DODGE CARAVAN CRANK NO START | EASY COMPLETE FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT TROUBLESHOOTING | Basic Tools 

Thanks! I tried my best)

Thanks for that, that helps

Thanks Ben:) I am glad I can share some useful info with other!

Thanks, buddy! Let me know if you have any questions, I would like to help you!

More to come! Thanks for your kind feedback Rubster Von Smutzenburg!

Glad it was helpful, Scott!

Glad it was helpful!] brother! Thanks for your feedback TheOtiswood!

More to come!

Thanks for sharing your experience, Sophiegristom.

Awesome Scooter12368! I am glad this simple video helped you out. Well, I tried my best to make the video easy to understand, short as possible and long as necessary) Thanks for you kind feedback!

Glad it was helpful!

You bet!

Thanks 👍 Delshawn!

Hey Nathan! I am glad it helped you out. Much appreciated your feedback! I tried my best) Take care brotha!

I am glad, I can help you a bit by sharing this video. Let me know if you have any questions. I will try to get back to you soon as I can. Cheers!

I will recommend to check continuity straight at the pump as well. Try to clean connector at the pump make sure you don't have any voltage drop at the fuel pump. I have another video, pretty good shown in details how to do electrical tests at the pump on my Nissan Titan. Do voltage drop test at the pump when circuit is loaded to avoid any incorrect readings. It might help you out. NISSAN TITAN BOGS DOWN? FUEL PUMP ELECTRICAL TESTS | Nissan Titan 2004-2015 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JG6Y2XGWdak.html You can use magnet or just use alligator clip to connect you test light to known good ground.

Thanks Ronald!

Hey Edward! Sorry for my late reply. Have you done your repair already? Let me know. I will try to get back to you. Cheers!

Somebody gave me a 2009 Avio for a hundred dollars. It is a pretty little car with no dents and no rust silver just like my van. And only 80000 miles. 1 owner of beautiful car. A friend of mine sold it to me. I don't think I'll ever buy another Dodge Caravan. The wiring is just in a bad place. Thanks for your time and input. Love your videos and your responses are beautiful. Take care God bless stay safe period and always use jack stands

Hey Edward! Chevrolet Aveo is nice reliable car, I like them GM sold millions of them on all continents) I am glad for you! Make sure to check condition of the timing belt, known to fail prematurely. Replace timing belt kit if it wasn't done before. They don't last more than 80K miles. Check idler -pulley, very common problem on them. Aveo fuel pump fails around 80-100K km, if you experience any problems with fuel pressure, most likely pump is on its way out. Let me know if you have any questions. God bless you brother.

@@PistonShack you really know how to cheer a guy up! How much do timing belt kits fuel pumps, and idler pulleys cost? I'm running a limited Income Life! Thanks, videos from you and other people like you, I can take things apart and put them together pretty good but it's parts cost I fear. Thanks for the update. It runs beautifully. It made a lifter sound when I first started it for about 3 minutes. I haven't reved it up I'm just letting it idle a bit first. I'll run it again in another day and drive it home. Been parked under a tree in the Florida Keys for a couple of years and the doors are stuck shut from tree sap! This is a new one on me. I used to be able to pull an engine and transmission out of a 66 Chevy Impala and put it back in and four or five hours, alone in an alley in the snow. The good old days.

I would check for any fuel and evap leaks first. If you don't have prime, if you have control, power and ground at the pump mostly pump is done. Did you do tests at the pump?

Hey Ryan! I so sorry to hear that. Life can be really difficult. Yeh, definitely do the testing first before replacing any components. Do you have security light staying on after key is in on position? Cutting access hole is not that difficult, my biggest concern not to cut accidentally wiring harness or any lines. Ford Focus owner cut access hole to get to the pump out all the time due to complicated tank removal. I can take a look under my Caravan to locate the pump where I would cut if I do the pump replacement without removing the tank. If you can get someone to help to remove the tank for you, pump module removal and installation is pretty straight forward. Let me know how is your repair? Take care Ryan. Thanks for subscribing!

​@@PistonShack Hey there it's me again and still dealing with my 06 Grand Caravan with Stow N Go not starting. I am going to call you what my van needs, Dr. Piston, Dr. Shack, but probably Doc. My van could really use a surgeon but I'll stick with the help I can get by writing my favorite Doctor😁 Anyway.... I got sidetracked from my van because my wife went out and bought a car, which is smart because of gas prices But... She bought an 03 VW Jetta 2.0 with 238,000 miles on it, she told me she was going to look at it and wanted me to come with her but I was in too much pain on that day. I told her to call me with any questions or concerns she might have with it before she bought it. She called me a few hours after she left and said "Guess What?" and I knew the answer was she bought it before she told me she did. She got it for $1500 and I asked her how the car was, she replied that it was quick and cute, tinted windows and a sunroof, she loved it! Of course I said "And?" Her next words exactly were "there's a few lights on the dash" Of course there was...why not buy a car that I have to fix right away? No big deal that I was already working on my van but cool... I think there were 6 lights on the dash....Check engine symbol, ABS constantly flickering, Air bag symbol, Brake pads worn symbol, Blinking brake light, oil light, and temp light...so there was 7 lights on. The coolant resevoir was a little low so I filled it and the temp light went off. I checked the dipstick and it was bone dry, I told her to get some oil and she did the next day. I checked it after she got home and it was dry, she had bought a 5 Quart jug and when I pulled it out of the trunk there was 2 quarts gone, I put in another 2 and it didn't hit the dipstick so I put in the rest and it was still dry! I thought maybe it's the wrong stick, but checked the owners manual and it said 4.4 quarts to fill, so I figured I'd do an oil and filter change the next day since it was late and dark already. Next day drove it to Walmart and I could tell it was in "Limp Mode" already cuz I couldn't go faster than 65 and the RPMs stopped at 3100. So I did the oil change and found out the filter had a huge hole in it. Finished that and the oil light went off. (Forgot to mention that right when I first saw the car I got a sick feeling...The car is a grayish green but the hood was a flat black, a lot of the grill and bumper was cracked, and the guard for under the engine was completely gone...Obviously head on collision with someone or thing...Crap! Oh well) I think the ABS light is a couple wires behind drivers side front tire that go to nothing currently, I can barely hear a chirp by the front passenger tire, Worn pads light I think are for the front, She bought pads for all and rotors for front, Haven't put those on yet cuz I'll return those and use that money to buy parts that will keep it running first. Blinking brake light, I believe may be due to the fact there is no emergency brake, If you pull it, it goes all the way up with no resistance. Air bag light was either never cleared after the accident or someone rewired it wrong when they rigged the front end back together. The engine light however is still on... OBDII codes (I think there were 9 originally) 4 of them were ignition coil something or other coils A,B,C, and D. 1 was small Evap leak, Probably cuz there was no gas cap just a rag stuffed in the hole. That code went away for a little bit but now I have an large EVAP leak, not dealing with that now, Had misfire 4th cylinder for a while but I cleared it and it's still gone. Something about the purge valve...haven't touched might have went away, something about coolant system, and secondary air intake. Popped the hood popped off the filter which had rust coloring on it and underneath the filter was coated with a rust dust. I removed everything to the throttle body (cleaned that and MAF sensor) and removed everything to the secondary air intake motor. Popped off the hose on the top and looked down in to rusty water inside the air intake. Decided to remove that to dump the water at least, dry it out and hook it up to 12 volts, it doesn't make a sound, however I have faith that I can pull it apart and rebuild it, not sure how long it will last. I go to remove it and the whole thing is zip tied into place, It kind of looks like the starter has a few ties around it too and a bunch of other misc. damage that she didn't notice on the test drive. Like only 1 wiper, the other one snapped at the threads, I just threw some J-B Weld on it this morning with my fingers crossed. Whole new wiper assembly is only 30 bucks, the power locks have a mind of their own and the windows sometimes, The right back plate light was out, I went to replace it and while removing the 1st screw with very little pressure, the light got shoved up into the trunk lid, I gotta plenty of stuff to rig that up but we will see if I can get all lights cleared and get it out of Limp Mode 1st...ahhhh Ok Doc, not really sure what you know about the VW 2.0 motors but I'm getting back to the van. I live in an apartment building so I need her fixed or need to scrap her like tomorrow! Because I took so much time off I started over at the beginning and here are my results in the order you did them in the video. Banged the tank with someone else turning key=nothing Ether in the throttle body, turned over ran and died=got spark and crank but no fuel Checked the fuel pump fuse with test light=OK Swapped relays can hear them clicking after ignition turned=they all work also checked ASO relay and it works Test light pin 87 to neg. terminal=light on Checked continuity from pin 30 to neg. terminal=Nothing 0.L No Ohm reading so I'm guessing that's a closed circuit? Unfortunately you said nothing about the next step if it's a closed circuit because you got a reading of 200+ Ohms. Tried both probes on battery Neg. like you did and for a split second I get 13 something on the multimeter and then it goes to all 0's???? Next was test light from 86 to to pos. terminal and turn key=light goes on. And then test light from 85 to pos. terminal=no light but I did hear a relay kicking, I felt around and did it a few more times to find out it was the ASO Relay making the noise???? I jacked the back end as high as i could, threw 2 jack stands under, lowered the jack, got some wood to stack the jack on and lift higher until I could fit my metal ramps under the tires. I'm guessing your video is not a stow and go van cuz it looked like you were able to get to the wires leading to the fuel pump pretty easy without having to drop it first, I cannot reach any of the wires from underneath without having to lower the tank so I stopped there at 2 something in the morning last night so I could write my Dr. and hopefully you have a remedy for me or something else to test 1st before cutting a hole. I also unplugged everything from PCM box and cleaned all connections, and came across a lone plug that I have no idea what it's for. I measured out to where I think the pump is by the indent on the bottom of gas tank, I think it's about 23 inches from the Drivers side rear wheel well toward the passenger side or 33 1/2 inches from edge of open drivers side slider, and 58 inches from the edge of back bumper towards front of van. I took some pics but unfortunately can't add pics to this comment (More like a story) Doctor Doctor give me the news I got a bad case of the Caravan blues Help Me Please!!!! Thank you so much Doc. Ryan

Hey Vincent! Ok, I see. First check connector pin fitment. You have few secs prime, after that power drops to zero. Most likely your pump module has mechanical issue, strainer screen plugged up or open electrical circuit at the module. I would Pull pump out and bench tested. 99% your pump is worn out. Let me know how is your repair!

@@PistonShack so It was fuel pump problem after all. I contacted a local electrician go check and confirmed. But he is a wicked one I should say. He actually didn't buy the exact fuel pump I requested him to buy. He can with a Toyota fuel pump (although I wanted him to buy complete). It only worked for two days and broke again. He didn't accept the fact that the fuel pump was bad, he tempered with the injector 6 and he seems to have bleached it somehow, now the current flowing to the injector 6 is lower than the rest. So I have a code P0206. With further check the Injector driver is short of voltage. Which means I will have to replace the PCM

Do you hear fuel pump prime when turn key ON?

@@PistonShack From past experiences, I knew the pump was quite. I did listen for it from the driver’s seat & I didn’t hear it but, what I did hear was loud ticking coming from the fuel pump relay, from under the hood. After playing the relay switching game and having no success, I cleaned the prongs on the fuel pump relay and “viola!” it started! The k.I.s.s method should always be applied first and your video helped remind me of that. Thanks for responding & for the video, I may not have cleaned the relay without your suggestion! Good Health!

Yup, classi old school way!

I would find known good ground first ( scrape all rust and dirt down to bare metal to connect ground lead) to test 12 v power to the pump. Make sure your test lead actually makes connection with a pin. To me it looks like your probe copper wire didn't penetrate connector weather seal to make contact with a pin. I usually double check all test connection before making any conclusions. Unplug pump connector and check for power and ground not under the load. If 12 v power and good ground at the pump, most likely pump is open or shorted.

Check ASD relay (automatic shut down relay) power to main systems. Known issue on Dodge.

There's no inline filter on 2001-2007 Dodge Caravan. Chrysler only used fuel strainer to filter the fuel at the pump.

@@PistonShack thank you

My pleasure!

Indeed, strongly agree with you J H!

Might as well put gas tank inside car lol

Hi Tina. Check for any lose wiring harness sections, contact points (harness to metal) and for any water intrusion at the fuel pump module as well.

@@PistonShack the dealership fixed it last yr n this yr they tried saying it wasn't the same problem cuz I was getting power to the fuel pump, so that's why they were saying it was that. The fuel pump got changed again at a different shop n it wasn't the problem. It was wiring going into the fuel pump. So these wires in a harness isn't protected very well hu? They can get hot or wet ( both) why when they made this stupid van wouldn't of they protect the wires better? It makes ya so mad to think about it. It's like a tickimg time bomb, just waiting for next yr's fix (god I hope not)

This is model 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 3.3L v6

Hey William. Do you have fuel pump priming sound every time key turned on? Could be the number of things. Do you have security light on when engine shuts off?

@@PistonShack I have a check engine light on. But, that's been on for months. Has a fresh oil change. I'm stumped. And I believe I hear the fuel pump coming on. Hard to tell when there is a lot of noise around.

Hey brother! Honestly, I don't remember exactly where I got this one, it was a long time ago. Do you need it?

@@PistonShack you did a pretty detailed presentation. Just curious. Thanks for the quick reply brother!

@@PistonShack hi mate. I need diagrams desperately. Mine is 2002 Chrysler but I guess it’s all the same. Would really appreciate some schematics. Mine sounds like it’s priming just fine though. But it sounds exactly the same as this one while cranking…

Good point. Thanks for the comment.

Hey Joe! How do you know that's not a starter issue? I would measure loaded starter circuit (when you crank) voltage drop at the starter main pin, then check starter ground the same way. Let me know how many volts drip do you have. Cheers!

@@PistonShack ok thanks. I will take that into account. I did have both the battery and starter checked, and was told it’s not the starter or battery… but we will see..thanks again..👍🏽

You are welcome! Let me know if you have any questions.

@@PistonShack took it in for an oil change today and the mechanic and I brainstormed some of the possibilities. One thing we did is clean the ground wire going to the transmission. This has been another issue apparently with the no crank no start. Now time will tell to see if it acts up again. I also asked him about the neutral safety switch. He does not think it’s the switch because he told me that if that switch is done then there is no starting it at all. So I will see how it goes with cleaning that ground wire..🤷‍♂️🧐

Not a fuel pump issue

Open circuit pin 30.... brand new fuel pump

Which year is your Caravan?

Did you put a new pump already?