i had track day today with the GR yaris it was awesome, about to edit my first track day clip (expected to be shitty) and getting here to see the software that you recommended. thanks again sir.
My issue is that track day footage looks incredibly slow compared to real life. Flat out around a curve is thrilling as stuff flies past you, but the camera makes it look like you're going normal street speeds.
It's a tough problem indeed. I've found that mounting the camera low (around dashboard height or lower), using the 170 degree wide angle setting, and un-warping the footage using Action Cam Warp effect in HitFilm helps preserve the sense of speed in the footage. You need to capture your audio from somewhere inside the cabin too, because the wind noise will absolutely obliterate the onboard mic in your camera. It takes quite a bit of work, but it's worth it if you can pull it off.
@@BillySabillon123I like the BOYA BY-M1 (and its variants) as an external mic for action cams. You might need an adapter if your camera doesn't have a 1/8" audio in port, but it's well worth it for the improved audio quality. Some action cams have an internal amplifier for the external microphones, while some others don't. You will want to do some test recordings with the inline mic amp on and off to see which sounds better. If you're recording from inside the engine bay, I would also recommend taping the mic down against a rubber or plastic surface so you don't pick up suspension clunks and road debris. If you still get a lot of background noise, try taping the mic to the passenger side floor of your car near the firewall. You can often get good, clean engine sounds that way.
I did this for my track day on Saturday, while it did help make the speed look like more than 10mph, it made EVERYTHING blurry. Take a look at my Most recent 2 videos-- 24FPS, 1/48 Shutter, ISO 100, ND16 (Cloudy Day), Wide View, 2.7k, GoPro 5 Hero, Stabalization On. If there's better settings to use. please let me know. All n all i do like the outcome better than before.
@@Black16STI I had similar settings with My hero 8 in my most recent video. However, I did 4k 30fps 1/60 shutter instead. I also set my sharpness to low and color to flat(adjust them to your liking in editing).
Solid video, never knew about the gps data on these cameras, if your good with after effects you can get more professional looking results than them templates also.
Aren't they? Their action cams lack a few features compared to the latest GoPros but the quality of the video is superb. Plus you can find gently used examples for under $200 on ebay nowadays so they're totally affordable too.
I use Sony Action cams. They're older models (and probably discontinued at this point), but they still work so I keep using them. If any of them go out, I would probably replace it with an Insta360 One R.
You're right. The stabilization on newer GoPros and action cams have come a long way. They still get a little confused under hard cornering, but it's much better than it was only a few short years ago.
PAL is a system for analog-video. I haven't seen anyone using it for at least 10 years now (I am from Germany where PAL was the standard). Today we have the same digital systems everywhere in the world.
What a nonsense. PAL is standard in EU because of our electricity power. In EU we have 50Hz in USA 60Hz. You must use PAL (25/50/100fps) in EU otherwise u will have light flickering like in this example: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KHQLWalXl40.html&ab_channel=jmibk In USA use 30/60/120fps.
I took a look at some of your videos (nice channel, by the way!), and I think I see what you mean. I usually see that kind of blocky distortion when I have the bitrate set too low in my video editing software. Do you happen to know what kind of codec and bitrate settings you use when you export your video from your editor? For reference, I export all of my 1080p videos with the H264 video codec, with Variable Bitrate enabled and a target Bitrate of 16 Mbps. RU-vid compression seems to do pretty well when I use those settings.
How do you get better audio with a microphone? At lower speeds the engine comes in nice and clear. At high speeds, there is way too much noise from the wind. Any recommendations? Thanks.
I like to shroud the microphone as much as I can to keep the wind noise down. If your camera has an external microphone port, try plugging in a lapel mic and taping the mic head to a location that is shielded from the wind (e.g. behind the drivers seat or on the floor). If not, a few layers of masking tape over the microphone grille can make a noticeable difference.
@@5150Santo I don't have much firsthand experience with the Hero 9, but I asked a few of my fellow racers, and they recommended the Movo ACM400. Apparently it is one of the few cheap lapel mics that produce clean audio on the Hero 9. You might need the media mod to plug it in, since the Movo plugs into a standard 3.5mm mic jack.
Pedal cams are surprisingly tough to pull off. You need a small camera that does very well in low light, and a very sturdy mounting surface that doesn't vibrate. On a street car, I would probably do something like put a GoPro Session on the hard trim surrounding the steering column, and point it straight at the pedals. Depending on the car, you might need a LED sticky light to illuminate the area to make sure the footage isn't all grainy. On a race car without a full dashboard, I would hang a mount off of the dash bar on the roll cage and offset it so you can see the pedals from an angle. This will give you a similar result to the old Best Motoring / Hot Version setups.
Yes there is actually. After you load up the data and configure your gauges in Dashware, you can go into the File menu and click on Create Gauge Image Sequence button to export the gauges as a PNG sequence.
@@StudioVRM Tkns m8 this is way better than VIR8, in there i had to export the video and them it will create the png sequens i like to use premier so i use this for the gouges png sequense ♥
If you mount the camera to the cage with a solid enough mount, the vibrations won't come through. The IOPort camera mount is still my favorite for these types of applications. That said, I would never turn down the opportunity to play with a 3 axis gimbal. Those things produce amazing looking footage.
If you want your in car video to look cinematic, I would recommend converting it down to 24 fps. 24 fps gives it a surreal look that is visually very interesting.
If you have crazy vibrations coming through on your in car footage, I would look at your mounts before turning on stabilization. Decent camera mounts are very affordable nowadays and current digital video stabilization algorithms have a lot of trouble dealing with the high frequency vibrations that your car produces at speed.
@@StudioVRM I’m going to test today. I’ve tried head rest mounts as well as seat rail mounts. Now using a suction cup mount, mounted to sunroof window. I’ll remove stabilization - it’ll be a good test up and down hills and winding roads. This time not using a cell phone but a GoPro Hero8 Black.
@@gmontenegro9711 Using a gopro instead of a cell phone will also help. Cell phones have a lot of mass to them, so they tend to really shake the mounts when you hit a bump. The gopro is much lighter so you'll see a lot less vibration and movement, even on the same mount.
@@StudioVRM sweet! I’m looking forward to it. I don’t do any track, just spirited driving through backroads (California is infamous for all its vistas). So the roads aren’t always smooth as a track’s surface. That’s been the biggest challenge of acceleration, hard braking, taking curves etc..
@@gmontenegro9711 Ah yeah, that's always a challenge. I think you might be pleasantly surprised when you switch to the gopro. Most phone cameras also have a rolling shutter that works kind of slowly. So if the phone is jarred suddenly (like when you drive over a big bump or pothole), it causes some weird distortion in the footage that doesn't go away until the phone goes back to being perfectly still. Gopros and other action cams are much more resilient to that kind of thing. You might get some shaky footage but it won't have crazy warping and jello-like motions. And shaky footage can always be fixed in a video editor as long as you shoot at high enough a frame rate.