Do NOT Make This Mistake with Your Canon R6 

I had this problem once and I now have my camera setting that prevents this. I have the R5 so I am not sure if the menu numbers are exactly the same, but under the orange menu # 2, there is “Set Shutter Speed Range.” I have it set to 1/125 so I won’t drop below that by accident. Sometimes I will set it to 1/250 or 1/500 depending on the type of session I am depending on the session type I am doing. I only need to take it off if I am doing landscape with a tripod or something.

I dug through 600 comments so you don't have to lol. Here are the various tips people suggested on workflow: 1) Set a minimum shutter of 125 or 150 in camera settings menu (esp if you're changing lenses, 1x focal length gets dicey) and use Auto ISO. This works for M or Av or Sv. 2) Shoot manual. Set shutter first (either 1x focal length or whatever will stop/blur motion as desired). Set aperture manually. Auto ISO. Adjust brightness with shutter speed. 3) Same as above, but control exposure with exposure compensation. Many suggested putting a max on ISO in settings menu if you're concerned on auto ISO (either 6400 or 12800), but others said Topaz and other tools are great and they don't get a ceiling on ISO.

I was a full-time pro photographer for nearly 50 years, shooting on everything from 10"x8" through roll film to 35mm to mirrorless of various sensor sizes. I really can't understand the fixation on using the slowest possible iso settings on modern mirrorless cameras. Even later generation micro four thirds don't start showing major noise problems until north of 3200 iso, so a camera like the R6 should be happily usable up to iso settings of at least 1000-1200 these days. 1000 is becoming the new 100!

I literally just ran into this the other day at my first wedding of the season and realized it when I got home! For the same reasons you mentioned! I used to be more aware of shutter and the sound, like you said, so this is super helpful to be more aware of and I'm glad you highlighted it! Great thing to keep in mind and be more aware of as I'm getting used to the R6. Thank you!

Thank you so much for your transparency and willingness to share this video. I was JUST telling my husband yesterday (before watching this video) that I had made a similar mistake and I was devastated when I saw the images post-processing. Luckily it was a teeny tiny portion of the overall gallery, but I was so disappointed...and the situation overall made me question myself and my skill level. Truly, this video was such an encouragement to me - and super helpful to think ahead of time how I can avoid the mistake again in the future. Thank you KJ!

Some excellent points that cannot be repeated enough. I have ALWAYS made it a practice to hit the Q button to quickly scan all the data on that screen. I don't know how many times the RAW setting was accidentally changed, or the one shot vs servo might have been changed, etc. I recommend you always start your day with the Q, and then repeat if you turn the camera off/on. I know in some circumstances, if, say you're hiking and you swing the camera over so it is resting on your back, there is a good chance you're going to push a button, rotate the control wheel, swing the joystick, etc. It's always a good idea to kill the camera when you have a void in the action, as mirrorless chews up the battery faster than the DSLR...and hit the Q button for a short visit. Best insurance policy I know of. Other than that, look to the Lock button as an alternate option. Katelyn is quite right about the 'feel' of the MarkIV for low shutter speeds...perhaps Canon can make the R6 groan when you drop below a set value.

What a great video! I watch a lot of the photography channels and I have not seen this subject discussed yet. It's not just an R6 problem, it's a Canon mirrorless issue in general (I shoot with the R5). And it's a problem for the exact reasons you state: 1) there is no double checking the LCD in the same way you would with a DSLR which would slow you down, and 2) there is no audible trigger for the slow shutter speed you would hear and feel with a DSLR or film camera. The other thing is that the super bright, beautiful image in the mirrorless viewfinder is deceiving. You cannot detect that incurable motion blur you will see the moment you open the images on a big monitor at home. Further complicating matters is that Canon's best RF glass is heavy and the Reciprocal Rule for lenses does not apply. If you're shooting with RF 50mm f/1.2, 1/100th shutter will not do. You need 1/250 or 1/500.

I love mi Mark4 but I think it’s time to change..I just bought the R6 and I’m very happy for it 😊 I’ll shoot a wedding next weekend so wish me luck 🍀

This has been my biggest problem with mirrorless this far. It has made me so discouraged. Thank you for making this video! Has me less discouraged about my abilities knowing it is happening to others too

Since we’re all being honest, I have had the same problem. Raising the ISO to 250 is a great idea. Thank you and I’m subscribing to your channel.

I'm starting my photographer journey with a R6, and I've had this low shutter problem, this video is a very good reminder for being aware to avoid this issue in the future, thank you very much.

Absolutely fantastic advice. I thought for minute or two that you were watching me over my shoulder. I "eliminated" the problem by going to manual and allowing ISO to adjust. Another advantage of the superior sensor compared to 15-20 years ago.

I thought I was the only one to get home an notice in sharp images. Over shot, over shot, over shot we are in the digital era new problems require new solutions. I have recently started using H+, with a quick squeeze of the trigger you can get 3-4 shots with one or two always very sharp. I’ve done this at two events now and it works flawlessly. As you can set up a range for you shutter as someone else has said.

I love your R6 videos! Shutter speed is arguably the #1 priority setting when shooting. start with shutter speed, then aperture, then iso. Another viewer recommends using the shutter speed setting in auto-iso. That's a great tip!

You know when you go on RU-vid and see a new post by someone you follow and it literally speaks to something you've been experiencing? This :)

Ok thank god I’m not the only one that is having these issues! Thanks to your advice I also went mirrorless and got the R6 (had the 70D up until now) and I’m having the exact same problem 😩 I really still have to adjust to life with this camera because after 11 years of perfecting DSLR I feel like I almost have to start all over. But good to know others also struggle with this 🙏🏼

I think your comment about hearing the shutter speed is spot on.

I set the shutter and aperture to what is most appropriate for the DOF/lens and amount of movement I'm expecting to stop, then set the ISO to auto and control the brightness with exposure compensation. Two bright? negative exposure compensation until it looks right. Two dark? Positive exposure compensation until it looks right. Err on having a faster shutter than normal so you don't run into the bottom end of the ISO range during brighter light shoots, otherwise, set the shutter to 1/focal length and forget it, and let the brightness change with ISO from exposure compensation. There's a lot of ways to get there, so really, it's whatever works.

Yep, done this exact same thing several times and have upped my iso too to give me that extra wiggle room. Glad I’m not alone!

This is such a validating video for me. I catch myself doing this when I am working in a fast-paced environment but never figured out what the issue was until now! Thank you so much for this video!!

I always make this same mistake -- thank you so much for not only identifying the problem, but also sharing a really great solution!

Thank you so much Katelyn! A lightbulb just went off for me. I just did a graduation session and noticed that there were numerous images that weren't as sharp as I am used too with my R6. Normally getting 99% tack sharp images, my last session was a little off, now I realize that I wasn't paying attention to my shutter speed. Very helpful review!

You have hit the nail on the head! So much so, a few months back I changed my minimum shutter speed in the settings menus to prevent this happening when I’m distracted. Certainly feel better knowing I’ve not been alone in this. Also, wish Canon would let you fine tune the minimum shutter speed. The jumps, within the menu, are quite large. Would be handy to have this as a favourite or quick menu option, changing if need be before each session.

AGAIN! What a great teacher! You simplify everything.. I have done the same thing... Thanks for the video.. pH org. Ohio

Such a great point. My 1st wedding with the R, I had set it to "silent shooting" and was shooting an indoor 1st look at 1/15. Such a painful lesson.

Super transparent and rad tips. Thanks!

Essential advice. Thanks for reminding us of the dangers of the EVF (and, come to think of it, DSLR finders, too)! I started in sports photography as a staff photographer at Runner's World, at a time when the company had five sports magazines. At the time, the "one-over" rule was prevalent ("Shoot at 1/250 with a 200mm lens, 1/50 with a 50mm," etc.), and I, in time, learned that it is complete folly, especially for sports! Okay, so you CAN shoot at 1/50 and get sharp pix. Good for you, now tell me your keeper rate... After 56 years in photography, what matters to me is SHARP images. It's why I would NEVER shoot in aperture-priority except in very rare, slow-moving circumstances (posed groups, etc.). The sharp image-lover's motto is: "Happiness begins at 1/500. Bliss begins at 1/1000. Ecstasy happens at 1/1600 and faster." It's a question of deciding when depth of field really matters. Great photos are about One Thing, and many, many times my photos are improved with a fast shutter and narrow depth. Thank heaven, as a utility photographer with mostly journalism-style assignments, ISO isn't as critical as it is for weddings. Okay, end of rant. Your work, including your service to photographers, is wonderful. Thank you! P.S. You helped me choose the R6 - thank you for that; I'm finding the R6 a hoot.

I encountered the same problem. You are so right.

I also Had the same Issue with My R6 I think its more then 1 thing But Fully understand you and agree. I Myself start shooting at ISO 200 or 250 and then using a higher shutter speed like 1/400 or 1/500 when doing street photography. Plus using the lock button but changing to allow only shutter speed has helped me a lot.

even i`m a sony user i watch your all videos.

Thank you because I know that i am not alone... Very frustrating when you get home.... very good way to talk about this subject... thank you.

I never run into this issue anymore with my R5/R6. I set manual Shutter Speed, manual Aperture and AUTO ISO. I use the large wheel on the back of the camera to + or - exposure. I take the shot. When I get home, I let my photos be automatically processed in "DxO PureRAW 2" software. Then I move to LR or PS. PureRAW fixes any noise in my photos regarless of any "high" ISO settings. You are right, We can't fix subject movement or camera shake, but we can eliminate noise, even up to ISO 10k! Please don't get stuck on manual ISO. These cameras are so good, there are ways around the fear of noise. I hope you get to try this.

Thank you! I’m grateful to know I wasn’t the only one having this problem!!!

I'm beginning with an r6 , its a wonderfull camera and didnt realized this was happen to me too. Your work is awesome.

This is why I shoot on aperture priority and not full manual with mirrorless. There's really no benefit to setting ISO manually ever, and the only thing shutter speed does is prevent motion blur and camera shake, so I simply set a lower limit (I think it's called "shutter speed range" on Canon). This way the system does exactly what I'd do in manual, which is after I've set aperture for whatever I want creatively, keep ISO as low as possible while using a shutter speed that avoids blur. Except I barely have to worry about my settings anymore, all I do is change aperture depending on how much depth of field I want and adjust minimum shutter speed down when people are still in dark environments and up when people are moving a lot (like dancing).

I see there are already some people telling about the "set shutter speed range". I would also suggest to use auto ISO. I don't remember what the setting is on Canon, but the auto range can be set too. With modern full frame cameras, ISO 6400, sometimes even 12800 are perfectly fine, even for larger prints (A4, A3). I usually use the range of 100-6400 as auto ISO on my camera (not R6) and it can be set to what ever you like. I hope this works also on the R6. But you indeed highlighted one of the main drawbacks with the EVF for sure... thanks for the video!

for me as a photographer of 15 years plus. Iso is always the first thing I would look to change on my R6 AFTER setting and forgetting my shutter speed and F Stop. Iso 6400 is still greatly useable (although if you're somewhere where you're using that iso setting then ideally I'd be using helper light). Great video though Katelyn

Great video. I just took some portrait shots yesterday, and had this same exact issue. I felt like such a moron, but I'm feeling better now knowing that even a professional like you is making the same mistake. Thanks for your candor and honesty regarding this issue. And like you, I'm using to shooting with a 5D Mark IV, and I'm loving this camera.

I mostly have the settings that it does not go below the aperture speed depending on the size of the lens, 1/60 if it is 50mm and if it is 100mm it does not go below 1/125, but it depends on what you are photographing. I think that IBIS helps, but probably only if the object is not moving

Oooohhhh that explains.. i used to have tack sharp photos with my 5d3.. now with my R i change my shutterspeed all the time and they are less sharp than i was used to!

I have shutter speed assigned to a button so that I can determine the lowest shutter speed when needed as needed :)

I've made this mistake many times with my R6 for the same reasons as you. That's actually how I discovered the beauty behind the combined image stabilization of my RF 70-200 f/2.8 and the IBIS. I accidentally shot the end of a session at 1/40 of a second once and only had to throw out about 25% of those photos due to motion blur. I breathed a sigh of relief, but I love the idea of giving me some shutter speed buffer next time. Great tip! I wish there was like a shutter speed warning indicator for times like this.

Your voice and general command on speech is so soothing and professional, very unlike some of the other channels. Thank you for educating and sharing your findings with us Katelyn. Wish you well ! :)

So glad you mentioned this Katelyn! I thought I was the only one who did this. Its happened to me a few times and I had to remind myself to adjust the ISO instead of the shutter. I will say though the few photos I shot with my 85mm at 1/30th of a second lol actually came out in focus and sharp. I could never do that with my old 5D Mark IV.

Great subject to talk about. The cameras should come out with a little red flashing sign that comes on when the camera ss gets below a designated ss that you set. Not super neccessary but could be a help.

Same with Nikon. Exactly as you describe it! I also made the same mental note TO CHECK THE SHUTTER!

It happened most of the times during low light situations. Shutter easier to change than ISO, but I don't to change aperture setting.

This happened more times with my R5 than I care to admit. I think you’re right; but for me, it’s a matter of accidentally touching the screen and making unwanted adjustments. Perhaps it’s still just a matter of getting used to the new camera. I bought it last August-but I’ve been a Canon DSLR shooter for decades. These cameras are really a brand new paradigm.

I think that issue can happen with more canon models. If i am not mistaken you have to take care if you use Canon R and i think Canon 5D mark IV to. Correct me if i am wrong

I do the same thing on my Z7ii and Z9. You nailed the mirror feedback - I think that’s the feedback you miss, especially with the Z9 as it’s entirely shutterless. It’s just something I need to be aware of.

I'm looking into getting this camera. Currently shooting on my over a decade old Rebel T3i, so anything is an upgrade, but this camera has EVERYTHING I need for my photography needs. I'm so glad you mentioned this issue because it makes so much sense! The ease of live view can be it's biggest caveat. Sometimes we rely too much on technology that we forget it can't read our minds (yet. Hahaha). I will always keep this in the back of my mind now whenever I finally get my new camera. THANK YOU! ❤️

This happened to me last week. Thank goodness I was shooting a baseball game and I noticed but it is an easy mistake to make.

This just happened to me. I just got my R6 a couple months ago and a shoot I did recently I accidentally had my shutter speed at 1/60 and it was a super overwhelming session! I need to slow down and chill. Thanks for this video 🤍

everything you are saying I have done. I have learned to use my iso as well.

Preach Girl, this has happened to me with this camera more than one time. You have to shoot this camera very deliberatly, paying attention constantly to your settings. Great point that might save some one from a fail moment.

Hi Katelyn. Loving the videos. I just received my new Canon R6 today from B&H and just spent a good 8 hours learning every tab in the settings. There are loads of new impressive features compared to my Canon 6D that I have used since 2014 and it has reshaped the way I learn things with muscle memory. --- I firmly believe that the (3) Custom modes on the R6 are a huge life saver and super easy to access on the R6. I strongly recommend utilizing and customizing those (3) modes to suit your top 3 "styles" or to suit what's being shot. I found I never incorporated the 20fps electronic shutter in any of my custom modes simply because its too damn silent and I also prefer the slight audible shutter sound for confirmation. Another tip to avoid making mistakes is to elect to run the mode ring on the RF lenses in the OFF position with no feature (Both Stills and Video imo) Since this can easily be bumped and turned. We want to setup our cameras to be Stupid Simple so when under pressure we can find the right change with the flick of a switch. --- My primary suggestion would be to turn off the touch screen feature and scroll with the dials instead. This will limit any accidental selections on the touch screen and assure your settings are locked in. Plus, we are used to scrolling through settings with DSLR's it shouldn't be that big of an inconvenience. Anywho, I know these new R bodies are loaded with new tech and miles different from what we are used to running and gunning with. I hope some of this helps you figure out how to refine your camera settings. Your videos inspired me to buy the R6 for wedding photography by the way! (These things are impressive)

I have had this exact problem! This is exactly what I have been reading with. I have been reminding myself of the exact same thing at my sessions now!

I just got an R6. The sensorstabilisation is amazing but it won't stop the movement of moving objects

Me tooooo! My husband kept telling me not to do that once editing and realized I just started moving it without realizing I was getting so low! Good to know that it doesn’t only happen to me. xoxo sis!

I shoot auto racing and shoot specifically in manual mode and tend to hit the iso wheel when walking around or on the golf cart

While I am far from being a pro like you, here's my style of shooting: While I am in Manual, I am able to choose both my aperture and shutter speed and I have the camera choose the ISO by setting Auto ISO on. I will keep an eye out for an acceptable ISO, but I am primarily concerned about the other two settings.

I have literally done this so many times on my EOS R. I never really realized why I was doing it, but you’re right. The EVF looks great, but you cannot see what it really looks like on a tiny screen.

Been there done that. Setting a minimum helps. It happened on the old 5d too for me. After you get burned a few times you get more wary. Makes you feel like a novice. I recently realized I almost never use the meter any more. The histogram and exposure simulation has taken its place. The meter (spot) is still useful to precisely place the dress on the upper edge of the usable highlights. You can set iso steps to a full stop which greatly speeds isn’t changed. You’re right that iso 200 and 250 are practically the same quality. Even a full step under 1600 doesn’t change very much. Thank you for sharing your experience.

Thank you so much that explains why I was having this same issue when I took my R6 to the Zoo.

I’ve not yet worked out the best ISO on my R5, but ISO 640 on Sony and Fuji cameras are cleaner than ISO 320… so set it to 640 to give you more latitude adjusting shutter if you shoot like Kaitlyn. I shoot in Av or M with automatic ISO with it set to 200-6400; it’s 200 because I have highlight tone priority set for a more “film look highlight”

Why not just set a minimum shutter speed in camera so that you don’t have this issue ?

I did a lot of events shooting many years ago with a 5Dmk3, I got into the habit to set my aperture and shutter and only change the ISO, the highest ISO I used was 6400, but mostly up to 3200, I find the image is still very good at 3200, with the R6 6400 is great. I found that way of shooting very fast and effective for me anyway.

Oh Katelyn, Big issue here, distracting folks at shoot, wind and weather changes, cloud/ sun. Vintage Races with high speed subjects. Depth of effective effective focus. Branding in the shot identifying the place and event with deep focus. All these without post processing…. Over shoot …. Try 6k for event or 64 GB Extreme Pro. Your reminder is so relevant for all who shoot, after all you’re recording historical events. I so appreciate your video. We have the R5 as well. The new 1.5 firmwear helped in the lost focus issue. BTW I engage my youth as a Ginger , built character, no have white hair, with the same CHEROKEE/ IRISH Attitude for respecting others for their prospective on acknowledging we all were born with different gifts with obligation to share, creating a more cohesive and joyful existence. 🍀🙏🦅

Good point! I started experimenting with Fv mode on the R6 - hard-setting the Fstop and Shutter speed and letting the ISO float. This is for outdoors stuff where I want a specific F-stop and don't want to exceed the X-sync of 1/200 (because I don't want to strobe the poor subject). So if I'm shooting someone in a bright area, then swing around and photograph someone in a much darker vendor booth the ISO compensates. RISK: noise, but you can limit the upper end of the Auto-ISO range to what suits your taste. I'm not "locked-in" on this yet - I'm still experimenting at this stage. Just an idea.

Super good point, I have this a lots even with my rp

I've done that a few times. I mostly shoot sessions in aperture priority. I usually just prioritize adjust ISO. It's easy to play with the compensation dial and then end up with a slow shutter speed. I agree about the ISO also. Up to 400 is pretty much clean.

I’m unsure if it’s been mentioned, I don’t want to read 548 comments… buuut if you hit “silent lv” in menu, mode 1 is electronic front curtain, OFF will make it sound DSLR~ish and you can hear when the shutter speed is dragged (makes two snaps when it opens and closes). Disabling silent lv also helps bokeh, and has been known to lessen (or cure) banding when shooting strobes in HSS.

This is exactly why a lot of wildlife shooters have gone to manual mode with auto-ISO. Aperture and shutter speed are good and, worse come to worse, noise can be fixed in post.

You can also set you min and max shutter speed in the menu, so it doesn't let you go lower that 1/200 for example.

you are such a GOOD teacher!!! just what I needed to hear. Thank you!

i had that happen a few times on the DSLRs in the past, getting the shutter speed to slow, i do shoot with the R6 now and i now set my F stop and shutter speed and ill make my changes with the ISO, normally flipping between 100 up to 800 or so, if i have to start pulling to much on the ISO then ill revisit my shutter speed 2ed and my F stop 3rd normally, on the R6 im comfortable shooting up to 2000 when i need to and know its still normally going to be pretty clean

Oh my gosh yes! This haas been my #1 mistake too. You nailed it!

I love your honesty. It's so wonderful, because I can relate. Thank you for the video.

Katelyn, thank you SO much for all these videos and sharing the wealth of knowledge. It’s like you a sweet every single question I have. You are so experienced and I appreciate you sharing the wealth of knowledge. This video is just what I needed to boost my confidence and make changes in the next shoot. Appreciate you lots!!

I did the same thing. Thanks so much for this video

I just got my R6 this week, and I'm LOVING your videos on it! I'm particularly glad I saw this one, as I've never used a mirrorless before and could 100% see myself having done this! Also, thanks not just for the warning, but giving good tips to avoid it.

Where was this video last week? I had this exact problem for the first time during one of my shoots 😣😣😣

Set aperture and shutter speed. Use ISO to adjust exposure.

I've had this happen to me but less so about shutter speed and more about iso. I'm a stickler about shutter speed because people move too much. However your only options then are aperture and iso. My aperture is as wide open as the number of subjects allow for. So in a fast high paced situation it's so easy to accidentally bump the iso high to get a decent exposure and you really can't see noise on a preview so you can lose sight of how much you can increase. People will mention that you can limit the iso range but sometimes you need that flexibility without spending time going into menus when too many things are happening very quickly.

I agree...it's so easy to forget about shutter speed when it looks perdy in the viewfinder.

I have made this mistake more than once with my Nikon mirrorless but I'm always stunned that I still manage to get at least one sharp image - that NEVER would have happened with my DSLR cameras! It's definitely a learning curve that I'm still working on LOL

Great point, thank you!

Thank you so much for this video! Exactly what happened to me. Thank you for the tips.

This is so helpful to know as I just got my R6 markii and am learning all about it today. Thank you for all of your videos!

Thank youuu! I’ve been having this problem during family sessions and have noticed it’s when I’m fast shooting and feeling anxious or overwhlemed and I start cranking those settings

I did this this week!

Really interesting stuff - I'm still on D3S, D4 and have not gone mirrorless yet.

This is why I run full manual - aperture, shutter, AND ISO. I simply have had too many times where Aperture Priority has either run the ISO to ridiculous levels (56k?), or it has dropped the shutter speed down to blurry levels. And it's been no better when sticking with shutter priority. Even when shooting events with lots of people moving around, and wonky and irregular lighting, running full manual on a mirrorless is so easy and quick that I can absolutely stay in the zone and focus on composition. Even if I "miss" a bit and undershoot, the dynamic range recovery of these cameras is to good that most of the time I can easily correct in post. I'm on a Sony, so cannot speak specifically to Canon controls (though I imagine they're pretty similar - Canon ergonomics have a good rep), but I've got two control wheels, one set to aperture, the other to shutter, with the ISO menu set to a button. Lets me stay in the zone while having total control.

On my a7R3, I just set the Min SS to fast or very fast. Solves this issue.

Have iso on automatic shutter speed what ur comfortable with noisy pictures better than blury pictures

Hi Katelyn, I feel your pain! Lol! This is why I shoot with auto ISO and use exposure compensation to adjust exposure and not the Shutter Speed. Like you said the sensors are so good now that there isn’t much difference in a few hundred bases points. Maybe give it a try and see how you like it? 😉

For me, auto ISO minimum shutter speed is not the answer. Minimum shutter speed is for when I KNOW I am pushing things and need to brace myself to prevent motion blurring. Key word in that sentence is “know.” This morning (only hours after viewing your podcast), I KNEW this when my DSLR’s “click” turned int a “clunk.” Suggesting a solution for mirrorless cameras: For the artificial shutter noise, have it switch from “click” to “clunk” when shutter speed falls into the ‘dangerous to handhold’ range. Are you listening Canon, Nikon, Sony . . . I want this on my first mirrorless!

I've started doing a variation of the way you shoot: I set my shutter speed (usually 1/160), set my aperture (usually 2.8, 4, or 5.6, depending on the situation), and then I adjust my ISO on the fly. I'm not picky at all about ISO, and will regularly shoot up to 6,400 and beyond. With that said, I think I've made the exact mistake you mention here with my R6, and it happened when I didn't want to vary my ISO or aperture.

Oh there's always just one thing isn't there? Whether it's a piece of equipment, a relationship or other, that one thing that really gets you

good video, and thanks for sharing with us and I have have similar problems. I learned that checking the the output even in the EVF; not after every shoot but every few minute or so is crucial. DSLR or no DSLSR, there were are always things getting into the frame we do not notice, or someone closing a eye, or placing a hand or foot weirdly.