Don't Install An Exterior Door Without This Kit! 

Oh dang! First I’ve heard of that!

Yep. I've been searching everywhere and it doesn't show up at all. Would be great if you have another recommendation.

@@RJScott Lowes sell a product call Jamsil which is the same pan used by DAP that I plan on ordering for a new door I am in the process of putting in.

Thanks for the kind words Creed, DAP designed the kit with the installer in mind and to help take the guess work out of selecting the correct product to use on installations.

The next step is likely to be in how we attach the door to the rough opening, switching over from 'nothing at all' or 'a wisp of fiberglass insulation' or 'adhesives' or 'spray foam', which get brittle and/or detach eventually, to rubber gaskets and shim screws. Air leakage condensation at the door weatherseal (which is a vendor thing) or the door rough opening (which is Risinger's domain) is now the weak spot. www.conservationtechnology.com/building_shimscrews.html www.conservationtechnology.com/building_gaskets.html

That decades old practice has left millions of doors with rotten sills and rough openings.

@@ultimatedad79 Where are you working? The only thing I consistent find with rotten sills is dutch doors. I'm in VA halfway between the Dismal Swamp and the beach.

@@kevinstrident Chicago area, so rain, plus wind and freeze/thaw. 50% of the time I've pulled a door or window off and found decay at some level. Some full rot, others show signs of moisture. Which is why for an extra 50 bucks or less per opening, why not?

That made me laugh, but still this is a legit video and a good practice it seems.

Where'd you find the kit, if you don't mind my asking. It's a ghost anywhere I've searched.

3 in security screw is plenty

Depending on the substrate, three inches is plenty. I agree with the half-inch nonsense. My personal favorite is when I go to yank a door frame (jamb for the grammar-N a z i s) and the entire frame, door, everything was held in place by the finishing staples through the brickwork and inside trim.

@@lethallyle8300 Yup, but I get where they were going with it. I wonder how many home improvement store doors still have the extra screws and foam pads stapled to the top of the door frame, sitting there installed and waiting, freshly packed for the next door install....

Thanks David! Appreciate your kind words means a lot from a fellow YT’r and IG guy. Keep up the great content my friend

@@buildshow - 🙏

@@bmay8818 - farther south than Eugene and Roseburg. Big fan of Essential Craftsman! We are currently finishing up a pole barn on the property with plans to start a guest cabin this summer. Always lots of work to do with not enough time!

@@buildshow so what about using this kit on replacing on old exterior door? there isn't a weather barrier there to do as in the instructions for a new install.

There's a link to order the kit in the original post. Click "show more" to see Matt's commentary and links.

John, what is coil? Thanks

Probably not.

Could it be to do with the wood itself? Aren't old-growth hardwoods, like you'd see in Ontario or the northeastern US, more resilient and resistance to water than OSB and fast-growing softwoods in use today? Could also be to do with the leakyness, where airflow - intentional or otherwise - actually dries damp areas in older homes. Still, I think you'd know better than me!

Hope Matt takes the time to answer this 👌 love your channel, Jeff!

Are builders doing much the same way it was done 125 years ago? I just reno'd a 25 year old house and there was water damage at every window and door, I wish these additional materials and labour were used, would have saved me a bundle. But, from what I understand, builders don't build to save the next guy money? Someone should be so lucky these items would be used, or better yet, be minimum code. Now I'm on to a 74 year old house, I'll be interested to see what lays beneath.

Old-growth hardwoods are dramatically superior on mold resistance to new-growth softwoods. The grain structure is much tighter & denser, and doesn't absorb as much water. Softwood planks are similarly better than plywood. Plywood is similarly better than most grades of OSB (where soaking permanently separates epoxy layers). We're dealing with materials that just aren't as good. Insulation makes it dramatically harder for wood to dry. When you soak wood in water, the longer it stays wet the more mold you get. Add up the hours it's damp and at medium-warm temperatures and you basically have a wear function that applies over any sort of timespan. 125 years ago we built most of a house from old-growth lumber, we didn't or barely insulated houses (which leaves the wood open to drying air), and we burned *enormous* amounts of fuel every winter to keep them just barely tolerable temperature. We didn't have air conditioning, so energy went only in one direction: A very nearly perfect condition for drying. Even so, most homes of this area are gone, one way or another; What we see is bound to have some survivorship bias. We're stressing our materials much more. This is why you've got to be extraordinarily delicate with thermal renovations, which if done poorly, can take a house that's stood for 100 years and make it damp enough for widespread mold/rot problems in 10. For most climates, you do not want to make any attempt to *waterproof* with eg polyethylene, oil-based paint, and vinyl close up against things, because this impairs drying and you'll never be 100% effective in installation or penetrations. You want to construct a wall that insulates and airseals, but which is still free to dry via direct moisture infiltration. Only use waterproof materials like metal flashing on difficult parts like corners and seams. The liquid water shedding solution has got to be *on point*, but you expect some windblown water to get in there in a storm, and you design so that it can get out. How's this change things? A few ways. If you want the house to last as long as possible without repeated repairs, you absolutely need things like a vented rainscreen cladding or exterior foam, a vented roof insulated at the ceiling or a double roof insulated with exterior foam, a service cavity to permit proper airsealing inside, and a meticulous approach to airsealing that considers it as complex as any other trade.

DAP will soon be adding 5 -1/4" jamb depth kits to accommodate for continuous foam exterior insulation. the 5-1/4" kit will be available in single and double door kits.

Spot on. All the “just fold the house wrap over the sill and jamb” people are 100% pure hack.

The products in the DAP Quick Kit meet industry specifications for products used for window and door installations. AAMA and ASTM standards and specifications are recognized and recommended by fenestration manufacturers. Meeting these specifications will ensure the best possible performance from the installation products and also the completed installation of the door or window.

@@dapspecline6353 Seems more like he's more about if todays tech is lasting the 30/40 years or do they peter out in protection 5 years after production. I'm also kind of with him. How many years has the human race built stick framed buildings you'd think that after this amount of time you'd find some tried and TRUE ( not just because I feel it's true ) techniques that all should follow. Why aren't houses built energy efficient from the get go. It should be the minimum, IMO, that all houses, not just high end custom built homes, should be energy efficient. Why are builders and designers not sizing HVAC to the correct size? Why aren't framers concerned about properly sealing the outside envelope. I think this is what he's trying to get at.

YES! This all the way. I think about this almost every day.

Peel the tabs...Just like bundles of newspapers back in the day.

More fun if you chug every time he says Caulk. lol

I believe that is to seal the jamb/brickmold joint . . Seems redundant if the painter does his job correctly .

I believe you are asking about the FrameSaver jambs by Endura. Been using them for over 15 years. Terrific products by Endura. Ask your Millwork suppliers about them

Appreciate that my friend. Very kind. Don’t think I’ll ever be on TV however. I’m too niche. Internet is for me.

Pretty sure the jambs come factory primed. Any exterior door I've installed is anyway.

I believe in a fully adhered system the peel and stick sticks to the jam, the sub straight ( the osb ) and the house wrap - at least that is how windows are flashed.