almost unbelievable how well this video ties in with the Eric Karlson upload today. Nikken only sends the proj after he stops trying to do the crux move as technically sound as possible and embraces an ugly foot cut.
One of my favorite quotes that's also applicable to climbing: “There are no limits. There are plateaus, but you must not stay there, you must go beyond them.” -Bruce Lee
Cool, thanks. At some point pretty please tackle the issues of correctly jumping off, falling off, crashing from a boulder, whenever climbing down is not possible. Especially relevant when doing big "risky" moves like dynos at top out heights etc. Much appreciated.
I'll try the tip for roof sport climbing, it's hard finding advice on that, as most tips work for boulders or shorter section, but the project i'm currently working on is like a whole sport route but on a roof.
OMG I knew I've seen you before! I finally saw a climb in this video I recognized! I'll say hi next time I see you at Momentum! Edit: great video too! I love the technical discussions and the video showing what you're talking about!
A long overdue video. Excellent. I would add that beginner and intermediate climbers should learn this early; as some of these rules do not get broken; when needed to be broken; even by expert climbers. ( I have seen it occur at Nationals and World Cup events./ straight arms on catching dynamic moves being quite a common error. A suggestion for another video would be on when to use a full crimp rather than a more open position. Just discovered your site and as someone who has climbed for nearly 60 years; I find it to have very thorough and clear explanations.
Thanks for the kind words, and from a very seasoned climber nonetheless. I'm still learning more about finger positions. I jokingly use a motto to just "full crimp everything", but I've been discovering a lot of unexpected benefits of open hand positions, even in situations where I have to pull hard. The crimp video will come, just maybe farther down the line when I have a better understanding.
Thanks for the informative video! Small criticism: I found the flickering of the fire behind you to be distracting, and would have enjoyed the video more with out that.
Another senario where Pogo/barn door is good is when you need to jump sideway to a foot hold and/or need instant tension between the hand and the foot. Can't imagine using opposite hand and foot on such moves.😂
I will intentionally move more or waste more energy sometimes becouse i use climbing for body bulding, also i started doing repeat movements for things like awkward dynos or other moves that im uncomfortable with in order to train it
