I'm NEVER going back.. GU gets LITHIUM at 24v!? 

Hahaha mint mate that’s awesome 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Hahaha awesome mate, cheers for tuning in 🔥🔥

Yeah boi!! Next fortnight!! 👊🏻👊🏻

Awesome mate thank you for tuning in, appreciate it 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻 heaps more to come!

Cheers my boy!!! Very keen to use it 🤙🏻🤙🏻

That’s mint dude thanks so much for watching 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Cheers boss man!!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

Awesome mate cheers!! High Mount rebuild incoming next fortnight! 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

Thanks so much mate, yeah loving the shed, so good having a decent bit of space 🥵

Thanks so much mate, appreciate you watching 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Yeah boy!! Warn video coming out next fortnight!! 🔥🔥

Thanks heaps mate!!! Absolute legend 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻

Hahaha always do, OCD kills me 🤣

Haha always happy to share mate!! Awesome 🔥🔥

🔥🔥🔥🔥

Hahaha sick mate glad I could be of assistance 👌🏻👌🏻

Hahaha facts mate, I’ll never go back.. even if I wasn’t winching from this system I’d be running purely touring stuff at 24 🔥

Oh 100% bro , Im bout to do the 24v for my high mount and full rebuild on it so I can run free spool bigger drums etc etc all the goodies 😈 When you come up to Sydney next we will need to take you to wheeny creek you’ll love it

Thanks heaps mate appreciate it 🔥🔥

🔥🙏🏻🔥

That’s the idea mate thanks for watching! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Yeah not wrong I probably should have haha, it’s all G it’s super temporary until I get a little distro block for in cab 24v items. Cheers mate 🔥🔥🔥🔥

Haha the ultimate Sunday, thanks heaps mate appreciate it 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Always mate, cheers! 👊🏻👊🏻

Just a quick question when is the tool kits drawn ?

Thanks mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻

I kinda go by the rule that everything must be double insulated which is something I picked up off my sparky mates. And so the 2 cables going under the cab are twin core which is double insulated. Then anything that is single insulated gets split conduit, although it seems to also cause more harm than good, it stores SO much dried up mud and sand in a car that actually wheels. Like eyeballs full. 🤣 But yeah dude cheers, everything in my car gets twin insulated. Which is pretty much spec. 👍🏻

Cheers mate 🔥🔥🔥

My OCD haha, can’t help it 🤣

Haha do it mate, never too late to get an old GU beater and have a play,

Cheers mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Yeah I love the Enerdrive! 🔥🔥🔥

Thanks heaps mate for the advice! Honestly I’ve seen the self reset heat ones break when you don’t want em too, but these more expensive manual ones by narva I’ve used for years and never ever had an issue, they have an operating range of about -30°c to 100°c if it’s seeing those temps I got bigger issues haha, will see how it goes, I’ll see if it breaks straight away cause my twin volt gauge will all of a sudden say 14.2 on one side and 12.8 on the other side. 👍🏻👍🏻

Cheers dude thanks for always tuning in and leaving a comment 👌🏻🙏🏻

Thanks heaps mate!! Nothing on a whole car scale, the megalifes have one but yeah, I’m simple as mate. DCDC & 24v and we’re away

Yeah rogie good bit of advice cheers!!

Both ground to the chassis mate and stay entirely separate, would be more sketchy to keep it isolated, might get a zap here and there if you don’t ground it. 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Thanks heaps brother 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻

That is a really good idea, I actually have some rubber that I use for my mud flaps with cord through them, I’ll cut up a strip and chuck under them thanks mate that’s sick 🔥

I’m keen to see the GU out finished as well haha. Just a tray and a little canopy to go and we’re away!

Iam keen to see the tray you build for it I need to build a new one for mine but don't have the tools and patience to build it from myself

Hahaha cheers mate!! 🙏🏻🙏🏻 Yeah the regular 12v redarc chargers are very different, I’ve used the regular 24v DCDC’s and they have lithium/solar provisions as is by linking certain wires together and also using the yellow wire for solar, but this one is super different. LFP2420 is the product ID, as you’ll see they’re super different. Appreciate you mate thanks for watching!

Yeah I prefer the enerdrive too, that’s what I have in my GQ and is mounted in the cab also 🙏🏻🙏🏻 took a bit of screwing around to get the redarc up to the enerdrives standard but we’re there 🫡

why did you want the dc to dc charger next next to the lithium and not in the engine bay. i had no choice with mine as its not heat rated

@@harrisongauci2487 I run a shunt and fuse block and solar and master switch and inverter and I wanted them all near each other for shorter distances to run high amp cables. I also have a wagon so the batteries are out of the weather anyway. Each to their own in DC systems hey.

I did. I enjoy your videos. Nearly commented on the sunshine in Tas 😀. I'm sure Redarc has a good name for good reason and I seriously looked at them but I also already had Enerdrive in my van before I did my vehicle. A pity they don't do DCDC chargers for all chemistries.

@@stuartpx1 makes sense to put everything together. When I did mine the instructions said to put the dc to dc as closer to the battery as possible. Just curious to why it said that

Yes mate absolutely!! It’s all filmed and ready to go, went into every part I use and how much they cost!

Haha so good mate!! I tried to steal Richards when you guys were down but he wouldn’t give it to me haha

I run all my accessories like fridge and that at 24v, much more efficient way of providing power because the wiring is all half the current draw. I have heard of people nipping 12v from a 24v bank but they never balance well and you always root one battery 👍🏻👍🏻

@@timmyhasheart yeah i think is common in the marine world but are most of the rooted batteries Lead/agm? I only mentioned it incase you want to use the 24v bank for more then winching and wasn’t aware of those mentioned options. Running two matching under hood with a vsr between them is pretty ultimate for reliability anyways.

Yeah I love my enerdrive stuff! Great in the right application! 🔥🔥

@timmyhasheart yeah, absolutely, it's also good seeing the screens on the enerdrive and you can have the epro guage or even two of them like I do...one front and one at the back. I'm not sure about the redarc, but the enerdrive dc2dc accept the larger 40v house panels to.... The only thing I wish the enerdrive dc2dc could do is be able to charge the crank battery as well as house/aux, just using the alternator as a trigger essentially to wake the dc2dc up. Good system all in all, I run a 80A ign switched high amp relay after my breaker from the crank battery. Did this, so each bank is isolated when not in use and also if I charge my crank battery or connect my solar panel to it it won't wake the dc2dc up and charge the house battery (200ah lithium ) Lastly, the enerdrive btec batteries are great woth the built in Bluetooth for.the app Very handy!

Because then where would I put the vehicles 12v batteries? 🤷🏻‍♂️ Seems more appropriate to run the batteries back where the canopy and everything is going to be. 👍🏻👍🏻

Just for weight factor, run a smaller 12v for canopy duties. Still can run all factory 12v stuff off front battery. Just an idea I had for my last patrol to keep weight up and shorter cables

@@ellietthillery8204yeah rogie but I’m not running 12v I’m running 24v. And all the factory wiring and everything goes to the engine bay as is, and to be honest it’s good having weight up front. Patrols heavily bias flexing the rear and so weight up front gets the wheels down on the ground, especially on the steep stuff 👍🏻👍🏻

Yeah so the 12v redarc chargers have direct solar input, but if you look up this one (the LFP2420) it has no solar input, it requires a 2 way ignition switched relay in order to switch between solar and vehicle charge. Additionally, yes DCDC have an ignition override sense to turn ON, but they still don’t turn off until they reach a low voltage disconnect threshold. My BCDC1225 did it, my Enerdrive DCDC also does it. And so regardless of solar input I run my own relay smack in the power supply that’s ignition based that cuts power immediately with ignition off. I wouldn’t share info etc. without having done research or had experience in it, my DCDC always used to drain my front cranks to 12.7. Since using a relay my front cranks will stay at 13.1 overnight.

Yeah works if you’re not already attached to the car haha 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Yeah I definitely like the enerdrive better, haven’t got to use the redarc properly yet but the differences I listed in the video definitely make the enerdrive better so far 🫡

Somewhat, but tbh the volt gauge is mainly for winching, you don’t want to let the volts drop past say 22-23 while winching because you’re loading the motors up too much. I’ll have a SOC in the canopy 👍🏻

I believe Victron is set to 15a but not sure if they do a higher one. I understand DC pretty much like a second language haha, but Enerdrive is definitely better than this redarc one. Load compensates really quickly to keep float at 27.2, better connections, more customisable. But yeah wanted to try this dog

@@timmyhasheart I have the Victron 30A DCDC and I've seen as high as 35A charging. There's a second model now that does 50A. Something I've noticed with Victron (have had Redard & Projecta before) is that they appear to under specify some of their products. No experience with Enerdrive so I'll take your word for it. What put me off Enerdrive is the active cooling which I'm not a fan of. Cheers

@@cyclemoto8744 I reckon you’re probably talking about 12v yeah? I thought the 24v ones only had 15a (which is obviously 30a 12v draw) but could be wrong.

@@timmyhasheart My bad. Forgot the topic was 24v. I'm not familiar with the 24v product line of DCDC chargers of any of the brands so I'll shut up. As usual you've done your research and you know your sh1t.

@@cyclemoto8744 I appreciate the input mate there’s a reason I read and reply to my comments we’re all here to learn and build cool shit at the end of the day 👍🏻 can’t do that in a vacuum, input is always welcome

It’s a kincrome under bonnet lamp mate the thing is unreal, works in the cab clipped to the roof too while I’m doing stuff in there

Maybe I didn’t explain very well because this has been a common theme in the comments haha. I’ve been using redarc products a long time, my last DCDC had a profile for any battery including lithium that’s right, it also had a provision for solar also that’s right, but this is a 24v charger, not a 12v one. So it’s not a matter of it being “out dated” it’s just that their 24v chargers don’t include a solar input, only the 12v ones do.. and yes, also aware it charges lithium because those 2 megalife batteries are lithium, in the 24v range you have to buy the dedicated lithium charger, and then if you run 24v AGMs you need to run a different charger. Lastly I don’t agree at all with the location of the DCDC. Unless you’re talking about a cable running 20m the amount of voltage drop is going to be negligible. Just have to size cables appropriately.. and in a matter of 12 to 24v charging I’d rather have 20a going back there than 40a. As long as it’s fused it’s fine. I’d much rather the DCDC be in the engine bay than under a tray of a 4wd that’s gonna see a lot of abuse haha. Glad you liked the video dude! Maybe I need to explain a bit better as I go 🤙🏻🤙🏻

Nice dude! Highly recommend 24v to anyone on earth 😂 ahh it’s a Joel’s garage, and single phase 🙏🏻🙏🏻

Yeah mate I had bulk issues with the Q going flat and found out the DCDC was staying switched to the car for hours after the car was off, especially if your battery at the front is super healthy and high V

Even bigger problem if you run a lithium starter battery which remains above 12.8v until it’s flat

That’s actually me using simple terminology for the video. Unless the batteries are perfectly the same age and health or you have a balancer you should definitely have them split when not being charged or the one with the higher voltage will drain the other constantly to equalise them. Just FYI. (Ask me how I know 😂) Additionally, connecting to the alternator post is the same thing as connecting to the battery positive post provided alternator wire is sufficient with low or no resistance, except it has a capacitor so to speak, (the battery) so much more stable voltage. Kind of like drinking from a tank as opposed to trying to drink the rain.

Yeah boi 🤙🏻🤙🏻 all over it, it’s getting changed to a little junction in cab for 24v charging sockets so will absolutely be fused 🙏🏻

I’d certainly be keeping mine at 24v if I was to get one. 😅😅

Thanks heaps mate 🙏🏻🙏🏻 “Never going back” was in relation to going from 12 to 24 in the GQ, loving it, so then going from 12 to 24 in the GU cause I couldn’t live without it now. But if you’re new to the channel that mightn’t be known. But I’ve run a lot of lithium and have never personally had a problem, I was actually a bit apprehensive to winch super high current & wattage from lithium on 24v but when my mate ran them through his winch truck without issues I was sold.

Thanks so much mate!!! The GU will never go into that place hahaha, that’s what the GQ is for. GU has a 0 mud policy 🤣

Yeah mate absolutely, on both accounts, I think I did mention it in the video but these lithiums, I chose because they have a CCA of 1600 which is higher than most AGM/LA. They’re actually becoming “the battery” to use in the winching scene. Huge discharge rate. And when I switched to 24v winching last year, I was concerned that the DCDC wouldn’t keep up to winching AH usage, but all I can say is I spent 13hrs on the $1000 last year and we had that winch going all day moving trees and me constantly and the thing kept reaching float status (meaning it had charged the battery back to full and stepped from 29.4 down to 27.2 which is boost down to float while set to 20a 24v (40a 12v) That’s also while using lightbars, music with a sub, charging Milwaukee batteries, running my air compressor for lockers and free spool, as well as running the car itself. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Na not yet never had an issue mate, even when I had a lithium sitting there. Maybe chuck some heat shield in!

🔥🙏🏻🙏🏻🔥

I like it, and I’ll just say if I didn’t run a 24v winch then I probably would never have stumbled on the other benefits of 24v and then never went 24v but the main purpose for going 24v first and foremost is the winch side of things. 👌🏻👌🏻

Hahaha love it, thank you dude 🔥🔥

No need for either mate, the cars native system is all still 12v 👍🏻

@@timmyhasheart nah just thought ya might go all the way with the 24v lol

Thanks so much mate appreciate you 👊🏻👊🏻👊🏻

@@timmyhasheart Np, olboiee keep that sweet content comin

Yeah boy!! That’s the ticket 👌🏻👌🏻

@@timmyhasheart well looks like i have a new setup goal. thats awesome

They’re aurora customs mate 👍🏻

I thought I was pretty clear but a lot of comments seem to be confused this isn’t a 12v system, it’s a 24v system, so it’s charging at 20a 24v which is actually 40a 12v 🤙🏻

@@timmyhasheart yeah got that bit but thought you said it's a 12/20 redarc unit. Had a few sherbets so maybe missed it lol

Negate that. Just saw the unit at the end. 🤪👍🏽

@vincem5 na so it takes in 40a at 12v and charges my rear 24v 100ah bank at 20a 24v. Which is the equivalent of charging 200ah at 40amp in 12v terms. (This is the biggest (only) 24v charger redarc do for lithium). The Enerdrive one in my GQ does have the capacity to charge at 30a 24v (60a 12v) but there isn’t an alternator on the market that could even keep up to that so that stays permanently set to 20a which is the same as this unit. 👍🏻

@timmyhasheart actually I have a bcdc1250D. It has solar input.

Yeah it’s still rolling around in my head, haven’t really had the time haha. I need to get this GU kicking.

Haha it’s all in the video mate 👍🏻👍🏻

@@timmyhasheart just wondering because I got the Redarc bcdc (lithium) charging my AGM from starter battery or solar without any relays.

Yeah correct, I had a 12v redarc DCDC without a relay too but this one requires you run a relay to switch to solar as I mentioned in the video. But to be honest I run a relay with any DCDC anyway even in my GQ with the enrdrive so that when the key turns off, it turns off immediately. Otherwise they stay on until the front crank drains to 12.8. I did mention all of this in the video. 👍🏻

@@timmyhasheart gotcha, you are going 12v (car) to 24v (camping), mine is the other way around my truck is 24v and the camp setup is 12v

To be entirely honest it would be pretty pointless for me, maybe if I was running a big inverter or welder or you know something like that I could do it quite efficiently with nice small manageable cables but I don’t run that kind of stuff, it’s predominantly to overvolt a 12v winch, and let’s say I was to overvolt a 24v motor to 48, I would actually see the same performance gain as a 12 on 24 the math suggests? 🤷🏻‍♂️ but yeah agreed would be super efficient for those running big draw items, I just have a fridge and a winch 🤙🏻

@@timmyhasheart i found the main advantage was for charging the actual system i had my 10kwh as 2×100 amph 48v server rack batteries and was able to charge from flat to absorption in under 3 hours with the multiplus 5000/48/70 with my previous 12v setup which was 400 amph at 12v with my dinky little victron ip22 charger it would take 13 hours and obviously i would only have half the capacity i have now

Hahaha cheers dude 🔥

Was just the last couple of clips but yeah had to send the big dog away 🫠🫠

Yeah dude you’re not wrong, It’s custom I made it just out of aluminised steel pieces from an exhaust shop, i make my own exhausts from the dump back, and I usually paint them with high temp paint but everytime I do it just burns off and rusts anyway, and I don’t care enough about the look of an exhaust pipe to go stainless etc. cause it’s built to be used not go to car shows.. Additionally the more I think about it the more I realise megalifes are made to be okay in the engine bay so they’re gonna be way cooler where they are so I mightn’t even bother with wrapping or shielding, will have a chat with a few people. Cause if it was in the engine bay it would be right near the manifold where it’s gonna see 1000° radiant heat as opposed to minimal radiant heat 3m back.

@@timmyhasheart yeah, just had a mate rebuild his TD and he wrapped his rear section maybe 18mths before to protect suspension and stuff and the whole section is completely cactus like full of holes and likely held together by the wrap now more than pipe. If you're fine with that it is probably the easiest option, but while the canopy is off might be just as easy to build a shield.

Yeah true that’s unreal, I guess it would store a heck of a lot of water and be subjected to that many heat cycles, yeah I’m just not keen on the shield idea, I think it would rattle and be a pain is all haha, you’ve sold me on not wrapping it though

👀👀👀

Yeah I rent em man, initial purchase screws you but then the refills aren’t too bad it’s not like I’m a major operation I don’t go through heaps 🤙🏻

I’ve never ever ever had a problem with lithium in any of my cars I bloody love it. 🔥🔥

​@@timmyhasheart Gotta love new battery tec lithium's work so good A Quality pre assembled battery like you have there should have A grade matched cells ,but more importantly a quality BMS controlling charge input and current draw keep it all in check, thus why i build my own lithium battery's from raw cells A or B grade for solar storge are fine ,pre assemble look like a lead acid or AGM but inside the plastic box is electronics Battery management system BMS ,i only use JK brand with active 2amp balancer to keep the cells evenly balanced ,they can last upto 15.000 cycles still retain 80% capacity 10-15 years