DOUBLE the speed of ANY WINCH & run your ENTIRE TOURING SETUP at 24V! 

Yeah for sure, should have done it sooner really haha thanks mate 🫡

Thanks heaps mate glad you enjoyed 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Cheers dude, glad you enjoyed!! 👊🏻👊🏻

Thanks mate, glad you enjoyed 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Highly recommend! As someone said in the comments it just makes the winch sound as it should, really wakes them up! Thanks for watching 🙏🏻🙏🏻

@@timmyhasheart 👍

@@timmyhasheart thanks for the reply mate 👍

Cheers mate 🫡🫡

Hahaha nice 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Cheers mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻 yeah 10000% it feels like it just wakes them up! Yeah I meant to talk about the 3rd option, going to a booster box/supercharger box but once I started talking about the DCDC I forgot 🤦🏻‍♂️

Cheers mate!! Yeah they’re bloody mint!

Cheers mate! Yeah come up awesome.. it’s hard to tuck away wiring nicely when you run a heap of gear haha

Yeah it should be good!! Will be the ultimate test when I go on a trip whether the batteries are enough and the charging amps are set to enough, might need to go to a bigger alternator is the only thing.

@@timmyhasheart true, ya may need a bigger alternator. Knowing your driving style you'll put her to the test mate.

Cheers mate glad you enjoyed!!

Thanks mate, appreciate it 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Appreciate the kind words mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻 slowly growing we will get there 👊🏻

Thanks mate! Will keep it up as long as I have stuff worth sharing! Glad you enjoyed

Haha thanks mate 🙏🏻

Yeah nice heaps keen 🙏🏻🙏🏻 the old warn will do until it gets here haha

Thanks heaps mate, appreciate the kind words 🤙🏻🤙🏻 building them is just about addressing a few things that warn didn’t do that great, such as the free spool, normal recreational use I wouldn’t worry about replacing anything too crazy, but winching a lot in Tassie mud, with heavy rigs and 24v it’s definitely a good idea to take care of a few things wrong with them. I’ll try and be clear when I make the video what really ought to be taken care of as necessity and what’s probably more so only if you’re going to 24v. Thanks again mate 🤙🏻🤙🏻

@@timmyhasheart thanks for the taking the time and for sharing such great info!

Yeah mate and tbh would be even better in a 79 cause your alternators are much higher amp 👌🏻

@@timmyhasheart have you had a chance to give it a proper workout on 24V yet? What the run time like under load before you start draining batteries? Assuming you spec'd the Red Winch with air freespool, you'll love it. Absolute game changer for the high mounts!

@@timmyhasheart & a nose ring,,my god,,die your hair purple..

@@VantageAus I haven’t used it in the bush yet but from the math, let’s say it draws 300a on an average winch, that means I have 20mins of winching until totally dead if the car is off providing no charge. But even in the $1000 track on the longest hill, I think at 24v it would only take 1 min to winch up it. Which would use 5a of my 100ah. With my charger running at 20a, it would take 15mins of driving to replenish that 5ah. Hope that all makes sense. 👍🏻

@@harrywalker968 really? Upset about a nose ring hahaha

Cheers mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻 Tassie represent

Awesome mate thank you 🙏🏻

Yeah bloody oath! Yeah he’s a legend mate, always happy to help and provide help 👌🏻👌🏻 cheers mate

@@timmyhasheartim building turbo TB because of Dan just started watching tylers new uploads your fixing the diff lol

Awesome dude glad I could help, the batteries are a Full River HC110

@@timmyhasheart thank you mate your a legend love the work

Yeah mate absolutely, any DC motor can be overvolted and as long as it’s under load it’ll be fine. 🤙🏻

Awesome mate thank you glad to hear it!! Yeah dude not sure if links work in comments but it’s here: www.ebay.com.au/itm/321751825966?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0&ssspo=ZcsTdIUQRR-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=8oLbWhTNQZq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yeah nice, my fridge can run on either so that was easy, and yeah just need to organise some solar. 🫡

I had some dramas early on with the alternator struggling to keep up, after i did a hard winch the enedrive sorta like paniked and was pulling max amps out if 12v and it was dropping to 12.3 volts with spottires n heater on Once i read the manual and worked out how to drop the amps down was fine, solar is great too just hard wire a panel in the enedrive defects curent turns on and charges

Yeah I have mine set to 20a (40a @12) and if the alternator struggles I’ll go from my 100a to a 130a alternator. And yeah I intend to add solar just don’t want to have a roof rack so deciding how to do it.

I understand the confusion but no that’s exactly how that’s meant to be.. a 24v motor running at 24v will behave at exactly the same speed as a 12v motor running at 12v. It’ll just be drawing half the amps but the same watts. You gain the extra speed and watts by over volting a 12v motor to 24v. It can run forever like that provided you don’t let it overspin by letting it run at full boar with no load. As long as it’s used under load it’ll run just fine indefinitely at twice or three times the speed. A 12v dominator can also run at 24v and it’ll be twice or even three times as fast. As long as you are pulsing it while not under load. Any winch, actually any DC motor can do this and be fine. Thanks mate.

@@timmyhasheart Wow, you know a lot for a young guy, I am an older guy :0) I went & spent $1500 (trying to keep it budget on this vehicle - have another build that is more exotic & harder on the wallet!) on some bits & pieces, got all the heavy cable & an over priced non hydraulic hand crimper, your hydraulic one looks better. Watching you operate it looks like it would be good if it could be mounted or clamped to a base or bench. Mine is even more clumsy. I got an Intervolt DC to DC (only 12v) but on seeing your video I had a doh moment & wish I had of seen it 1st before I bought the intervolt. Been reading over both manuals thinking maybe I could just sell the Intervolt & get what you got, the extra cost is not really that much when you consider what you are getting. Thank you so much for your detail response. Someone had told me or I read it somewhere that I could run the Dominator on 24v but it was months ago & I did not take notes & was scratching my head all day (even burnt my googler out!) trying to figure out where or who told me that.

I know Graham Cahill (4wd 24/7) runs his dominator in the shorty at 24v which you’ll find in his rig run throughs on RU-vid, he’s talked about it quite a bit because the import GQ patrols already come at 24v. So maybe look up those videos and have a watch! No worries at all mate glad to help 🙏🏻🙏🏻

@@timmyhasheart Thank you, I will check it out.

Awesome mate thank you 🙏🏻 appreciate it

Hope that isolator is a water proof one. I have to say I have been very interested in the red winches did you opt for the XL drum? Just not sure I can justify the cost. But love the design of them, hopefully many years of trouble free winching

Yeah it’s a marine one so even the studs etc are marine grade stainless but I guess we will find out, but I’m not above whacking a bolt through the lugs with some eleccy tape to get me out of a bind either ;) Yeah just the standard drum mate, that’s what extensions are for ;)

Nice mate!! Glad you like them I’m keen to try them out properly I’ve just setup some solar to help top em up to to give some of the alternator back to my car battery so I’ll see how it all goes when I go away! Thanks for the info 🤙🏻🤙🏻

@timmyhasheart you have a lot more mud down there for winching, I can't really justify it yet and for weekend warrior class only allowed 12v single motor, no air spool. The runva can take airspool, but I haven't bothered. The overrun is the only issue, which the red winches don't have. The full river with steel case was something like $700 for one, so they're not cheap!! Running big cables seemed to be the best move. Doesn't seem to matter as much for normal winches I guess because of gearing they aren't pulling as many amps

Sounds like a god damn plan to me!! Already been chatting with them about a wheel 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Trying mate 🥵😂

It’s 100a atm next time I replace it I’ll get 130 which is the biggest you can get for a TD without going something custom

Yeah I dunno it’s no different to being in an engine bay tbh, my engine bay turns brown whenever I wheel mud so I can’t see it being too much of an issue, most trucks have batteries mounted externally to the cab but if it’s an issue I’ll address it 👍🏻👍🏻

@@timmyhasheart yea true I’ll chuck mine down there to and give it a go haha

Cheers mate 👍🏻👍🏻 Ahh just a inside joke mate, I used to drive a Navara a few years back.

Yeah rogie thanks mate, every live cable in the whole system is double insulated, sometimes triple insulated and heat shrinked, and every live has fuse protection so I’d be pretty unlucky but I’ll have a couple of fire extinguishers 😅

think about a lock nut on top of the wingnuts or replace with nyloc.i had a hilux with similar underbody battery tray.the holddown clamp came off and shorted across the battery terminals.i was driving and I could here what sounded like an arc welder under the car and my dashboard lights were flickering.i was lucky to pull over and throw mud at the now flames to put it out.isolators and fuses wouldn't have helped in this case.its pretty unlucky though and ide guess rare

Yeah in series so it’s running the Engel at 24v. Engel fridges have a switch in them they can be run off 12 or 24, like most DC accessories, doesn’t harm anything 🤙🏻🤙🏻

I just looked em up didn’t even know they existed dude but yeah 800a at 22sec it says they are, they’d be perfect 👍🏻 I did one of these cause I just got all the shit together from outback equipment. 👍🏻

Ahh in the Warn 8274 video I talk a bit about it but essentially the 2 achilles heels of a Warn High Mount are 1. The free spool is unreliable and can pop out when you don’t want it to and 2. The brakshaft is unreliable and can pop out or break or pop the circlip off under tension so they’re the 2 main things I change when I’m building one. 🤙🏻🤙🏻 And yeah all my recent videos I’ve been using the 24v system and it rules 👌🏻👌🏻

Umm, I actually took out my twin cranks when I went to this setup, I believe with that setup you could maybe use a supercharger box? Look up Red Winch Super Charger.. Links up current batteries you have to run 24v out to the winch. I meant to talk about that as an option but forgot.

@@timmyhasheart ok will do thnx

Yeah I have it tuned pretty conservatively mate, I used to run a fair bit of power but after 2 snapped cranks I dialled it back a fair bit. But yeah I’ll do a run down of the cars life and include the engine work 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Na I haven’t actually, an interesting idea though for sure! I wonder if anyone else has done it? Seems like a more efficient way to do it really

@@timmyhasheart yeh less amps required for the charging side of things and an alternator would keep up with winching too. Probably more expensive though

Yeah it’s not a bad idea at all, really I’d love the whole car at 24v, the wiring for it is sooo much more efficient and you can avoid relays and big wires etc because everything is much lower amp, most products these days including my fridge runs on anything 9-30v anyway

@@timmyhasheart td starter on 24v would definitely spin the old girl up in the morning

Definitely the way to go , Single 24v 140amp alternator and then a Daygreen voltage reducer going 24v down to 13.8volt at 120amp

Awesome man thank you 🙏🏻

Thanks mate welcome 🙏🏻

@@timmyhasheart Cheers mate

Na I have thought about it, it’s handy cause you’re starting with the most volts for the most volt intensive tasks and then trickling down the voltage for the less volt intensive tasks so it makes a lot of sense and something I’ve definitely thought about and has been done before just without a DCDC, you can step down or draw from 1 of the batteries for your 12 stuff. But this is just the way it’s done by most, if it’s a dedicated wheeler/racer I’d go 24 alt but tourer/weekend wheeler I’d do the 24 Enerdrive. Another good thing about the Enerdrive is it behaves like a charged battery anyway because as long as the Enerdrive is running it’ll float the battery at 27.2 or if it’s in bulk charging it’ll hold it at 29.4 even with load, so it’s not like you’re winching off just an unplugged battery, you’re winching and the Enerdrive floats voltage to compensate load. Appreciate the question & comment mate, I do know of 1 car right now that runs like you’ve suggested and that’s 17_Dmax on Insta, a mate of mine he runs his car solely on 24 alternator and steps down V for the car. 👍🏻

@@timmyhasheart OK sick. Yeah it does seem to make a good amount of sense to keep vehicle simply at 12v. The only concern was that if you’re pulling a few hundred amps from those batteries from long or multiple pulls then soon rather then later I imagine you would basically be running the winch soley off the dc to dc, effectively. But you already addressed that and I admit, of course, I dont know what your car is built for or how you use it but it got my electrical brain thinking haha. But like I said I’ve never been around winch trucks so just really curious. Really appreciate good content and your response to my question. Genuinely learning something and having a good community is what YT and social media should help about. Cheers

Oh definitely mate, I’d never use the winch long enough to ever flatten the batteries, so I have 2 110ah batteries banked to 24v, and with my twin motors I could draw around 500a and so I could winch at that for like 12min, but with 24v you’re never ever ever winching for 12min, because the winch is so fkn quick you’d be lucky to winch for 30seconds and then because my charger is set to 60a 12v (30a 24v) you charge that back pretty quick. The most winching I’ve ever done is my 13hr trip through $1000 track, and we had Milwaukee batteries, headlights, lightbar, vehicle & music running from the 12v car and charging phones, drone, running air compressor for the lockers and winch, running my fridge and winch all from the 24v and my front battery voltage with alt was never below 13.8 and my rear batteries never really floated below 27.2 and below 22v under winch, but mostly charged at 29.4. And we were hanging from the winch all damned day, or moving trees with it, that’s actually my most recent $1000 video with “13hrs” in the thumbnail, But yeah again dude thanks for picking my brain about it, appreciate the interest and would definitely be interested in a 24v to 12v setup 👍🏻👍🏻

Haha yeah right, thanks for the heads up! I have used it here and there over the years but with this job In the end, if you see the snap shot of the final product you’ll see I didn’t actually loom it all up in it, I just had each cable in its own conduit and then screwed it to the frame with P clips 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Yeah good so far mate, only really used it hard in Victoria, not many places to winch here in Tassie in the summer!

@@timmyhasheart I am going for a reds winch 24 volt as well just better over all I will be doing it in 2008 Triton thou with supa slim lithium batteries

If I could give you some advice I would recommend the hornet over the cobra 👍🏻

@@timmyhasheartI have to go the explorer 2 24v need the lowline 1

My batteries total 100ah and 1100cca at 24v. The winch draws let’s say 300a which means I get 20mins of winching until batteries are flat. The place where I winch the most is wombat flats ($1000) and at 24v, because you’re winching MUCH faster , a bog hole might take 20-30 seconds to winch? A bad hill might take 1 minute to winch? So with the above math at 20mins of total winch time let’s say I do a 1 minute winch for a bad hill which means it uses 1/20th of my 100ah which is 5ah leaving my batteries at 95% after the worst winch I’ll do on the $1000 track, and with the DCDC set to 20a 24v (40a 12v) it will take 15mins of driving to charge that lost battery power. (You can set the DCDC at the click of a button between 5, 10, 20 or 30.) All that is also ignoring that solar, and alternator charge is also adding to it at all times. And the DCDC is also load sensing and compensates when it detects high loads by adding additional charge. As for the alternator, it’s 130a. So even with the DCDC set to max, which is 30a at 24v, 60a at 12v, that leaves 70a still charging the cars battery which is actually the original factory amperage of a TD42 alternator. Keeping in mind that the car’s 12v battery now has 0 amp intensive tasks.. only has to crank the engine and run the lights and radio. All winching and compressor for tyres is through the 24v system. I’d never get the 24v batteries dead as above, but if I did, the only crap thing is that at 29.2v charging at 30a it would take just under 3hrs to charge the batteries back to full from dead flat. Hope that makes sense mate 👊🏻 I’m not the first to run this system btw, it’s tried and tested but also if I have issues I’m not the type to hide it either, I’ll take you guys on the journey to optimising it. 👍🏻

Na I have it set to 20a at 24v at the moment which is 40a at 12v. If my front start battery doesn’t suffer too much I’ll set it to 30a at 24v, which will be 60a at 12v. 👍🏻👍🏻 Just nutting it all out atm, It’ll take time to figure out whether I need a bigger alternator but working so far 👌🏻

It’s up pretty high, if I have mud inside the cab level with the top of the rear doors I reckon I’ll have much greater issues than no 24v 😂

There are much better options out there than the enerdrive for a 12 to 24 volt charger that handle the mud and water that a 4wd can encounter

@@rohanarchibald5853 Personally I disagree, these are an in-cabin system, and it’s in the cabin, up high… and these systems are tried and tested by several people I know in the winch racing scene. And out of the 24v alternator option, the Supercharger/Booster box option and the DCDC option, this was the best suited to a tourer, as I can run solar to it also and it ends up being like any DCDC dual battery system. They also have features whereby they won’t go into limp mode like others when experiencing big discharge like winching for example. and the enerdrive is the go to for anyone I know in the racing scene that goes down this route. 👍🏻 I’m all for learning but at this stage you haven’t suggested an alternative. Just that I choose wrong supposedly.

Gsl do a water proof version and redarc also do one with solar input I've been racing for years and seen what mud and moisture can do to anything electronic. I've been running a12 to 24 dcdc for a few years in my gu and in my opinion gsl is much better built. I've done a full write up on it on the highmount page

Hadn’t ever heard of the GSL, but looks like it only outputs 20a no adjustment, Enerdrive can do 5-30, I did look into the redarc one though but was told it would limp out if you winched too long because of some kind of protection. where as the first name on everyone’s lips that I trust was Enerdrive straight up. That being said though I have no loyalty to the brand - If I ever had any reason to turf the enerdrive I’ll be sure to include that in a video too and why I changed it. I’m all about transparency and learning. But yeah typically speaking I’ll go with testimony from those I know over comments on the net type thing. Appreciate the knowledge mate

Can’t have drive to the wheels and drive a pto at the same time

Wouldn’t even bother replying to him he does this all the time. May as well be muttering to himself

@@timmyhasheart yeah awesome

@@harrygibbs-hughes4820 You can do, especially if you have reduction gearing fitted to better match wheel speeds. Does depend on what you are driving on though.

​@trickster8635 I had a PTO winch in my old cruiser it sucked was shithouse sat lower couldn't have the bar I wanted. Electric winchs especially 24v ones are heaps better

Hahaha unfortunately it’s for me mate, I must have got a dud Nissan cause mines always getting stuck! 💀

Any 12v motor can be over volted to 24 volt!! 👍🏻👍🏻 just a matter of whether you want to do it or not 🙏🏻