DragBoss Garage: Ford 351 Cleveland Oiling: A Professional View With Tristan Triccas 

This is such a refreshing change from other channels that only want to talk about the crappy LS

Great video - great to see the smiling faces being included. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.

I'm glad to see the Ford faithful are still alive & well down under!❤👍😎🏁

What a top video tricky is a good man well done 👍👍👍

A great and interesting discussion guys. Winston, the UK Cleveland man.

Very Cool

Absolutely awesome information.

Good stuff golden mate!

Trick and Manswetto Capri what a Weapon that car a beautiful bit off work living in Australia those Boys were at the top off the game.

The concept of the raised right side pan rail is interesting. I wonder about building a crank girdle/dry sump pan that has a bulge on the right to take advantage of the sling of centrifugal force. The scavenge would also be on this side with a slight slope to the bottom of the pan to direct the oil to that side. A crank scraper could be incorporated into it as well with a downward slope to the centerline of the crank. The other things that I have thought about is putting a large external drain back from the ends of the heads where the drain back is anyway. It all has to drain back at almost a horizontal angle factory. The drain back could drop straight down to the pan or directly to the scavenge pump. Just some thoughts that came to mind while listening to this and working on the Jeep 2.5 Cleveland head adaptation.

You gotta get Zoran from Competition Engines in Melbourne, Australia on the show Tim - another Cleveland guru 💪 Also, Theo from Pavtek. Don't forget Nathan Higgins ... a lot of secrets could be come out of these interviews. Keep up the good work bloke 👍

I like how Tricky said with lifter bore bushings you open the oil gallery back up to allow the full flow of oil and just use the 3 thou groove to restrict the oil to the rockers. Thanks for another great video Tim

Awesome

Tristan is a wealth of knowledge, great video.

Thanks buddy i remember his cars Downunder they were WICKED

Man, this is giving me some flashbacks. The best bearing wear overall I ever got with these engines, was when I had an old Hamburger's oil pan I used. I tried every pan out there, and Like Y'all are saying, I wound up using a squared off Hamburger's pan and a homemade oil scrapper for the crank that took forever to get right. The idea of getting the oil away from the windage and back to the bottom of the pan as fast as possible made the world of difference. I am a dirt dobber, so I've built these for circles mostly. That necessitated a wide vs. deep pan naturally, and the pans we ran had the trap doors in as well. I've never tried his lifter trick, but that sounds fantastic to me! Always great to see new things, and you're getting some excellent material out there, thanks for what you're doing here.

Tristan is a great guy. He showed me around his shop years ago and also got us a spot taking video of them racing the Capri at eastern creek dragway.

On my FE I run Canton deep sump with the trap doors. I still wish they had made a Cleveland 4.63 bore spacing so I could do a 452 FE and man I would love to rip on that!

I remember reading about Glidden's work on the Cleveland program as a kid in the early 2000's, and was truly impressed. Such a great guy with amazing ideas that were way ahead of their time. This is a cool series on the Cleveland, please keep it up!

Another great video Tim !

LOL Trickie rolling out his swag in the Cleveland cave. ( In Aus a swag is different to the rest of the world )

Thanks again Tim this one really pertained to me. I'm not going over 6500 and have an 8 gt pan. I suddenly feel a little better with just radiuses and 20/50. Keep em coming my friend 👍👍

This has made me think about finishing up the Cleveland rebuild and putting it back in the 65 Ford pickup. Thinking about CHI 3V heads and a modified 351Windsor intake from Trick Flow to put EFI on it. If it works out I could develop an EFI kit for the Cleveland. I have seen a couple guys do it and it is intriguing to me.

So much great usable info here. Beautiful family Tim, you're a lucky man!

Strange the 351 C required work if raced while the LS is worshiped while having a very similar system. 🤔 Bob Glidden 👍

So Tristan and I have something in common that we both did. I filed a small groove on the edge of my roller lifters to supply oil to rockers 100% of the time and prevent rocker failure. This "Trick" allows more oil flow to the roller rockers. Thanks for sharing this to us Drag Boss, I found the answer to this problem but nice to know that the Aussies also figured it out too! I had Crane roller rockers, lifters, roller camshaft, guide plates, push rods, triple valve springs, titanium retainers. That little notch I filed in the lifter did prevent further rocker arm damage. I think the wrinkle wall Firestone Firehawk racing slicks, 10.5 x 31 x 15 did the most damage to the engine, along with the 456:1 gears and Zoom spool. That's when acceleration really forced the oil back to the rear main oil seal. Too bad Ford didn't put a rear sump oil pickup in the 1970 Mustang.

I have been running a street Cleavlands for over 50 yrs. and have found Clevland's love boost/turbo and nitrous 'light them up' I use nitrous to 5lbs then turbo takes over, it flyes I use a 20/50 vavaline vr1 I have 125 oil press cold comes down to 35 when at a stop at 200fH% but jumps wright up to 75 when I hit the gas, hot all engines show good ware, for a play toy. frirst engine was a test for a young man and i had to increase the engines strength to sursive the tork. lots had to be done but i am satisfied with my results. car runs great in 10s lots fun. was a chevy man until this ford

Thanks guys, love hearing your wisdom. I'm about to spend lot of money on my 70 Mach1. Keeping it a Cleveland and push through the problems is going to be fun. Looking forward to going 393 with CHi heads etc. I will be watching.

That was good Tim. Next time you talk to tricky, can you ask him about fully grooved main bearings, so the bigend has constant pressure.

The new motor needs to be built on a PAVTEK aftermarket block though *wink*

Cool vid 👌🏼🏁, T&M racing been around, not too far from me & near my work base..... i do agree with the Oil stuff, i mentioned it in one of my Capri vids. That racing 5-10/30 oil is ok at say 160° & at full noise, but not so good at the 180° temp range or at constant cruising temps..... gone back to old school. & Yes the Capri Sump requires a custom rear side oil pick up due to the Xmember/steering location & opted for Custom ASR pro-Series sump 10qt 👍🏼🏁

HI Tim That was great ,thanks to Tricky,I have never met him, but seen mags and youtube vids of him,the biggest problem for Clevelands in Aus is blocks,when you want to run into mid 400 cid range,Tim Meyers blocks nearly double by the time you get them here,and the Arrow by what i been told is very exspensive by the time its machined,that might someting to ask Tricky about

👍 great episode Tim

Great talk 👍👍

Great video! Some awesome info. Thanks guys.

Talking to the man... just listen yanky boy

Tristan, a very smart Ford man from Aussie

Great to hear more about the oil system gives me more things to check when I pull out my 351clevo for a freshen up thanks guys

You guys' impression of an Aussie accent sounds like you are trying to sound like pirates at sea from the late 1700's ..Yo me hearties! We're sailing for Treasure sure!!

Very interesting info

The fun part of Deep pans,Guys would bring them into our shop , so we could cut and add an Inch or however much , we would bet them dobble or nothing to weld them up without any leaks on the first shot ,we won alot of money . BTW we did it with an oxy acetylene torch

Love it, got to get it set up for me to get a top five in communication and commentary. Great evening to you all.

tim, what name brand 9qt pan do you run now

Those guys down under no there Clevelands. I watch some of them on RU-vid. There very fast. Thanks 😊!!

LOL, those little angels are a handful!!

I ran the pipe cleaners in the push rods in my motor to slow the oil down to the top end on my 302 chev motor with roller rockers, joe mar , and roller solid lifters . Spun motor to 7800 with stock rods and arp bolts Yea I learned a lesson on the cross drilled crank bad idea . I been told that running a vacuum in the pan with out a dry sump can cause the oil not to go to the pump . The dry sump and vacuum helps in many ways including longer bearing life I assume that depends on how deep the pan is and if the pick up is always covered with oil even under high GS from the start to when you let off throttle . The dry sump helps get the air that may be entrained oil out , vacuum in the pan I was told helps with ring seal . This is second hand info and I hope this is correct . For sure I never do a cross drilled crank again lol

Im collecting parts for my 408 build and this is extremely important for me to understand correctly, so please correct me if I misunderstood him. He is saying that if my 408 is not twisted over 6500 or 6800 I should get a 8 or 9qt pan, do lifter bushings and a .003 groove, standard oil pump, and not touch anything else. Or should I not even do the .003 groove. This is something I would like you to touch on a little more in detail, especially since I plan on taking my block to the machine shop soon. After I get it back would ne to late.

Speaking of accents; two things I remember when I was in the States in '87. A lovely Texan girl saying "are you Australian, I loved Crocodile Dundee", proving American's can't pick we're NZ'ers; and meeting a fellow Kiwi on the top of the Empire State Building, by recognising his accent. P.S. we Kiwi's can pick the Aussie accent a mile away !!

Loved the interview can't wait to see the next. I wanna build a 500 horse Cleveland for my Foxbody. Any set up recommendations? What I need to do? Thanks in advance, Billy

Like your clev videos I saw your welded tunnel ram in Glidden video I am in Findlay I built 10 sec clev in 70s I sent fb friend request I been searching for 9.2 intake for my yates heads in your video mine like what you said c302b all outside bolts same length I Have 2865 Sc1 intake was hoping shave to fit after checking don't think enough

I have a dual thermostat housing I adapted to mine. It runs a nice cool 160-175. 65-70 psi oil. On 15 w40 The dual thermo's really did the trick. I never knew how much a Cleveland likes running cool. With 2 thermo's when there half way open, it''s the same as one being fully open. So what you get is max flow capacity in half the time. I have yet to see how it does on upper 90's days. If I need to I can still convert all the hoses to 2" hoses. I found the only thing that really works is getting that water swapped out as fast as possible. I also have a 3V pulley so the pump is driven off the bigger crank pulley. Had to put all silicon hoses because the rubber ones blew up like balloons under the extra pressure. It moves a lot of water fast now. Do you run water in your race motors? Have you really worked on the cooling? Since there is so much more I could do to get more water flow and swap out faster, I bet it can stay cool even over 1k hp. Hone the 2 holes in the head bigger for one. The hole the OE thermostat is 2". So make it flow that full 2" all the way to radiator. External dual thermostat housing. Have made out of billet alum. 2" inlet, outlet, and change inlet on radiator to 2". It's necessary to run hard pipe from the block to thermostat housing and have new 2" water neck made. I think the bottom can go up to 1 5/8 to match water pump inlet. Keep that motor cooler, oil stays cool, better pressure, stays in place better and of coarse last longer. And less heat on everything attached to motor, and intake temps. Tons of HP to be had with keeping it cooler I think.

I have a 400 , anyone need it..?

So if I’m understanding all this correctly, large oil capacity, 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000 rpm, and the 3 thousands modification and your good to 7ish

Tim, what pan are you going to when you go rack an pinion and rear sump? I’m using the Canton, and I think I may be running out of oil. You can’t use a windage with it BTW.

You have to put 2 pipe cleaners in each pushrod and they will not come out.

So Dragboss I'm thinking of doing a 408 stroker 5 to 600 hp for my foxbody trick flow has a aluminium heads, intake and top end set up "twisted wedge" to keep it fuel injected and stock in appearance. I guess my question is if I do a set up like that with intentions of a turbo later my oiling system should be fine stock? And any recommendations on style of bearing coated, dirty, etc?