James, You may be very good at writing code...but your greater value to humanity is in your ability to teach. You are without question one of the greatest teachers on youtube. Thanks.
This video is wonderful. I would really like to thank you for taking the time to make it. It clearly, and concisely explains how to wire up a RAW voltage connection for langmuir system plasma table. I was having trouble for days trying to get my system working. I spent hours combing over message boards, and help pages that were helpful but led m down rabbit holes without solving the issue.. This video helped me to retrace my stems, taught me what to check for, what each system does, how to tap into them, even how to use a voltometer to check for continuity. After and during watching this I was able to track down my system problems and immediately start cutting.... Thank you so much for making this. You made my day.
Just wanted to point out you probably should have a separate air dryer, either a large desiccant dryer or refrigerated air dryer as you will still get moisture in the lines. I've destroyed dozens of plasma torch heads and rusted many many parts during sand blasting even with an inline filter at the end of the air line, an air filter mounted on the plasma cutter and another filter at the compressor. Dedicated air dryers make a night and day difference.
Depends on your humidity. I live in a desert and on the most humid days we get nothing out of the dryers( compressors are 50 hp screws). Now when I was in GA my pancake compressor had what seemed like more water than air.
There is a pretty simple way to know if you need to do something for most things, just point your spray gun/torch/blower/whatever at a piece of dry cardboard at normal working distance and see if you get a damp spot. Humidity, temp, tank pressure, tank temp, dew point, working pressure, flow, it all effects weather you will get condensation out of exhausted air or not. For most things that is all you care about. No inline filter/descant dryer will help with this, they simply lack the capacity but a column separator or adding an after cooler to the pump can usually condense it out. For things where you actually need dry air, powder coating, difficult paints, sensitive to caking blasting media, you will need a refrigerated air dryer. Just a heads up out of personal experience, 2 stage pumps seem to push a lot more water down the line than a single stage, single stage is also far more efficient running things like a sand blaster or other high volume tools but max psi will drop from 175-200 down to around 140-150. That generally makes no difference at all in a home shop though.
He's never had to dry 3d printing filament and he's used cf nylon, so I'm gonna say it's pretty dry where he lives. Doesn't affect the fact that compressors cause condensation, etc, just a data point.
I like my "toilet paper" air dryer. It works well. I do have a series of 1" copper loops mounted to my wall with valves at the bottom of each loop that collects most of the moisture and the filter removes the rest.
If you want a DIY air dryer. Use a whole house water filter housing filled with Fresh Step Crystal kitty litter. Put it in the air in line of the air compressor. The crystals won't change color when getting saturated, but you can put a small hydrometer in the housing so you can see the gauges Jerry in Pa..
I, for one, always enjoy your teaching style as well as offering cautions to your viewers about the dangers of trying things at home that they might not fully understand.
I looked at one of these tables 2 years ago. I was at a welding class (with someone that is big on youtube) He had the table and reviewed it. He had nothing good to say about it, but his standards are probably far above what my needs are. You make a good point, chances are, anything that doesn't meet your needs, you are plenty capable of correcting. I'm excited to see what you do, maybe it will come back on my list again! BTW, I would go with the Hypertherm 45, why? 15 more numbers of course!
Hi James, I suggest sheathing the red and black HV leads carrying the torch height info. Over here they would be double layer insulated and I think it would be wise to guard against mechanical damage. Spiral wrap? BobUK,
As usual another great video James. I have my Crossfire over a year now and love it. Using the PrimeWeld CUT60 successfully. I'm running Mach3 (I don't like being "locked-in" to a manufacturer's control system) on my shop-floor Dell Optiplex 780 PC. Built my own CNC controller and integrated my own Torch Height Control (THC) using the RobotT3T and built my own floating head Z-axis. I 3D print my machine torch holders in PLA (they last about 1-year). Great machine the Langmuir Crossfire, and they have a great and very informative and active forum.
"Don't do it... It's easy but don't do it" 🤣🤣 Clean install 👍👍 I actually have the 45XP for manual cuts but when I bought it I intended to put it on a table (not yet had the time in almost 2 years... But it's on its way 😍) so I took the CNC package with the mech torch and the preinstalled communication module and added the manual torch... In Belgium it was cheaper than buying the "manual package" and add the mech torch and the module (and you then have to install it yourself...) Good machine by the way 👍 What I found odd on the 30xp is that the filter is inside the box... On the 45xp it is recessed but accessible from the outside (with tiny hands... But still...) And it needs cleaning every now and then... Are you "allowed" to open the box to clean the filter?
Hi James In regards to plasma cutting you might want to invest in line desecant air dryer filter it will prolonged your Consumables and results will be alot better in the long run. I built my cnc plasma table. I am going to get in the future a refrigerator dryer. This will help with moisture in the air.
Ah man, you're just making me more excited to get the rest of my Crossfire parts here! I ordered the RazorCut45 with mine so I won't need to do any fancy wiring I shouldn't be doing. My handheld unit I already (Eastwood VersaCut 40) have IS high frequency unfortunately. Given your level of experience with F360 and CNC I expect your setting up of the post processing should be pretty quickly accomplished.... let's see some cuts, James!
Phew that was close, I did this at "home" a few years ago. Luckily it was on the older powermax 30, not the XP, so it's ok right? Cool to finally see someone else do this, and their approach. Mine didn't have one of those voltage dividers since the cnc was shop built, but it wasn't too hard to build and I shoved the circuit for it into the case so that it didn't bring the high voltage outside the case other than torch/work clamp... Then I got lazy with the height probe circuit ("ohmic" or contact probe) and brought it outside the case anyway because space inside the plasma case was getting tight (it's almost like they don't want you shoving extra circuitry in there?) and I'd already installed and wired up a 6 pin plug and would need a 10/12 pins at least to shove the probe circuit inside the case, and I couldn't be bothered. I'm glad I did this way since the probe circuit tends to blow a chip every now and then, and having it easily accessible outside the case ended up being very useful. The probe circuit for me went in with the rest of the control electronics Side note for anyone following along at home the powermax 30 (not sure about the XP) actually has two relatively beefy leads in the torch. I believe the second one is for the pilot arc, and if memory serves you can only connect one of them to your voltage divider, the other will have a pretty much constant voltage with regards to the work clamp regardless of torch height.
It's great to see that these cheaper Hypertherm units can be used for CNC. My only complaint about the THC kit that you used is that the voltage divider is external - I would have liked to see only low voltage signals leaving the Hypertherm unit's case. (Aside from the torch, of course!)
Who do we know that could re-home all the guts into a new, custom made case? Heh, James could do that so well that a factory tech would be wondering when that model was made...
I'd probably go the other direction. The circuit inside the THC is very simple. It would be pretty straightforward to make a version that fits inside the case. Hmm...
My line of thoughts was maybe figure out the schematic of the HV regulator inside the unit and tap into the torch voltage before it becomes HV? Say, input of an op-amp as oppose to the output.
Another outstanding tutorial and dialog. As you rightfully explain, no mater what it is; or how simple it seems; SAFETY, SAFETY, SAFETY 1ST !!!!! Check, double check and check again.....a body part or your life aren't worth the chance.
Hi James, why not wire in a switch on the front for the fire control manual vs CNC? that way the ghost in the pc won't be tempted to toast you when using it manually :)
Good idea, one issue being 'oops, I forgot'. One thought is putting another switch on the CNC mount: if the head is not in place, the CNC cannot fire it.
Awesome video. how has the 30xp held up on the table? haven't seen any cnc plasma on your channel in awhile.... Im looking at this same setup. can you still recommenced the 30xp?
I have a cutmaster 42 by victor. Doesn’t have a Cnc port so I need to first tap into mine to fire like you mention. Then I have a thc like you mentioned that I need to hook up! From what I hear is if you use a thc and a floating head attachment that’s the best way that way you would not need a ohmic sensor. Also I’m up in the air if I should use millrights supplied board that runs UGS or one of the following 1. Myplasma 2. Masso 3. Centroid acorn (which I currently run on my Bridgeport but they are currently in beta on the plasma. If they release it soon this may be my go to board)
Great video. My 2 cents worth by all means use it every time with water. Otherwise it will deposit metal powder all over your shop. I have been told that if you put some borax in the water it will not rust so bad. Oh and like some of the others suggest you really do need an air dryer. I can assure you that water will get to the torch otherwise.
Very cool, I basically have the CrossFire setup that you have except that I bought the HyperTherm Powermax 30 Air. I went though the same exercise last week, connecting the torch control and hooking up the VIM. I look forward to more posts about the CrossFire
@@matthewhagans4372 I'm still trying to get the settings right. One thing I've learned about the Air is you have to adjust the pierce delay to give it enough time to ramp up the compressor
The Powermax 45 I have has an integral CPC port and has a voltage divider on the main board wired to the CPC. (I'm still wary of non divided current going towards my systems control box on my CNC, so I would have still used a divider circuit) *I also made my own CPC cable, because they're using off the shelf parts you can get at digikey... The problem with Hypertherm machine torch operation from the CPC, is that the wiring of the torch to the connector is different, and is required. (They built a failsafe wire that isn't in a hand torch, and is wired to different pins. So either you pay their high priced fee for a machine torch (about a grand) Or you hack your hand torch, and make it much harder to use as just a hand torch. I opted to use a lathe to make an acetal housing for a custom connector (the brass fitting is the real challenge bit, and the DIN pin alignment and indexing SUCKS) Then I could purchase a machine torch head from eBay, and then proceed to make my own lead for it. (It even offers the ability to use better and more robust materials for the lead...) --- Instead of their high priced machine torch, I opted to buy a lathe, and make my own connector... Glad we can all hack our stuff and make it do what we need it to.
Hi James, very interested in hearing how it goes with the plasma table and your other machines in that space WRT humidity and dust/grit/smoke residue. I hope you'll update us as you spend time with it
RIP to your beautifully clean workshop. If you can put an exhaust hood over the machine, in addition to the water table, I'd strongly recommend it. You should also build an electromagnetic vise with some MOTs for holding pieces while you knock off the dross - it's a massive timesaver.
Thanks for the video i followed the video to the tee but with one expected because i dont have that part and my question is if i dont have that part which the high frequency device that you connect to the electro negative and electro positive ( ground ) I tried it but could not get any conductivity . Well does this mean my plasma wont work ? And hows is it still running for you the plasma 30 air ? Well thanks for the great video your a professional thanks
Several things: First great video and clear explanation of what you are doing I love watching your videos. Second, do you have a connection with Langmuir Systems that benefits you when I purchase one of their systems? Third, I like the computer setup you have and I must have missed your video where you discussed the details of the one you’re using. Would you be able to provide info on the details of the Asus you are using?
Can you say what the full ara of the table is and the work area? I am thinking about buying one, but they all focus on “working” area and I want to know how much actual space it will take up
Dang I'm so glad I have a heavy electric service at my house.. 200a service, my welder ALONE is on a 100a breaker lol....I couldn't survive with a 100a service total lol
My formal education is in computer science. Everything else is self taught. Though to be fair, even what you learn in college is self taught--you just pay someone to tell you what to study.
While you were at it you should have rerouted the power switch to the front panel, instead of the idiotic place on the back panel... Never understood why they put them there. For when you are using it manually you could have installed a safety CNC disable firing switch so you know it cannot be set off. Thanks for showing this. It is close to what I would be likely to setup. On your power, it doesn't matter if you only have 100A, you can install much more output than available because they are not likely to all be running at the same time. So the only real limitation would be the wire size to the plug.
Wouldn't want to try to run an 85A plasma cutter, a 5HP air compressor, the air conditioning in the house and in the shop, and a load of laundry in the dryer, though.
Are you sure that it'll void machine's warranty? I have a Hypertherm 45XP with machine torch and my manual states that you should service the unit by taking off its cover (and cleaning the insides), which gives you complete access to the circuitry and air system.
We have a much bigger water table plasma where I work and we’ve found that mosquitoes love to breed and the water. Something you might want to be aware of.
Followed your video to wire up my new Crossfire...worked perfect! Thanks much. One question.. any idea how to load .nc files in to Firecontrol? Only seems to recognize .tap files
Hi sorry to bother you. I most say love your channel. But I have a little question I have a cnc 2.5m l by 1.10m w and a 80 amp plasma.. My only problem is I only have my garage to electric box which is a common box UK. How many amps should my breaker board have to sopport the plasmas on the cnc? I would extremely appreciate your help as I have no clue what I should do... I rather work on mechanical systems than electric hahaha I feel safer
Just a thought, $2000 to $4000 might be a good investment to upgrade the 100 amp panel to 200 amps. Consider Square D as a panel. It's only 2 cents worth.
It’s been my experience that the incoming conductors (wires) do not need to be upsized. All that is needed is maybe a meter change and a new 200 amp main breaker panel be installed be a qualified electrician, and of course a permit is required.
you used a meter to check the voltage of the caps? damn, I always thought standard procedure to check for voltage was bridging the leads with a screwdriver
Also get hypertherm powermax 45 Mchanized consumables this works on the 30 xp torch also kirf on cutting use the powermax 45 chart and dial feed and speeds while cutting it will be alott better cutting process also fine cut consumables work good but don't try cutting hot rolled a36 use pno cold roll it won't blowback mill scale back up into your Torch tip. As for size of plasma machine I used powermax 85 on 50 amp service off my miller bobcat 225 with no problems and at home to I also run powermax 45xp it cuts great cnc plasma table. There are two guys on RU-vid tool junkie and another Joshua Zimmerman guy are subject matter experts with langmuir tables. And hypertherm plasma cutter.
James I run 40 amps braker on my 45xp as inverter machine it does not require 50 and 45xp runs flawless no problems I cut alot of a36 and ar400 .380 .500 .625 Some small production runs .750 my electric services 200 amps my big Plasma runs 100 amps it cuts up to 2inch thick. Thermal dynamics cutmaster.
@@cjtroutt8092 yeah. The circuit I have available is 30A. Things start getting tight if I want to run the plasma, the air compressor, and the air conditioner and someone wants to cook dinner.
Do things in this order: 1. Unplug, remove cover 2. Use voltmeter rated for 400+VDC, with good insulation on the leads, to verify that lethal voltages are not present 3. Touch anything inside Someone I know once touched the inside of a camera strobe that had been off for two weeks. His scream was clearly audible at the other end of the house. Perhaps battery-powered camera strobes are a special case; storage capacitors should have bleeder resistors -- and 'should' is not the same as 'do, and Purchasing didn't get crappy ones that failed, and the assembler put them in place, and the terminals didn't corrode, and they still work'. I like to limit the number of people and pieces of equipment that I trust my life to.
Would absolutely love to see you pull out the circuitboard of that machine and go over it… “Big Clive style”...... or even better.., do it “AvE style”! hook it up backwards and blow it up before you get a chance to use it 😂
And I didn’t mean any hate towards AvE, 😂👍 he’s thought me more about electronics over the past five years..... than I’ve learned anywhere else! I wouldn’t have started my business without his influence. I already had a business and was four years back ordered building guitars and violins for professional musicians. I knew LESS THAN NOTHING about electronics. But a few of his videos and explanations of circuitry… It got me tinkering… The next thing I knew......three years later..... I had my own lab doing component level board repair for industrial clients. And I specialize in test equipment repair/calibration & metrology. I’m just as busy and happy as I ever was doing full-time woodwork.....And I’ve learned an incredible amount of things… And have skills I never thought I was capable of! you RU-vid folks and especially creators like yourself… have an insane amount of influence on your audience! Sorry to ramble… I know I’ve left this comment on a few of your other videos but I would just really love it if you could make a few more circuit board and troubleshooting related videos. The few electronics videos you’ve shared with us have been awesome! especially the video last year where you were troubleshooting the DMX amplifier board. That was a very insightful and information packed video! It would be awesome if you could do a few other videos showing quick troubleshooting of circuit boards. Nothing fancy.... just some broken power supply or other board/circuit commonly found in industrial and consumer level products.… show us how to troubleshoot and find common faults. I constantly have clients and friends ask me to teach them… But I’m not good at explaining things. I try to encourage them to go online and watch a few videos. The only videos I’m aware of on RU-vid that give a good and quick general overview of troubleshooting… Are on the “diode gone wild” channel. He has a few videos troubleshooting power supplies… And within 30 minutes pretty much explains how to find and test every common problem. Other than his videos… There is a HUGE VOID and quick and easy troubleshooting videos on RU-vid. Someone would have to watch 100 hours of content just to grasp the basic ideas of how to find and test issues. I love my test equipment and professional gear like they are my children… But 90% of the boards that come through my shop… Could be quickly and easily tested and fixed with less than $100 of tools. Including a decent but cheap multimeter, a $30 in circuit ESR tester, and a $25 CHEAPO Oscilloscope. There are some really nice tools and pieces of kit that can be had extremely cheaply. One needs to recognize their limits… But its the golden age of decent and cheap test equipment and tooling.
I had a nice 76 f150 almost burn down because the previous owner used those insulation piercing connectors. I absolutely hate them! Please take a few extra minutes to do the job correctly, they remind me of the stab connections on the back of outlets which imo should be outlawed! There again almost had a house fire because previous owner decided to save 10 seconds and use the stabs instead of the screw lugs.
I spent a week rewiring someones Langmuir system to be compliant with even the most basic of CNC standards and fixed numerous safety issues. Not to mention these beginner tables should have physical limit switch’s for safety reasons but they can’t for numerous reasons. mainly because they have so much EMI/EMF noise they get false triggers. The solution wasn’t proper wire/cables, wiring practices/management, grounding, and adequate power sources.... it was to remove all accessories and just make more money. Snake oil. Cheep. Shameful. The Langmuir consumer just throws more and more money at their sub par equipment! I’m going to start a business building better machines for the same price point just to kick in Langmuir’s front door.
Just cause the house is 100 amp only is no sign you cant put a 50 amp in the garage just a little common sense and don't run everything at the same time Stop playing with sheet metal toys and go 45 XP with a Duramax machine torch. CPC connector is ready to rock.
It’s not only gross but unless I’m wrong it is black iron oxide…which is an abrasive. Very bad for machine ways. I keep my plasma cutter in a building that is separate from where my machine tools are located. I also have a 36 inch exhaust fan above it.
@@Clough42 probably best. Maybe wipe your ways before using your machines for good measure. Even a large fan blowing out the door might help. But yes, from experience, that dust goes evvverywhere
@@Clough42 An hour of running a 40amp plasma in a 3 car garage left more dust/grit on everything than a day of sanding bondo/primer or all the over spray from painting a whole car. If you have a clean shop, you do not want to run it in there without taking serious measures to manage the literal fallout first. I roll mine out to the driveway winter or not now, I dont have neighbors though, and still have to clean the dust up or it rust stains the driveway. Stuff Made Here, did a downdraft setup that seemed to exhaust it out well.
@@Clough42 I like tho do a good job with everything that I do some things AR not tho play with connect will be a little easy fix the rest of the video I loved very much I'm going to look more on your channel I could definitely learn a love from you and knowledge is power