnt bad haha) I'll have to take a closer look at mine. For some reason I thought I saw that it seemed like it had a pretty strait shot into the intake but I could be wrong

studio.ru-vid.comJOxkqaJuqsI/edit

6 speed swap is no minor job. Nice job! I did do the glow plug relay myself it was just done before I started this youtube channel.

That's the heavy duty relay after putting it in my 350 work truck I wish I had done it in my 250 as well but I just put a stock Dormen in the 250 love the video's keep up the good work

Yes I am in a wheelchair. I use hand controls for both fuel and brake

I have actuall thought about doing something just like that. Creating some sort of decorative cover for the wiring. Still want to clean and tame it up a little but I will probably make a cover for it as well.

I have seen it. I’m sure it might help some.

Thank you great video I also have a 2000 7.3 aloha .

Thank you!

I think they main argument for "cold air intakes" is not to lower EGTS but it is to get cooler air going into the engine. The cooler the air, the more air you can compress into each compression cycle, the more air in each compression cycle the more effective and powerful combustion you get. Cooler air leads to more efficiency and more power for the same amount of fuel. Same reason drag racers put ice packs on their super chargers. Its all in attempts to lower the intake air temps to gain as much power as possible. Can I say this setup is worth the $300. Not with personal dyno results I can't but I can say that it serves its purpose well of providing cooler air to the engine.

Living On Wheels the air goes into the intake manifold after it’s been through the intercooler though. I think the only real way to see if it really makes a difference is to put a temp probe post intercooler and take temps from there. I could be wrong though, just how I think of it logically.

Cody Nixdorf I totally get where you’re coming from and don’t necessarily think you’re wrong. I guess the way I see it is the intercooler will only cool the air down so much. So if you can provide cooler air going in then I would expect cooler air to come out. Obviously I can’t say that for sure though.

At the time of this video no, but I have a completely new upgrade KC300x turbo in the truck now. Seems to run very good.

Unfortunately since my truck did not come with remote locks it makes the install a bit more tricky. Not sure what my plans are for that yet. As for the tuner, yes you would definitely still see a large performance increase with a tuner. basically the same power improvements without the trans tuning.

Yes the S&B has routing from the front grill and my exhaust is already a 4” all the way back. 👍🏻

I didn’t see anything measurable gain. Just peace of mind

Thanks for watching. In regards to mpg, you might see a slight increase but from my experience it will be pretty negligible if you do. The biggest thing is providing good or better airflow with good or better filtration. I personally have never seen any real substantial improvement on mpg from a CAI.

Yup, it was sitting right behind the filter by the master cylinder.

That is the Edge cts2 Insight. It’s a great monitor/gauge setup. I’m running the cts3 now and it’s even better. amzn.to/3Cmm13F

Not sure if you’re trying to agree if disagree with the video

@@LivingOnWheels Geee. Engine compartment air is warmer than outside air. What is so hard to understand. it is fifth grade knowledge. So warmer air is thinner and worst for combustion. Also with warmer air intake, the computer will retard the spark timing to avoid detonation. Im a mechanic for decades in Philly. Colder Air must come from outside the engine area, never from inside.

Let me get this straight. You have your panties in a bunch because I made a video testing and numerically showing how big of a difference a CAI drops intake temps vs pulling air from under the hood? I'm literally proving and showing the exact thing you're trying to say. Also, being a mechanic for decades, you should probably know that this truck doesn't have spark timing... Now it could possibly adjust the injection timing but I do not believe it even does that on these trucks. Its main purpose is for the PCM to know whether or not it's cold enough to actuate the exhaust back pressure valve or not on warmups.

The edge plugs into the OBD 2 port and reads the factory sensors. To get fuel psi and egts you’ll have to add your own sensors to it.

Hmmm. Its hard to say without hearing it myself. I can say that when I installed my S&B I could definitely hear my turbo more than with my 6637. To me it kind of sounds like you're just hearing how much air the truck is actually sucking in. Under light throttle its not enough to really hear and under heavy throttle everything else is so loud that you cant hear it. That would be my best guess without hearing it myself. As for the boost fooler I would say if you are under 25 psi it is not necessary. If you are over 25 psi you can either run the fooler or have your tuner tune it out.

I definitely think the S&B is better than the K&N. K&Ns are know for dusting by peoples turbos from lack of filtration. As far is increasing mpg goes, I think you’re right around the range I would expect. Just things to stay on top of, make sure you’re fuel and air filters are clean and make sure your ebp tube/sensor are clean. Beyond that it’s mostly in your right foot.

If its true check the CFMs and let me know what you find. What what I can find it looks like the S&B flows more air.

Sucking up more air doesn’t make it more efficient....it’s the quality not quantity, more colder air=more power while warmer air=drop in power. I hope you learn from this.

Your turbo will only suck so much air. Bigger turbo, more air needed, bigger filter needed. Unless your filter is plugged up because you don't take care of it. It will flow plenty of air. It would be expensive to put a truck on the Dyno and get real world data as far as air quantities vs quality vs warm\cold, and difference between a 10° temp drop. I'll stick to the easy\peasy and just suck colder air thru a free flowing air filter that is taken care of.

I wish I would’ve thought about doing this test back when I had the stock setup. Unfortunately not.

The display I use is the Edge CTS2 Insight. Its a pretty awesome little unit for everything it is capable of doing. They also just came out with the CTS3 that looks like a nice improvement over the 2. CTS2: amzn.to/2ArOude CTS3: ru-vid.com?q=https%3A%2F%2Fkcturbos.com%2Fcollections%2F7-3-powerstroke%2Fproducts%2Fedge-insight-cts2%3Fref%3AMTAwMzc0LjIyMjUuMTAwNDI3LlQ&redir_token=QUFFLUhqa1psMmFwQ2dzempEdXNwRnMwYkhBTXBHNmRCQXxBQ3Jtc0trbE41cWRLeFFZRFN5Z05UeE9GOTlNcDBkLTBGdm9KU3RTQ2kzUkdSWC1wUnVldTg4M0hNTWM2M3lXb1NIaXpXVFpsckpHbXFwcDRiMVhRQ2syaDhON25WTXpTbHJWcVRzRG5nMm5LdGRpeW5YcnFkRQ%3D%3D&event=video_description&v=aEQaeBn8aJM

The sensor is pre filter on the S&B. So where should I have put the sensor pre filter for the 6637 open element filter? The 6637 is sucking under hood air. The the point of the entire test. Is it worth getting a cold air intake over running an open element filter such as the S&B.

Living On Wheels I went back and edited my comment to explain better. Since you asked, your best intake air temp measurement would’ve been to drill a hole and use a grommet in the metal intake pipe you used to mount your air filter then the before install part would’ve been closer to being accurate but, because your factory filter housing isn’t being used your numbers would’ve still been hotter than normal. Your ambient air temp sensor should not be behind the headlight but, in behind the front bumper or like in some other applications under the truck away from ANY heat source perhaps under the cab between the rocker and the frame. Your video was good but, it yielded inconclusive results due to the intake air temp and ambient air temp sensors both basically measuring two different areas of under hood temps.

I get what you are saying. You are considering intake air temps of the air that is physically inside the intake tube past the filter. I am considering intake air temps as the temperature of the the air getting sucked into the filter. The before test the sensor is sitting up against the bottom side of the air filter. So, the test are both reading air temps just before the intake. The way you are explaining it is not wrong by any means but simply a different test. The ambient air temp sensor I had ran down to behind the headlight picked up temps behind the front bumper. Yes, it would have been better to route it as far from the engine as I could, but without cutting and extending the harness on it, that was as far away as it could get. While driving the sensor did in fact read accurately and showed the same temps as what local thermometers showed. Obviously while parked the radiant heat got to it. Like I mentioned in the video. In terms of the wiring, I'm not gonna deny that at the time the wiring needed to be cleaned up more. Like I said in the video, I opted to keep all the sensor wires at full length to allow for flexibility down the road. Its a lot of fun cutting wires down to a perfect length only to find out down the road you need to move them to a new location and now they are too short. It all a work in progress.

Living On Wheels gotcha, yes it’s all a working process. Though I still think I didn’t convey the intake air temp correctly, you replied “the intake air sensor was sitting under the air filter right against it” that is still measuring under hood temp going into the filter. The factory filter housing similar to the S&B housing both measure the intake air in the housing and not in the intake pipe. The actual difference from a stock housing to the S&B housing would be the extra air flow from the S&B housing while the engine is running at idle and driving. The increased air flow helps the engine along with getting air from the grill area makes the difference in air temp, due to the side inlet being the same in both housings. Therefore, your comparison would be inconclusive in any situation without having the factory housing for the before install temps measured. Measuring the intake air with a open filter (no housing) either next to the filter or in the intake pipe would be the difference vortex flow temp in the pipe versus (next to the outside of the filter) or under hood temp. True intake temp measuring would only be accurate in the intake manifold which would be after the charge air cooler and turbo compressor which would properly show how a “cold air intake” assists the “Charge Air Cooler” in cooling intake temps to the engine. I’ve seen many truck like yours claiming to be measuring intake air temp, not wrong but not right either and cold air intakes only drop intake manifold temp 10 - 15 degrees at best. I enjoyed your video in any case as well as this discussion, please keep the videos coming. Guys that are just getting into this type of work or performance upgrades need to see actual comparisons no matter the info achieved by any comparison. It’s about getting out there and doing your own work rather than paying some over priced performance shop to have it done. Keep up the videos man!!!

@@80sfordguy I agree that it would have been an all around better test to use the factory intake as well. Unfortunately I no longer had that. The reason I chose to still do this test was because the 663 filter is probably the most commonly used aftermarket filter setup on these trucks and so I wanted people to be able to see the difference mad between that setup vs the S&B. I am sure there would be less of a difference if compared to the stock intake.

Most I’ve hit with cruise control on, pulling 10k-12k, going over a pass was around 1150. That was just letting the truck do what it needed to maintain speed.

I think I can feel justified in recommending it now. It looks really clean without the extra wiring that I have.

@@LivingOnWheels Where did you get it from and do they make one for my 97 obs 7.3?? Enjoy all your videos....learn a lot from them. Thanks

@@brucebell7623 I appreciate it. S&B does of a kit for the OBS trucks. www.riffraffdiesel.com/s-b-obs-powerstroke-cold-air-intake-kit-94-97/

Cold air is denser, Hot air is thinner. Hot air will change your air/fuel mixture.

@@FlutersGarage I understand the theory...but in normal driving conditions, no discernable difference, or advantage can be detected by using this product.....other than personally "feeling" good about having it, or simply liking it.

Correct nearly the same design but with a cheaper filter that filters less and flows less.

@@LivingOnWheels I'm not so sure that flow is really an issue until you're on the further end of performance upgrades, otherwise the fact that it filters less means it offers more flow.

@@jeramiet154 I’m so glad you said that! You are exactly right as far as more air flo needed for higher proformance engines, but more air flow means less filteration too. I work my 2000 7.3 and put the factory cold air intake back on it from afe, I cannot tell or feel the difference what so ever, nor has my mpg changed and I travel all over the country. But just wanted say from my experience your spot on

That’s actually a completely separate aftermarket fuse box. Not the factory one. So I don’t think it’s what you’re looking for

I have. Obviously hotter is hotter but the intake definitely helped keep intake temps down while driving.

hahaha someones gotta live on the edge

I didn’t really see any measurable difference. Just peace of mind knowing it’s breathing well and getting good filtration.