Also a great thing to do that helps prevent axle from bending is get larger m5 x12mm washers behind the hex hub. The tiny ones that it has from the factory causes a pivot point which makes them bend alot easier.
3 года назад
Do you mean something like this: boltworld.co.uk/products/m5x12-5x1-0-form-c-washer-stainless-steel-a2-304-din-125?variant=13599105286237? Wouldn't the friction hen it is in contact with hub (as the washer has greater diameter than the bearing) be an issue then?
Old video but I just got a Maverick Quantam MT (brushed) from Metro Hobbies. Your video, the way you articulated your message is spot on mate. Also great to have another Aussie banging out these videos. Thank you Subbed ! 🤙
Man wish I watched this BEFORE. Bought my first ever proper RC today, the Quantum+ Flux. And during the first battery run, the grub screw indeed flew away so now instead of day 1 having fun Im waiting for a grub screw order : | Your video helped me identify the problem tho, so thank you very much.
Thanks, my lad picked up a Quantum XT from Metro today and it’s good to be able to at least dip a toe in the water on the maintenance side of things. (Haven’t even driven it yet but the pgrade itch has already started! 😬)
Thanks Vas ,this looks like a decent truck , they all have their weak points but for the money these are very nice. Looks a lot tougher than a traxxas stampede, think we're going to have to get one of these. Great well explained video again mate.
Yeah. Mine is the new design. Landed a double at the track maybe 3ft tall and the front a arms both broke. They need to work on the material composition.
Thanks for the vid. I had 3 of these issue after just two runs with the Maverick. After reading up I also added 15mm washers behind the hex’s and have had no further bent axle issues. Those probs aside this is a really fun and cheap truck.
I got one a few days ago and it's great fun but I've found to be so delicate. I'm new to RC so taking it pretty steady, no big jumps or hard smashes etc. So far I've broken the front left suspension arm (exactly as you described, exact same happened to a friend of mine too), bent two of the axles, bent one of the rear turnbuckles and snapped the other. I didn't expect it to be a rock solid beastie but it's waaaay softer than I'd expected. Great video though dude, appreciate it 🙂👍
Nice tips. I just picked the brushless MT today. I'll follow your advice. I also bought extra set of lower control arms too just in case 👍. My LHS mentioned broken drive cups on the differentials. I'll probably put some bearings on the outside of the drive cups like I did with the Kaiju trucks
Thank you for good Informative video and great tips on the truck and rc controller. I was wondering what the gray push button located under the rc controller wheel is for
Look up hobbyplus ravage 10MT the new owners of hpi have just rebranded a China made car unfortunately. My sons maverick before we ran it I locktighted all these things. His maverick quantum has had the rear axles bend also. Not a bad car for the price for him but a newbie would be disappointed in one of these cars as it would be broken pretty fast if they don’t know how to drive an Rc. Great video highlighting these little tips mate more ppl need to see this.
Great job on this video. This is a great looking truck with the Pro-Line tires on it. I think this is the truck I said was toy grade. I stand corrected.
The best you can do with this truck before you run it , its put again in the box and take to the shop to get your money back. my first run with the mav last 5 minutes before it breaks (rear turnbuckle). i fixed it and in the next run brokes another thing in 4 minutes (center driveshaft gear) . Now im babysitting it, its my little puppy , it runs on flat asphalt with no jumps and no drifting and no nothing, completely useless for 200 € . Gotta wait for both spares about 40 days, about 3 hours of wrenching and i drive it for 9 minutes in 2 months. Nothing more to say.
@@Jear21 I send my bashers 20ft into the air. If I don't land on tires, it's usually game over. I broke two of them within 5 minutes during double backflip attempts. Big block Xmaxx and Outcast 8s. Check them out in my channel 👍
Nice video as always, very informative! I just picked up a Quantum XT used (my first 1/10 scale RC) and yep on the first run I clipped a tree branch and damaged a lower arm, bent the shock shaft and a drive shaft. Was kinda expecting this as the Quantum doesn't have the best reputation for being the most durable. As this vid was posted a couple of years ago, my question is there any new updates on more durable parts from HPI or aftermarket I can source before I go out and buy replacements?
super video , it will be awesome i think if there someone knows an option to change the suspension arms with the aluminum one.... they really broke so easy, i am waiting your video about the suspension oil you say in the previous video maybe you will go to change ti :) i found a suspension really unresponsible its the car is bouncing like a ball
Thanks for this quality vid. Would you recommend upgrading to a metal spur gear or keeping the sacrificial plastic one? I’ve already stripped mine once and replaced with a plastic one but wondering what to do if it strips easily again. Cheers 👍
Thanks for this video! I had an issue where it intermittently did not go left.. Turned out a little stone got under the servo, and (intermittently) jammed the servo arm.. Would be nice if that space was blocked by the plastic casing. Also had a stone jamming the long axle, bending it, making me think; Couldn't that be covered in a tunnel? I put a little washer in the front cup where that long axle goes into, making for a tighter fit. Without it, the rear cup wouldnt stay straight, it would flex, rattle, not run properly. I checked 10 times to see if i missed an original part somewhere, which could've caused this, but couldn't find any mishaps on my part. But im open to suggestions. I really like it as a first RC Car, but that little hex thing you mentioned using lock-tite on, caused me a lot of headaches. would be nice if it, and that pin it presses on would be bigger, giving it more contact area, because the pin gets deformed at that point as a result of all the forces. Will that survive the bigger, higher amp ECU 🤔 Im afraid not? And why the ... is that large 48? tooth gear made from plastic??? It survived for a whopping two days🤦🏼 Of course I immediately bought a metal one, but it did cost me some grief and another trip to the RC store 🙄 But again, overall i like the car.. And loved the video, just wish I watched it before my list of issues i faced.. 😂
Wish I saw this weeks ago. I have done spur gear. Replaced it now axle it was on snapped. Wondering if did spur gear too tight. I have ordered new axle hoping can replace it. All part of the hobby I guess.
Just picked up one today. Only issue I see is forward seems ok but reverse it’s very slow to engage or take off in reverse you have to pull the trigger way. Orw than to go forward and, when going forward if you hit the reverse button it just comes to a stop and won’t go into reverse until you let off the reverse trigger to nuetral then hit it again and it will finally go reverse Ever seen this.
Yes, that's how reverse is supposed to be. The ESC comes from factory set up with "Forward/Brake/Reverse", so as you're going forward and then push the trigger to brake, that's what it'll do - brake. Then you have to go to neutral and push the trigger again to go in reverse. This is done so you don't burn out your motor or cause damage to your drivetrain. Imagine you're going full speed and then hit reverse instantly. 😬 And all RCs are set up like this with the exception of crawlers. Crawlers will usually have the ESC set with "Forward/Reverse" from factory, with no brake on the trigger. However, they have auto brake or drag brake, as it's commonly known. Meaning that unlike the car you have that will roll if you push it by hand or even if it's on a slope, crawlers don't do that. This is because they travel at much lower speeds and because they crawl up and down steep inclines. So you don't want to have the car in "neutral" as it will roll when you don't want it to. Anyway, hope all that makes sense. And also, most ESCs will have reverse set at about 50% of the forward speed. Some ESCs will allow you to adjust that if you want, but usually 50% is plenty.
@@AussieRCPlaygroundamazing reply thank you and quick. You nailed it I just got into the hobby and started with a Axial SCX6 so I was used to the auto drag brake and instant reverse. This makes sense :) The brush motor is wild sounding compared to what I’m used too also. I spoiled myself with the scx6 right out of the gate.
I have another issue and you seem knowledgeable on these. When you mash the throttle you o go forward it starts to take off then totally dies then takes off. Everytime you full throttle fwd it starts to go then dies out then takes off. If you roll in on the throttle trigger slowly into full speed it takes off fine. Is this normal too? It does not do it if I hold it off the ground. Issue 2 when I power it on and hit the grass it seems like it has a ton of power for about 5 seconds and then seems to just bog down all the sudden with reduced power until I power it off and on again.
I have the flux. I negated that axle problem by changing the washers that space the axles and hold the pin in place. They are tiny and allow bending to happen. So I cut my own spacers out of plastic and now the wheels have very little movement. But maybe something else will break now.
Thanks for the video, great info...In the earlier video you mentioned that a suspension upgrade might help the car handling, did you have any suggestions on where to start with that? Were you thinking different oil or a full replacement shock?
Ottimo video davvero interessante ed istruttivo ho acquistato da poco un maverick MT ed ho notato se uso la dust cover si surriscalda molto il motore da non poterlo toccare, ho notato una rigidità degli ammortizzatori...devo cambiare l 'olio magari più fluido..ti chiedo se i differenziali sono lubrificati o devo controllare?grazie
Regarding the spur gear my car keeps coming out of line causing the gears to slip. I have to keep realigning the mesh wish seems to fix the issue temporarily. Is the problem the plastic spur gear? Should I replace for a hardened metal spur gear?
I have a brushed version of the quantum i made it brush less I've replaced so many spur gears and its sometimes likes to be rear wheel drive anyone have a solution to does problems
Update. Axle no longer bends on jumps but they do bend when there is a sudden introduction of grip when you're spinning tyres. Was doing a burnout in polished concrete when one wheel found grip. Bent the axles.
Would it be of any use if the axles were rolled up with a strong duct tape (e.g. rex duct tape) to increase the rigidity? I am thinking about buying the truck but I want to jump with it.
i bought one this arvo from Mr Toys and about 3 minutes into running her around the backyard, no jumps no crashes but a fair bit of throttle and a lot of wheelstanding. it lost drive and made a horrible sound like a stripped gear. What am i looking at here guys any idea? Is there warranty for this type of failure?
HPI rebrands these. Chinese brand. Just like Redcat. Nothing wrong with that. Just means HPI saw a good product/opportunity. They need products to sell and have no money for development.
@Aussie RC Playground thank you for your prompt response. I received my rc today so just going through everything. Great video full of interesting and very useful tips 👍🏽
