This is happening to my 2010 Dodge Journey right now. 😢 Whether I’m driving it or parked it’s honking like crazy. I should show this video to my mechanic.
Thank you for your videos. I have switched the horn switch only by following your guide and day 1 so far haven't heard the horn go off. Will update, but so far (and what I've read from many dodge journey owners) is that this car has more problems than its worth. Want to sell it, but can't sell if at any moment it honks. Keeping my fingers crossed, it has already been an expensive road.
Hi! I just watched your video, very helpful! I have a 2010 Dodge Journey and I just finished replacing the TIPM and like you, it didn't fix the problem. After watching your video, I couldn't tell what you were pointing at that you said was $277 from Chrysler (:42), is it the black plastic piece? And the piece you pointed to, "old printer ribbon", what did you do with that piece?
That's called a clockspring module, all those parts interchange from a dodge avenger and that's where i ended up getting my parts from. Cheaper and more of them in the salvage yards
I'm also experiencing the randomly-blowing horn problem with my 2010 Dodge Journey but am unsure if my problem is related because of one unexpected result I got while diagnosing the problem. Anyway when the issue first began a few weeks ago, I simply disconnected the harness connector right at the horns however soon realized that the battery was discharging overnight to the point that sometimes the car wouldn't start the next day without a boost. So I dove into diagnosing the parasitic leak by disconnecting the IPC ground and inserting an ammeter between the IPC and ground. Initial current draw was about 2.7A but after the computers went to sleep within a minute or so, the current draw dropped to about 10 mA. Within about 15 minutes the horns began blowing randomly and current draw was back over 1 A. I then removed both horn fuses (left and right) but within fifteen minutes or so the horns began blowing. Huh? In any case I began removing more fuses and found that upon removing Fuse M13 "Cabin Compartment Node (CCN), Multifunction Switch/Siren Module, ITM)", the horns no longer blew randomly and computer(s) weren't waking up with high current draw. I reinstalled all other fuses except M13 and the horns still aren't blowing randomly. I figure the computers waking up every 15 minutes or so when the horns start blowing is why the battery drains and assume the "Multifunction Switch/Siren Module" refers to the steering column switches and horn but before I take off the steering column as per your video and repair the horn ring, I'd like to understand why the horns still blow when those fuses are removed. Any idea what's up with that?
@@cesararriola4176 yes, if you remove M13, it will prevent the car's computers from waking everytime the horn ring shorts. Be aware that some functions like lighting upon opening a door will no longer work until the ignition is turned on.
@@cesararriola4176 BTW, my comments above that the horn still blows when removing both horn fuses is incorrect. One of the fuses I was removing was not one of the horn fuses. 🙄🥵 Once I removed both of the horn fuses correctly, the horn stopped blowing intermittently while driving.
Hi there. You seem to be pretty active in responding to comments, so I was wondering if you could help me out. I was having the honking issue as well. I'm not too mechanically inclined and wouldn't trust myself disassembling things, so I just took the horn fuses out. However, I've been randomly getting another issue with my 2010 dodge journey. Sometimes the headlights don't turn on. It's not the bulbs themselves, they work, but sometimes they just randomly don't turn on. I can go weeks and they work fine, then they will randomly stop, then randomly start working again. It doesn't matter if I switch between dims or bright. They might flick on for a split second but then turn off again. It seems to be a very common issue with Journeys, but the only info I can find are from old forum posts 10+ years ago with no concrete answer. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks! And hope you're doing well
Having an issue with the horn going off, pulled the fuses to keep my neighbors happy but there is a ticking noise coming from underneath the fuse box which I believe is causing my battery to drain completely. Would it be possible for me to just disconnect the horn as a cheap and temporary fix until I can get it diagnosed properly and fixed?
To fix the horn issue do you only need to repair the wire that is loose or do you need to replace the whole assmebly like you did? Clockspring and everything?
jason brown , I replaced everything just because I was already in there and parts were cheap. The horn was just the wire on that horn ring. I had to do the clock spring because I bought a cheap one off eBay and it wasn’t anywhere near correct.
jason brown I think they call it a horn module or something like that. You could potentially tape it but if it’s pulled from the module, it’ll still happen.
Hey man just stumbled across this experiencing the same problem. It’s only honking while my car is on. Can you give me a quick fix for how I can just disable the horn so I can drive it up to my mechanic? I can’t find any videos that are relative to the Dodge Journey that show me where to find/how to identify which module/line it is that makes the horn emit sound
@@bent_rods excellent. You would think I would have checked that first before commenting and asking for help, but I was paralyzed by fear and embarrassment. Thank you kindly
I have a 2013 Dodge avenger with the same horn issue, except when I press on the fuse box the car honks. The mechanic told me I would have to replace my fuse box. There has to be something other than that that is wrong. When I press on the horn it will not honk whatsoever. Only randomly why I drive. I do not have any loose fuses or anything. I'm also have loss of power with my vehicle but the electronic throttle system light is on the dash so that is another thing that needs fixed.
That sounds like the TIPM or what you might be calling the fuse box. You can unbolt it from the car and if you take out all the relays and fuses, separate it from the housing. Sometimes if you’re lucky you can clean off the corrosion that builds up and be ok. If it’s burnt or badly corroded it’ll need to be replaced. I did that as well on mine a few years back. They are also cheap at most salvage yards and go between other models.
I've been having the same problem on a 2012 dodge avenger. Replacing the TIPM did not fully solve the problem. It still honks but less. Did you ever get yours fixed?
Hi Chris, out of no where my horn started going off and I think this might be the fix. I also think it's clock spring related because my traction control light comes on from time to time and I have to reset the steering wheel in order to move the gear shift. Is it possible for you to tell me what i may need exactly whether module or clock spring itself?! Thanks for your time!!
Kellen Foster , If you’re going to be in it repairing stuff, it’s easy enough to do the clock spring as well but do not buy the ones off eBay or amazon because they’re never correct and miss connections. If you can’t get it into gear, it’s more likely to be the neutral safety switch, also common on these cars.
@@bent_rods I really appreciate you taking the time to reply and fast at that!! Now, you said "Clock spring as well" is there a part you're referring to with "As well"?! With the safety switch, do you mean "Brake Switch" because I've definitely replaced those before and were apart of shifting issue. If not, and "neutral safety switch" is something else I'll look into getting that as well!!
The clock spring won’t fix the horn issue, that’s the plastic horn ring that looks like a rectangle with a little ribbon wire on the top left corner. The neutral safety switch is under the shifter console. Not hard either though
@@bent_rods I've seen a closer look at the green ribbon thing that looks like the inside of a printer in another video and the guy says its the buttons. My questions is other than going to the junkyard because you don't recommend ebay, do you know what the part is called or am I better off just getting a whole steering wheel assembly like I believe you did because you needed the switches as well?
Kellen Foster , cost wise the steering wheel assembly would be the best. I forget what mopar calls that horn ring, but my dealer wanted 175 bucks just for that. I got everything for 75 at the junk yard.
Yeah this is a fairly common issue with these. That was the fix, although getting a steering wheel with all the switches from the salvage yard was way cheaper than what the dealer wants for the one piece. Chrysler 200 and avenger share the same part
Can that short cause a loss of power while driving? My cars horn blows randomly has loss of power, limp mode, sometimes stalling while parked, ive replaced tipm, coolant temp sensor, throttle body, and got new battery. Idk.. now i have no codes. Pcm?
No, this wouldn't cause a loss of power, but it definitely sounds like you've got some kind of electrical issue. Is yours the 4 or 6 cylinder? Both models have the valves on the intake manifold that are electronic and they'll give you loss of power. When I replaced my tipm, I found every ground on the car and cleaned them. There are a lot and that can give you issues like a bad pcm. Try that first, cost is better than throwing a pcm at it.
I forget the name of the electric valves on the intake, variable valve or something like it, it's on the edges of the intake, mine was dead and I had no off the line power, replaced it and it was like night and day.
You should have a smaller fuse panel on the driver's side in the floor by the door jamb. It'll be a cover that may be labeled fuse, pull that and the back will have the diagram.
Hi I hope you see this comment, but I have a 2008 dodge avenger and my car horn goes off randomly. My dad and I tried to disconnect the fuse as a temporary fix but it was not located in the fuse box under the hood. I’ve been searching and searching online but not having any luck…
I think those had another fuse box either on the driver's side on the side of the dash, right next to the door jam. It'll look like a hard part of the dash. If not, it may be behind the cover under the steering wheel. I'll look and see what i can find. It's been a few years since i worked on those.
More than likely it'll be similar and under the hood. It'll have a black plastic cover on it and may say fuses/relays. Once you take the lid off, flip it over and it'll have a diagram underneath. Usually two fuses right beside each other.
@independent9172 if you can't find the fuse, you can pull the connector off the horns themselves. Just a plastic clip and you can pull the connector so the horns will not do anything at that point.
Car places are stupid ! I bought a brand new horn for nothing ! It was the steering wheel ! Been having the same issue since I replaced the fucking horn !!
