Dog Training Tips and Tricks! Q&A With Nate Schoemer 

Awesome! I'm happy the video helped! :)

Thanks for sharing, I appreciate it. I love both breeds, each one has so much to offer. :)

Thanks! Yes, if people are willing to put in the time, most people can handle and raise a Malinois. The biggest factor is the time commitment. Cheers! :)

Awesome! I'm happy the video was helpful! :)

Awesome! Thanks, Jade! 😁🙏🐶🐕

Thank you so much, I really appreciate that and I'm happy the videos are helpful. :)

Awesome! I'm happy the training videos were helpful. Thank you for the comment and for supporting the channel!

That's so awesome, Sara! Thank you for sharing that, it means a lot. :)

Awesome! I'm happy to hear that the training technique has helped. :)

Glad it was helpful! :)

Hi Wilson! Thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate that! That's so awesome! Thank you for sharing your training journey. I love to hear about people have success with their dog training. :)

My parents took me to a very fancy and impressive restaurant.

Thanks I appreciate that and I'm happy you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for supporting the channel! :)

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for supporting the channel :)

Thanks Ronnie! I'm happy the videos are helping! :)

Thank you Ray!

Awesome! Thanks, Jeff! :) I'm happy the videos are helping!

That's awesome! Thanks for sharing David, and I'm sure you and your family are going to do a great job training the new pup. 😁🐶🐕

@@NateSchoemer Thank you sir!

Thanks! I appreciate that and thank you for supporting the channel! :)

Thanks, I appreciate that! :)

My Pleasure and thank you for supporting the channel! :)

Awesome! I'm happy the Q&A video has proven to be helpful!

Awesome! I'm glad the video has proven to be helpful! :)

Thanks, will do! :)

Thanks. I'm happy the video was helpful. :)

Thank you, Patrick! It's a pleasure to share my love for dog training. :)

My pleasure. Thanks for supporting my channel! :)

My pleasure. Thanks again for supporting the channel Kevin! :)

Awesome! Thank you! I'll have more GSD videos in the future. :)

Thanks, Juvittos! I appreciate that! :)

Glad you enjoyed it! :)

You're approaching the situation the right way by using a combination of desensitization and counterconditioning. To help your dog overcome their fear of elevators, try offering food only while the elevator is in motion. This will take many trips to the elevator as this will be the only place he eats. Alternatively, you can try using the elevator on a daily basis to help your dog get used to it. With consistent exposure, your dog will eventually realize that the elevator is not a big deal and will follow your lead. I had a similar experience with a dog a few years back who was terrified in public. Using a combination of desensitization and counterconditioning, I was able to fix the issue in just two weeks. I started by only feeding the dog and doing obedience training outside of the house, gradually moving to more locations with slightly more activity. As the dog's confidence increased, we went to even more locations with more activity. By the second week, we were doing obedience training inside of a local Home Depot and a Petsmart. It's important to remember that I did not feed the dog in the house where they were comfortable. I wanted the dog to associate the public locations with the pleasant experience of training and food rewards. I hope this helps. :)

Thanks! That's going to be part of my puppy imprinting series. You can see my future RU-vid videos here: www.nateschoemer.com/future-videos :)

Thanks, I appreciate that and great suggestion! :)

Glad you liked it!! :)

Ihad to stay in a car for 8 hours on the way to my grandparents because of heavy trafnc.

Thanks, Ken! :)

Thank you!

Thanks! I'm happy the video has proven to be helpful! :)

No doubt captain 🌷👌👍

we are so excited and awaiting your awesome effort to complete the tricks playlist , only the weave video uploaded here., Regards and thanks alot in advance 🌷🌷

Thanks for sharing! :)

Thank you for taking that time to give them that enrichment! 💕 I do the same and wish people would do that more instead of just trying to teach them not to dig, poor dogs!

Ihad a very specialholiday when |was 10.

Lol! Thanks!

Thanks! Yes, training should be fun and ongoing. It's a great way to continue to bond with your dog. :)

Thank you! I'm happy the videos are helping. Sorry to hear about having a stalker though, that can be a very scary situation. If you haven't done so already, you may want to report the person to the police.

@@NateSchoemer Oh Yes done That already He was in prison for 14yrs but just let out. I have a permanent Restraining order.. I would also want her to be My Protection GSD :) Thank you

Thanks! It sounds like you're going to be a really good trainer. Feel free to leave questions in the comments section anytime you need some extra guidance. Cheers!

Wow! Thank you, Rena! :)

Thanks, Omar! :)

Thanks! I'm happy the videos have been helpful. Yes, either option will work. As long as you have eyes on your puppy, you can have him out of the crate. If you can't watch him, then the crate is the best option. You just don't want the puppy to practice any bad behaviors while you're not watching. :)

My Pleasure and thank you!

Thanks and great suggestion. The footage was from a dog I trained a few years back and not part of any of my instructional videos. :)

Wonderful!

I just use the dogs name like normal. Overtime they all learn their name with no issues. You can also say the dogs name before a command to get their attention. I hope this helps. 😁🐶🐕

Thanks, I appreciate that. I'm from Chicago, live in LA, and have two dogs. A Malinois and a fox red British Lab. :)

Thanks for commenting and watching this video. Unfortunately, I no longer have enough time to answer every question in the comments section of my RU-vid videos. However, you can always send me questions through my Patreon. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer Most of the questions asked have already been answered in one of my past videos. The basic obedience series has been designed to be watched to maximize results. I would also suggest watching my Q&A videos that are available on my channel as well. Many of the questions are also answered in my dog training manual, which is available on Amazon. amzn.to/2P2tyQH Lastly, if you're curious about what food, treats, or training products that I use, you can see them listed here: www.nateschoemer.com/store Thanks again, and happy training!

My pleasure and thanks for watching! :)

Thank you, Salman! :)

The video on loose leash walking is available in my Facebook group. The links are provided below. I took it down because it received a lot of praise, but it also received some hate because of the pressure used. I will be making an updated version in the future. Video: facebook.com/NateSchoemer/videos/998409530599229/ Group: facebook.com/groups/NateSchoemers

@@NateSchoemer Thanks for the reply. Can't wait for the updated video :)

Thanks for commenting and watching this video. Unfortunately, I no longer have enough time to answer every question in the comments section of my RU-vid videos. However, you can always send me questions through my Patreon. www.patreon.com/NateSchoemer Most of the questions asked have already been answered in one of my past videos. The basic obedience series has been designed to be watched to maximize results. I would also suggest watching my Q&A videos that are available on my channel as well. Many of the questions are also answered in my dog training manual, which is available on Amazon. amzn.to/2P2tyQH Lastly, if you're curious about what food, treats, or training products that I use, you can see them listed here: www.nateschoemer.com/store

*Update* We changed our mind and decided not to get a husky mix but then 2 months later Montreal adoption organization Animatch called us about a GSD x Husky 8 week old puppy and we adopted! She was rescued with her mum and 4 siblings from North Québec, Whapmagoostui. Apparently pretty much all dogs from there have husky in them. Our puppy Suki may have malamute too, which I think would make her a king shepherd or close. She's wonderfully tempered, intelligent, sweet and fluffy. At 9 weeks old now she's heeling around our neighborhood with the leash trailing (kibble in hand of course) and just overall doing fantastic. She'll have climb, down and spin in no time. Nate, thanks again for your gift of training knowledge. 4 months ago I knew nothing about dog training and now I have knowledge and confidence to raise this brilliant pup I think in the best way. Please keep the videos coming, we will certainly schedule zoom with you if ever we can't figure something out. You are so appreciated 💛

I adopted a husky x shepherd mix at 7 years from a young family. All he needed to improve on was some leash training. He lived another 10 years before he needed euthanasia. Buzz was an excellent dog. He had an ear shattering howl, but that was only during high levels of excitement. He was gentle with children. Deadly with squirrels. He chased my cats for awhile but after a few scratches on the snout they made their peace. I took him on long walks twice a day and took him along when I was doing landscape work. Occasionally a stray dog would run up to attack him. Buzz sent them running away so fast that I never could see exactly how he managed it. He was instantly calm again after the short fracas. That was his most wonderful characteristic, good judgment and even temperament. He never did more than was needful in a given situation.

With a puppy or a new dog in training, I will often start with a high-quality dry food during the training process. I also usually give the puppy raw goat milk from answers, to help ensure the dog is getting enough quality nutrition. If I don't have enough time for a training session, then I soak the kibble in water or raw goat milk and stuff it into a kong or raw bone, then freeze it. In addition, I train with freeze-dried dog food, but that can be very pricey. amzn.to/2W88zMf Usually, a high-quality kibble will be okay. I transition them to raw when all the main training is completed and used the freeze dried dog food while training.

Thanks! It's called a marker because you're marking a moment in time. If your dog is looking at you when you mark, then it's okay for the dog to turn their head to get the treat. You can see an example of it in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ph4ltXDVhHQ.html

Haha! Awesome! Yeah, I made the same mistake with Arih using stand and spin. Now I use the word post for my stand command. :)

Hi Chloe! Below are the answers to your questions. I hope they help and thanks for supporting the channel. :) 1) If you're training a dog that has a very large bank account and the dog needs reliable obedience, then I would suggest trying a herm Sprenger pinch collar. If that's not strong enough, then the next option is a remote collar. Contrary to popular opinion, the remote training collar is the safest most effective training collar available. However, you really need to know how to use it correctly or you can cause more harm than good. If you feel you need to use this collar, send me a text and I'll give you a call when I have a spare moment. You can find my number on my website: NateSchoemer.com 2) Yes, I was referring to toys such as tug toys and balls. Things that are designed for the dog to chew on is fine to leave out. However, I wouldn't leave out anything unsupervised that the dog can choke on or things that are not designed to eat.

Thanks! I would make sure the pup is trained and very sensitive to the leash pressure/cues. Then while I'm on a walk, I would teach the dog to focus on me. If the dog leaves the heel position, then I would reinforce it with the leash pressure. If the dog started barking, I would reinforce the sit with leash pressure. I would be showing the dog what I would like them to do in any given situation. If you can't control the pup with the leash pressure, then you're too close to the stimuli. If that's the case, you would have to increase the distance until the dog becomes more comfortable. Confidence building helps prevent a dog from having fear issues, but what if those issues are already present in our dog? This is when we use counterconditioning and desensitization. Counterconditioning is very similar to confidence building, but the main difference is that we use counterconditioning to help a dog overcome something they may be afraid of. For example, your dog is afraid of the vacuum cleaner: • Expose the dog to the vacuum cleaner while it’s turned off. • Reward the dog with high value rewards just for being comfortable with the vacuum cleaner. The dog will start to associate the vacuum cleaner with high value rewards. • Start moving the vacuum cleaner around the carpet (turned off). Again, reward the dog for behaving and being comfortable, but not if they’re barking at it. • Turn the vacuum cleaner on, then off, treating it like a marker. Reward the dog. • Keep turning it on and off, and eventually leave it on, and reward the dog. Now, the dog will no longer associate the vacuum cleaner negatively at all. You can also simulate the sound on your phone by starting at a low volume and gradually increasing it as the dog becomes more confident. Here’s another few examples: When I'm training a sports protection dog, they have to become desensitized to gunshots, because one of the exercises requires the dog to bite the decoy (person in bite suit) while the decoy is firing a blank pistol. We do this by first firing the blank pistol at a distance that doesn't trouble the dog. As the dog becomes more comfortable with the sound, we slowly, over time (could be weeks or even months), bring the gunshots closer and closer to the dog, until the dog isn't bothered by it at all. Keep in mind that each dog will take a different amount of time to learn a new behavior or increase in confidence. I had a dog that I was working with a few years back that was terrified in public, and in two weeks I was able to fix the issue. Here's what I did with that dog using a combination of desensitization and counter conditioning: First I ONLY fed the dog and did obedience outside of the house. The first day I was in my front yard training, as the days progressed, I slowly moved to more locations with slightly more activity. As the dog's confidence continued to go up, we went to even more locations with more activity. By the second week I was doing obedience with the dog inside of a local Home Depot and a Petsmart. It's important to keep in mind that I did not feed the dog in the house where the dog was comfortable. I wanted the dog to associate the public locations with the pleasant experience of training and food rewards. The idea is to be on the same team as your dog, rather than having a relationship based on fear, or the belief that the owner needs to be the "alpha". Proper socialization early in the dog’s life will also help with confidence building. We’ll discuss proper socializing in the next chapter. I hope this helps!

@@NateSchoemer This helps alot Nate, thanks alot! I have actually started slightly on obedience and she is actually getting it, aswell as some leashe pressure (mainly to make walks easier) but i will try and use some of these tips aswell! I would preferably go from a distance from dogs to decentisize her to it but it is difficult at this time, and i dont know the people who own these dogs personally either! I will definitely find a way tho, me and Molly are getting closer by the day and we are working as a team thats for sure. As she is an older dog (8years) i thought it would be more difficult to get her attention but she is so food driven it is actually crazy to work with her. Now i should probably focus on getting the heel and having her full attention, before i work on her behaviour with other dogs! That might work. Thanks as always Nate, u dont know it but u may have inspired a future dog whisperer right here hopefully! Dogs are so much fun!

My pleasure. The training collar will depend on the dog and your goals. If you want to us a prong collar. First we have to make sure that the prong collar is properly fitted to our dogs. The prong collar will come with multiple links that can be removed or added to get the proper fit. The collar should rest comfortably on your dogs neck directly underneath the dogs ears and jawline, and not so loose that it hangs like a necklace. Each dog has their own correction level. Some dogs only require a very low correction while others may need a higher correction. When I start adding corrections in a dogs training routine, I first start with the martingale collar. If I correct the dog with a leash pop on the martingale collar and the dog continues the undesired behavior, then we have to move up to a prong collar. The reason for this is that you can only pop the leash so hard before you would start physically harming the dog. Since we don’t want to harm our dogs, we must move to a collar that is designed to give a higher correction. The process for teaching the prong collar is the same as it is with the martingale collar. The main difference is that it can deliver a higher correction without harming the dog. Start by teaching your dog leash pressure with the prong collar, make sure you first teach them leash pressure with a flat or martingale collar. Even though your dog already knows leash pressure, you would still want to go through the full leash pressure training process. It’s important that your dog knows how to stop the pressure from the collar at any given time. However, unlike using a martingale collar for leash pressure, the prong collar can turn the training into a combination of negative reinforcement and positive punishment. The pressure from the collar combined with the prongs pinching can create this effect. Now we can use the prong collar with the leash pop style correction as mentioned earlier. Safely using a remote-training collar. In the event, that you are required to use one or you want off-leash reliability, it’s important to understand how they work so that they can be used safely, in which case read onward: Most remote collars have a few options. Let’s go over them. 1) Stim - The stimulation that comes from the collar. This is a muscle stimulator, so it can safely be used in water as well. 2) Test or Vibrate - This can be a tone or a vibration of the collar. Some trainers will use this before they correct the dog, treating this as a conditioned correction. I’ve used the vibration when working with deaf dogs as a marker. I’ve also used it as a recall command. 3) Nic - This is a split second stimulation from the collar 4) Continuous - If you press this button down, it will continue to stimulate the collar up to 15 seconds or so, depending on the brand. 5) Light - Some remote collars offer a light setting for the collar. When you press this button it will turn the light on the collar. Recommended brands: My two preferred brands are Dogtra and E-collar technology. Recommended age; The earliest I would start a dog on remote collar training would be 5 month of age, but I prefer to start remote collar training when they are between 7-9 months of age. Using a remote training collar for obedience: This is going to be different then when we use a remote collar for behavioral issues. When using one for obedience first you must make sure your dog knows what’s expected of them, they have been given a clear path to success, you have taught them how to turn off pressure by complying and they know how to prevent the correction. If you have done this, then you can start the process. Before ever correcting your dog with the collar, you want to get them used to wearing it. For the first week, you want to put the remote collar on your dog randomly throughout the day. You have to make sure the collar is snug with both connectors touching the dog. This get’s them used to the new collar without creating any negative association to the collar. From my experience, if using Dogtra, most dogs work between 15 and 25 stimulations level. I prefer to start at the lower end and increase as needed. If I correct a dog at 15 and I don’t see a change of behavior, then I move the collar to 25. If I correct a dog at 15 and they react with discomfort, then I move down to 10. A simple rule to follow is to go up increments of 10 when the correction is not high enough for the dog you’re training and down increments of 5 when the correction is too high. However, each dog is going to be different, so adjust according to your dog. For example, you may find better results in increasing increments of 6 and decreasing increments of 3. First, it is important to make sure that your dog is directional to the remote training-collar before you use it without the leash. So for the first two weeks minimum, you're going to pair the leash pop with the stimulation from the collar. Meaning, the moment the leash pops, you will press the button on the collar to give your dog the correction. This will help show the dog that you are giving the correction, and the collar is not just some random bug biting them on the neck. When starting the process, have the leash attached to a flat or martingale collar. Follow the procedures that were explained earlier when adding corrections for obedience. For example; you ask your dog to down and your dog chooses not to go into the commanded position. The moment you notice this, you will say “no”, then you will pop the leash. The moment the leash pops, you will press the button on the remote collar. Also, make sure the leash pop is very light. The intention is to give the dog direction, not to also correct with the pop on the leash. In addition, if you pop too hard, the dog may not feel the stimulation from the remote collar. After two weeks of pairing the remote correction with the leash pop, you will test to see if the dog has become directional to the collar, which means your dog understands that it's a correction. You will place your dog on the climb command (without a leash), and you will wait till your dog breaks the command. The second your dog jumps off the climb; you will say "no," followed by a correction with the remote collar. Your dog will then do one of four things, either your dog will freeze in place, go back on the climb, signifying that he is directional, or he will come running to you or away from you, showing he is not directional. If he comes running to or away from you, you will not continue to correct. However, you will place the leash back on your dog and continue pairing the collar with the leash for another week, at which point you will again attempt to see if your dog is directional. Keep in mind that the correction level will change depending on the environment. If you’re in an environment with a lot of distraction, the correction level will most likely have to increase. In contrast, in a neutral environment the correction level may be decreased. Once your dog is directional, you have then reached the status of off-leash trained. Things to keep in mind when using a remote collar: 1. Do not keep a remote collar on your dog for longer than 8 hours max. Ideally, you don’t want to go beyond 4 hours. 2. Do not leave a remote collar on your dog when you are not supervising them. 3. Always check your dog's neck when you remove the collar to ensure your dog doesn't have an allergic reaction to the collar. 4. Make sure the collar is on and charged before placing it on your dog. 5. Unless you have advanced training on the remote collar, do not use the continuation button. 6. Be mindful of the collar’s settings. Do not accidentally corrected your dog at a level higher than what is required. When you should and should not correct your dog with the remote collar. There are times when you can correct your dog with the remote collar even when your dog isn't directional yet, and for behaviors unrelated to obedience training. You can use it to stop unwanted behaviors like digging, getting into the trash or any of the other unruly behaviors mentioned previously. The second your dog starts to dig or puts his nose into the garbage, you can activate the collar. This creates an unpleasant association to the problematic behavior. However, the important thing to remember is to never correct your dog with the remote collar if your dog is actively engaged with a dog or people. You do not want your dog to think that it's the other person or the other dog that is causing the correction with the collar. If you do, there is a possibility that the dog will develop aggression, so be mindful of that. In addition, as explained before, the remote collar is also used for creating reliability with all of the obedience commands, so long as the dog is directional to the collar at that point. Lastly; this should go without saying, but never use the remote collar on your dog in an attempt to stop a fearful behavior. As mentioned before, this would only make the fear worse. I hope this helps and thanks for supporting my channel.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OyhtpMaJX8U.html I hope this helps. Cheers!

German Shepherds are great dogs! :)

I just uploaded a video on resource guarding in my facebook group. Here is the group link: facebook.com/groups/NateSchoemers Here is the video link: facebook.com/NateSchoemer/videos/330785854909345

@@NateSchoemer Well it's a major bummer cause I closed out my fb account last year in all the madness!! :( Ugh.

Thanks for the kind words and for supporting the channel. For the first question, it depends on the dog's correction/training level and the level of training needed. I talk about this in detail in my training manual. Remember, everything our dogs do is based on motivation. They are either motivated to access something pleasant or motivated to prevent something unpleasant. Whichever factor is more motivating to the dog will determine the dog's behavior. If you want to learn more about this, check out my training manual: www.amazon.com/Nate-Schoemers-Dog-Training-Manual-ebook/dp/B07XRJJPQC For the second question; I agree with you, that doesn't make sense to ignore the puppy the first three days. If something doesn't make sense, it's probably because it doesn't make sense. Lol! I start bonding and training a puppy the moment I bring them home. I hope this helps! 😁🐶🐕

I agree! Lol! :)

I like to work on all the commands in each session. It makes it more fun. :)

Lol! That's interesting and worth trying for sure. Thanks and cheers! :)

Yes, these techniques will work on older dogs as well, since I teach the science to dog training. In regard to the science part, keep in mind that when you are training your dog the science is always the same; what varies between each dog are things like motivation, perseverance, intelligence, temperament, disposition, etc. Being able to adjust for each dog’s specific needs is considered the art of dog training. Because of this, not all techniques work on all dogs; and as a result, you have to be able to adjust accordingly. For example; a dog with a very high level of perseverance will continue to work through a difficult task to get a reward-while other dogs may give up early.

Thanks! That's a great suggestion. Maybe I can do something like that in a future video.

@@NateSchoemer since dogs hearing is better than ours does it hurt their ears to play load music. I love my music load. I’m getting a Rottweiler puppy and don’t want to hurt her ears.

Thanks again! Jump to 48:44 in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-csN7_7IwSlw.html

@@NateSchoemer well, so this is a rumor that is much widely spreaded then I thought. These kinds of city legends are too much, preventing us in socialization, confidence building etc. There people even thinking that we shouldn’t do flipping positions in order to not to harm the joints, until 18 month old... I see you girl has grown up to be super. Thank you for the reply.

Hi, Julie, Thanks for the comment and I'm happy you like the training videos. I don't have a video on how to teach a name to a puppy. I don't worry about that. I simply use the dogs name and overtime the dog will learn it. :)

Thanks! If you want to learn how to become a dog trainer, a great place to start would be a protection training club. Often many of the members are professional dog trainers and they are usually very happy to share what they know to other members. Check the links below to see if you have any clubs near you. Cheers! You can find protection clubs with the links below. French Ring Protection Sport: www.ringsport.org/index.php?pg=clubs IPO Protection Sport: www.germanshepherddog.com/events-new/ Protection Sport Association: psak9-as.org/psa-affiliated-club-list/ Mondioring Protection Sport: www.usmondioring.org/clubs/

Hi Chico! Yes, I have worked with a few, but they seem to be rarer as I don't see them very often. They can be a little stubborn and they are more independent than most dogs. The ones I worked with were high energy and smart. However, I had to spend more time to get them to really like the training. They reminded me of a smaller hypoallergenic malamute. Lol! I had fun working with them though! :)

@@NateSchoemer a smaller Malamute Lol!!! I'm about to get an 70days basenji puppy, and I've been watching your videos to learn, before he gets here.. I'm from Brazil and I don't find many trainers speaking portuguese. And many topics around training and feeding are still so contradicted and refuted all the time. An other polemic and still not very clear talk here in Brazil is about feeding raw food, and balancing the diet with natural food. do you think a Basenji, or all dogs would benefit using barf diet? Thanks !!! =)

Great questions. I'll be discussing these in my Q&A video tomorrow. Just check the description for where your question is located in the video. Thanks!

Hi.. u can always pause the video..then start again later on?

Excellent suggestion! I wish I thought of that. I'll definitely do that in the future. Cheers! :)

For sure. You can also use those small poppers you throw on the ground to get him used to pop sounds. :)

I got my puppy's favorite toy out as soon as the fireworks started, and made sure not to react myself. And when thunderstorms were forecasted, I made sure to REALLY tire him out an hour before they hit. Not sure if it was those measures, or just my dog's nature, but he's not fearful of loud noises.

Thanks! Check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bPkW3SWblfM.html

You can try counterconditioning and desensitization. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2FqRJdmvSPA.html :)

Thanks Candice! :)

Lol! Maybe being in the Marines and being a Drill Instructor helped with discipline. Just make the jumping a command and only allow the dog to jump when commanded to. If he jumps any other time, follow the steps in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-QSxy_EIYyoQ.html

I would have the parents enforce all the rules and expectations. Once the dog is trained and can walk nicely with the parents, they can walk the dog together. Have two leashes and two collars on the dog. One parent can hold the leash with the dog on the left side of the parent. The child can hold the other leash and would have the dog on the right side. This way, the child can give all the commands, and the parent can be there to reinforce the rules. :)

I would have to see a video to give you the best guidance.

It's follows the same principles as the markers that predict rewards. Jump to 3:30 in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uT3I3Xpwmeo.html