Same! Im 225 and have a 2006 YZ150 eric gorr motor and I LOVE it at my local track. Funnest most exciting bike I have ever had. Lost count how many guys there tell me the bike is "too small" for me. I tell them "I'm in my 40's, Im here to have fun not win races and this is the most fun Ive ever had on any bike"
I agree 200 tbi will be a best seller the 150 is a good bike but most riders have a bit more weight and the extra torque will make a huge difference i will trade my 300 te tomorrow for a 200 tbi they will be light and agile 200s have always been the perfect balance good for pros and amateurs everyone is looking for a good ktm or husky 200 the old yamaha its and kdxs were the top sellers in their day
I just purchased the ktm 150 xcw tpi this is my first 2 stroke bike I am 6ft 2 in weight 225 pounds the bike has lots of power for me as a beginner. I’m really happy with my 150 I was really impressed how light and nimble the bike is. I ride a lot of mountain bikes and this bike feels like a mountain bike on steroids lol.
I agree, I think MTB skills transfer really well to low displacement two strokes. Since both are about keeping your momentum and being smooth. Larger displacement bikes are a lot more point and shoot. Especially the four strokes.
You should try a 300 trials bike some time. Trials bikes are basically mountain bikes with engines. The 300s are amazing at lugging in the low end and you can clear obstacles effortlessly. Especially since the 150 will teach you proper throttle and clutch modulation.
More than enough power for me. Sure there’s been a few times that I thought a little more power would be nice, but there’s also been plenty of times the power came on and has been more than I can handle. I’m very happy with my TE150.
@@DmitriyAdv absolutely! The low end definitely doesn’t make power, but I am still impressed with the torque right off idle… this is the first 2 stroke I’ve rode that I can let the clutch out with out any throttle and not stalling… anything else I’ve rode I really needed to give lots of throttle and ride the clutch out to save from stalling.
Im 225lbs and the most fun Ive ever had at my local track in the 15 years Ive bene going was on my 2006 YZ150 (overbore). Ive owned 250 two and four strokes and 450 fours and I will chose a 125/150 every day. Just so much damn fun. I decided to get a trail bike to try trails and there were three TE's in the showroom.. 150, 200(or 250) and I think a 300 and I bought the 150. I was really impressed with the low mid torque and how easy it was to lug around. I brought my YZ one day to try it in trails and it was a nightmare lol... so hyper and twitchy and no low end power made it a chore. They really did a good job with the motor for what its intended for which is trails and enduro. Ive not taken it to the track but i imagine with proper suspension valving id love it.
I agree, the torque down low this engine has is very impressive for a small bore. I was very happy with the chassis and suspension as well, I think they did a great job tuning it for trail and enduro riding. They forks are a simple design, but I feel like they really dialed in the damping on the later models. I know some people think they're too soft (and maybe for some terrains they are), but for the woods around here they work great out of the box. Based on mine and my riding friends experience, you have to be an A class racer before you start out riding them.
@@DmitriyAdv i know how you feel dimitriy!I write a pretty good e mail after umpteen edits !On a happier note found a KTM 525 EXC and in contact with the buyer.will let you know how things progress😀
It's hilarious, I did an open class endure race with a WR250R and passed multiple KTM 450's even a 701( I have a video of it on my channel) .. The truth is nobody needs more than 35HP on a dirtbike to be fast anyting past that becomes a handful to control and is just overkill.
Ive had a ktm 150 tpi for a few years now and i absolutely love it! i ride the same trails and climbs as my buddies on 300s. The things to be aware of are the bike requires lots of shifting to keep you in the powerband, and you'll be changing the top and bottom ends way more often than on a 250 or 300 since it requires higher rpms to ride on harder trails. That's the only reason i'll be going up to a 250 later this year (Just did my top and bottom end at 148 hours).
It all depends on how you ride it. It's not a lugger like a 250 or a 300, but I like to keep it out of the high RPMs most of the time since it just spins up and looses traction. I've just done my first top end at 102 hours (see part 3 of the this long term review). Things look about the same as my old 300 with the same hours. I've heard quite a few people not bothering to do the top ends until 200+ hours if they're just trail riding.
Yea, it depends what and where you ride.. I ride lots of hard enduro type stuff here in Squamish, as well as the occasional track here and there. I probably could've pushed it to 170-180 hours, but figured might as well get it done before getting stuck somewhere
@@rowynmaddocks6731 smaller displacent is easier to throw around but requires more maintenance.. just got a 300 and figure i can go 250 hours or more before doing a top end 🤷♂️
I had a 2021 and I can tell you that I miss it a lot...possibly I will return to this displacement, with 60 years of age I am looking for fun...greetings
Im 115kg and have had a 2020 KTM150 exc tpi for almost a year now. The most fun bike Ive ever owned and easiest to ride. I can keep up with a crew of 300cc truck drivers in hard enduro rides easily.
Personally thinking about picking one of these up and upgrading from my 06 300xcw... I started on a yz125 and went right to the 300 and I feel that I was a better rider on the 125 because you had to be and the 300 you can cheese your way out of user error however I'm scared to ride the 300 at its full potential because there is plenty enough power to mess you up haha.. I want fuel injection and E-start...
You described exactly the reason I went from a 300 to a 150. I definitely gained confidence to try stuff on the smaller bore bike and you do really have to have your stuff together going up hills or over obstacles.
when i rode a demo, I thought it ran pretty good If you play with the clutch and keep the RPMs up ,,it comes out of the corners well not like my 300 but i wash impressed.. just need to know how to ride it I ride pretty fast ,,,, a very good 62 year old intermediate so this is how i ride all my bikes
Yes it has enough power, I still prefer my 300 as I almost exclusively ride HE and I can be lazier and conserve energy more easily 🙂 The 150 is more than enough bike for most people!
100% agreed! The 300 is the easiest bike to ride if you need to ride all day and save energy. The 150 is confidence inspiring, but is definitely a lot more physical.
Hey mate. Great video. Really well explained. I was toying with the idea of a 150 2t or 300 or a 350 4t. Have you ridden a 350? But i think a 150 2t will be the go
I own a KTM 350 EXC-F and have a couple friends with them (including a 2024 model), so I get to ride them quite a bit. They are great bikes, probably one of the best all around bikes there is. They are a very different animal from a small bore two stroke however - they feel much heavier and you have to be a bit more "intentional" when riding them.
@@DmitriyAdv I know. Without riding them. You can only gather so much information from other people. A bit of everything. Single track. Enduro. And a wide open dirt roads/tracks. I’m on the fence for the 150 2t or 350 4t I think. Other option I floated was the 701 for more adv riding. And the ease of riding it on the roads.
@@Mjmarusic it's a hard choice because they're all good! So you might have to focus on what they're not good at to make your decision... or just try one, enjoy it for a few years, then get something else... you're not married to it forever! The 150 will have the edge on the 350 in tight single track, it'll feel lighter and be more fun to ride. While it can do it, the 150 sucks on the road at anything above 40-45mph. I've done a few enduros on mine where we had long road transfer sections, and at 55mph it's singing pretty good. It has the power, but the gearing is pretty short/low, so you're on the pipe at those speeds. So if you plan on doing road riding of any sort of distance, a 350 would be a better choice in my opinion. At 50-55mph it's actually kind of enjoyable, and it will cruise 65 for a bit if needed.
Ive never had so much fun riding than on a 150. My bike was down 1 weekend and a 150 was lended to me. I thought right away that this was going to be brutal. Boy was i wrong!!! That bike went everywhere the 300's went. Being able to ride a bike to its full potential was a feeling of incrdibel joy. Fully tapped out in first second third for the majority of time. if i did that on a 250 or 300 I'd be dead. The slow stuff was great too. I high centered myself on a log in a river. I thought ok now im in trouble, lets see what happens. Well a little hip thrust forward with some gas and a little clutch that bike went up and over that log like nothing. My jaw dropped!! And i wasnt even tired when we got back to the the trucks. My friends on their 300's were exhausted. It was a huge ego check for me.
Hey! Very interesting review! I'm looking for a small 2 strokes bike to learn enduro technics that I'm too afraid to do on my 250 4 strokes... I don't want to pay too much so I was looking at the KX112 but at the moment, no dealers close to me has one... I could have a good deal on the TE150 2023, I guess it'd be a good choice to learn and practice since it asks "more control" than a 250 or 300?
I had a KX100 (basically the same as the KX112) for a lady friend before and it's an awesome bike except for two things - (1) For really technical terrain the COMPLETE lack of low end torque is a problem. If the hill is steep enough you are literally not going up it off the pipe even in 1st gear. On the pipe it's pretty hard to keep traction. (2) No e-start can make it kind of frustrating for technical riding. You drop the bike upside down on a hill and then have to kick it a billion times because it's flooded. The TE150i solves both of those issues. It's geared very low and has good low end torque, so it crawls almost as good as a 250/300 in 1st gear. It has e-start (and a kick starter). It will definitely teach you to be a better rider than just getting a 250/300 as you have to shift more, be much more active with the clutch to manage traction. It's also much more confidence inspiring since it feels much lighter and easier to ride in technical terrain.
@@DmitriyAdv I think I have everything I need in your response! Thank you very much :) It might be worth it to pay some extra $$$ and have a bike more adapted for what I want! Glad you knew a bit about the KX100 because I couldn't find much info about it in the enduro world since it's a motocross bike ahah!
Sure thing! The KX is a great bike, but even with a flywheel weight and other enduro mods it's not as capable in offroad terrain as the Husky. I don't know how tall you are, so the small size might be an advantage for seat height, but the smaller wheels are a definitely disadvantage when it comes to going over rough terrain (logs, rocks...etc).
@@DmitriyAdv My height and strengh were other reasons why I targeted the KX over full size bikes, I'm 5'5" and 140pounds so to have both feet on the ground the KX was kind of the best option with its 34.4" seat height. Most of the full size bikes are at 37-38"... Plus the KX weight 170pounds which is extremely light! But still, I'll do some more research on the TE 150 and I'll try to go at a dealer to seat on one to have the feeling before buying 😁
@@MiissSomeone The Husqvarnas have some of the lowest seats of full sized bikes. It's not going to be as low as the KX, but it's better than others. They can also be lowered via factory parts. Being able to plant your feet is definitely a bonus in technical terrain.
Hi Dmitriy, I love your videos and explanations. I´m writing from Spain. I ride a Husqy 300i since 2019 for HE and single track mainly. I weight only 65 kilos and now I have just bought a TE 15i 2022 as yours. I agree 100% in all your comments. it is very Nimble, light and fun for riding. It has some limitations compare with the 300 especially in very steep hills and also in high boulder. Both can be done with the 150i but require an expert hands. If you are a pro is a delicious. In the other hand there is an issue with the consumption. I usually ride with my friends and all of then go with 250i and 300i. No problem for keeping their pace but the revs you have to use is so hi and I only can run 80 kilometers ( 50 miles) and this is a problem. I am thinking to install a bigger tank. Have you had this problem? Thank You!
Glad you're enjoying the videos and thanks for the comment. I've definitely had the same experience as you when it comes to fuel consumption. I think the 150 is the best running TPI bike out of the factory, partially because it seems to run a bit more rich than the 250 or 300. If I'm cruising, off the pipe, I can get 60 miles no issue. If I'm riding very aggressively (racing enduro, for example), it goes down to as low as 30-35 miles.
I ride a yz250x.. rode a 150 and found it to be pretty gutless(sorry if that’s too harsh)..was fun but not my cup o tea.. Still a great bike and I know many that love them.. they should make it smaller like the beta is 15% smaller.
Compared to a 250 two stroke it definitely has much less power. Especially if you’re used to riding in a certain way. It took me a bit of getting used to coming off of a 300 two stroke, but I’m sure it made me a better rider overall.
Unfortunately , not any more. Beta took the same line as KTM. 200rr and 300rr share same chases. older small displacement models was based on 125 platforms. BTW husky te150 before tpi was 11mm shorter wheel base. Rode both 200rr racing 2022 and own 150i 2021, totally different machines
I don't get it, sorry. If you aren't sacrificing weight or size, why not get the 300? I've ridden with 2 guys who got these and got rid of them after about 6 months and got the 300. This is for hard enduro terrain in Hawaii. Super muddy, long steep hills, rocky river sections. They thought they would be more nimble, lighter, etc. They didn't get that and they were bogging out or spinning the tire becuase they had to keep it up in the revs.
I got it because it’s a much more engaging motorcycle to ride and makes you a better rider. Sharpen the edge so to speak. It’s also super confidence inspiring to try stuff. Also, while the 300 is the king of hard enduro, very few people actually ride that kind of terrain. Many just want to ride fun flowy stuff, which the small bore bikes are a blast on!
@@DmitriyAdv You're probably right. We ride the hard stuff and it's all I know so that probably cotributes to my lack of understanding. What I find the 300 essential in is, mud and low traction situations. The ability to lug is critical. That, and at the top of a long, steep hill when you can back off the throttle and then pull yourself up over the top.
@@midgetmoney1 100% agree that for the situations you describe a 300 is king. If you watch my newest video I just picked up a GasGas EC300 for exactly that hard-enduro-riding reason. 😉
I'm ride a te300i and want to get the Mrs a te150i, she rides very lazy (respectfuly) in the sense that she lugs her 4t around, however it's 140kgs (klx300) would you say you can lug this in beginner/intermediate trails still, obviously there will be adjustment but manageable or does this need to always be in the sweet spot? Cheers.
She can absolutely lug this bike. It lugs better than many 4 strokes, especially in lower gears, and the TPI will make it run at very low RPMs without stalling.
I'm not sure I'm qualified to teach wheelies haha. It's the same technique as on any other bike. The proper way to do a slow speed/controlled wheelie is to use the suspension of the bike and then give it a slight bit of throttle/clutch. You can hear in the video that my RPMs are very low. In a nutshell - If you're going from a stationary, move your weight all the way forward on the bike to compress the forks, then all the way to the back of he the seat. Practice this with the engine off until you can get the front wheel to come off the ground with just that weight transfer motion. Once you got that, you can add the throttle/clutch slipping to get the front wheel higher in the air. Cover the rear break to stop the wheelie at the balance point. It takes MANY MANY hours of practice. People on youtube misrepresent this. Don''t be disappointed if you can't get it right away and keep practicing.
@@DmitriyAdv awesome. Thank you for the response and for posting the video. I bought this bike as my first bike and wasn't sure if it was possible or if I just sucked. lol. Your video gave me a lot of hope, and I'll keep practicing using your tips.
@@DmitriyAdv I’ve got several hours in and still struggle to hold a wheelie… the power band of 2-stroke makes is less predictable and challenging to wheelie. I’m either not making enough power, or making more than I want. One day I will get there.
@@JMKGarage keep practicing! For slow wheelies it's all about balance and clutch control, not power. If you watch any of the pros doing slow wheelies, they're barely off idle. Once you get to the balance point, you really need very little power to maintain it. PS: I'm too old/scared for sustained wheelies at speed. My front wheel only comes off the ground at speed long enough to clear an obstacle, that's it 😅
As far as your size goes - both the 150 and 250 are the same size. The 150 is a little bit lighter, so if weight is critical to you, the 150 is a good choice. But it really all depends on what kind of riding you do and how you like to ride... A few things to maybe help you make up your mind - if you do a lot of road and higher speed stuff - the 250 is the way to go for sure - wider gearing and more power. If you do a lot of really slippery conditions, having a bigger engine can help as well as it lugs and holds traction better. The 150 is a great learning tool and is arguably more fun to ride because of it's lighter weight and more playful nature.
About to get 2024 150 TE... I am 100kg, 185cm and wondering will my weight "torture" the bike and demand quicker rebuilds/clutch plates? What about getting heavier clutch plates/weights for lugging/tractoring better, including 12/50 sprockets?
I don't think your weight will torture the bike. I have a few friends your weight on 125's and they love them. FYI the 2024 150 has a new TBI engine and might have different gearing/sprockets than the TPI bikes. I ended up going down one tooth in the front on my TE150 and it made a big difference for hard enduro type riding. Made 2nd gear right about perfect for the gnarly stuff.
Great question, ultimately it's up to each individual person and what they're looking to do. I had a 300 before this bike, and went down to a 150 specifically for the following reasons - * To learn to be a better rider. The 300 is a bit of a "cheater" bike. I didn't really need to shift, didn't need to use the clutch as much or as as precisely. Didn't need to carry momentum in corners or up hills. Just put it in 3rd gear and twist the throttle. * A smaller cc two stroke bike is super fun to ride. It's light, it's nimble, and I can actually ride it on the pipe without immediately going into outer space. * A smaller cc bike is much more confidence inspiring to me because it's easier to manage when things go wrong. I'm more confident to try crazy obstacles because of this. I go over this in one of my other video a bit as well - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--6V-1kZtUZ0.html
One thing that’s confused me as it’s the same chassis, why is it listed as having 12mm shorter wheel base than the FE250? I believe it’s the same but I can’t see how it’s shorter wheelbase but the specs for wheelbase list it as such.
Might be a two stroke vs 4 stroke thing? What year is your FE250? Ive done some measuring of a ‘21 GasGas EC300 and ‘20 KTM 250XCW, and they’re all nearly identical. Most of the difference in feel seems to come from the seat, bars, shape of plastic and PDS suspension on the KTM.
So what gearing , what map is it on and has the ecu been re-flashed how many hrs on piston what rear tire and pressure is it l have spent just over 100 hrs setting up a 2019 sherco se 125 and lm 82kgs + gear doing hard enduro and it's doing the job very well does have a shorter wheel base than a 300 so l did a slight mod on swing arm to get axel as far back as possible l run 12 t front and 52 rear for goat country but it only weighs 94 kgs and the short wheel base is great for extreme terrain jetting is a crucial point 40 pilot 165 main N1EH needle from 150 metres up to around 600 metres the NECH needle is also a good option especially for 250/300 this would change if going under or over these elevations l bought the bike cheap as an experiment and it's fun to ride but you can't afford to be lazy on it like a 300 so l have been putting a piston kit in it every 30 hrs and would think about bottom end rebuild around 150 + hrs but it has 106 hrs on it and still has howne marks in the bore so will see how it goes
100% stock engine/ecu with ~100 hours. Stock piston. I did the top end slightly later (see Part 3), it looked no different than the my last 300 at the same hours. Everything inside looked great in general. I was running it with stock gearing in the video. I recently changed to a 12 tooth front sprocket for actual hard enduro races to allow me to use 2nd gear more. I didn't really think it was necessary unless I was spending a lot of time climbing really steep and slick/loose stuff. I've been running an IRC VE33s rear tire with a Nitromousse plushie. Good general purpose tire since it works pretty well at higher speeds as well. I cover a bunch of this in the other parts of the review if you'd like more details as well.
The biggest things you’ll notice is that it feels much lighter and more flickable, has no engine braking, and less low end torque. You’ll also notice much less and much easier maintenance
@@DmitriyAdv thanks for the reply. I wish KTM would bring back the 200 2 stroke with fuel injection. Ill most likely stick with the 250 four stroke until I feel the need for more power and get a 200 or 250 2 stroke.
@@phantomsky8592 I had a 2013 KTM 200 for a few years and the 150 actually feels pretty similar to it power wise. A bit less low end, but overall very similar character
It depends - have you ridden a motorcycle/dirtbike before? Despite being a 150, it is a full size (full height) dirtbike, so the seat height is comparable to other full size dirtbikes. If being able to plant both feet on the ground is important to you - you won't be able to do it on a TE150i or a KTM 150. If you don't care about touching the ground - it's a great bike and you'll be super happy with it!
I own a 2007 KTM 300 EXC, a 2022 Rieju 300, a 2011 ktm 125 exc and a ktm electric. The 125 is not up to the 300. You can feel the 10hP less (according to dynos, a 150 has the same power than a 125) at maximum rpm. Obviously, the 300's wins in the rest of the rpm range hands down. Not comparable bikes.
You are absolutely correct - of course a 300 has more power with twice the displacement, that was never in question. However a 150 is more than enough power for most people, unless they're doing gnarly hill climbs or fast / wide open riding. 300 is WAY more than enough. A 150 has a lot more bottom end torque than a 125 by the way, even if the peak power is the same.
Im 6'3 about 205lbs ive been on a kx 112 and it's definitely to small for me how do you think this bike would fit me i kinda newer to dirt bikes but love trail riding
A TE150 would definitely fit you better. To put it bluntly - A KX112 is a kids dirtbike. The frame/suspension...etc... is all designed for a smaller human (child, or a very small man or woman). A TE150 is designed for adults. The frame/suspension is the same as all the other full size enduro bikes in their lineup. At your height you should have zero issues with seat height on it and it will be MUCH more comfortable for you to ride.
@@cclaw266 "outgrowing" power on a modern dirtbike is not really a thing, so I would not worry about it. Even most pros will say that they can barely ride a 125 to it's full potential. It's all about the what character of an engine you want - 125/150 is light and lively feeling. Lots of power on the pipe. You ride it at higher RPMs. 300 is more about lugging down low. 250 is in the middle.
In my opinion, the answer is - it depends. "Hard enduro" means very different things to different people... are you riding gnarly terrain, or racing? Generally speaking, any of these bikes have enough power, the issue in hard enduro most of the time is maintaining traction.
@@DmitriyAdv gnarly terrain I ended up buying a 1991 yamaha wr250z 2 stroke great condition besides the rear plastic only 10 hours on the motor the bike lugs so low I love it I can climb anything
@@IdahoDirtBiker9908 there is a guy I ride with occasionally around here with one. He loves it for the really gnarly climbs! As mentioned in here a bunch already, Yamaha and Kawasaki are missing out on not releasing newer versions of the WR and KDX two strokes... those things were true gnarly terrain "mules". I love the modern enduro bikes, but they're definitely more of a "race horse", which many average riders don't want.
Are you using the cold start / high idle knob? I usually pull that and let it warm run for a maybe a minute, then start riding. I've only ever fouled one plug in 120ish hours I had the bike.
I live in a hot climate where the temperature rarely goes below the 10 degree C threshold stated in the manual to use the cold start knob. Do you use it if it's not cold enough as specified in the manual?
@@tacoooooo11111 Yep, I'd typically use it even if it's warm outside. The ECU will put in extra fuel until the coolant temp reaches a certain level (per manual), opening the cold start knob adds extra air. This helps keep the mixture from becoming too rich, which is what fouls the plug, especially at low RPMs and engine temp.
Had the same problem. Just use cold start button until rads are hot. Wont hurt the bike. You can even ride around with the cold start out until up to temp. I fouled 3 or 4 pugs at start up not using it and since using it no issue. It leans out the mixture till the temp gets up stopping plug fouling @@tacoooooo11111
Depends on where you ride, if you ride trails or smaller places that does not have big hills the 150 is ok. But if you ride big places that has big hills, especially big sand hills, the 150 will not have enough power to get you up those hills. I know a gravel pit where people ride and a lot of the hills are so big even some 250's have trouble getting up them because they are mostly sand. The best thing to do is get a 250 or bigger, then it will climb most hills you will run into, except the really big hills. The only way I would ever get a 150 anything is if I mostly rode it on flat ground that does not have any big hills on it. And you should also be aware that the 150 is rode at higher rpm's so it will need a top end rebuild more often. Do yourself a favor and get a 250 or a 300, you will not regret it.
Like you said, it depends on where and how you ride. Where I live in the midwestern US there aren't many hills, just thousands of miles of tight woods trails. The 150 is a weapon for that, especially for aggressive riders. It's a blast to hustle through the woods! I've climbed plenty of sand hills on it - mud, sand, rocks...etc. It will do it, just needs to be on the pipe. I run out of traction long before I run out of power. The 250/300 climbs a bit easier because you can keep it off the pipe and maintain traction better without using the clutch. But that's where the 150 is a great learning tool - you have to use the clutch to maintain traction.
The frame is the same dimensions as the 250/300. I've measured them :) The frame engine mounting tabs and the engine itself are different, but everything else is the same as the 250/300. Plastics, seat, rads, fuel tank, pegs/bars/controls, brakes, suspension (different shims and springs for lighter weight), wheels...etc.
It's not really a question of does it have enough power You can go pretty much anywhere on a 125/150 class bike. It's more a question of how long will the clutch last. This class bike has traditionally been aimed at 11-15 year olds and/or guy's who love riding the power band, i.e. fast. Not much good for tight trails, hill's, long rides or sight seeing.
I disagree. I think a 150 is a great bike for super tight trails or pretty much anything. It might be a bit more work in some situations than a 300 because you have to shift gears a bit more, but it's less work in others because of how nimble it is. Gnarlier hill climbs in my experience are more about traction than power, a 300 is a little easier on steep hills because the powerband is flatter and it's easier to maintain that traction, but to say a 150 is not good there is not accurate. Clutch work is required in pretty much any technical situation on any bike. Unless you're riding the clutch at high RPMs, modern dirtbike clutches last a long time. I'm at over 100 hours on the stock clutch, and 90% of my riding is very slow and technical. The modern KTM 150 is a very different animal compared to a 125 in my opinion. It's closer in character to a 200, with a lot more low end torque.
Haha, true, though it depends on the 300 and the gearing. Stock KTM XCW gears (much more spread out than the 150) - for sure! My old 300, I could ride all day in 3-4 gear, literally from a stop.
My *guess* is because of parts commonality/volume. The 150 shares the engine platform with the 125, a 200 would be a it's own thing, which doesn't make sense for KTM for a kind of a niche bike. Just a guess though.
I'm not sure I understand your comment? If you're saying I'm defending the 150 because I have that and not a 300 - I actually switched from a 2018 GasGas XC300 to the Husky TE150i. I could have gotten another 300, but I wanted to sharpen my skills, so I got the 150.
