For the final U-joint in the double cardan, it's easiest to install one set of opposing end caps (the ones that will NOT get the spring clips) then with those in their happy place, nestled against the end yoke assembly, work either side of the u-joint down till you can slip the end caps into the machined ends of the cardan and tap tap tap both sides till they are flush and can be punched so that the spring clips can be inserted. Way easier and you don't have to phone a friend. So basically opposite order of his final step.
I know this is old but to whoever is watching this...With the final ujoint if you install the bearing caps in the Cardan first then press the caps in it makes things a lot easier. I use bailing wire around the ujoint to hold pressure on the Cardan spring..One man job that way and pretty easy to boot...
I did this on my s10 last year and the funny part was none of the local parts stores adv auto, auto zone, Napa knew what a cardan joint was. I found the only rebuild kit for my truck at napa (part PUJ-606) but still had to tell them the part number to get it.
On the last U-joint, you are supposed to put the "most difficult" caps on the u-joint first then slide the u-joint into the cradle. Don't put the other caps on that u-joint until you put it in the cradle.
The greasable U-joints are not advisable for the cardon joint (although my SYE kit came with them and wasn't cheap)! Spicer recommends that you grease them every 6000 miles and the needle type zerks are no fun to grease if you have them. Non-greasable, 5-1310X is the way to go. They will last 50,000 miles or more and they are 30% stronger than the greasable type.
@@KSuspension You got lucky. MUCH better putting it in a vice and slowly pressing the caps in. Get them pressed in a little to the trunnions on the cross will engage each set of needles together and then you can hammer them home or just use the vice. I have rebuilt a bunch of these since the 70's, yes I am old.
You intentionally skipped over the drama of getting the Caran joint apart. Look like you also skipped over some assembly woes. I got stuck today on a cardan joint that didn't want to come apart and wanted to make sure I was doing it correctly. Everything I'm see says, yes, yes I was doing it correctly.
Hey you forgot the most important piece of information regarding greaseable U-joints. THE JOINT MUST BE INSTALLED IN A MANNER THAT WHILE DRIVING FORWARD THE TORQUE COMPRESSES ON THE GREASE FITTING. YOU DONT WANT TORQUE PULLING ON THE FITTING, THIS WILL CAUSE IT TO BREAK
What are you stuck on? It’s pretty self explanatory. If you need some guidance or extra assistance, email us and we’ll do what we can suspensionlifts@gmail.com
I dont' understand why you say don't get the greasable ones because they are weaker. I always get the greasable ones and have never had one break. Unless you have a supercharger or something why aren't the greasable ones strong enough? Just curious.
A short shaft makes the angles steeper, leading to vibration. Every time the drive shaft rotates, the shaft has to accelerate and decelerate. The double cardan does this inside itself.
Great video. I appreciate that you did your rebuild using the simplest tools possible. Only question: the part that the centering yoke mates with, is that part of the H-yoke, or is that a replaceable part as well?
thanks for the video, i spent a lot of time trying to find out how to get this out. One question tho, can you replace the part that the centering yoke mates with? Mine appears to have sheared off the drive shaft
Do yourself a favor, next time buy or rent a ball joint press. Clamp it in a vice and use it to press the joints out and back in. Makes it super easy and no pounding with a hammer.
MrMrsregor correct you can, however most yokes, especially around the rust belt get pretty hammered and aren't so useable. Also, the one we are using is a perfect crossover from ACDelco and only costs $35. Which is on average only $15 more than the ball+spring rebuild kit for the yokes If it's apart, might as well just throw in a new one if possible. But you're correct, you can rebuild them yes
KSuspension great man, thanks. just ordered all 3 u joints and your centering yoke/bearing with your part numbers. going to try this next weekend. I have a harbor freight press, hopefully that makes this job quicker
Im sorry, but that tapping could have still thru them bearings out. You could have held the joint under part way in while tapping and not risk losing anything
Is there a seal that that the socket yoke sets in. I ordered a sockit yoke. There is some kind of seal on shaff after mine fell out. I didn't know it that is part of assembly of something I have to order separate. Thanks
yes, some shafts have a rubber seal. I don't remember the technical name for it, and they're fun to try and find at times. I've only ever found them online to order in.
Please use a socket that fits perfect on the edges of the bearing cap. Otherwise you might damage the caps tapping it in with a hammer or flat shizzle having premature wear. Also never heard of greasable UJ’s being less strong. I like to grease my UJ’s often after offroading, it only prolongs UJ’s life. But everyone his own thoughts on it I guess.
Grease ports weaken the body casting. none greasble are the better option. The are WAYYY more resistant to water or any junk getting into them. Thats why they are more expensive.
shaine pearson Can you back that up with some proof? Appreciated! (FYI, in all my heavy offroad endeavors not once I broke a greaseable UJ, check my channel for the abuse lol)
raffi can you tell me if those part numbers will be the same here in australia ?? i have trouble finding front axle unis here under part number 5 - 760x no shop stocks them here and we have to buy from rock auto . so just wondering if your part numbers are also genuine spicer ones that wont be listed here . cheers bud
xjjeeper I honestly couldn't tell you bud. As far as I know, the 760x is the Spicer number and the parts store has the same numbers in their system for this style ujoint I wish I could be of more help
xjjeeper I'll do some digging as well to see if I can't find anything And if rock autos shipping is more than $30, let me know. Ujoints are light, I can ship some to you if needed
Hi Raffi. I have a 2004 Wrangler Rubicon that making the clicking noise from the front drive shaft, and also vibrates like hell. I was told I may need to replace the whole shaft, or do I just need to do what you did here? Thanks.
hi mate l was wondering if you could help me l have a 2005 Jeep Cherokee and when l pull away and turn l am getting a vibration and a squeaking on the front end . and when reversing the back end is jerking around was told its right coz of the diff in it ? l am only new to jeeps please can you help thanks nick
It shouldn't be jerking or vibrating I'd check the rear end for any damage, unless you have a locker And the front end sounds like possibly worn hubs or bushings Jack it up and start moving stuff, see what's loose
+Raffi Kassardjian thank you for your help . can you tell me if you know the long track rod end with a curve in the bar . if the bushes on that are gone would that cause the problem thx nick
+nigel green that's your track bar, if the bushings are gone, then that means you're experiencing a minor "death wobble" factor while moving or hitting a bump. Change that and make sure everything is tight
Usually by the time your driveshaft looks like that, the slip yoke splines are worn anyway and by the time you buy all the bearings, almost better off just buying a new shaft.
My slip yoke is making noise and looks as if its broke ... I wish I knew if I could use newer style shaft that does not have slip yoke instead its a enclosed bearing
monc1ne it's mainly sold for jeeps, however the concept could be used for almost any vehicle with a similar setup I would contact IRO for more information on cross references
ok, thanks. im wondering because on my 02 tacoma it started to make a squeak when im reversing and will start to replace u joints to see if it will fix the problem. trying to find videos to help. thanks!
monc1ne for some reason I thought this was our hack n tap video The cardigan rebuild is for any shaft that uses ujoints Doesn't matter the vehicle My apologies
Double Cardine Driveshafts are such fucking Junk. I had one on my bronco went bad it was a piece of shit then the one on my S-10 went to shit I hate those god damn things.
Terrible job... You never bang ujoint caps on with a hammer. It's likely the reason you are experiencing premature failure. Notice when you bang the second front cap on that the ujoint is cocked, you then proceed to pound on the cap with a 3lb sledge hammer. I am sure that wasn't good for the needle bearings. You always push caps on with either vise jaws or with a large C-Clamp.
@@Morpheux1 Always use a vise or a press, beating on them will put the cap at an angle & will scar the needle bearings as they are pushed into the male section of the joint. Please point this out to your viewers. If you are going to TRY to teach at least be responsible. This way of BEATING them in with a hammer can & will shorten the life of the joint. I think helping is a good thing, BUT at least do a little homework & investigation into the subject matter before you warp the minds of others. I am a 40 year builder of autos & trucks, motorcycles. good luck on your project, sincerely.
actually you are fine using a hammer as long as you put something between the cap and the hammer to equal out the force. old socket piece of pipe board etc...
Your wrong, its fine to use a hammer, and it wont hurt the needle bearings at all, they take side load, meaning they are around the stub not on the end. Its also better to use sharp fast force like from a hammer, presses can and will bend the yoke if you get a stubborn one. Whereas a hammer (like an impact gun) moving the cap in fast sharp increments will not hurt the yoke. Sometimes explosive force is less damaging then steady force. It is possible to mess up the needles if you allow them to fall out of circumference around the stub but youl know if that happens right away.
