Dodge Dakota Front Drive Shaft CV Joint Repair (fix crunching noise when in 4x4) 

Very helpful, took an afternoon but saved me about $300 or more in labor (got a whole reconditioned drive shaft = $250). Thank you very much.

I just did the repair and sure enough this was the problem! Thanks for saving me a buttload of $$$$!

My husband finally got his kit today, and his biggest problem was getting those front bolts out to drop the shaft!!! Everything else came apart pretty easily. Good thing the new kit came with a different snap ring because his was snapped in half. ha..Let's see how good this one works!! We need 4 wheel drive here in Alaska!

Good video! thanks - My 2003 Durango needs this done, runs fine on 2wheel drive but in 4wd the banging starts!

Very helpful! Thank you. I almost had to spend $250 I got her for 6 bucks at the yard if this one doesn't work I will just buy one online brand new like you did.

Great Video. One thing, though. I took apart the factory cv joint and there was a gasket on the boot side as well, so I looked closer at my kit, and sure enough there were two gaskets stuck so tightly together that they looked like a single.

Doing this job on our 05 Dakota (aka, 'Money Pit") We wound up using a 5 ton 3 jaw puller and that shaft finally gave up on the old bearing. Word of warning: Buy this via Amazon or RockAuto. The local parts houses want over $150++ for this kit!! We've ordered ours in for under $50 bucks. The 'kit' should be in our hands in a few days. We've already done the cleaning and disassembly. All mating surfaces coated in "Fluid Film" pending the next time we work on it. We'll clean it off with the brake clean to ensure a neat and clean install. Question: (I'll have to check history, as my notifies are shut off) In the absence of channel lock pliers. To get those end caps 'clipped' onto the bearing shell. We are thinking of using the old half-moon pressure distributors along with nuts/bolts in all 6 holes and slowly draw both caps onto the bearing housing. It's a safe bet once the assembly is installed onto the transfer case at the required torque (22.5 ft lbs) it will likely snug things down even more. Just wondering about using those 6 holes and pieces to pop both shells into place.

Thank you so much! I thought this was my t-case

Excellent video! you, sir , are my hero.

Great video man thank you.

Awesome Video. No Bullshit, just information !!!!!!!!

Great vid brother.. gonna attempt mine in next week or so. Volume is cranked on the radio until then lol

Thanks helped a bunch....mine came apart a little easier.

This guy rocks.

Excellent! Thanks!

What do you think about using grease that isn't cv specific? Many people speak out against that. Not saying I agree just curious. Also curious how its doing now 3 years later.

I replaced the front lower control arms and now this front axle is rubbing on the exhaust? I don't know how to fix it

I was able to get the front driveline detached however I was not able to locate the driveline pushed out in a way to allow movement forward, the catalytic converters are in the way, the only option is to remove the exhaust system or cut the cross member exhaust pipe. did I miss something?? I put it all back together for now but the truck is parked...

I let my oem one go so long with no boot I had to replace the shaft because I stripped the splines off the shaft while out plowing so i wasnt able to just replace the cv joint . l found an after market shaft for 200$ that had u joints at both ends thru pro shaft online .

Thanks broski

Can it make a thumping noise that has playing loose when in transfer case you move it forward and back by hand. Like while driving you can feel thumping forward and backwards during all speeds under 35 and more at highway. I have an 2002 4wd dakota sport 3.9 it does need replaced. Rear drive shaft is fine but rear differential fluid does need change the casing looks like it had been leaking before I bought it.

Have you had ever had any issues with using a basic but tacky grease like say blue terrapin in a cv joint? Threw some in mine that was failing so i pressed as much as i could without taking it off (last hail mary) and honestly i think it made it worse lol changing it out today so we’ll see if that’s my issue. Clunking on braking and acceleration and based on the state of my cv im leaning towards that. 98 zj. Replaced control arms last year all bushings are good basically entire suspension was redone with the lift except upper control arms. Doing that as well to correct drive line angles and hopefully let that cv last longer

Great video. I had the same terrible time removing the bearing. But now the new one will not slide on, very tight. Should I hammer it home or is there a possibility that the bearing is not sized properly or the shaft splines are not proper size. I don’t really want to get it half way on and it not go on or off without destroying the new bearing. It’s a dorman part and not cheap. Any thoughts?

Thanks

Where in PA are you located? Im in PA as well with an 04 Dakota that needs fixing

Would that cause truck jumping around in 4wd fine in 2wd but starts sounding awful and jumping

Where are you located? I want you to do my Dakota, i'm in Kingsport Tn

Is this applicable to 2wd as well. I was told they have the CV joint as well.

Hey I finally got the truck and when I'm putting the metal band on the rubber it wont get tight enough and the rubber can slide left and right is this okay?

Is this the same on a 97 Dakota v6 4x4, it's making the same noise you describe.

Could this also be causing a noise when I’m not in 4WD?

Yeah, but why does that boot continue to break off?

I had to take mine to the machine shop to have it pressed out. The gear puller and impact gun didn't do anything. Paid $30.

Will this one work on my 04 4.7?

Do you still have this CV joint in is it holding up good?

What part number what's that kit?

Wouldn't you hear that noise in 2wd also?