Best coating is care maintenance and battlescars. I am proud of every mark on my guns and most have a memory attached. Great video! Thanks for saying what was needed to be said.
Great vid, thanks for keeping it simple and real. In my experience I have never seen any firearm that gets regular use not have signs of use, or wear and tear regardless of the type of paint job or coating.
Good video, but I was hoping you would rank them based on your experience.... I mean a can of Aluma Hyde costs $13 and a can of Gun Kote costs $31, is Gun Kote worth 2.5x Aluma Hyde based on wear resistance.
I've used both, on several guns: Alumahyde II on my two WASR Ak's in matte black. Gunkote on my Beretta 92. Gunkote is much, much tougher and more wear resistant than Alumahyde, I'm not sure how best to illustrate it but I know solvents like short spritz of brake cleaner cause little finish removal on Gunkote whereas, you risk taking off the Alumahyde if you wipe it hard with brake cleaner or acetone. My guns are strictly range use so to me it doesn't make a difference but, if I wanted maximum toughness I'm using Gunkote.
That's why I just polished my G29 slide to a mirror finish got tired of the finnish scratching. Cool looking and it's stainless steel. It works for me.
@@BahbahKaduche Well for some weird reason my polished G29 slide gets my sweat all over it and never rusted on me after 4.5 years. Isn't that the darndest thing.
out of curiosity, was this question asked by guys who have lifted trucks with 22 or 24 inch rims and mud tires that never go off-roading and just hang out at the mall?
See I’m a perfectionist, I’m also a teen (16), about 5 months ago at the end of February, early March my father purchased me and him Daniel defense V7 Ar-15s. Mine is deeps woods cerkote and his is a brown cerkote. I love the look of the rifle and even though I take care of it and clean it after every use, I still hate seeing wear from normal use. It has about 600-700 rounds through it. eg. Ejector ramp marks where the cerakote has come off due to rounds hitting it when they eject out. Etc These videos just help ease my mind. Thanks
Wow! A Daniel Defense? I can’t afford that and I’m 40! I’m slowly building my own version of a pistol based on the DDM4 because I can buy great quality parts over time, but wish someone would buy me a Daniel Defense. I hope you are safe and responsible with it and that get a lot of great moments with your Dad. Mine is a felon so we can’t bond over guns but I wish we could.
The coating has to be good technology.The point is coatings are only as good as the pre-treatment process. The process we use at our plant can provide much better durability than the OE finish that comes on a Glock slide or any slide, or barrel. Our chemical processing does truckload quantities, so it a half a million dollar system including a waste water treatment system. Then again other DIY processes can be improved greatly if done correctly. Only cleaning the substrate as with the Aluna-Hyde product, is not capable of holding up because of the lack of necesary pre-treatment. Anything coated is only as good as the pre-treat process.
In the Good Ole days guns had Blueing on them .. and it was easy for rust to go through the Blueing.. It's my Impression that Cerekote is much more Corrision resistant
Excellent video dude! I hate watching videos where you can tell they care more about cool hair, perfect soundtrack, and script than getting the info out.
If you use your gone and holster it, nothings gonna last. I need something in stainless. 300 bucks every year is getting old. Baked rattle can woulda held up as well as cerakote.
I got my m4 new out of the box by the time I got back from Iraq that gun looked like chrome where it rubbed against my gear On a side note you can always reapply cerakote
Bottom line is firearms are tools. Tools get scratched,dented, knicked ect.. Cerakote is ok, I shoot frequently and holster wear is noticeable even with light use, just get over it, or don't use your guns, I'll buy them and scratch them for free hehe
A well processed firearm using cerekote should not show wear so soon, and by soon I mean within a year of frequent firing & holstering.. you do you use to cerakote now ?
@@couch405 i just put a 34 together for my girl for christmas its tiffany blue cerakoted. We stopped at the range on sunday and she ran 50 to 75 rounds through it and the coating is completely worn off on the breach and spots inside the slide on the part that picks up the next round and chipped at the ejection port from brass hitting it. I contacted the people i bought the slide from and sent pictures and they told me its normal wear. They offered to re do it but i declined.
Also one thing you didnt mention in the video was the feeling of cerakote vs alumahyde2 and the 8 dollar rustoleum that's my concern I understand some will last a bit longer but the process is lengthy. I do get that it all comes off. But what is the best feeling? Would putting a base of alumahyde or cerakote, waiting a few weeks then applying the cheaper camo paints to apply the patterns and not spend 20 dollars or more work since we are all trying to save money. I get the cheaper paints will wear away quicker the more you use it just asking if this method has been used and to any noticeable benefits? I dont see any videos of people doing this. Watched many videos spray painted everything on earth except my rifles but I agree the black color is frightening to liberals and non gun users. Would the asian kid from Fordham be kicked out of school If he camo painted that gun in pink he was charged with intimidation. Was just a photo. This is why after 14 years I've finally decided to do a paint job.
I shoot almost every weekend with my ARs. I’ve applied some industrial coatings they use on oil field parts. My AR is hard to overheat and the coating isn’t coming off without blasting lol.
Here's the key you're missing here....coming from an ex autobody technician...first sand down to bare metal with 300-400 grit, then blow off particles with compressor and clean with wax and grease remover and tack cloth. Primer it--piss it on...use black self etching primer if doing dark colors and grey primer if using light colors. Self etching primer has adhesion promotion as well and will make the paint last much longer and not flake though proper sanding going from course to light is key here first and foremost. After you would usually wet sand it but that will be too messy and you couldn't get every crevice anyways so dry sand it going from 600 to 800 grit. Blow off using compressor then clean again with wax and grease remover using a tack cloth. Now you can paint. Piss it on using 4-5 layers letting it dry between each. Don't apply 2 thicker coats or it will turn out like shit and not adhere very well like it seems you may be experiencing from watching your video. Let it fully dry and you should have the parts hanging allowing them to air dry as well. Make sure you strain the paint if going the cerakote method but I personally am going to do this to my Mossberg Maverick 88 that I got that has an adjustable tactical stock but was coated with what looks like raptor liner when I bought it for $80. If you prep it this way using gloves and following all steps you will have a finish that will last much much longer than what you're experiencing here no matter if using cerakote or not. Cerakote is great but not great enough to justify spending $70 on a pint just yet. ;P
I totally agree with man. And on the other hand cerakote is more durable but environment always change and cerakote is expensive to keep changing with rattle cans you can change color as much as you like you can get a lot of cans for the price of a cerakote job
Either you just refinished your gun or you don’t use it enough. Couldn’t have said it better myself. For the most part I try to keep my hunting guns from getting rusted or scratched, but most of them have signs of being carried in the woods. With ar and ak platforms and pretty much all handguns that are being used harder, I could care less if it’s scratched as long as it functions.
Same principle as a car paint job. The more you have that car out on the road and use it in various conditions, the more wear and tear the factory paint job is going to suffer.
I think as time go's buy you will see new indestructible finishes replace paint on firearms. Most of the finishes like Robar, NP-3 , Nitex resulted from off shore oil drilling rigs in a never ending fight to keep the saltwater from damaging the fittings then used on firearms latter. These fitting are subjected to not only the saltwater but very high pressures at depth for years. So they will find a better way to cover firearms with a more permanent coating sooner or later.
Dino Nucci Yeah i always take my mags with me when i head out to the platform. I also make various mags while in out on the platform in the sheet metal shop i run. We have some impervious ways to make metal last for weeks, hehe hahehae haw
what do you recommend for a 1984 browning bar with wood furnature? I need to coat it with something because it rust just taking it out of the case between hunting trips. Has a few bluing blemishes on the barrel also.
If they want that old school blueing look, I recommend Sniper Grey Cerakote to my customers. It has an oily, pencil graphite look to it like old gun metal. One of my absolute favorite colors.
What about NP3 or NP3+ finish I’m hearing if you have the entire pistol done it has no friction and you’ll have a smoother trigger and action in general. Also hear it doesn’t wear as easy ass all the other coatings?
You can save ALOT of money on a gun if you buy a model that doesn't sell and you cerakote it to look like you want. Case in point. Sig Alloy p226 elite. This gun is in an alloy version that %99 of ppl don't like but the gun comes with siglite sights, SRT trigger and extended beaver tail and it's less than $900 where a normal elite runs $1200-$1300 at least. So buy the gun and get it cerakoted and boom you've just save $200 bucks or more for an awesome gun that looks EXACTLY like you want it.
Are there any of these that aren't good on plastic? I thought Aluma Hyde II was supposed to be just for aluminum until I just saw a video where a guy sprayed all his polymer parts with it lol. Just wondering which of these I can use without having to break the rifle all the way down. Had a hell of a time getting this one receiver lapped in the way I wanted it and the barrel nut torque right, I'm not breaking that rifle down again just for a paint job.
As a paintguy I can tell you: There is no paint for ALL materials. Wood is "moving/working", just as plastic, contracts, expands. A glass-hard paint wont even make sense there. If you want something durable, you need stuff you cure in the oven @150°C or powder. 2K@roomtemp, I dont really trust it. The cap says it holds up on his gun (thats why I am here, to hear that from an actual user), awesome, but I doubt its the best there is.
Even a Type 3 class 2 comes off easy... Good review, at least you can always repair finishes. If you are collecting, sure put it in a safe, they are excellent investments. If someone bead blasts your firearm it's not going to look good reanaodized.
duradize from durakote is incredibly tough, I sprayed a set of outer fork tubes for a dirt bike when it came out and it still looks good years later. Probably wouldn't look good on a gun tho.
Do finishes last? No.......Why Not?.......Because friction exists. Friction is the reason no finish will ever last. There is maybe a handful of things that can defy friction, finishes are not one of them. Well worded video. Honestly the only thing I want to come off my guns are every law restriction on them at the moment.
You lost me at the wooden sling shot cerakote job....jk....very informative and just bought 2 surplus Berrettas and Im going to cerakote them. I know what to expect now.
What if you take a clear coat; spray ie; alumnihyde etc. and spray it over the Cerakote. Can you do this and will it make your finish last longer if you keep clear coat periodical touch up's?
I generally stick to DIY Krylon paint jobs. My main concern now is will my gun rust under the finish? I watched another youtube channel, where this company is selling stencils to use with all types of painting styles, including Krylon, and in his very next video, tries to sell his Cerakote paint jobs, and saying how it's stupid to spray paint you firearm with Krylon, because moisture is going to get under the paint and the gun will rust. Kind of contradictory. So what do we do to keep our weapon from rusting after painting with Krylon, or anything else for that matter?
Police abd lawyers say if you are put in a situation where you have to shoot someone and say the gun you have is all decorated and "tacticool" it can look bad and questionable in a court case or when being questioned. It is yiur right but it's something to take into consideration.
While yes, it is an overblown concern. The same argument could be made for painting your car versus getting in an accident. Saying you meant to drive fast, etc. Every situation and jury is different.
Found this Vid after a couple months of buying my first cerakoted and 1911, and has left me feeling even more confident about my purchase. I’m not getting anywhere worrying about low surface rust. Now I’m getting ideas of what should be the next paint scheme for the ‘11.
Great video as usual. i have been looking into brownells Teflon/Moly gun finish is supposed to be very durable and have the added benefit of lowe friction to a point where they claim it self lubricates. Only reason i even want to finish/refinish any part of my AR is because it was a build. my upper is finished in nickle Teflon and anodized.. so i pray to closely match it,not sure is i can paint over it.
The factory finish on my VP9 looks more like a dark gray/battle worn finish after just a year n a half of going in and out of my holster and normal use. No, no coating holds up for long. BUT, I must have gotten a mutant can of Krylon once. An ar mag I painted (khaki). That "finish" is in better condition than any of my factory finished mags and I beat the hell out of it. That one's just an oddity.
@@CaptainBerz I am well aware, however it would’ve been nice to see what it actually takes to scratch the varying materials. Surface hardness is one of the big proponents to something like Cerakote, and the downside to the traditional rattle can finishes. It would’ve been nice to see an actual comparison on something like a test piece, that’s all.
In my opinion it doe not matter. Nothing in the end works and it is a battle not worth wasting money on. Again in my opinion. I have a cerkoted Glock I use for CCW. It was worn in a week of carrying in certain areas, the same as other finishes with other Glocks I use.
I have a benelli sbe original. The receiver isn't that badly off but I want to cerakote it. Do I have to completely remove the original finish or can I ruff it up evenly and then coat it?
Try out the oil slick/chameleon finish that uses vaporized metals, I would imagine it would last longer than diy paint jobs . Why not even try painting it like you would a vehicle (Id love to paint mine the same sand color as my tacoma) with primer and a little something called clear coat that nobody on RU-vid has apparently heard of before. All the folks doing cerakote around here put a clear layer on at the end, you are getting chumped off if you dont.
What about powder coating? I recently bought a powder coating system to do parts of my gsxr and they've been holding up amazingly so now I'm wondering how it would hold up on a rifle barrel or maybe a lower receiver. Anybody have any experience with powder coating gun parts?
This sounds like someone who just uses spray paint and comes up with an argument of why he doesn't go higher quality. I use my AR all the time, but I was also taught to treat it like it could save my life if I take care of it. Yeah there are nicks and scratches here and there, but the anodized paint on it isnt chipping or falling off.
Just stating the obvious. Cerakote, which I have on some guns, just takes longer to wear off. But it does wear off. Spray paint I do does not chip or randomly fall off either.
The idea behind a finish isn’t necessarily for looks as much as it is to protect your gun. With that said, if I’m spending over $1000 on a gun, I expect to finish the last for more than a year. Can you imagine if a car dealer looked at you and said, you’ll be lucky to get a year out of that paint job on a brand new car. LOL
