Does ONE TOOTH REALLY MATTER? - Gearing EXPLAINED 

Rock on brother!

I've hit a gravel road on a cruiser going 65 from pavement.... Definitely like drinking a coffee. Haven't done it many times lately because jerks doing burnouts making it bumpy.

@@boycottjews I would have had to change my shorts.

I’m 71 and ridden my Husaberg 650 down the deep sand beach in Baja at 95 mph indicated on my Trail Tech GPS with 14x45 gearing. Bike wasn’t even wound out.

@donaldgrant9067 "Appallo" ? Do you mean Apollo ? Is that those smaller, fiddy kind of bikes ? I remember I had like a small 125 fiddy bike when I was younger, I think it said Apollo on the side of the tank that is why I recognize that name.

Absolutely , 1 tooth on the rear is a total waste of time/ money, start with the front.

This is true, to get a quick feel. But generally the front gets eaten up much faster, so it's not a long term solution. It's better to change both by 1-2 teeth so you get a better final ratio.

Dude in the video got his math backwards for gear ratios

Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less and wear out more slowly themselves, making both components last longer. So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket that will fit your bike and which will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire. Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end speed or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful if it's too low, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either 1) achieve the gearing you want, or 2) run out of space to add more teeth. ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. For example, I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54, because 17t is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit. Keep in mind that having larger sprockets in both positions is much, much better for the chain, with the priority on the larger front sprocket. The larger rear sprocket will increase speed the chain moves, but it will also reduce the amount of tension on the chain significantly, and the reduced tension is far more important to chain longevity -- as is the larger front sprocket. Also, if you make a major change your gearing, such as adding a tooth to your front sprocket, ride the bike like that for at least two weeks before you make any decision about further changes. Always give yourself time to adjust, adapt, and get a really good, matured sense of the results of a gearing change before spending more money on sprockets to make another gearing change. Also, adding teeth up front and a possibly a few more in the rear might require a longer chain. Fine. Make that happen. Spend the money on a good quality chain-breaker. Buy a few links of chain from a local motorcycle shop and add them to your chain, or better yet, just buy a new, longer chain and use your chain breaker to adjust the length to fit your new sprocket setup. Proper, USEFUL gearing is a make-or-break issue on any motorcycle, so do not skimp on spending money on a high-quality chain breaker or a new chain or more sprockets in order to find the gearing that serves your purposes and gives you gearing-relief. Spend the money and the time to figure out exactly what final drive gearing will be the most useful to you and make you like your bike rather than curse your bike -- or even sell it. If it eventuates as necessary, become an expert on breaking and re-riveting chains, on lengthening and shortening chains. Do whatever it takes to get the gearing that makes you smile. To recap: 1) Get the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit your bike. 2) Adjust the gearing from there by adding or subtracting teeth from the rear sprocket. 3) Do not allow your current chain length to limit what you do with sprockets. Buy the tools and change your chain length if necessary. 4) Never use a new rear sprocket with an old chain, and vice versa. The old, stretched chain will ruin the new sprocket, and vice versa. Front sprockets are so inexpensive that you should replace them like candy. The INSTANT you can see visible wear on your countershaft sprocket, replace it to preserve your chain. You should go through at least two countershaft sprockets during the life of every rear sprocket and every chain.

So I want more snap off the line I go up in the rear and down In the front ya

Yea my fe501 is a bit geared taller in the back and I definitely could use some more top end, thats why i have a 1krr🤣

Is this the same for smaller front sprocket?

​@@zakki3629 nah opposite for smaller front... better acceleration.. easier wheelies on smaller bikes

Torque!!!! Speed vs Torque

2.5

2.73

2.77

2.420

7

At .26 he's must trying to do 300mph

Just found this and glad someone already corrected it

Bro I thought that to , I was like wtf is he talking about😂

Yeah, i was like wuuuuut? Is this a Bike Course or a Bugatti Course?

Thanks. Decided not to watch after 10 seconds

It would be cheaper to switch your front sprocket to one with more teeth

@@superstraighthhwhitemale8880 so if I’m running a 13t and go to 15 that would give me more speed cause that’s what I’m looking for more mph

@@85bunnyville47 Try just one extra tooth first. Adding 2 to the front sprocket is a huge difference and might not fit anyways, depending on the bike.

I want to do drift on my duke 200, what should i improve, torque or horsepower?

Be a man !

13/50 was perfect for me on a beta 250rr

​@@sollara505 Being a man means using your head, which obviously you do not. So I'm not sure what to call you.

I’m assuming you’re joking.

Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less, and wear out more slowly themselves, making them both last longer. So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket you can that will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire. Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either 1) achieve the gearing you want, or 2) run out of space to add more teeth. ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54. (17 teeth is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit.)

@@linguinatorschwartz9309 Thankyou for the insight. 14 tooth is the largest a crf230f would fix. I had to modify the Chain Slider Guide / Swingarm Protector because how little room the 14t sprocket had so 15 tooth isn't a option. Is saying that. I hope your comment helps many more people in the future! Thankyou.

"Close in quality to Fortnine" ? ? ? That's a laugh, because this video is terrible. This guy shouldn't be allowed anywhere near a math problem or any discussion about gearing.

@linguinatorschwartz9309 I was talking about the editing and composition quality being close to fortnine, dick. You wanna make claims that someone's math is wrong, you better be ready to provide an explanation to back it up as well. Don't just say someone is wrong. You have no credibility. When you say someone is wrong, say WHY, prove them wrong. This comment makes me S.M.H.

none. just adjust wheel to new chain tightness

Thanks for this bless you.❤

u mean front more for speed and less for torque

@@razielradd3016Yep. What I said was correct (that it's opposite) but I messed up the example 🤦‍♂

Odd or even numbers of teeth on the sprockets DOES NOT MATTER. At all. If you need more pep on the hiway, you need a bike with more motor. If you gear your bike down for more zing at hiway speeds, the resulting higher RPM will likely drive you batty.

i dont get this notion of "upgrading". started on a cub 90. i also caused myself the most injuries on that damn thing! went to a gpz750 turbo. and after that? ive had 1500s, ive had 650s, had an 800 briefly... and now? whole 155cc of raw powaaah! R15 mostly for costs... doing 1000km+ every week, it soon adds up, tyres, chains, bits n pieces... and yeah, i cant control myself and if i CAN overtake, i WILL. nsr150sp was my second fastest bike, at 240km/h. what did i just say about self control? lost my license far too many times to do it again. im not trolling, i just wonder... WHO is telling you you HAVE to "upgrade", and why would you listen to them? that being said... why would you listen to ME? really, for a first bike, get something second hand, cheapo, that you couldnt care less about dropping, then take it into carparks, and learn how to not drop it! by dropping it. repetitively. work on the LOW SPEED skills. can keep the shiny princess in the garage and take it out on weekends if you must...

No, it wouldn't. Smaller front sprockets wear out the chain and themselves more rapidly than larger front sprockets. Larger front sprockets wear the chain less, and wear out more slowly themselves, making both components last longer. So the guiding principle is that you should always use the largest front sprocket you can that will still allow you to achieve the gearing you desire, even if that means you have to by a larger rear sprocket and a longer chain. Therefore, if you need to gear your bike UP, for more top-end speed or a lower cruising RPM or to make first gear more useful because it's too low, ALWAYS gear it UP by adding teeth to the front sprocket until you either . . . 1) achieve the gearing you want, or . . . 2) run out of space to add more teeth. This means you should never, ever use a 12-tooth or 13-tooth countershaft sprocket, unless you have already installed the largest rear sprocket you can find and you still need lower gearing. And if you need taller gearing, ONLY when you have no more space to install a larger front sprocket should you start subtracting teeth from the rear. For example, I have a Honda XR650R and my current sprocket combo is 17/54, because 17t is the largest countershaft sprocket that will fit. The DRZ400 has a 5-speed transmission with a notoriously narrow 2.65:1 overall ratio (OAR) that everyone complains about. The "S" model also has final drive gearing that's too low for extended hiway cruising, so the SOP (standard operating procedure) on the DRZ400 is to replace the 15t countershaft sprocket with a 16t without even thinking about it (16t is the largest that will fit the DRZ). If I were you, I'd get a 16-tooth c/s sprocket and see how you like that gearing. One more tooth on the front will make a big difference. If that's too much -- not likely -- you then get a rear sprocket with one or two teeth more than your current rear sprocket, to bring the gearing back down a bit. Keep in mind that on your bike, adding or subtracting one tooth up front is almost exactly the same as adding or subtracting three teeth in the rear, so going from 15 up front to 16 would be almost the same as going from 44 down to 41 in the rear. However, having the larger 16t up front would be much, much better for the chain. Likewise, the principle on rear sprockets is that a larger rear sprocket will increase the speed of the chain, but it will reduce the amount of tension on the chain significantly -- and the reduced tension is far more important to chain longevity (as is the larger front sprocket), so going up one tooth in front is far better than going down three teeth in the rear. So ideally, your final sprocket combo would be one of the following . . . Taller: 16/42 16/43 16/44 16/45 16/46 Same as stock: 16/47 Lower: 16/48 16/49 16/50 16/51 16/52 Etc. Also, if you change your front sprocket to 16t, ride the bike like that for at least two weeks before you make any decision about further changes. Always give yourself time to adjust, adapt, and get a really good, matured sense of the results of a gearing change before making another change. Also, adding a tooth up front and possibly a few more in the rear might require a longer chain. Fine. Make that happen. Spend the money on a good quality chain-breaker. Buy a few links of chain from a local motorcycle shop and add them to your chain, or better yet, just buy a new, longer chain and use your chain breaker to adjust the length to fit your sprocket setup. Proper, USEFUL gearing is a make-or-break issue on any motorcycle, so do not skimp on spending money on a high-quality chain breaker or a new chain or more sprockets in order to find the gearing that serves your purposes. Spend the money and the time to figure out exactly what final drive gearing will be the most useful to you and will make you like your bike rather than curse your bike -- or even sell it. If it eventuates as necessary, become an expert on breaking and re-riveting chains, on lengthening and shortening chains. Do whatever it takes to get the gearing that makes you smile. If you start with a 16t countershaft sprocket, it will be an eye-opener. I guarantee it. It may be all you need.

Yes

Front sprocket down one tooth.

Bigger rear sprocket is gonna decrease the top speed not increase it

@@Hsp44 very true. it will decrease the top end speed, but it will increase the acceleration. my point was that i changed to the smaller factory size and only gained a few MPH on the top end. and to be honest it didn't change the take off at all.