I watched about 20 of these door installation videos. This was by far the best and most informative. Really liked the jamb-side sheathing trick. I will be doing this later this week. Thanks for the help.
I build in Iowa but we have a builders network that is growing everyday. We design barndominiums all over the country email us at design@mrpostframe.com if you want more information.
First rate job on the door but you know as a former SWAT Officer that simply breaking on glass pane or a good kick and that door is open exposing contents. I like solid hardwood doors with HD deadbolts.
I hear ya. I spent 15 yrs in law enforcement my self on a task force and the good burglars do their homework and if they want in they are coming in. If I was building in areas where I worked in law enforcement I would use a solid steel door with a barrel hole for my gun to stick through. 😂
@@Riley_rolo they make steel security shutters that offer impact resistance or more. And windows that are impact resistance etc. but all is quiet expensive. Best to have sensors on all doors & windows as a supplement. I had a former police trained Rottweiler and he caught two crooks who were pros that came in their window. The were relieved with the cops came to arrest them as the dog was removed.
I’m thinking about putting 1/4” steel plate on heavy duty 1” round stock hinge pins on the inside that I can close up against my interior doors. But my wife only lets me think about it..
I've seen countless places (despite Typar refuting this in their install instructions) that you shouldn't bring any housewrap into the rough openings, and flash the entire RO instead, overlapping to the outside and cut your housewrap 2" from the RO and have the flashing overlap that, then sealant the interior and not exterior to allow water to dry and drain to the outside. Any thoughts??
How much of a jamb extension are having to use with "that" door,...which I think is a typical unit from a lumber yard? Can you order them with a wider jamb for a post frame? Windows too?
For interior and exterior girts you need an 8.5” jamb. The doors are more expensive this way, but If you have a door that opens up into a 90 degree wall or a door with sidelights you don’t necessarily need the extended jamb as the door will open fine with 6 9/16 jamb thickness which is a standard door for a lot of places.
What length fasteners did you use for each step. If you don't mind. Also, if I'm trying to replace the brick mold what length fastener would u recommend for that.
The screws that go into the hinges usually come with the door. For the rest, a good 3"-3.5" screw would probably work in most scenarios. For the brickmold measure it's thickness and add another inch or so. 2.5" brads or finish nails would probably work fine.
