After developing lower back issues, I hadn't been riding road bikes for a number of years and even though my back is now stronger (thanks to regular Pilates sessions), I did have my saddle forward, and using an adjustable stem - primarily to work out the correct setup etc. But I did have the stem tilted up meaning it had a length of about 7 cm and a positive angle of about 16º thinking I'd be shortening the reach but still the setup felt bad - too much strain on my upper arms and lats. From watching another Bike Fit Adviser video, I moved my saddle back, and lowered the angle of the stem to 7º meaning the stem length is 9 cm. This has resulted in a better fitting position. Next I'll be buying a fixed stem of 9 cm with a 6 or 7º angle. Great informative videos.
Marinoni will do a complete bike (105 & steel frame) with custom geometry and custom paint for only $2500USD. That's a pretty great deal. You can choose from any just about any Campagnolo or Shimano groupset, choose your cassette and choose your wheels too, so you get a full custom build. Pretty awesome deal IMO!
After two stock bikes, multiple bike fits, I just couldn’t get comfortable. Partially because I’m old, and/or I don’t get on the bike as much as I would like so the hope of adapting wasn’t realistic. Decided to finally go custom Seven Axiom SL and it was the best decision. Pay up a little but you'll really enjoy getting on the bike if bike really fits you. Downside is once you go custom, nothing else will do and I can’t afford another custom bike. So in my case n=1.
Hi John! I've always been a enthusiastic person in cycling and always tried to solve my own issues in bike fit. Well, fortunately I'm not bad at it lol. In the other hand I could never buy a bike that was actually my size (and I liked it at the same time). In 2015 I bought this fixed gear frame which is a low pro model they sell in 57cm size. When it arrived I realized that the effective size was like 50x53 (st x tt), my previous bike was a 57x54 so I thought I wouldn't have any reach problems. First I tried normal setback seat post and a 90mm 0° stem, shorter and the one on my previous bike to compensate the low front reach. Things went well but I was having too low hip angle clearance, it was hard to breath and to spin in higher cadences. Time passes and today I have a Thomson set forward seat with saddle in the middle to open the hip angle and a 110mm 17° downwards stem. First I tried it upwards, but the handling felt weird. I really like the actual build, kinda got used to it, but still miss a higher head tube to get my neck a rest and maybe use a normal seat post. Sry for the long post, I just wanted to share my story with bike fitting myself and thank you for all the help so far!
I'd like to suggest considering even the adjustments that seem the opposite from what you are after. I used to experience discomfort in the wrist areas and 1000 km ago I tried to switch from a 75mm -10° stem, which was on my road bike when I bought it used, to a 100mm -8° one. The stability and handling improved and guess what? The discomfort was gone.
Looking forward to the next series! I bought a 90mm stem and keep my saddle a little more forward. I started with the saddle slammed forward, then slowly moved it back until I was no longer leaning on my arms. I could probably move it farther back, but it's my compromise. My bike seems like it might be just slightly too big for me, but it's also my first road bike, so I figure the fit will naturally improve somewhat as my body and fitness adjust to the new positioning. As I get more serious about the hobby, I'll be looking at "the next bike" as you mention. Thanks for your insight! I've been searching the internet, but nobody else seems to cover bike sizes that might be just slightly off, what compromises come with them, and what to do about it. A somewhat related question: is a higher handlebar a sign of ill fit? My saddle is maybe a cm above my handlebars, but I see all these people with their saddle multiple inches above. I'm on an endurance bike and I've gone for 4hr rides with no pain or discomfort.
Just an amateur but It depends on the type of riding you're doing. Pain free over 4 hrs is great. Larger frames can make this kind of fit possible. If that's what works for you why not? Later flexibility may change and you may want more speed so fit may be a moving target.
I am 5'10 and have short arms and torso but long legs especially the femur, I'm riding Felt f95 size 56 with 100 mm stem and zero setback seatpost with saddle moved forward a lot and it help me to open my hips more and not to overstretch at the bars too much, when I had 20 mm setback I feel pinching sensation in my hips and my pelvis would tilt so this current set up works for me, I also ditched 172, 5 mm pedals with 170 because my quads would kick my belly in the drops but I think I would be better with 165 mm cranks
I keep watching many of your videos even though for myself they are a slight miss. I'm wounded but keep riding all year around even through blizzards here in MN. I kid that my stable of bikes are "Frankenbikes" because of the severe modding & customization I have done to them. For example my now vintage 27 inch road bike has high-rise BMX handlebars & a cruiser seat to support a more upright position. Mostly I ride Full Suspension bikes for the daily comfort, though, because FS is much easier on all my joints. I'm missing 2 bones, have had 16 surgeries, my left hand thumb doesn't work (so I adapted both brakes to be right hand operated for maximum safety because I ride downtown & in _heavily_ populated areas) but I still see the wisdom, freedom, and health benefits of regularly getting on the bike. As long as I don't overdo it then it helps with the pain. Any chance you would do a more general bike fit video for those of us who have challenges to adapt around? I would appreciate it and if you do make one and get it labeled right you might be surprised how many of us there are out there who would eventually find it. Thanks for your time.
i an 184 mm my balance is at 85mm behind bb for starters i use a 72 deg seat tube with 58.5 top tube depending on head tube hight and angle reach is 37-40 cm stem lengh is my main issue 120-130 hight is no problem fork is not cut. what i want is fast cornering for crits i need to roll my hips rather than push back on seat
Nice bike channel. I was looking for metric to bike frame selection driven by body measurements. Body measurements (1) shoulder joint height over pelvis on floor. (2) shoulder joint height over palm on floor. (3) pelvis to ankle base (inseams?) Application example : road, gravel, tour, endurance, speed Bike frame based on body and application(s) (4) top bar length (5) top bracket length (6) top bracket over bottom bracket height. Will that brings buyer closer to the right products?
I have been sliding my arione seat back and lower. Now it has reached as far back as it could go. Also shoe cleats are as far back(midle of foot) as they can go. Seat tube angle is 74 and normal setback seat post. It feels all good, but the thumbs start to hurt on muddy gravel road when pushing hard(cyclocross bike). It's not hurting like when there's too much weight on hands, but like when you squeeze a object between your thumb and index finger for prolonged time.. holding from something. I think it's because the weight distribution is aft and handlebar too far. So now I rise handlebar by a cm to see what happens. I hope I can have better grip around hods like this, because can reach a bit better. Then I try shorter stem (90mm instead of 100) and then maybe I will exercise the muscle of thumbs maybe.. I like the seat being more aft, because this way it's lower. Makes it easier to mount and dismount to bike.. Because the arione saddle has quite long area where to sit, I think the extreme aft position isn't so much issue.. did not feel any discomfort from saddle position on 3 hour ride.. Just that I think the reach to hoods is a bit too far. ^_^
Is a custom bike fit a must? I spent quite a bit on my road bike and was wanting to get one to make sure I’m getting the most out of my bike and me. When I bought my bike I was just asked to set on it and they made the adjustments off of look. I trust my bike shop 100%, and I’m decently comfortable on it. But when I ride I like to ride long distance.
I have a few custom framesets. I'm six feet three inches tall so most stock frames are too small for me. When sized properly there's nothing like a custom bike build. I have custom steel and titanium framesets. Modern steel tubing can be very light and gives a very comfortable ride.
My best bike got stolen, it wasnt expensive but it fit me perfect, riding that bike was like sitting in an armchair, my hands felt weightless and my backside too, I've been trying to recreate that feel but it seems impossible with modern bikes.
Gotta record that perfect fit before they get stolen! What's a 55 frame in one brand is sure different in another. Height to the floor from saddle, distance from saddle nose to center of bottom bracket, height of bottom bracket from floor, height of bars to floor. Distance from nose of saddle to bars. You get that right with same bars and brake levers and you're really close.
This is the problem with buying bikes on a budget. I just bought a used single speed bike with a 58cm frame that my local shop said 'fit' me. First test ride and the reach felt way too long so they replaced the stem from 105mm to 60mm... The reach was better, but not great, so they slid the seat forward a few cm... Reach was decent, but the drop was too much for me. Bars are already at the top of the post with spacers underneath, so I dropped the seat a few cm.... Next step they said would be to go back to a 90mm stem but angled around 30deg... This checks all your boxes for what NOT to do to avoid a compromised fit. But, what options do I have? When you walk into a shop with $300 for a bike, this is what you get... I'm going to have to make it work. My thoughts? - New saddle (the current one is torn and VERY uncomfortable, though the comfort issue could also be from overall bike fit. So might do this last) - Angled stem (90mm at 30deg; 100mm at 40deg) - Raise the seat so my knee extension is corrected - Raised seat means potentially raising the bars with a post riser/extender... For reference I'm 6'0 and 195lbs. Obviously if I had $3,000 for a bike I would get custom fit and not have to deal with these issues. But the reality of the situation is I need to work within my means. And that, in turn, leads to these compromises being made for a "better" fit.
I find myself easier to spin at higher cadence when I have the saddle pushed all the way to the front. Also, I felt more stable and corner with more confidence. It is a mountain bicycle. Also I just realise today that, the chaffing on the left inner thigh is gone when I seat with more pressure on my right bum. I realise I have a bigger ball on the left. I am wondering maybe it needs some space. I will experiment with actually move the nose of the saddle to point right a little. Does that sounds okay?
Hi John, thanks for the good video. I‘m unsure about my saddle position, respectively how to use the KOPS rule. Taking the front of my kneecap as the reference I end up way further back than taking the centre of my knee joint. In that case my saddle ends up slid entirely forward. I have two stems (10 and 11 cm) to adjust the reach. So, what would you recommend?
I was wondering if you could help me, my seat is all the way back and I have a 100 mm stem. I want to to get a smaller stem so my handling improves but my seat is maxed out. Should I get a seat post with set back? Or does this compromise the bike balance and design? Thanks
The other day I tilted my saddle nose down a bit. After a week of hard riding I now have SI joint pain in my lower back. Could tipping the saddle nose down cause that?
Can agree on the 60mm stem. Handling gets very twitchy, even at high speeds. Would be better for me to run 60mm but the handling is just crap. 80mm handles much better.
