Since 12800 is not a native iso on FX30, it should look just like 2500iso pushed to higher exposure in theory. I think the main factor here is noise reduction in camera, since the camera will use more aggresive noise reduction if you bump up the iso.
Correct. 12800 has in body NR cranked which is NOT what you want. You should shoot in 2500 or base 800 and apply your NR in resolve sparingly. Increasing iSO is NOT increasing exposure.
I really don't understand the various "filmmakers" on you tube. Let's end it once and for all. Cine EI is designed to be used in controlled shooting conditions. Not to be used for vlog and similar everyday activities. If you don't have the whole team, gaffers, lights, flags, etc etc, using EI is pointless. It seems that many still do not understand how EI works and what it is used for
Not true bro if you use a light meter with Cine EI you can do any thing with it point blank it’s made for film making just as you said you can use it as a creative tool just like everything else. Stop discouraging up and coming filmmakers who are trying to express their art it’s not just used for that and with the things you named
I noticed noise in general is just SUCH a weird issue to deal with in post and shooting in general. If I over expose 2 stops shooting my FX30 in RAW? Theres alot of times I'll punch in and notice I barely see any noise at all...and thats RAW.
I always aim for the base ISO’s (with ND filters…)- but I also find that pushing the ISO higher than 2500 stays very clean when needed (up to 6400) on the FX30… I think the camera does as good or better job of internal NR than you can do in post.
I wish I had seen this before my recent gig where I was asked to shoot in S-Log. Although I don't usually use S-Log as often as I should, this video has really helped me grasp its potential. Thanks to the valuable insights shared, I now feel more confident in incorporating S-Log into my future projects. thanks No limits!
@@NOlimitsON My question is: to know if I have good light and have +2 E.V, do I have to point at the light or at the object I'm going to film? I apologize for my question, but I've always had this doubt and no one talks about it. Because, imagine that you have a light on the right side but the person is darker, should I measure the 2+EV pointing at the light or at the person?
Really appreciate your video and explanations, I'm very upset with the amount of noise I'm getting on the fx30, but, as you explained, the problem must be that I was stuck at 2500 trying to keep it and not Exposing tô the right... Thanks!!
Base iso is not about noise performance, it's about dynamic range. Maybe you will get cleaner shadows at 12800 iso, but you will lose a hell lot of dynamic range.
So, I showed you two images side by side (with native iso and with 12800 iso) - did you notice any difference in dynamic range? Maybe some crushed shadows or blown out highlights?) I do get it, but it’s not as dramatic as you may think
I think you should reconsider the advice you’re giving in this video. You don’t even acknowledge the in body noise reduction at 12800 which you can’t turn off. Also, increasing ISO is not increasing exposure.
You saw the test results, I’ve been applying this technique for more than half a year and getting consistent results, so maybe you should reconsider your comment 😉
Why do you think no one has pointed out how 12800 ISO is cleaner than 2500 on the FX30? It almost suggests that the FX30 has a 2nd base ISO of 12800 given that it's cleaner than 2500 in low light. Thank you for pointing this out. I'm going to shoot some more in 12800 with my FX30. It's a pretty big find.
Bro, you confuse fx3 and fx30. FX3 has native iso of 800 and 128000 in slog3, when the fx30 has 800 and 2500 in slog3. The thing is not in a certain iso value, it’s all about exposing brighter))
I dont really get what you're saying? As CineEI is always shooting at base ISO and using CineEI with the s709 LUT will trick you into overexposing your shots (Eg EI400, EI200) to get a better noise level once you bring it down in post. You don't make any sense when you say why not to use it? Cine EI is just shooting in Base ISO (proper thing to do), ETTR (proper thing to do), so why not CineEI?
Because in extreme lowlight 2500 base iso in cine ei isn’t enough. And you get better results shooting at 16000 iso for example (but ettr), than using cine ei at 2500 and underexposing. Got me?
@@NOlimitsON I’ve owned FX6 and FX3 and in extreme lowlight, literally night time with just street lights illumination the correct thing to do is use the widest lens possible, I use the 24mm f1.4, and expose in EI3200 for flawless virtually noiseless blacks, EI3200 is still recording at the second base ISO of 12,800, but is two stops over exposed so has an effective ISO of 51200 with the noise level of a 12,800 base iso, but then in post you bring down the exposure by two stops and when you bring it down the shadows are hella clean
@@NOlimitsONthey didn‘t get you. Omg what he will tell us is not so complecated:-) if you film in extrem low light with 2500 Base ISO them you surely underexpoesed because of apsc. Then you get extrem noise.
someone please help lol... I just bought the fx30 & it won't let me use AUTOFOCUS on Movie Mode. Anytime I try it says "Invalid with this lens. if the lens has an af/mf switch perform it that way" which I don't have the option on the lens - it was designed to be done digitally so something seems wrong seeing as my autofocus works just fine when I switch to manual mode... even my autofocus starts to work temporarily when I switch back to movie mode but switches back to MF on its own after time or if I go into the menus.
Have you ever notice that shooting at extreme low light situations where you have very minimum light, the standard rec709 profile produce better image than slog3 with maximum iso on FX30 camera? What are your thoughts about it?
As I said in the video - it all depends on the exposure that you get raising the iso. I have a big test video about high ISO with different picture profiles which clearly shows that if you expose correctly (at +2 stops with slog) - you get much better results with slog.
@@NOlimitsON Thanks for very informative videos. I understand that if we have ability to expose +2E.V in slog3 - this profile is the best. But what if we do not have ability to expose +2E.V or even to 0E.V, because some times it happens in run&gun situations where you cannot control the light and where is almost no light.
What about very dark scenes? I am shooting for a very dark an moody museum with only spotlights lighting up paintings and artworks. It basically impossible to see the customers without crazy noise levels. Im going crazy trying to fix it.
So, the conclusion is that it doesn’t make sense to LOSE dynamic range when using flexible ISO , but it definitely lose some shadow detail, Right? I’ve always been staying tuned, but sometimes RU-vid didn’t notice me even though I have the notification on
Very interesting I need to give a try. I often found myself in difficult situations where I can't bring more light, but wanna stick to base ISO (2500) to avoid noise. Results are most of the time a bit disappointing ... And this is most probably due to underexposed image. If I well summarize, you advise to pump the ISO, trust in camera NR, so that color grading will be less noiser than sticking to base ISO (supposed to provide less noise) but as it's underexposed, finally bring more noise ... !
What if situation is so dark that even with 12800 iso I underexpose with my fx30? Is it better to come closer for overexposing in slog or should I just stick with higher base iso (2500)?
Thanks for the video. This seems... really weird. Although second ISO's are (as far as I know) meant to provide a higher ISO with better dynamic range than the ISO values that immediately preceede it, they also generally provide less noise, too. Are the ISO values between 2500 and 12800 noisier than ISO 2500? Or are they cleaner than 2500?
To be honest, there is no such thing as noisier value of ISO, for example if you expose iso 16000 correctly (at +2 stops as I show in the video) and also at native iso 800 (but you underexpose 2 stops) - after grading 16000 will look cleaner. You can even test it yourself) so in general exposure is A LOT more important than certain iso values. Especially on the FX30. I’d prefer to keep the iso as low as possible, but if I know I have a risk of underexposing - I bump the iso and don’t worry
In case you can gain through apperture those 2.0 stops , would you stick to the Native highest (in my case 2500 in the FX30). I am still trying to understand the camera in low light situations.
Use lut calc to understand your camera sensor and exposure potential I’ve been using it and I am building a solid system around it to maximize my cameras full potential.
