Dodge Ram Front Axle Service 2003-2013 

This particualr tool set is depth-stop to factory specs.

That is shifting both nuts over to achieve specified gear lash, plus preload.

Glad you enjoyed it

I'd say a bad axle shaft joints are bad, or something in the differential. Also check the front driveshaft, it's probably not that but the CV head is a service item.

The diff carrier itself is a bit different, just don't drop anything or pull on the internal harness too hard. The electromagnetic components are kind of delicate. I would recommend putting a folded up moving blanket (or something else padded) under the axle while removing the diff. I believe Harbor Freight has them for pretty cheap. Besides that, the bearing and gear procedures are the same.

@@TorqueKingTV awesome info, thank you. Quality video.

If you have excessive lash, you will want to check everything. Could be as simple as needing to adjust the side bearing nuts but an in-depth inspection will let you know if bearings need replaced.

@@TorqueKingTV yeah that’s what I’m afraid of. I bought a complete high-quality USA. Timken bearings the whole shot for a complete rebuild. Then I found another rear end cheap. It seems to be tight I’m gonna pick up I may just put some new seals in that one first and put it in so I can rebuild the other one on the bench instead of underneath a truck in the snow which is probably coming. Thanks for the info. I’m sure you’re probably right I’m pretty sure the pinion bearing went. I didn’t find any metal in the thing but there was some pieces of junk in there and I get the feeling this truck they put a bunch of new parts in it. They never adjusted anything the ring gear that’s in there look at somebody took a 4 inch grinder and tried to divert or something, so I just bought all new gears and everything whatever I don’t need I’ll send back I’m actually getting into rebuilding these where I might be able to get really good deals on parts out of Detroit and then just charge charge a standard $500 rebuilding fee, which is probably about 30 to 40% of a dealership close I’m real I’m willing to help all the hot rider guys boy cleaning the thing re-painting it and they can go with all new parts like plates and brakes in the whole shot and that’s fine. They’ll have a complete like brand new rear end, cheaper than they be able to get it anywhere, I’ll tell you what the real problem is on these things don’t use that damn synthetic oil would happen on mine is they put a chrome cover on there that was probably Chinese in because the check the synthetic oil has no anti-rust in it the stuff was like Crisco and it rusted right through the plate and leaked very slow so he didn’t pick it up so by the time I pull the pan off it was practically dry strange 01 dodge are on the company. People had this type a rear end around for 40 years and before the synthetic oil garbage is coming out they never blew nothing. This is definitely not your father’s Dodge. Silantros is a joke all they use cheapen stuff. I just read yesterday that the 2004 ram 1500 trucks may actually be one of the last good years because they actually came from DaimlerChrysler who was trying to address whatever problems they found if anybody knows the name of the kit that you could replace all the heater box doors with aluminum doors that don’t break off when you drive down dirt road, let me know because my nephew says there’s one out there if you ask me and I’m going to file a complaint and I encourage everybody else to do it when I do it I’ll probably publish it. I’m actually sort of a retired lawyer but I’m more in the hot rod shit arms, I think God should have to recall all lease cars and trucks that the heater boxes air vents fell apart or don’t work because everyone of them does it is it amazing how you can go into a junkyard and find a 70 Chevelle well you’re not gonna find one anymore but years ago and everything worked on the car the ignition in the heater box in all the controls but now we build this junk and if you don’t replace the ignition switch, the battery goes dead and if you don’t fix the heater, you don’t have any defrosters and you probably freeze your ass in the winter It’s ridiculous. I want to see American quality back in America and I’m sure you do as well the only way to do that is by writing law and destroying NAFTA in US MCA that it was renamed and put down law to all the companies that are actually run by a monopoly young by JP Morgan that we see you either get back here or you are banned from importing your stuff into America because we don’t want junk that has no quality control that they throw handfuls of salt or whatever it is in the steel made in China because it’s no good. It just rust out cracked brakes off whatever it’s garbage I had a brand new gas tank bracket look brand new last year this year the gas tank almost fell out. It was obviously replaced with Chinese steel. You know the easy way to fix it you go down to Walmart and you get a 2 inch ratcheting straps. Can you wrap it around to make sure you get it over the top support that hangs the tank can you pull it back up shove it back up with a jack slowly with the board where it supposed to be and you ratchet that strap and you cut off the straps it’s not hanging down, it’s probably a lot better than original. They should probably actually make some Kevlar straps to put in these tanks and they would be permanent. They’d be easy to drop. I will never understand why we have to have a fuel pump inside of a tank they could’ve just as easily put it in front of the tank, I really don’t think it would’ve made a difference if they were to put it up there in the engine compartment so you could easily worked and it seems to work fine on the drag boat actually electric fuel pump on the car with the carburetor works just about like fuel injection, become because it pumped up the fuel pressure before you start the engine in pretty much when you pump the gas young, she primes her with a nice shot a Gaston whom starts right up I couldn’t believe the 409 that I rebuilt was probably the best Engine I ever rebuilt. I put it in the drag boat told my little brother OK I’ve been through everything it looks like it’s ready. Got to see what happens. I turn on the key pumped up the fuel pressure and the damn thing started like I just shut it off, the timing was right and everything was right on all the valves with the Iske roller cam. We looked underneath at the prop with a 20% overdrive and said holy shit. This thing is going to fly lol yeah I’m about 30 miles an hour at idle and when you punch it, there was no hesitation you just heard his echo and it was doing 100 you got to give a flat bottom drag boat there’s no trip like it, I still want it she’s a 1966 speaker with all my custom upholstered seats burn up in the house for you I’m gonna have to start over it’s too bad cause I had a customs golden crossbones so right in the seat. it was funny because the skull in the distance kind of look like a cop boat insignia in my buddy says I’m fishing there and I hear this boat idling with this big, huge cam and he’s like who is shit what? No he’ll do the pigs have they must mean serious business L O L this thing one so fast, it could come right up on the prop. I actually took is supercharged 494 Ford in a modified jet. He waited till we got doing about 50 before he finally punched it, and I punched it probably took in my four or five weeks before his blower really come to wife and I just use his screech and he come up next to me and just beat me and he was cool. We were talking for a minute. He said he knew my boat before I bought it but I went back home and I was like that’s it. I’m pulling the L 88 out of the Chevelle and putting a blower on it, instead I won’t get beat next time. Unfortunately I heard the guy is dead now not from boats, but apparently got a fatal disease and he was a super rich guy in charge of a big corporation or owned it or something. He had a beautiful boat. A few other businesses around town knew the guy he wasn’t from around there it was up in Michigan. I think he was from Chicago, I love all the stuff especially supercharged engines. I worked for Perkins diesel for probably eight years before they started having problems of management.

If just replacing bearings, 99.9 times out of 100 the pinion depth will not change, and if it does any change will be minute. This is assuming that good quality bearings are used. We do have another video posted of measuring Spicer axles which is a similar procedure. If changing major components, depth would need to be adjusted. Instead of buying the tool you could just get an extra set of pinion bearings to grind out until they are a slip fit. use those along with the old crush sleeve and nut to check the pattern with gear marking compound. We do use pinion depth tools for initial setup, but the fine tuning is always done with slip fit bearings and marking compound. Any time the pinion nuts are removed, the crush sleeve and nut should be replaced. This procedure is in the FSM, no prior rolling torque number is needed.

We are working on that video now! Parts are in stock torqueking.com/category/pinion-yokes-seals-2008-2018-ram-magna-front/

They frequently exceed 300 ftlbs to start the crush.

Depending on what your local shop rates are, probably $1000+ in labor plus parts. If you do it yourself, depending on what exactly needs replaced you can potentially be under $1000 in parts and tools, plus a couple days of your time.

Now that most things are discontinued after this video was made, Mac Tools L39250 or L39300 + air hammer to drive on the bolts is about all that remains for removing a rusted in hub. If you can find a used J&J Hub Puller, that is the best tool we have used. Also heat cycle around the knuckle/hub pilot a couple times with a MAP torch and spray a good penetrating oil as it cools. Heating will push air out and loosen things up a bit, and cooling will suck the oil in. You can use a regular torch but be careful not to overheat.

No videos on that and I don't know what kind of vehicle lifting ans safety equipment you have, but the basic procedure is remove and hang calipers, unbolt control arms from frame and shock top bolts, and make sure ABS wires/ drag link/ track bar/ sway bar links are disconnected. I would recommend following safe removal steps in the factory service manual.

Once you loosen the nuts it will fall right out. Silly question, you did remove the axle shafts first correct?

Depends what it needs. To have it done, figure 1000 in parts and 1-2000 in labor, depending on your local rates for a bearing and seal replacement. Add on more to replace major components. Of course, most shops put the cheapest parts in while still charging a premium. Could do it yourself for quite a bit less.

For the axle ends, a comfortable stool can be a lifesaver. The diff can be done on a nice creeper, just make sure you get all your tools before you lay down!

Besides the reintroduced Power Wagon that has E-Lockers, the regular pickups do not come with any type of traction devices in the front. There are some aftermarket options available.

Sure looks like the front to me unless you have a rear steer axle! Offset differential housing and knuckle "C" at each end of tube kind of give it away...

Sounds like you may need a QK4685... torqueking.com/product/4685/qk4685-front-inner-axle-seal-and-tool-kit-2003-13-ram-aam-925-14-bolt/

Hi- yes we did have a local customer with the same issue a few months ago. We determined there was an issue seating the bearings correctly so the torque loosened up on the crush sleeve as the vehicle was in motion. I wouldn't say it's a common issue but it does happen.

@@TorqueKingTV thank you!

The procedure/specs is right out of the Chrysler manual. Some applications don't specify threadlocker, while others have it pre-applied on new bolts. I would say use at your own discretion, however my personal stuff usually gets medium strength on everything.

@Torque King TV thanks for reply, your videos made my life easier that's for sure.

No, but it wouldn't hurt. They are unbalanced assemblies.

@@TorqueKingTV Thank you

For just replacing bearings, use the factory shim. For a regear, measure pinion depth to identify correct shim.