In this video, I will show you how I fixed my 1992 Dodge Dakota not starting. It was cranking strong so I thought it was either a fuel or no spark problem. It ended up being a bad fuel pump relay.
Typed in "Dakota turns over but won't start" This relay was EXACTLY my problem. I am not a mechanic and this simple $20 fix saved me a tow and diagnostic charge. THANK YOU for this post!!!!!!
Can't tell you how much this saved me. The first time i tried this it didn't help, and couldn't hear the pump running. later i tried to see if i was getting power to the relay, and switched out the relays again. I then checked the fuel pressure valve next to the carb. Gas was leaking out, and then tried starting it. Started right up. Thanks man, i feel like i owe you. :)
Hey, thanks for the video, guy that sold me his 1992 Dodge Dakota said it needed a new battery and starter, I got a new battery, replaced the ends of the corroded battery cables and got it from non cranking to cranking, then I put some gas in it, watched some other videos to try and figure out what the problem could be. After I watched yours, I went and started swapping around relays and had the same thing happen, except I didn't get it running until I swapped the Fuel Pump Relay with the Starter Relay, then it started! Again, thanks for this video with both our's very simple fix!
Travis Root Hey I am glad my video helped you out. I myself had another problem similar to what you are talking about where I would turn the key and get nothing at all and I would keep trying the key and after about the 3-5th time of trying, it would crank right up. So in addition to cleaning up your battery cables and terminals you may want to clean up your starter terminals and especially clean up the solenoid contact plate. My starter was acting up and instead of buying a new one I just cleaned up the terminals, solenoid plate and contact points, and my truck starts like a champ ever since doing that. Over time corrosion on the terminals and mostly pitting on the contacts and plate caused from arcing will keep a starter from working correctly. So if it acts up again you may want to check out my video on how to fix a starter. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1AQplFyWt9M.html Anyway thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Thank you for the advice, AJ. Along side cleaning the interior, I've also been cleaning the engine bay, other exposed parts, oil pan and whatever else I come across with caked on grease and dirt.
Travis Root Hey you are welcome. Oh man if your 92 Dakota is like mine you are gonna be busy cleaning and scrubbing for quite some time. Well best of luck to you on your truck, and thanks for the comments and have a good day
This video saved me a lot of money, time and hard work! I was getting ready to replace the fuel pump by cutting an opening over the gas tank. I had watched another video about the fuel pump relay, and the check was if it made a click sound when the key was turned on that it was good, well my relay did the click sound and was BAD, I replaced it with the a/c clutch relay and my truck started right up!!! Thank You!!!
My boyfriend has a 1998 dodge dakota v8 he is experiencing the same problem we tested the battery it was good Its better to think of the smaller problems then thinking it's something bigger Watching this video gave me idea what it could possibly be I really appreciate it thanks
My '98 Durango 5.2 4x4 has been down for several weeks now, being disabled like I am I haven't had all the time to look into this, I just went downstairs and tried this and BAM she fires back to life, good video, thanks
Wow! Thank you for your video (first one I came across for dodge dakota, crank no start). Nailed it! I live out in the boonies and you just saved me a lot of time, money and anguish! Got into town/parts store using the AC clutch relay! Thanks again. Gus
Yes, CHECK THEM FUSE'S. And purchase the expensive ones that when they blow it lights up red like a flashlight. I recently was stranded to across the street from AutoZone this video. Got me back on the road, $5.93 got me back on the road
Working on a 1997 Dakota with multiple issues, one was an intermittent no crank condition. I noticed that the reverse lights didn't come on either so I checked underneath the car to find someone had tried to bypass the neutral safety switch by twisting some wires together. They had cut off and discarded the factory connector. I assumed the switch was bad but it wasn't the problem. I reconnected the wires to the switch in the proper order and tested. I got my reverse lights back but the truck still wouldn't start in park, so I tried neutral. It started in neutral so I knew it was a cable adjustment issue. Turns out it was just a loose connection at the cable ball link. I just snapped it back on and now everything works normally.
+BRENTONESS gray (Deadpool) Hey I am glad I helped your dad out. No I am not a master mechanic, in fact I only work on my own vehicles or my families vehicles when they need help. I do have a degree in automotive technology and I have passed a few ASE exams so I do know a thing or two about working on cars but I am far from a master tech. Anyway thanks for the comment and have a good day.
@@terryjackson9293 you can change your cam and your crank sensor both for like 40 bucks depending on where you buy them from if you're doing it yourself. Without being around the vehicle there's no way for me to say what it is or isn't. Does it try to start at all?
This makes me wonder if this is the fix to my problem. My 2001 Dakota sport won’t start sometimes. We’ve found that disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it is a quick “fix”. We’ve checked what we can ourselves.. fuel pump, injectors, battery etc. We got tired of not being able to figure it out and we took it to get diagnosed. They did everything we did of course and as they were checking wires the got to the starter and the starter was loose (we need to fix the threading) so after they tightened it they went to start it and of course she fired up… because they had to disconnect the battery. We paid for it (with the feeling it wasn’t fixed but they wouldn’t listen) took it home and two days later wouldn’t start. We’re so lost.. no engine codes or anything either.
Lots of good information here, and in the comments (so many thanks for that). I've read through it all and will be going to see if I can use it to solve the problem with my '92 Dodge B250 (Camper Van) that has a 318 V8. It (usually) starts the first time, but then will often not restart (just spins over). It's also developed a problem where sometimes the starter just clicks (I suspect that I may have stressed out the starter with all the spinning over trying to get it to re-start). I had thought that perhaps it was the fuel filter, but it sounds like there are other things I should check before I change that (the fuel pump and auto-stop (I think it was) relays, and clean up the starter solenoid (do you have to remove the starter to do this?). These problems seem to have come on after being parked for a few months in the depths of winter. Intermittent problems are the worst to troubleshoot.
Yeah I agree with you on the intermittent problems being the worst to troubleshoot for sure. To me it sounds like your starter solenoid my be starting to go out, that could be your clicking problem. However a starter that clicks like that can be caused by a bad battery, bad battery cables, or the starter it self. The best video I have found on youtube that explains the best way to test out a starter circuit can be found at this link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XhRPLgH6uZg.html Dan really explains how to check out your starter circuit for what is wrong. Also you asked about cleaning up the starter solenoid, when I did mine I pulled the starter and worked on my kitchen table I have a video link showing me redo my starter solenoid it was just pitted and a little corroded, I was able to clean mine right up and get it working again and that was over two years ago. Here is the link ru-vid.com?o=U&video_id=1AQplFyWt9M Now when dealing with no start problems you are typing dealing with two types one being a no crank no start which is usually a problem with ignition, battery, cables, or starter, or possibly a security starter imobilizer. So if you have that issue you might want to double check those circuits. Now if you are having a crank no start another words your vehicle is trying to spin over and start but it is not. Then most of the time you will have an ignition problem (no spark) Look up scanner danner videos on how to check spark with a cheap simple test light. Or you have a fuel delivery problem (fuel pump issues) or you have fuel injector issues which might be asd relay or power or ground problems. Check fuel pressure with gauge to see if you have fuel pressure, if no pressure disconnect vac breaker booster line and spray a combustible fluid into the intake either propane, carb cleaner, brake fluid, or starter fluid in the vacuum line and try to start the vehicle if it starts that points to a fuel delivery problem. If you have fuel pressure check fuel injector pulse (you can use a noid light or screwdriver to listen for injector clicking) Lastly if you have spark, fuel, and injector pulse, check for engine compression. There are several videos on youtube for how to do that. Those are the basics needed for a vehicle to run spark, fuel, ignition, and compression. Oh course after running those tests you can look at a few other things but those are a great place to start. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day and good luck to you.
I don't have that one but my truck still fires up but I have to jump it off on a different relay because that relay don't have the wires for that spot for some reason
My trucks been running fine no problems parked it overnight is tried to warm up a truck this morning and no start but I cannot hear my fuel pump start as if you put it into on position
I have a dodge dakota, 1993 V-6 automatic, first I was going to my place of work when my truck just stop no power. I did push it to the side of the road when i was home I check why it wound start, there is no fire on my plug, there is gas, I change my coil, distubetor /roter, it just crank but didnt start, now I have my brother-in-law sent me a rebuilt computer still not firing. I did check and turn it to TCD still no fire on the spark plug.
jose cepeda Ok verify power both ground and power to your ignition coil. If I remember the power to the coil comes from fuse 9 then through the ASD (autoshutdown relay). So if no power to the coil check those things. I think the ignition coil gets its pulsed ground signal from the PCM, which is a blk/gry wire coming from terminal 19 on the PCM. However if the computer does not recieve a crankshaft and camshaft position signal the computer will not fire the coil. At least I think that is how it works, but I could be wrong. However I would check power, ground, and signal on both the cam and crank position sensor. I think the cam signal is a tan/yel wire going to terminal 44 on the pcm, and I think the crank signal is a gry/blk wire going to terminal 24 on the pcm. Also when you say there is gas what did you check for that, did you check fuel pressure to the rail or did you verify an injector was actually firing (by listening with a stethoscope or checking the injector for power and a pulsed ground). The reason I ask is because the ASD relay pretty much sends power to your injectors, coil, tps, cam position, crank position, and other sensors. Also the pcm turns on the fuel pump relay and ASD relay at the same time, so one relay could be working and the other might not be. Anyway before swapping a computer I would check to make sure you are getting cam and crank signals to the PCM. Well good luck on finding your problem, and I hope this info helps you out. Also I have a PDF schematic of the engine wiring send me your email if you need it.
Relay didn't fix my 91. It use to start up regularly with intermittent times of 'crank no start'. Now it seems to finally be stuck in the crank no start forevermore. Maybe not, maybe i'll turn the key today and it will start but i'm thinking that this time, It's dead Jim. Has the ecu gone out? I did hose down the ecm connection with electrical cleaner. The only sensor i have not replaced is the coolant sensor. would this sensor account for a crank no start issue? Is there a ground bad? Can someone say the locations of the grounding points for this truck please? thanks guys
Well sorry to say it could be a lot of reasons. Do you have an engine light on or any codes present in your vehicle? I have a video on getting codes with out a scan tool, which this trick usually works on Dodge and Chrysler vehicles ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nTdLwfMhEDI.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sFmBn_P2UHw.html Anyway, just off the top of my head I would probably check fuel delivery (make sure your fuel pump is putting out pressure and volume). I would check ignition system for a good strong spark. You might want to check exhaust back pressure, if you have a plugged exhaust car will usually start and as you drive the pressure builds up and kills the engine or runs very badly. It could be an electrical issue perhaps Auto Shut Down (ASD) Relay, if I recall that controls power to ignition and fuel injectors, at least on earlier models it did. The trouble is it could be so many things and the goal is to find out what you are missing. For a gasoline car to run you need compression, ignition (timed spark), fuel (correct air fuel ratio), and the engine has to be able to breathe. An engine is like a big air pump, it has to be able to get air in and out (air intake and exhaust). Well this just some basic things to check for, I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Len S Yeah I sure did I tested it with an ohm meter and it had an open in the coil winding. Thanks for asking I didnt even realize that I didnt explain what was wrong with the relay in the video. I added a note in the video and link to how to test a relay. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Hey I have a 1991 Dodge Dakota that was having a fuel injectors problem after I changed out the injectors I seen a spark by my Carburetor and now it won't crank anything will help
My dodge dakota 99 crannks but wont star. I disconnected the batery and it worked good for a while, but now is doing it again . o would appreciate your help
hello I enjoy your video thanks for sharing it, may you please try to help me with my dodge durango 5.9 2002 it stopped on me and I was told that I needed a new fuel pump I got that changed the car wouldn't start at all it was clicking like the battery wasnt charged so I got the battery charged now it cranks but will not start and I'm getting g a error code on the car that says error p done... have any ideas on something I might need to check I changed the rotor cap and pickup coil on the car the guy that fixed my car have me wondering if the fuel pump is on right and if it's not will it even make some noise or will it remain with a regular start noise I also had them to check the fuel pump pressure under the hood and some squirted out almost to the top of the hood so he tells me it's put on right is that true please help me
Well it sounds like you have a crank no start condition. First thing I would try is to turn the ignition on/off/on 3-5 times in a row. A lot of Dodge/Chrysler vehicles will display DTC codes on the instrument cluster/odometer, if you have codes stored on the vehicle, sometimes codes can help point you in the right direction. Well when I have a crank no start issue I like to start by checking 3 basic things: fuel, spark, and compression. To check fuel use a fuel pressure tester (compare readings to factory specs) If pressure is good move on to next test. If fuel pressure is not good it is time to troubleshoot the fuel system further. To check spark, I suggest using a spark tester, and check for spark. Basically you pull a plug wire, or pull out COP, and insert the spark tester and ground it, and then crank over the engine and check for spark. If spark is good move on to next test. If spark is not good, further inspection of the ignition system is required. If you have good spark and fuel that pretty much leaves compression. To check compression you need a compression tester, and tools to remove spark plugs. Well you check compression and compare to specs. Low compression will need to be further diagnosed with leak down test or other means of testing anything. Well it can be a lot of things wrong but this is usually where I start for a crank no start condition. I hope this info helps you out. Have a good day.
I put in a new fuel pump on my 94 only two years ago (beware buying cheap $49 pumps off ebay); mine didn't last. This time i bought one at autozone for 130 bucks. If you can't re-use and switch out your old pump's rollover valve then you'll pay another $26 for a new one cause, unfortunately, a new pump doesn't come with one..what?. Autozone didn't explain about this and i would have bought a new valve had i known.
(That relay switch u checked with the light) my same dodge won't start and the second hole u stuck that needle in the light not coming on so it's not working but the light came on in the 1st hole so one was working and one was not...wat do I need to do?
you need to check fuel pressure but also you can get a start up s can and sprey on the carb and if the engine start is your pump if not is electrical sparks test is next
Mine doesn’t even wanna do shit at all. Pretty sure it was my terminals to the battery. Like it absolutely doesn’t do shit when I turn the key. 1990 Dakota
i have a 2001 dodge dakota that stops fireing put new plugs plug wires dis button cap crank sen coil good batt it starts runs for 30 sec to a min then shuts down switch fuses under hood
I have never worked on a 2001 Dakota, so I am not familiar with it. If you let me know what engine you have I might be able to look up some more info on it.
david craven - i see u posted this 7 mo ago so u probably already know, but if u haven't, it might be ur ecu or computer. i just developed that problem with the same truck ('01 dakota). will attempt to fix it tomorrow 4/30/17. we'll see how it goes.
Are you suggesting that this could be the problem with an engine that runs intermittently? I have a '92 318 van that usually starts cold, but isn't restarting (a lot of the time). Sometimes quits when the load comes on. I'm going to check the relay as suggested here.
I am having a problem with the fuel pump and coil not getting any power. tried a couple things, coil is brand new and fuel pump is good. ran 12v directly to the plug on the fuel pump to check it. replaced all the relays. tried the pulse shit and still nothing. need the dakota going asap haha
+lexi sievert Well the thing that is common to both the fuel pump and the ignition coil not getting power could be the fuse (drawing shows a 20a fuse) that feeds power to both the fuel pump relay (which sends power to the fuel pump) and auto shut down relay. The autoshut down relay controls power to a bunch of shit including the fuel injectors and ignition coil.(this fuse feeds the switched side of both of the relays, not the coil side/control side) So the first thing I would do is verify power to the fuel pump relay and the auto shut down relay switch side, if no power find the fuse and verify that it is not blown. Now that fuse controls power to the switched side of the relay. If that is all good next double check the control side of the relays, the coil side of the relay. (i recommend bench testing the relays here is a video of me testing a relay it is an exact relay off my dakota) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2ghJT3LRPXw.html and check the power and ground feeds to each coil. The control side for the coils in each of the relays have a common power feed from the ignition switch (so could be a bad ignition switch if no power), the ground side of both coils is turned on by the pcm it sends a ground to both the fuel pump relay and auto shut down relay coils. So the relay coils for both relays gets its power from the ignition switch and the ground from the pcm. I woud start by double checking both power and grounds to the control side and switched side of the relays and bench test the relays. So could be bad ignition switch, no power bad fuse, bad relays, no ground side control from pcm, which could be the computer not sending the signal because of other problems (computer shutting down signal due to power or ground issues, or because of bad crank and cam signals, no rpm signal or other things that can make the computer not turn on those relays). So check the simple shit first and let me know what you find. Now the drawing I looked might not be the same as what yours is so I still need to know what year and what size engine you have to, but most model years of dakotas work this way or very similar. Well I hope this info helps you out. Also if you send me your email I can email you a schematic. Have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce my dakota is a 1994 3.9l v6 5 speed and my email is sievert.lexi@gmail.com thanks for all the details and info, I will be working more on it in the morning. email me tho
(Please if anyone can help)Can a bad asd relay or any relay cause my engine to stall and lose spark when engine reaches operating temperature??? 97 Dakota v6 3.9...I’ve replaced fuel pump,iac,tps,crank sensor,cap and rotor,cam sensor and pcv valve
I'm having a similar problem but only when my 2000 Dakota is up to temperature. When cold it starts fine. I have changed the camshaft sensor and it still does the same thing. I may try swapping out the relays. Any other suggestions?
Mine does this as well. I've changed the crankshaft position sensor, camshaft sensor (since I was doing the other, might as well), and still having the issue. Did you ever figure out why yours was doing it????
Are you saying you turn the ignition key to start the vehicle and nothing happens? Is that right? So what you have is a no crank no start condition. Really there are multiple issues that can cause the starter not to work, such as bad fuses, bad ignition switch, bad starter relay, bad park/neutral safety switch or clutch switch, bad battery, bad starter, and bad cables. Explain to me how you know the battery is good, and how you know the starter is good. What test did you do to determine this? When I work on something like this, the first thing I do is look at a wiring diagram so I know how everything should work. Then I check the battery, and make sure it is charged and the battery and starter cable connections are clean and tight. Then I usually do a few quick tests at the starter relay with a test light, just because I feel that can lead to figuring out if the problem is on the control side or the load side of the starter circuit relay. I usually pull the starter relay out and I check power and ground on the coil wires (which is the control side of the relay), and I check power on the load side of the relay. If all of that is good then I usually manually jump the relay and see if the car will start. If it does not, then I go under the car down to the starter itself and I check power to the starter solenoid, and I check power and ground at the starter. If I have good power and grounds down below and it still does not start I manually try jumping the starter solenoid, usually with a screwdriver or something like that to see if it starts.(if you do this be careful because this can be dangerous) Then if I have not figured out what the problem is by now I start doing voltage drop testing with a volt meter and checking the cables for high resistance. While cranking I check bat+ post to starter post + and look for excess voltage drop, and I do the same on the negative side check bat - to starter housing and check voltage drop while cranking. This may sound confusing for someone who has never done starter circuit voltage drop testing before, but there are lots of videos on youtube that show this test method. Well I hope this info helps you out. If you send me your email I can try to email you a copy of the wiring diagram for your 91 Dakota starting circuit, which may help you see what is going on. Well anyway thanks for the comment and have a good day, and good luck to you on figuring out your problem. Have a good day.
He said he bought new starter and new battery but it did the same think. when he put the key in the ignition an turn it the lights comes on he could turn on the headlights and it would be fine
Well sounds to me like there is an electrical problem and power is not getting down to the starter solenoid switch, or you have bad cables from the battery going to the starter. Here is a simple test you can do to check to see if the starter will work, is by doing a bypass test. You can just bypass everything with a simple homemade switch or jumper wire. Basically you have a long wire with a push button switch in the middle. You hook up one side of the switch to the starter solenoid terminal on the starter itself. (the small s terminal, with the small wire on it, not the big thick cable wire) and run the other side of the switch to the bat + terminal. Then put the ignition switch in the on position, (make sure car is in park/neutral so you dont start the car in gear and run over yourself or someone else) and then push the button and let go of the button when the car starts. If the car starts that means you do not have power getting to your starter solenoid. (that could be a lot of things causing that problem) You can check a lot of those things with a simple test light and a remote starter switch. You can go to harborfreight.com and type in remote starter switch and see what I am talking about ($10) and you can also get a test light there for around ($3) Test lights are very handy to have to troubleshoot electrical faults. Anyway here is an example of what I am talking about doing a starter bypass test with a remote starter switch. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HVqeDG7DbKA.html and another one here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GP6PbKhEzjU.html and here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gVtzeGvZAnI.html and here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TSE0fOrujW0.html Well I hope this info helps you out. Let me know if the car cranks over when trying this bypass test. Well I hope this info helps you out.
OK mine is a 1992 Dodge Dakota V6 it has a new fuel pump and we took the battery out and now the fuel pump isn't kicking on plus there's also a shutter whenever you hit the gas in first gear wondering if you could help me A new fuse did not help Nor did the relay
Well I think a good place to start is at the Relay. The relay has basically two separate circuits going two it. A control side and a load side. Basically the control side is a magnetic coil inside the relay that gets energized by the computer (computer sends a ground), and the coil creates a magnetic field and makes a set of contacts close to turn on the load side (in this case the fuel pump) I would suggest you try pulling the relay out and try checking for power and grounds using a simple test light. If I remember correctly pins 85 and 86 are the coil, and pins 30 and 87 are the movable contacts that turn on the fuel pump. I have a video that demonstrates how to test a relay ru-vid.com?o=U&video_id=2ghJT3LRPXw So with the relay pulled out and the key turned on hook up a test light to the battery negative and you should have two power feeds (1 to the coil side and one to the switch side) If you have two powers good if not you have to figure out where you are losing power. Next hook up test light to bat + and check to make sure the computer is sending a ground signal to the relay coil terminal. Also you can check the other side of the load switched side, the light should turn on but will probably be a little dim because if the circuit is complete it should be going thru the fuel pump motor to ground (it will be dim because you will have a series circuit going thru the test light and thru the motor I hope that makes sense, if light does not light you may have an open circuit in your fuel pump) You can also try bypassing the relay with a jumper wire going from pin 30 to pin 87 to see if the fuel pump kicks on. If after checking all that and the fuel pump does not kick on I would say you have to check power and grounds at the fuel pump itself, and it will be a pain to get to that connector, because it is on top of the fuel tank and hard to get to. However once you are at the fuel pump connector you can check power and grounds. If you have good power and grounds at the pump, then you need a new fuel pump, if no power or ground you got to figure out where you are losing them (broken or corroded connection). You could also try unplugging the fuel pump and running fused jumper wires from the battery to test the fuel pump directly. Well I hope this info helps you out. Also if you need a wiring diagram for the fuel pump system, send me your email and I can email it to ya. Also the shuttering in first gear could be a lot of things, that is something I would have to do a road test or hear it for myself to give you a better idea of what it is. Well good luck to you. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
Jonny Stallburg Nope my dash cluster works just fine. Is the electrical problem just isolated to your cluster or do you have no power anywhere. If you turn on your headlights are they dim? Tell me a little more info about what it does when you try to start your truck. Does it crank over and try to start or do you try to crank it and nothing happens or do you hear a click. I want to know if your problem is a crank no start or a no crank no start. Your problem could be a lot of things. If it cranks and trys to start you may have a no spark problem or no fuel problem. First thing is make sure you have a good battery? If your battery is completely dead could be parasitic drain or bad alternator. Could be a bad fuses (check all of them). Could be a bad auto shut down relay? If you hear a click or you get nothing and your battery is good it could be bad starter solenoid, neutral saftey switch, anti theft, or some other inline device preventing your starter from getting power. You can use a test light and hook up one lead to ground and one lead to the s terminal (solenoid terminal) and try to crank it over. if you get power to your solenoid (your light should light), your control side circuit is probably good, and you are looking at a problem on the load side of the starter. Also if you have power to your s terminal you can try a tap test, which is basically smack on the starter with a hammer and then go try to start it.(sounds funny but this is a real test, tap test) If you dont have power on the s terminal, you have power problem, well you can try a bypass test, which is basically using a remote starter switch (there are youtube videos about this), jumper wire, screwdriver, or something to get power from the b+ to the s terminal. Well there is a little bit of info, and a few things to check. Well I hope that helps you a little bit, but really I would need more info on what your car is doing. But the first step is check your battery and make sure it is good. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
It's obviously a bad connection or a bad ground inside the steering column does when I telescope it up and down I can get my cluster doit's obviously a bad connection or a bad ground inside the steering column does when I telescope it up and down. Just figured it out
Jonny Stallburg Well glad you found out what your problem was. I am just curious if it didnt start perhaps there was a loose connection that was messing with the ignition switch maybe. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
Ok I have a 98 dakota 5.2 v8 that belonged to my father in law he passed a couple of years ago but I remember when he bought it new anyway the truck runs great but it will crank but not start if I unhook the battery for a few minutes it will usually start but sometimes it won't for a couple of hours had it put on a computer it said low voltage on the throttle position sensor I have changed it 3 times the mechanic said it could be the throttle body got one ran great for a couple of days but started the same stuff today anybody got any ideas love the truck but wife is getting fed up
my 1997 dodge dakoto sport, 4 cyl. 2.5 ltr. stalled and then wont start, i checked coil for spark and found no spark, after putting in a new coil, distributer cap and plug wires looked pretty bad so i replaced them also i still have no spark, i replaced the crankshaft timing sensor a couple months ago when i did a clutch job. Pryor to the engine stalling and no run problem i had a problem, engine idle was way too high and sermed to increase some as the engine got warmer. the engine turnes over good & strong, what's my next move to find problem.
Ok let me know if you have 12v bat + at the ignition coil and also check 12v bat + at your fuel injectors. So let me know if you have a rock solid bat + at both ignition coil and at least one fuel injector. ( I am just making sure your ASD relay and fuse feeds are good, starting off simple) If bat + is good and solid at both locations then check the ground side (which should be controlled from pcm) Check this again at the ignition coil and at fuel injector and do these checks while the engine is cranking. If everything is plugged in while testing coil and injector you can back probe with a multimeter, or if you unplug ignition coil or injector to test make sure you use a suitable size test light to check power and grounds. (right now I just want to verify good bat + at coil and injector and to find out if the pcm is trying to turn on the coils and injectors, so we are looking for bat + and good ground control from pcm) Most likely if the pcm is trying to control the ign coil and injectors most likely sensor inputs are good, if pcm is not trying to turn on the coil and injectors then you may have a bad sensor feed, bad pcm, or broken wire somewhere. Let me know what you got on power and control feeds. I just want to start off simple and know what you have. I hope that makes sense.
I was curious if you had any DTC codes stored. I don't know if you have a scan tool or code reader to pull codes, but most dodge/Chrysler has a way to pull codes by cycling the ignition on and off 3-5 times in a row, it will either read a code on the cluster or flash a set of codes. Here are some examples of what i am talking about. This trick works on lots of Dodge and Chrysler vehicles. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nTdLwfMhEDI.html and ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sFmBn_P2UHw.html
AJ Pierce i just discovered your video on how to get the codes by cycling key on- off 3 times and will try it tomorrow and let you know happened, thank you.
Well if you dont have a b+ or 12v at the ignition coil or the fuel injectors. I would suspect a possible bad fuse (check 30amp fuse # 3, and 10amp fuse # 9) they both feed power to the ASD relay (30 amp feeds the load side, and 10 amp feeds the control side), a bad ASD relay (try swapping relays), or a possible break or open somewhere in the circuit that feeds power to the injectors and coil. You can go right to the ASD relay pull it out and use a test light clamped to a good ground (use bat - terminal) and check for 2 power feeds at the relay socket. Turn key on and test, you should have power feeds on pin 86 (+ coil side of relay) and pin 30 (load side common) (if you have power on these pins it means the fuses are good). Next switch your test light clamp to bat+ and check for a ground feed on pin 85 (- coil side relay) if you have a good ground here it means you have control and the computer is trying to turn on the ASD relay. If what I am saying is not making sense, send me your email and I can email you a wiring diagram. If you dont have power at the coil or the fuel injectors I believe your problem will be a fuse, asd relay, or open somewhere in that circuit. Well I hope this makes sense.
I have never worked on an 04 Dakota, but I looked up some schematics on this vehicle and it shows it having a Coil On Plug (COP) ignition system. I would verify you are getting B+ power to COP primary side and to the Fuel Injectors. If no power suspect possible Automatic Shutdown Relay, or power feed issue. I just want to know if it is a power feed or the control side that is preventing spark. If the power feed is good, most likely the pcm is not sending a ground control signal to cops and injectors, you might verify your cam and crank sensor circuits (both sensors are 3 wire type as far as I can tell) Check both for 5v power, ground, and signal. Check power and ground at sensor (to ensure good feed to sensor), and check the signal wire at the pcm (to ensure good feed to pcm) If you have no power to cam or crank you may have an issue with the 5v reference circuit. If no power to cam or crank, as another quick test check power at the tp sensor or the map sensor or other 5v sensor and see if you have 5v power, and ground. (this is just a quick check to see if you have a 5v ref issue) If no good 5v reference then check all power and grounds to the pcm, and there are quite a few some are fused and some are ignition switched. Here are a few things to check let me know what you find out, and I can perhaps tell you a few more things to check. Also just curious why did you replace the engine in the first place? Also do you have access to wiring diagrams for this vehicle, if not try bbb industries do a google search and click on tsb and wiring diagrams, and it will give you free access to wiring diagrams and tsb info which is handy to have. It will ask you for personal info but you can put it your info or just make up something and it will still give you access. Well I hope this info helps you out, good luck.
+Barbara Walker Could be a lot of things. bad thermostat, bad fan, dirty or bad coolant, bad radiator cap, plugged radiator, dirty radiator, bad water pump, If the coolant system has a leak (external or internal) it can't hold pressure and that can lower the boiling point of the system. If the coolant system is old and acidic it can cause galvanic activity and corrosion. I would say the cheapest way to go would be flush the coolant system, clean out the radiator fins with water (if really dirty use coil cleaner) change the thermostat, use new coolant, and then have the coolant system pressure tested to see if it can hold pressure. If it cant hold pressure find out where it is leaking at and fix it. Those are some simple things to try, but worst case could be a bad head gasket, warped cylinder head, warped block, plugged oil galley (anything wrong with the oil lubricating system makes the engine super hot). Plugged egr system can make the engine run hot, If the engine is running lean that can make the engine overheat, and I am sure there might be a few other things that can cause the engine to get hot, but this info should help you get started. Do you have any codes stored? I am not sure if this ignition trick works on a 1987 but it did work on my 1992. Here is a link to a video I made that shows how to get codes without a scan tool. Not sure if it will work on your year but you can try. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nTdLwfMhEDI.html I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for the comment, have a good day, and good luck.
+lexi sievert I use my local library. I live in Independence, MO so I use Mid Continent Public Library. I go to this website www.mymcpl.org/online-information/research-databases/Automotive%20and%20Small%20Engines You just have to have a free library card and you type in your card number and it gives you access to a research database (whole lot of good info) I click on the automotive section where I can access chilton library, Auto Repair Reference Center, and small engine info. Now I can get those from my home computer, but my library also has Mitchell (which is what a lot of shops use) but I have to actually go to the library itself to log into that program. Another place I go to for looking up car info is autozone.com if you sign up for an account (create a log in account it is free) you can usually access good repair help specific to your vehicle you type in (year, make, model), so that is handy. I also use www.eautorepair.net but that is a paid subscription for around $25 per year per. Sometimes you can also just try searching google for what you are looking for and sometimes you get lucky, but my favorite is the free library resources. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
So I tried this nothing. Checked spark all good. Checked power all good. Checked air good. Fuel bump is good and I'm getting gas up in the fuel rail. But nothing in the throttle body. I'm at a loss here. Any advice anybody?
MrXfinityguy Well not getting fuel is a perfect example of a crank no start condition. Typically when you have a crank no start condition you are usually missing fuel or spark. In this case it was missing fuel, because of a faulty relay. So why were you looking up my video, do you have a Dodge Dakota with a crank no start condition or another vehicle with a crank no start problem? Well anyway thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+EurynomeStolas Yes it is very common for a relay to go bad because it is an electro-mechanical device that has to move a set of contacts every time it gets powered on. So yes relays are a common thing to go bad, but fuel pumps also go bad all the time to. I suggest you try using a fuel pressure gauge to see if your fuel pump is building pressure. If no pressure check for power at the fuel pump connector (sometimes it can be a real pain in the butt to reach). If you disconnect the pump to test power dont use a meter use a test light to check if you use a meter back probe the connector with the pump plugged in. You can test the fuel pump by hooking up jumper wires from the battery (good power and ground) to the fuel pump to test the fuel pump.(if the fuel pump works you have a power feed problem (fuse, relay, bad wiring). If the pump doesnt work, it is a bad fuel pump. Two simple quick test you can try is 1. spray some starter fluid into the intake or you can try propane, if the car starts up using an outside fuel source that confirms a fuel delivery problem. 2. You can try smacking on the bottom of the fuel tank with your fist or use a rubber mallet while. The purpose of this is to move the fuel pump a little bit so that the pumps brush contacts might make good contact and maybe start the pump (when fuel pumps go bad it is usually from worn out motor brushes). This is not a fix but just a technique to use to determine if a motor is bad. It is called the tap test, which you can use on plenty of electrical devices, If it is not working and then you tap on it and it starts working well you need to replace the device (works on relays, solenoids, motors, whole bunch of stuff) Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+Chris Reyes An engine that is cranking over good (has a good strong battery) and trying to start but cant. Usually has lost either spark, fuel, or compression. You just have to test these things. To test for spark you use a cheap tool called a spark tester (usually a very simple test to do, there are many videos on how to do this) If you have spark move on. If you dont have spark then something in your ignition system is messed up (bad plug, bad wire, bad coil, bad module, etc) To check fuel you usually hook up a fuel pressure gauge to a test port and check pressure and compare to manufactures spec (if you have pressure at idle also check pressure under engine load by test driving or doing snap throttle testing you want to make sure the pressure hangs in there when the engine is under load if the fuel pressure drops while loading the engine you have a fuel delivery problem) (bad pump, clogged fuel filter, clogged injectors, or bad fuel) (there are lots of videos on youtube on basic fuel system testing with a pressure gauge) Last if you have good spark and good fuel you should check for compression (lots of videos on how to do this) but to check for compression you basically remove all the spark plugs, disable the fuel system (pull relay or fuse), disable the ignition system, and then screw in a compression gauge into the spark plug cylinder hole and crank your engine over while holding the throttle open and check the guage and compare to manufactures specs. If you have low compression there is something causing the cylinder to not be able to build pressure. (bad rings, bad valves, bad head gasket, hole in piston or cylinder). Bottom line is if your car cranks over and tries to start, but does not I suggest you start with the easy things check spark, check fuel, and check compression. If you suspect a fuel regulator there are a few different types, but usually the ones that go bad have a vacuum hose attached to the top of them and what usually happens is the diaphragm inside breaks and causes a fuel leak, and fuel gets sucked back into the intake which could cause flooding and other issues. You can usually check those type of regulators by removing the vacuum hose and if you see any fuel or smell any fuel you know it is bad. Also you can check it by using a hand held vacuum pump and put a vacuum on the regulator and see if it holds. If it leaks down you know it is a bad. (there are a lot of videos on youtube on how to test a fuel regulator). Well I hope all this info helps you out, and I hope you can get your vehicle started. Well thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce If you suspect a fuel delivery problem when you turn your ignition key on you should be able to hear your fuel pump kick on for about 2 seconds. If you dont hear that happen you most likely have a fuel pump issue. You can try doing that a few times to listen for it kick on for the initial prime. Another simple test to try is have somebody try to start the vehicle (make sure it is in park with ebrake on) and while it is cranking lay under the fuel tank and smack on the fuel tank with your fist or rubber mallet. If the car cranks right up while you beat on the tank it means your fuel pump needs replaced. (the electrical contact brushes on fuel pumps go bad and when you beat on the tank they make contact and the fuel pump might work temporarily) Also if you have a fuel delivery problem you can try spraying starter fluid or propane or other alternative fuel source in the intake while trying to start the vehicle if the car starts and runs you know you have a fuel problem (there are lots of videos on how to do this test also) Well just some more info for you that may or may not help you out. Well good luck to you and have a good day.
i have a 87 dakota 3.9l thats not getting any fuel. the pump is mechanical and located on the block. question is, is there a pump thats also in tne tank? i shot 50psi or so of nitrogen through the lines in the engine compartment, at first nothing then next blast heard a loud thud that came after blast thaT sounded like it came from inside the tank.. anyone??
+Jeffrey Stout I am not familiar with the 87 model year. I went to autozone.com and put in your truck info and searched for fuel pumps. The only vehicle specific fuel pumps I saw looked like mechanical pumps. I don't know if there is one in the tank but if there is there should be a relay for it and a fuse for it. Try searching online for the fuse and relay layout. Also if you blew out the line and you had nothing and then you heard a thud that sounds like to me you had some crud in the line. I would suggest you drop your tank to inspect it and clean it out really well. If there is a pump change it (before changing verify power and ground to the fuel pump) Change your inline fuel filter as well if you have one. It is a pain to lower the tank but given the age of your vehicle and the things you mentioned it would probably be a good idea to inspect it and clean it out. Well I hope this info helps you out, and good luck to you. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+BoxerGirl04 Sounds like you have either a bad starter, bad battery, or bad cables. You need to do some voltage drop testing with a voltmeter to figure out what is wrong. Here is a link to a video that explains things pretty well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XhRPLgH6uZg.html I hope this info helps you out. Good luck. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
+AJ “Figgy” Pierce i have a 87 dakota 3.9l thats not getting any fuel. the pump is mechanical and located on the block. question is, is there a pump thats also in tne tank? i shot 50psi or so of nitrogen through the lines in the engine compartment, at first nothing then next blast heard a loud thud that came after blast thaT sounded like it came from inside the tank.. anyone??
I have never worked on a 87 Dakota so I am not 100 percent sure, but I did look online at autozone, oreilly, and rockauto autoparts and I punched in the year make model and looked for a fuel pump and the only one that came back was a mechanical one. None of these autoparts stores sold an electrical pump for this particular year only the mechanical. Well I am not 100 percent sure but seems weird they would not sell an electric pump, those are pretty common failures. Well I hope this info helps you out. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day.
+brandon hubbard Well if it is a crank no start. I would start by testing ignition, fuel, and compression. To test ignition use a spark tester, to test fuel use a fuel pressure gauge, or try an external fuel source sprayed in the intake manifold through a vacuum line (starter fluid, propane, or something like that) and if the first two are not your problem check compression on the engine using a compression gauge. If you dont have spark, check ignition components (coil, distributor, plugs, plug wires, crankshaft position sensor, module or what ever you have depending on your system design) No fuel, you can try, listening for your fuel pump to turn on, use an external fuel source to see if it starts, try smacking on the bottom of the gas tank (this is not a fix just a test if it starts right up most likely you have a bad fuel pump) low Compression could point to head gasket or mechanical failure. Well I hope this info helps you out and helps you get started trouble shooting your 94. Thanks for the comment and have a good day.
I have a 99 durango that cranks but wont start. At first i thought it was the starter because it started after giving it a love tap a couple times begore it stopped starting. I replsced the starter and nothing changed. I have niw replaced the distributor, rotor, relays and plugs and still nothing. I hear the pump activate and smell gas whrn trying to start. Anybody have any ideas?? Im no mechanic but a capable peraon. Any suggestions appreciated, thanks.
MindAintRite Check battery voltage, and check battery voltage while cranking. You want to see 12.6 open circuit voltage(no less than 12.4.) and no less than 9.6v while cranking. (if below spec battery problem) You can check the cables in your starter circuit for high resistance by doing voltage drop testing while cranking.(positive battery post to positive starter post, and neg battery post to starter ground while cranking you want to see lower than .5 volts on the positive and negative side) If higher cables are bad. These test can help rule out starter, battery, and cables. However if you smell fuel and hear the pump it sounds to me like you are not getting spark. , but its usually very easy to check for fuel pressure by screwing in a fuel pressure test gauge just to rule out fuel delivery problems. (Also if it is a fuel problem you can test by spraying starter fluid or other fuel source into the intake, if the car starts up when you spray that into intake you have a fuel delivery problem) Next I would check spark use a spark tester (I dont recommend the light that plugs inline because it can lie to you, I would use a spark tester that forces the spark to jump a gap). Ok so if all those test good then do a compression test to make sure your engine has good compression. In order for a gasoline engine to run, it has to have compression, fuel, air, and timed spark. Well that is a few things you can try, well I hope that info helps you out. Good luck with your Durango.
There is a splice under the fuse box that corrodes. You will loose spark and fuel. It controls the auto shut down circuit. Remove the two bolts and move the relay/fuse box. Slice the friction tape right under the fuse box and you will see the green corrosion at the splice. Cut out the splice and add a jumper and connect the three wires to the one wire. This should be done even if it looks good. Every early Dakota will have this problem!
MindAintRite Fuel for thought, I changed many electrical items before finding the bad splice. They usually are an intermittent problem. If you have another no start problem check the splice! The way to tell is when you turn the key to on you will not get the check engine light on. The Auto Shut Down relay turns on the check engine light, so if the splice isn't working you wont get the light. Good luck hope you got it.
Really it could be a few issues. Usually a rough idle that clears up after warm up could point to a vacuum leak. Or in some cases unburned fuel can ignite and cause popping sounds in the intake. However it could be several things causing backfire issues, here is a pretty good article on types and causes of backfires and things to look for, and suggests a few fixes. www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-backfires-while-running I hope this info helps you out and helps point you in the right direction. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. Have a good day, and good luck to you.
