I had stainless TSP headers on my 5th gen 1LE and never noticed any extra heat in the bay when I would pop the hood. Only reason you might need manifold wrap is for turbo setups...big turbo.
Not referring to this shop specifically but in general how much does it cost to have a car dyno tuned? And what affects the price the most? The vehicle? How modded it already is? Location? Reputation of the tuner?
Had the same throttle controller on my 5th gen SS. It was a bitch to tune and threw a TPS code a few times. Took me a few days to figure out the problem. Now instead of spending money to make my car “feel” fast, I spend money to actually be fast.
I'm going to be in the market for a ZO6 in a couple of years. I've been watching these guys for 2 years they really know their shit I would never send my car anywhere else.
Fran anyway you can tell me how to do a ECU reset on my 17 ss? I disconnect the battery over night and take it for a drive in the morning but the car still feels laggy like no low end torque and the exhaust doesn't sound crisp so I know it's not fully reset.. maybe I need to do a throttle reset?
I've used header wrap a few times on titanium exhaust, if you're going to use it get the titanium wrap one heat cycle was all it took to stop the smoke, my KFX had it because it'd literally cook your leg in seconds even if you put your foot on the outside of the Nerf bars. I didn't want to run it after a month of burning my leg. Anyone who rode it has a matching burn on their calf. I know it helped keep the engine temp cooler but on a quad the exhaust wraps around the engine unlike a car
People that say it make their car faster are ignorant. I have one, no HP increase but the drivability on the throttle is more linear at certain settings. Anyone who thinks it is going to make their car faster is fooling themselves. 100% throttle is the max either way.
David A the warranty... it is a simple bolt on that doesn’t void the warranty. Once out of warranty most choose there own way of actually making the car faster.
I’ve never understood the argument of closed vs open hood on a dyno. Whatever ‘passive’ cooling effect people believe they’re going to get with the hood open, and then say ‘you don’t drive your with the hood open’ is stupid. This isn’t a PC like people used to do back in the day when overclocking required removing the cover of you case and putting a box fan right on it. Engines get stupid hot, and repeated dyno runs is just going to heat soak everything regardless if the hood is open or closed. Even when you’re testing something as simple as an intake mod. Just as this video perfectly shows. This is why time between runs to cool down the car is required on the dyno. Especially when you’re waiting however long it takes to flash the ECM/ECU I’m no tuner and have no experience at all with tuning and even I know that.
@@AV-cc5wl "a PC is completely different than an engine lol" I know that, it was an example of the kind of people who perpetrate myths when they have the equipment available to confirm a theory.
+1 on issues with throttle controllers. Have had problems on late model M5s, ATS-Vs and many other cars. Maybe it doesn't cause problems for some cars, but why risk it.....
Hahahaha I remember seeing these advertised when they first came out and said the same thing! Its just adjusting the throttle position and making you think its an improvement. Like keeping your foot in the throttle at all times!
I believe the argument with the hood closed and hood open argument on the the dyno was more geared towards open element filters. Not boxed in ones like you guys tested.
Sounds like the throttle controller interrupted the CAN signal. I’d be curious to see how it works with the throttle controller installed after the tune is flashed.
To anyone that's done work on a boosted LS, I've got an LS1 with a turbo kit and suitable cam pushing out 550whp. I want more power but not looking into doing forged pistons/rods or stroker. I've been thinking ported heads but not sure I want to spend so much for little gains as I only know the gains on an NA setup which is like 30-40whp. Heads worth doing on a boosted setup? Thought about aftermarket intake manifolds too.
Love this! I tried to tell people that about the throttle controllers and they didn't believe me.. you can't make the signal go faster! you are just making it give more throttle.. dumb
The Chevy SS dyno hood open vs closed should make no difference as the Roto Fab setup on the SS is a closed lid design. The Camaro SS Roto Fab is an open design that seals against the hood, so while that may see a difference, it shouldn't be significant unless when closed the air intake exceeded the capacity of the inlet on the Roto Fab. The function of the throttle controller is to ramp up the signal to the throttle position sensor. Not make the signal faster, just show the throttle more open as he noted. Most also have an economy mode that does just the opposite. It looked like before he showed us the reflashed reduced power symptom that the controller was hooked up and the car was running fine. The throttle controllers will not make the car faster, they will not make the signal to open the throttle faster. They will make the pedal more touchy and/or require less pedal to do the same work under non full throttle conditions. In my case I have an N/A build with a fairly aggressive cam, with a throttle controller. It makes it much easier to come off of idle when engaging the clutch, without having to put so much pedal into a stop start traffic or traffic signal scenario. I enjoy your videos very much gentlemen, the shop comradery appears to be very good, and that makes for a productive crew that clearly puts out good work. Nice job guys.
Love the content! Not trying to add another step to filming the dyno process, but I feel like if you could show the DA for your runs it might shut up some of the haters. Maybe that's overkill. Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
That's what the correction factor is for, if we were using (Uncorrected) then maybe I could see doing it. But that's completely unnecessary for a dyno using a correction. At the track we always show it though.
the Gonz because that’s the size pulley the guy had on it......probably what came on the supercharger, he could get a smaller pulley if he wanted more boost obviously.
My car does that, my rpms only go to 5500 rpms before reduced engine power light comes on and it runs like it's on 2 cylinders!! I have to let it reset bout 10min now then runs better then ever with the check engine light on, takes bout 6 starts of engine for the check engine light to go off
Lol someone said that opening the hood makes a difference in power??? Naw the reason you keep the hood open is to help with heat soak amd the dyno wiring... so if people didn't know now you know
@@RaceProvenMotorsports, apparently, I misread, then.🤷🏾♂️ While I have your attention, I’m swapping an LS7 into my Datsun 240z (with the original carbureted L24 engine). I want to make sure that the fuel delivery system on my car will be equal to the task. Would you recommend that also swap out all of the original hard (metal) fuel lines with wider lines, and what type of fuel pump should I use (spec-wise)?🤔
Lesson learned ask customer to fill out a form of any and all mods done so if they don't mention everything then they have to pay extra for waisted time
As far as the red Camaro I really don't understand... Owners got the bread to bring it to RPM but still fuckin with the BS exhaust wraps and pedal commanders???? Either you got the bread or not, seems like he do and maybe it's new money to this owner but if he sees this comment it's time to let RPM do their thing and leave the ghetto shyt behind bro... That Camaro is way to nice to put that shyt on it
If they made a LT1 6.2 455hp with 8speed zf for 35gs other options available mon soon 100watt sound system dual mode exhaust as well as mag ride while offering a SSX Package that added spoiler flared fenders manual or 8speed 6.2 LT4 650hp the car would of done better. going LS3 with shitty 6speed was a mistake in my book.
The guy buys the super charger and then wrap and what ever that throttle control thing was, looking for more power I am guessing. Why not just do the super charger and cam. That cam he would get a nice jump in power. I hate the gadgets, go with the for sure power.
And that was a knock off brand of the pedal commander brand the most popular brand of those and they charge like $250-$300 for that little gas pedal module they are making a killing off those things
