After years of fishing mostly with spinning rods for smallmouth, I couldn’t disagree more. Braid ti fluoro offers multiple advantages over straightfluoro. First-superior line management. Even the most carefully managed fluoro becomes unwieldy on a spinning rod over the course of a day. Second, much more sensitivity. Third, better strike detection with fluorescent braid. Fourth, much more cost effective. Fifth, I can cast farther without sacrificing line strength. I suspect those and other reasons are why smallmouth stars like Brandon Palaniuk, Taku Ito, etc. use braid to fluoro.
I agree on all points. Yet, I recall Taku using straight 6lb test fluoro back in 2020 Elite Series at St Clair. My point is that some pros are not blindly using braid to fluoro. It depends on conditions of the field.
Mogippa- totally agree. The conditions definitely matter. For some things like tubes, I won’t use braid because I don’t want to move the tube too much, especially in cold water.
I tried both. I prefer braid to fluoro. A spool of braid lasts me an entire season. Hell some reels have two or three year old braid on them. A spool of fluoro lasts me forever. I can run my reels much more loose, because braid is much easier to cast. With fluoro I need to tighten down my spool tension, with braid I just leave it completely off. There is a difference in sensitivity. The only downside is because I don't like my knot being on my reel, I tie a lot of leaders, but that's about it. However people want to fish is up to them, but braid to fluoro makes more economic sense to me, and gives me more advantages then disadvantages.
Lol 3 year old line that’s no good line bud so your sensitivity is not helping you and that’s false anytime you run two different lines less sensitive braid has no memory no stretch so you loose sensitivity only way max sensitivity with line is run just that one type of line at the right lbs time change that line if three years old just saying line goes bad all it and after that long it’s bad so your sensitivity is not accurate
@@beyondfshn2844 lol cool story bud. Braid lasts forever, it has no memory. It's not going to start backlashing after a few months like fluoro. The only issue is either fading or fraying. You trim the frayed parts when you tie your leader, and braid isn't milk, it doesn't just "go bad". As for sensitivity, braid to leader provides better sensitivity then straight fluro. A six foot leader doesn't stretch nearly as much as having 30 yards of it casted out. I don't care what you say, I've tried both, and know the difference. My sensitivity is much better then running straight fluoro, and this setup works for me. If you want to run straight fluoro, have at it.
@@twiggsherman3641 and to each is there own but listen to what you say yes braid has no memory no play or give there for less sensitivity there’s more to it then opinion though
@@beyondfshn2844 slack braid will have no sensitivity. If there's no slack, braid will give better sensitivity. Adding a fluoro leader helps add sensitivity to the braid when you're slacklining, because of gravity. If you're using a wacky worm, your slack line still has pressure on it from hanging down in the water as it sinks, so movement on the fluoro will translate through the braid, better then just having braid by itself. However if you just toss a bait out there and let it lay on the bottom, with no pressure on the line at all, straight fluoro will be better then straight braid. Opinion is which one you prefer, facts are what I just laid out.
there are some very real advantages to braid-fluoro. I have spent time with both. -you get more sensitivity -better hook penetration, especially when fishing deep. -braid lasts a long time and it extends the life of a fluoro spool -its very versatile. If you need to switch between 8, 10, 12 pound line, you can do it no problem and you don't need to carry extra spools. This is my system and I feel that it is pretty optimized. If anybody has any suggestions to further optimize it, feel free to reply. I tie a blood knot with 8 loops on each side, cinch it down, and give it a few pops to make sure it wont break. It's a skinny knot, it goes through the guides easily. I like to use a 15 foot leader, which in my experience has always been longer than the visibility distance. If you're fishing shallow, you can use neon to see your bites and have the braid be totally out of the water. I like to use dark green braid when fishing deep if I have it on hand, or when fishing a fluke or floating worm.
Would love to see you and Matt Allen from tactical bassin sit down and have a conversation about this. He's a big advocate of running braid to leader, people trust his advice because he's almost always catching big bass in their videos, and so much of the things discussed on the tactical bassin videos have worked well for me
Matt HATES braid to floro. Be stresses this over and over again. Tim uses it on his finesse setup. They have videos where they say they've tried certain types of FC for leader material but as a general rule...matt hates it. Braid to mono🤙
I like the high vis braid(yellow) with the use of spinning tackle as my finger is not on the line to detect a bite, therefore I can see the line move. For me most bites come on entry and fall of the Ned Rig. You are correct it is more affordable, every little bit help if you have multiple rods which we all do.
“I don’t know if Gary Yamamoto has ever lost a bass in his life.” There’s pretty much the ultimate fishing compliment. I hate hearing the knot go through the guides as well. I cringe virtually every time. Much respect for your opinions on everything.
I’m a kayak guy and prefer braid to fluorocarbon on my spinning setups, here’s why: 1. More versatile, I can switch up leader lb test or just cut the leader off and use the braid for poppers/small top water. It allows me to carry 1 medium light spinning rod and 1 medium spinning rod to cover all my finesse applications. 2. Longer casts 3. Cheaper 4. Easier hook sets, I reel set on everything, I don’t Jack em
Yep. I didn’t put the ease of changing leader poundage in my comment but your 100% correct. I think randy doesn’t understand you can have a 50 ft leader if you want.
As far as it being cheaper I put a mono backing on my reels about half the spool then I put my fluorocarbon on after that so I get 2 reels out of 200 or so yards of fluorocarbon. Cause basically a spool is like $20+ of the invizx.
Totally disagree. Never had a failure with the Alberto knot as the fluoro to braid connection. Hate the inevitable line twist from a day of fishing straight fluoro. I use a 12-15 foot leader which is plenty to last a trip or two. I also have over 50 years fishing experience. I started using fluoro to braid about 5 years ago. I'll never go back. As I've gotten older being able to see the his-vis braid is a plus. Come on Randy, maybe its time you gave it another try. This time with an open mind.
I haven’t had much luck spooling fluoro on my spinning reel. Even dragging behind boat and reeling in wet I still had loops falling off the spool. I prefer yellow braid to fluoro mainly for visibility and sensitivity. I use an Alberto knot for the braid to fluoro and a Palomar knot for fluoro to hook. I can retie the entire rig fairly quickly but I practiced to get the speed up. I’ve used it from floating worms to shaky heads. I do check my Alberto knot regularly and retie it when I think it’s weak or frayed. I only use this on spinning rods. My baitcasters are full fluoro. Just my preference. I enjoy you videos.
On my finesse setup I utilize braid backing to a fluoro mainline/leader that is about 2-3 cast lengths. Leaves me enough fluorocarbon to retie a bunch before i need to add more fluoro and I save big $$$ in the long run. If you fill the spool with straight fluoro and get bad line twist you’ll lose twice as much line as someone who uses braid backing.
The only thing I like braid to fluorocarbon for is the brightly colored lines can act like a strike indicator for baits like weightless worms, flukes, etc
I actually feel braid to floro outweighs floro only. Like you stated above, I love being able to see the strike indicator when using weightless worms around docs. The other is further casting. And lastly is sensitivity. now I will agree with Randy on one point for sure… Straight Floro no doubt will get you more bites, but if your leader is long enough, I don’t know how many more bites that is. :-)
I'm one to agree with you. Around 4 years ago I converted around 75 percent of my gear to braid and leader. After 4 years of experiencing the pros and cons of braid to leader. Most of my biggest fish above 7 pounds were caught on straight mono or flurocarbon. I love the greater sensitivity of braid to fluro in the right situations. A lot of my rods have small to micro guides which I hate having the knot going through. To make a long story short. Everyone has to experience the pros and cons for them selves. Just part of the learning process. And for many, that learning process takes longer unless someone like yourself points it out to them. Keep up the great videos Randy.
I agree 100% Randy & I’m just a weekend warrior. Hardly an amateur!! 😂 I will say this though. Taking a black sharpie or permanent black marker & simply blacking out about 10 ft of braid from your hook is legit!!!! The legend Roland Martin has a video about doing that to your braid so you know it’s legit!!! Good stuff!!!!
Why do you need to make your braid black? Don't tell me that now since it is black, the fish can't see it.... Have you ever caught a bass on a black worm??? Bass can see the color black. Some use a green magic marker on their braid....Bass are caught all the time on watermelon and green pumpkin color worms all the time.
@@ejzabojnik834 you only looked at the color and took every other variable out of the equation. It does work to color the line because of the thinner diameter( than a worm). Now, that is only for visibility and water clarity matters. Another thing is that braid can make a sound in the water. I mean its up to everyone's preference.
Love your vids - they have either taught me something new or solidified how I fish now. On this topic though, I part ways for sure. In my 60’s - fishing hard for many years now (shore, boat, kayak, drift boat - fresh and salt - all forms - hand fished as a kid - all rods - all types of fishing - fly/bass/surf/spey/trolling salt and fresh, on and on - I use mono and fluoro for a few applications and of course fly line as well (all types - river and lake - flaoting/sinking etc). But for much of my fishing for several years now, I run braid to fluoro for most of my fishing (spinning/baitcast/surfcast and trolling). I wish I had done it 20 years ago! I catch more fish - I have less hassles with line memory etc and my bait is in the water more often and for longer - I use a uni to uni knot mostly and have not had problems - for salt an FG knot - braid to fluro is also cheaper in the long run, but that is just bonus - it catches more fish because I have my line in the water more and for longer - I re-tie less and lose no more fish than the many years I did without it. As for no stretch? I use spinning reels with good drag and set it correctly for my target fish - baitcasters not much of a need for drag (powerfishing). I am not a young guy and I am all in with braid to fluoro.
Braid to flouro saves so much money. The only down side is learning to tie the knot, which is easy (fg knot or my preferred blood knot). You can spool 50% braid on your reel (jerkbaits) 80% (spinner baits and chatterbaits) or 95% (flipping). You can make it to where no braid comes out when you cast just like straight flouro. The downside to straight flouro is memory and having to change the line more often. Not to mention high vis braid help detecting bites. Braid to flouro is far superior once you have the basics down, especially for someone trying to save money.
Just a quick question, saving money meaning using more fluoro than braid? Does cost of fluoro less than the the cost of braid? I am curious how long of fluoro do other fishermen commonly use? I do have problem of the tight knot hitting the guides and causing wind knots often (double uni). Some people said shorter leader line helps. Would love to know your opinion?
Don't always agree with everything you say on you videos but they do spark a lot of conversation. Also one of the biggest problems in the country today is, if you don't see things my way then you are wrong. No room for different opinions are points of view and no respect for someone with a differing point of view. Keep up the videos and wither I agree or disagree with you, I'll still listen to your ideas and know that its your opinion and respect that.
All of my spinning rods are braid to monofilament. You can cast far and the braid lasts 1-2 seasons, sometimes more. I like the braid because even on far casts I get a good hookset and the mono is good for being a shock absorber and stretches a little if the fish dives by the kayak. It also helps keep them hooked even if my drag isn't set right. I can be versatile with this setup and just cut the leader and use the braid for topwater. Allows me to bring less spinning rods on the kayak and more bait casters. Also, far less wind knots.
I Switched to braid and fluoro leaders from straight mono about 9-10 years ago, and doubt I’m going back. The sensitivity and cast distance I get with braid can’t be matched, at least for my fishing, and a well tied FG knot has never failed me. I have experienced break offs with fluoro, but again, tie your knots correctly and that can be minimized. Fluorocarbon also gives me the abrasion resistance I need in some situations, besides the low visibility. I run straight braid for heavy flipping, pitching, and frogs. As far as shortening leaders due to reties, I live with it because the pros out weigh the cons for me. It’s a matter of preference. If I was in the boat with Randy, he might convince me otherwise, but in my experience braid and fluoro is still the way to go.
Comments are very interesting on this. I think it is interesting the delineation of braid to fluoro leader versus braid backing to fluoro. I think what Randy is describing is the braid to leader, not the backing situation... but I can't speak for him. With the leader setup, I see the same arguments and both sides as Randy lays out. It does seem that maybe casting distance, lack or stretch, ease of swapping to straight braid or lighter leader, lack of line twist all would be good reasoning for certain fishers... all depends on the particular person. I'd like to add in though the cost factor and the sensitivity of braid. If I get more bites with straight fluoro, but I can't tell I am getting them... then it does me no good. In part adding braid to fluoro leader may make up some sensitivity in a cheaper combo that many of us recreational fishers must use.
I do it purely as a money saving measure. I don’t really fish tournaments, so I’m not as worried about losing fish. However, I completely agree with Randy’s assessment.
I’ve tried both and I’ve caught fish both ways. 2 things to remember if you are gonna go straight fluoro. First put a decent amount of mono backing on. The backing will dig into the spool so you don’t have to worry about your line slipping and it will save you a ton of money because you won’t be wasting that expensive fluoro. 2nd thing is use light line, I only use 8lb or smaller on a spinning set up. With 8lb fluoro I can cast a mile and have no problems with memory or line twist. In fact I let my 7 year old daughter use my finesse set up a lot and she has no problem handling the fluoro. That being said if I you put 12-15 lb straight fluoro on a spinning setup it would be a nightmare for any angler. You will definitely be going for a trip down memory lane.
Go Randy! Loved this video! I dont use braid to fluorocarbon for the same reasons. I'm straight fluorocarbon, straight braid, or straight mono (topwater). That knot is an extra risk i dont want and couldn't stand it going through the guides. With straight braid, I color the first couple feet black with a sharpie.
Ive been experimenting with the different lines for quite some time now and i would say the most important factor in getting bites is fishing where the fish are. Your line means nothing without fish being present. Tight lines!
When I really started bass fishing I was using straight braid because I was fishing from the bank. Once I got a boat I tried using Fluoro but it feels like fishing with a rubber-band. I use braid on all my rods. Fluoro leader on most.
Love your channel, but I think this is your preference.. and that’s fine. 5 of my top 10 biggest bass have come on braid to fluro. The key for me was to practice the knots a ton so I can retie quickly. Braid last much longer on my spinning reels, it doesn’t tangle as often, and I can see the bite better. I do still have one rod rigged straight fluro for fishing finesse baits deep. The braid will slow the fall down too much at times.
10 pound braid, 6-8 pound fluoro leaders. Never had the Alberto knot break on a freshwater fish. Cats, musky, carp... I can tie the knot in my sleep and it goes through the guides. It's all I use on spinning setups and I will never go back. I'm not sucked into any hype. I tried it and loved it. Hands down the best option.
I love braid to fluorocarbon leader. I’ve had more big bass break off on straight fluorocarbon . Learned my lesson on straight fluro. Got to swap out that line twice a year. Where as straight braid is longer lasting and which I love for frog fishing . Braid to leader is a money saver especially on expensive braid and fluorocarbon line. I utilize both starlight fluro and braid to leader for different situations on both spinning and baitcasting gear.
I've tried them all also. I still prefer camo green braid with a 10lb test 15' Fluorocarbon leader on my spinning rigs. Straight Fluorocarbon springs of the real and makes a mess. Straight mono is like fishing with a rubber band. Straight braid is great as long as you feel it's not effecting the fish and most of the time it's probably not. In the gin clear water of the North however, I just feel better having a line they can't see or is extremely hard to see and that's why I stick with the 15' leader. That's what works for me. PS ~ Thanks for all your videos Randy. I always look forward to watching them.
Some great comments below. No venom here. I'm a braid to short (~6') fluorocarbon leader user. Some things that make this so debatable come to mind. 1) Anglers often LOVE to tie knots. Just look at the proliferation of knot videos. Some leader usage results from, well, you have to have a leader to be able to tie a junction knot. But, as Randy says, adding knots adds risks and detracts from # of casts per day on the water; 2) People love to speculate on whether fish care about seeing line, or not, and fluoro's invisibility. And, yet look at the wire on a spinnerbait and many others! Go figure; 3) Sensitivity issue: it is real; 4) Line float vs. sink aspects. And, several other issues. Me? I generally agree with Randy but I absolutely hate straight fluoro on a reel even knowing how to spool it on correctly. Gotta say that I see some who don't have my issues. Are they often pros with fluoro sponsers providing free line to them so they can yank it all off and put fresh line on for each tournament? I really don't know. No issues, not for me, with fishing straight mono when it is called for. So, braid to leader, straight braid, straight mono . . . but, straight fluoro, though, is way down my list. Slightly above a root canal. Kudos to anyone who can pull it off.
You definitely bring up some pretty good points but I find that my braid to fluro is way more sensitive. I can notice a huge difference. Not to mention it saves me hundreds of dollars a year. I just maid the switch 2 years ago and it was hard for me to learn the knots but now I got it wired. I remember when I was a kid flouro wasn’t even around. I would re spool every other time if every time I fished.
Bank fisherman, switched to braid to fluoro last year. Love it. extra distance is great, no twists, generally easy to retie on the shore, mastered the double uni. Plus, with limited ability to carry a bunch of setups I can put a multipurpose 15-20 lb braid on, but switch up the leader to 8-10-12-15 lbs etc. Just my opinion.
Hey Randy rantalot, how long have you actually tried braid to flouro? From your dissertation about getting more bites it seems you made your mind up before trying it?
I believe he tried it but I also believe he was not running the system right. You can’t just put an 8ft leader on every rod. Each technique determines how long your leader is.
Interesting subject. I keep a straight fluoro rod and the rest braid to fluoro, I’m not a tournament fisherman so losing an occasional fish to knot failure doesn’t cost me money and the braid to fluoro set up saves me a lot of money. I did almost give up on it, til I finally found a knot set up that when I break off, it is the fluoro to lure knot that breaks not the braid to fluoro knot
I have found exactly this. If I use Uni to uni for the braid to leader and then use the uni knot at the lure when it snag and pull for a break it’s breaking at the lure connection 95% of the time. In fact I often just tie on a new lure. Even then the next snag almost always breaks at the lure connection. How hard I have to pull to break off also boosts my confidence that I won’t break off while playing a fish. A cheaper way to build confidence is to try your know combo at home. Break off in the back yard and you learn with out the cost of a lost lure. Uni to Uni and Uniknot are a great system.
It gives me way longer casts and up here in the Great Lakes gives me more bites with water visibility of 30’+. The extra 20’ I get is huge with spooky fish. Never had a knot or break off problem. Saves a ton of money also. With dirty water i understand braid is fine. With gin water in my opinion you either need straight FC or braid and a leader. Way cheaper to use a leader. My braid usually lasts 3 -4 years. I usually use a 10-12’ leader. If fish are hitting an Arig in water that has 20+ visibility then i am not too worried about my FG knot coming through the water. This is what i have noticed here around the Great Lakes. I think it really depends on the situation and water visibility I understand the fewer knots you have the better but I have never had that problem. It all comes down to confidence
I'm in Michigan and agree with all you stated. I've been using the fluoro/ braid with a double uniknot for the past 5 yrs and have not broke off a knot once.
Dude no hook set? Tell me you dont fish smallmouth without telling me. As for braid. I switched last year to braid with leader. Love it. No more swearing in my busy. Lol.
Randy I agree 100% bud. I personally stick with mono. I have alot of friends and they swear by the braid to fluro or mono and I laugh. I catch just as many fish and sometimes bigger fish than they do. Also a friend and I fished a tournament one time and I let him talk me into spoiling braid on. The day of the tournament I lost 3 giants which cost us the tournament. We fished a small canal so obviously fishing very close to the fish. So being that close caused my line to snap when I set the hook. Had I went with my mono that wouldn’t have happen. Ever since it’s strictly mono for me. I do use braid to fluro in saltwater though. I also think your right on the money with guys thinking it’s just what you use because so and so are using it. I could care less when it comes to fishing line. I’ve been fishing for 40 years so I’ll stick with my mono and fluro. Great video buddy keep up the great work.
i have rods with straight fluoro and braid to fluoro. i lose less fish on the braid to fluoro because i get a deeper hook set. they just rarely get off. Straight fluoro i lose more fish. backlashes are far easier to fix on braid and doesnt damage the line anywhere near as bad as fluoro. Its a great idea. Might not work for you but, works for me. You have a LOT of tips that are absolutely great tips that work. braid to fluoro is better for me. it casts farther, its more forgiving, it set the hook better. just mind you drag. FG knot with a tad of superglue on it. it doesnt go anywhere.
Man, I'm so happy i found your channel. You have removed a lot of stress this time of year on line selection and respooling reels getting ready for the fishing season here in Wisconsin, Thanks for the useful information
I agree a lot of stuff fisherman think they need is overblown, maybe some compensation? You don’t need a 8ft broomstick with 80 pound braid to flip that jig into the rotten stumps.
I use leaders mostly for the cost effectiveness, I can use the same braid for 2 or 3 years just tying on new 20 to 30 foot leaders. Obviously your situation is different than mine so, it's a bit apple's to oranges but, it works pretty good for me.
All right, so here's my comment after... Great video! ! I appreciate your experience and time on the water.. I don't bass fish, and I also have hundreds of hours experience on the water... With trout, I believe the hookset is an issue... And using the braid to fluorocarbon allows you to change liters kind of like a tip. It on a fly rod... On Stormy Days I like to use a 6 lb... And on clear days I'll go as low as 1 lb for my fluorocarbon... Running a braided main line allows me not to have to take multiple rods... Having to retie your leader definitely can take you out of the game on a windy day 🤣🤣😢 Also, I don't run braid in the winter... I run straight fluorocarbon to the reel because the braid tends to beat up and freeze.. Mono has been tested and proven to catch fish, but I think fluorocarbon is an advancement in technology which is an upgrade in every way if used properly.. Also, I go by the motto... Fish what you can afford to fish..🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for the insight !!! Stay Motivated !!! Keep It Tight !!! Cpl. Hood 🦈🦈🦈
I just like being able to see my hi via line easily. I make fewer mistakes and helps a lot in strike detection on the initial fall. Even in fluoro I use Berkeley Vanish Transition or colored fluoro.
I have extensively tested all kinds of knots, braids, fluorocarbon leaders, high quality thin mono.......I used every superline and Fins Windtamer Braid, if that’s what you do on casting setup. and Sling Braid for spinning........fins pink windtamer never loses its color, in a light or heavy wind it whips through the air and extends casts immensely. I used a sunline leader when I use one and a sunline flouro for a mainline as well. Their 7lb shooter is thinner, stronger and clear on an finesse setup. Fish how you want. If you don’t catch a dang thing then listen to someone who does,
Sadly people who don’t have an open mind , are the know it alls ? But I thank you for telling us your experience from years of research and applying knowledge you have gained
Randy, I appreciate your stance and firm opinion on this matter. The correct answer is that braid to leter, straight floro or mono all need to be tools used in angling. Also fishing has a lot of personal preference. Rods, reels, baits, knots etc. My personal preference is braid to leter. I could careless if I hear my knot through my guides. I don’t tie the FG knot. I tie double blood knot, it’s money. I also fish straight floro as well. Just depends my application. Keep up the great content and thanks again.
I love braid to fluoro. I’m on a old town PDL kayak so it helps significantly. It hard to set a hook with fluoro on a yak but not impossible. But what works for someone situation might not work you. We are all different and that’s okay.
Well Bro... you've made a believer out of me. I've spent so much time wading through ALL the info, pros & cons etc. I've had a couple setups this year straight Fluoro. Hundreds of Largies & Smallies later, I'm just loving it! And no more stress or inconvenience of messing w/a Leader. Thank You!
I agree straight floro or mono is better in some cases. But overall braid to floro is much cheaper in the long run and like you said cast better. I don’t think they will notice the braid unless you are in crystal clear water.
Using only braid works in murky water. In some lakes the water is so clear that the fish can see the braid. Finesse fishing using fluorocarbon is important especially when there's a snag the fluorocarbon or mono for a drop shot you can use a much lighter weight mono after the hook to save the hook and the bait by sacrificing only that section with the drop shot sinker weight. Using only 8 to 15 lb. braid can be difficult to work with because it's diameter is too small and having an intentional break off can be very difficult to accomplish.
If I made my livelihood from fishing, maybe I could agree with straight fluro. But considering most of us fish as a hobby, and it being an already very expensive hobby at that, I think I'll stick with braid to fluro/mono. Even if it's disadvantageous, my wallet appreciates it. And I still catch plenty of fish.
I agree to an extent.. if your useing 8lb or less floro. But if your heavier than this it makes your one spinning rod, that lots of people use for everything . much more versatile..
I grew up only using straight mono or fluorocarbon on my spinning rods but after using braid with a leader I'll only use braid/leader for most applications. If you're worried about an extra knot then you're not tying knots correctly. Fly fisherman have way more knots and catch bigger, stronger fish on 2-4 lb leaders. (Reel -> Backing line -> fly line -> leader -> tippet -> fly)
1st off love learning from you and your videos . Wife and I watch every week . But I watched this video . And said ok I'll try to do straight fluorocarbon . Well I'm back here to tell ya at least for us . Fluorocarbon will only be used as a leader . Back to braid with leader for us . What a nightmare the last 4 times out fishing . 3 baitcasters And 2 spinning . And yes I know how to put it on properly. In the middle of our last excursion I ripped of all 5 reels and redid them with braid, then added a leader . Back to no issues . Go figure. Keep the videos coming .
I agree with all the disadvantages you talk about regarding braid to fluorocarbon. I fish tournaments with my son and we often fish tubes for smallies. He fishes straight fluoro and I fish braid to fluoro. We do about the same! I used to used straight fluoro but switched (before it was even something I saw the pros doing) for several reasons. The main reason is that my aging eyes can see it. My son is younger than me (Duh!) and he can see the fluoro. I can also feel what's going on better. Finally, I am a guide and I spend a lot less time untangling my clients' lines when they are using braid to fluoro (and yes, I know how to put line on a spinning reel, I've been doing it for more than 50 years). Love your channel!
Braid to flouro helps when in a kayak, there is a lot of movement in a kayak when you set the hook that can lead to poor hook sets. Braid to flour really helps midigate this issue.
Also I'd like to add because you've got me tickled right now 🤣🤣 I love the fact that you told them if they're having problem with lying twist and they need to know how to use their equipment better 🤣🤣🤣 and you're absolutely right folks if you're having trouble with lying twist you're either not spoiling it right you have a fishing lure that is spent an underwater because you're not paying attention to it that is off track and you need to bend it to get back on track and stop putting twist in your line and if you get twisted in your line you can get it out just like he said by trolling your line behind a boat. Its that simple. I'm only 35 years old I've been fishing since I was a little girl and I know all this what's wrong with you little girls...?
I can certainly agree about the sound of braid through the line guides. It's like fingernails on a chalkboard. Honestly, I believe it detracts from the pleasure of fishing.
I use braid to leader because it's more efficient for me. I can't carry 10 spinning outfits in my boat so I put braid on all my spinning reels. Black braid mind you and around 15 to 20 feet of leader. I use to run full mono tried running straight flouro and I use to have a dedicated braid spinning outfit. Braid gives me the versatility to change line sizes while only carry a couple of spinning rods with me. That's the main reason I use it. It just makes more sense to me. I do understand your points Randy but let's face it running straight flouro on a spinning reel is expensive and once you spool a certain line size you are stuck with that particular line unless you carry a whole slew of spinning reels with different line sizes. I use as small as 6lb test all the way up to 20 and my braid is always 15lb test. I fish for peacock and largemouth bass in the same lake so I have to change leaders depending on what species I am targeting at that moment.
I definitely agree with what Randy is saying if you're primarily or only a bass fisherman. I have two bass setups that are species and technique specific for bass fishing. Those two are straight fluorocarbon. I'm 100% in agreement there. However, the rest of my rods are used for multiple species, techniques and conditions in both fresh and saltwater. Braid to fluorocarbon allows me to fine tune for anything. I don't have the cash to buy or time maintain a couple dozen different setups. Just for one example... I can take my Penn Battle II 4000 spinning reel, Star Stellar Lite fast taper med/light rod, 30lb Suffix braid then tune it with 8lb, 12lb, 20lb or 30lb Seaguar fluorocarbon leader and catch pretty much anything that swims salt or freshwater. I can also use pretty much any lure and do pretty much any technique with amazing results, even down to live bait. I can take that setup with one tackle box and travel the whole country burning almost every species up. For another example...On big fishing trips with the family, I can pass my rods out and fine tune the whole family to what we're doing with braid to fluorocarbon as well. All I'd be doing is changing line all of the time if I went full fluorocarbon.
All those extra bites you get from those finicky, line shy bass will make up for all the ones you won't detect with that stretch in your line. All kidding aside, the increased sensitivity alone is reason enough for me to use braid. Paired with a sensitive rod it's amazing what you can feel. I'm not exaggerating when I say that when dragging a small jig or ned rig I don't even worry about keeping the line taut to feel bites. I actually keep a slack bow in my line from rod tip down to the water and I still feel the slightest bite as well as seeing the line jump. I feel the fish but it doesn't feel me. Love ya Randy, I don't care what kind of line you choose to use.
I've fished it all over the past 45 years and I'm back to low viz quality mono except one rod with straight braid for jigs in dirty water. Just my 2 cents.
I run braid to a leader for two reasons. First: braid lasts longer than mono or Fluorocarbon, so I can save money by not having to respool my reels every month or two. Second: if I get snagged and have to break off, I do t have to fight with braid and risk leaving 30+ feet of braid in the water. Instead I leave only a few feet of mono or fluoro in the water. I do t do it for more bites or anything like that. I do it to save money and keep some line out of the environment if I can.
It's a cost thing for me as a fun fisherman. I use braid on all of my reels except for one that I throw jerkbaits on at the moment. Braid-to-leader has also helped the sensitivity of my $100 rods perform a bit better. Having to almost constantly change out flouro to keep it fresh and performing well just isn't worth the cost for me. If I fished for a living, I'd have a different opinion.
Randy THANK YOU for all the insights you share with everyone. Those insights are based on your experience, hours and hours, countless days and years of experience. That is why I am willing to listen and learn. Again, THANK YOU. There will always be know-it-all’s who will put others down. Ignore them people, ignore them. GOD BLESS you in 2022.
Us poor boys will continue to use good old Mono and with no issues. Trilene XL on spinning gear and Berkley Big Game on baitcasters. Simple, cheap and just flat out gets the job done without complications.
After seeing a ton of mono vs fluoro abrasion and repeated stress tests, I've opted to go mono. So I use braid to mono leader, 2 to 4 feet for bass. 6 to 8 feet for trout. I always use leader, because my water is infested with pike and bowfin, I've lost too many baits fishing for bass to run straight braid.
I go through reels faster than I go through a spool of braid and a spool of flourocarbon leader. Saves money. The knots are harder but we've come a long way in that arena. It runs pretty good really.
I hated braided line for years. I couldn't find a happy medium to save my life. 4 years ago I tried Power Pro braided line. Thought it was cheap enough to give a serious try. After the first year, I love it!!! Now when it comes to a leader, that's where it goes crazy. See braided line floats. So I like to use it on topwater. Frogs, poppers and chuggers. So far no complaints at all. Now it's a must to use a leader when fishing on the bottom and I don't like the stretch you get with monofilament. On topwater I tie directly to the bait. Modified FG knot to the leader and fluorocarbon to hook I use a custom knot. Most of my breakoffs are at the hook knot. Every now and then I'll break off at the leader if my drag is too tight. I fish from the bank most days now so I need to be able to reach the long distance casts. For me it's not getting sucked in,.... it's an issue of being able to perform the technique I need to get the results with the budget I have. Fluorocarbon line is expensive and braid is too but I fish lighter lines so it's what I decided to do.
Makes sense. I never liked the combo of straight braid with leader PLUS extra fast rods. It equals ripped lips. With these beautiful new rods that are much more sensitive and have such fast tips, flouro or even mono (don't underestimate it) balance out the control. Again this is based on application, species, equipment, freshwater/saltwater, etc.
I don't know about y'all but I swear by the FG knot for connection knots on braid. If you tie it right and make the mono/fluoro tag end stick out the top of your knot while staying parralel to your main line it will zip through the guides like silk, causing little to no friction.
I’ve wondered this exact thing and could never really find a good answer for it. One thing I have learned, is that my drop shot bite went to dang near zero when I switched to a braid to fluorocarbon setup. Thanks Randy!
I don't use braid for a hard/fast hookset but more for control on my topwater on long casts. I use braid to short flouro/mono on topwater (or just straight braid) with a very high speed reel because it makes a big difference in feel and speed to get out the slack, I get a ton of hits right after the splash or on the first few cranks as we all do, having a fast reel/less give in the line works great for that. I've also noticed that using just straight braid seems to get me less bites on top, so I usually add the flouro/mono leader and I see an uptick in bites/hits. I also use straight mono or flouro a lot around the 8-12lb range on my finesse setups (worms/rigs/jigs) and spinning rigs. I agree with Randy on some of the presentations/hooksets, you don't really want that direct instant connection, you actually want a little give and delay after you see the line run. Each to their own I suppose but I agree with Randy for the most part, but I have my niche situations where I like braid. I've caught enough bass in my life, I always feel bad for the fish that have the dislocated jawbone from the idiot hooksetter who thinks they need to yank the 2lb fish to the moon once they feel the nibble. I'll take fewer fish in the boat and preserve the ones that are there :).
I fish Tandem rigs for Flounder here on the Texas gulf coast and I do braid to fluorocarbon all the time. What I do is carry several of the same rig and when I feel some abrasion I just cut it off and put the next rig on. I check the line often because I'm fishing over Oyster beds and I don't care what kind of line you're using it will get roughed up fairly quick.
Randy you are a brave and courageous soul. No braid to fluorocarbon? That's like telling people (some people) that the Earth isn't flat. Of course it is! Every learned scientist understands that the Earth is flat. Well, maybe not so much any more these days 🙂 Keep speaking the truth. Eventually, there will be no dispute.
The next big innovation in line will be the elimination of knots between braid and fluorocarbon and use of a bonding agent and/or a small micro sleeve each line end can feed into and be sealed with heat or epoxy to bond the two lines together. People hate tying knots and a good engineer will put an end to the cumbersome knots. I am working on some innovations now to solve this problem.
Agreed that two knots are a risk, but in the last year, after getting better at tying two uni-knots, they have not failed. Lanier is a very clear lake most of the time and when fish can see 6-15 feet, most anglers use leaders and not straight braid. Anyone else fish clear lakes that feels the same way?
I know this comment is a little late, but he actually has some valid points. I run both braid to fluorocarbon and straight fluoro, mono and braid depending on my situation, but to his point I just lost a bass with my baitcaster with braid to fluoro. Then came back with my straight fluorocarbin an landed the bass, so I honestly don't know how I feel about it smh.
100 % agree. I'm old 54 grew up on mono and then fluorocarbon came out. Learned how to fish from my dad in NJ fishing the beaches and jetties. never had braid. If you know how to spool it never get a wind knot. Yes maybe once a month or so if I'm fishing a lot I put an egg sinker on with a swivel and drag it behind me in my boat get any twist out. Now i do use braid for frogs and flipping heavy cover.
I will admit you make valid points and i would agree with you for the most part for me i love my braid to fluorocarbon mainly for the sensitivity and i never get any curls or coils in my line cause braid has no memory and i can cast further and thats a big deal for me because i fish from the bank about half the time and i dont want to give up strenth in my line by using lifhter l8ne to get that distance. One more point for me is yes braid is expensive but the rebuttal is that i can use my power pro braid for a couple years so it pays for itself. I have had power pro on one of my spinning reel and rod combos i use to catch musky for going on 3 years now and its still holding up great its definitely not black anymore more like a grey lol but still strong and not fraying.
Well I have to agree i have lost some decent fish where the fluorocarbon snap off the braid has no give and the fluorocarbon just goes bye-bye. Left nothing but the braid.
I understand Randy's point of view, but it's much more economical for ME to use braid to flouro. All of my rods spooled with power pro last at least three years and 200 yards of flouro for leader material lasts just as long taking into consideration retying and changing leaders. To each his own. If we all did the same thing, it'd be a pretty boring world. Tight lines guys!
Thank you Randy! I absolutely agree! I have seriously tried the braid to fluro for a couple seasons and am switching all my rigs back to single line. You are 100% right on the hesitation to re-tie and the time required. I think it's funny that anglers state they run braid backing to save money. Most of the folks I see either on RU-vid or at the ramp have a half dozen $400+ rod reel combos on a $40K boat behind a $50K truck.
Your main line is up to you. What you can afford is what you should use. Like monofilament on a baitcaster is way more affordable than braid. Braid on a spinning rod is just efficient and will last a season or two meaning easy on the wallet. The real question is what do you want your leader to do? Sink? Then use fluorocarbon. Float? Then use monofilament. But he is right if you can afford to use straight fluorocarbon then use that but remember to replace it each season or take enough off the spool so fresh line is ready to go.
