Ive been tinkering with classic engines for a bit and have wanted to dabble with turbos in more of a vintage vibe.... this is it. I think ive figure out how to run x4 strombergs and twin turbo a classic cadillac in an odd but fun way. Thanks for making this video, glad i found it... now down the rabbit hole i go
This is a great turbocharging technique that I have not seen in any discussions or videos. Figured that some knowledge on this subject could be shared to inform and give ideas to anyone that would like an easy turbo setup not needing an intercooler or any complicated expensive computer controlled fuel injection systems. Its a great proven reliable way to make turbo power on a very reasonable budget.
Yes either internal waste gate that is built in on most turbochargers or an external waste gate mounted on the turbo header before the turbine flange to regulate exhaust pressure in turn boost.
+Budget Boosting Forced induction doesn't change compression ratio. it increases your theoretical displacement by increasing compression pressure. (higher pressure at bottom of stroke, higher pressure at TDC.) The ratio between the volume of the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke compared to TDC doesn't change. Serious block/crankshaft modding is required to change this ratio. You need higher octane fuel to resist knock, or install a head spacer to increase the cylinder volume at TDC (Compression ratio stays the same, more volume at bottom stroke, more at top, in an equal proportion) to offset the increase in cylinder pressure. Shorter connecting rods and shorter piston heads will also have this effect. While the aforementioned options may allow the use of non-premium fuel, you have lower power output than stock whilst boost is building, since the cylinder pressure has a big effect on power output, and is the sole determining factor in what grade fuel you need to run. The rest of the video is pretty helpful though, thank you for explaining the simplest way to turbo a carbureted engine.
Man it's Incredible, how the whole system works, here in Brazil little or hardly you see something like this, I'm Brazilian and I don't understand the English language, but its language, its pronunciation is very comprehensive, I barely needed subtitles, won a subscriber Brazilian Sorry for the translation (Google Translator) Success !!
I think - I know this is what youtube needs. Not a rich kid showing off what his parent got him or zinc he doesn hav family every dollar goes to his car. This is probably the best budget video I've seen- minus the cockyness. Great job break in it down too. I wish you the best. You give us dads hope of still building. Solid car/ motor an having. Family. Thanks. Jason.
my intension is not cockiness, but being informative on ways that performance can be had within reasonable budget limits. I guess I am not very personable but that's me.
@@budgetboosting I said you were not cocky but efficient in your demonstration, & the he or she was easily offended. That's thanks to the political correctness, it makes people who don't have their own thoughts very weak minded.
I pray his erratic mind found peace 10 years later lol😂. To be honest one of the best videos i seen on drawn through setups on RU-vid. What a shame none of the tags direct people to the video 😢
I've been running draw through with propane for a while now with pretty good results (forklift parts). It sucks a TON of fuel down though. It's just kind of scary to think I'm sucking explosive compressed gas through a screaming hot turbo and some home depot hot tub hoses and toilet accesories, then down the intake. But it's been loyal for 5 years even starting right up in -20F weather. My mounts and adapters are 100% from the plumbing department and it's set up that you can steal ANY bbq tank and drive about 50 miles in a pinch. Not recommended but you can do this relatively safely if there is a gasoline shortage and you have an emergency.
Love the info. I'm on a tight budget and it looks like a draw thru setup is the way to go. I have a 1964 Mustang with the original great running 260 V8. Want to add sone power without the pain of swapping to a 302 like everyone suggests. If you know anything about Fords you know they ain't exactly universal on switching engines and transmissions.
Hey thanks for the video. Prior to this I didn't even know what that was I heard someone talk about it being on an 81 trans am. I appreciate you taking your time to explain this. was great help.
Hello Mad Matt. Just wanted to say that this video on DRAW through turbocharging has re-inspired me to add some form of "supercharging" to my Slant Six! Your style and instruction is very straight forward and no-nonsense. Very helpful to those who might otherwise be intimidated by such an undertaking. I have been toying with idea of turbocharging for some time. But I was under the impression that turbos and carburetors don't play very well with one another. This notion may have been perpetuated by the crude technology and engineering of turbocharging by auto manufacturers in the late-70's through the early-80's. They seemed to have had reliability issues and disappointing performance despite all of the advertising hype. Your videos have changed my perspective. I'm sure many other of your subscribers have felt the same way.It seems to me, that basically the Draw-Through arrangement is not all that different than bolting a carb(s) on to of a "traditional" Roots style crank-driven super charger for a similar effect of increasing the PSI of air/fuel mixture into the manifold plenum. The Draw Through configuration seems to me to be a great entry-level experience into the world of Turbocharging. Because of this new-found information that you graciously offered, I am seriously considering "dipping my toe" into creating my forced induction fabrication projectA couple quick questions. How much should someone expect to pay for a used '80-'81 301 Turbo Firebird carburetor (or other GM turbo) 4 bbl. mounting plenum that allows the air/fuel mixture into the turbo inlet? Also, does the carb necessarily have to be above, or at least level height with the intake manifold? The reason I ask is because I might have some vertical space considerations to deal with in terms of clearance issues. My hope is that the draw from the turbocharger would basically force (suck) the air/fuel mixture into the housing without having to be concerned with using gravity for the mixture of a carbureted, natural aspirated configuration. Thanks in advance and keep the great videos coming.
+WasntMeOfficer I was lucky on ebay, I purchased the draw through carb mounting plenum for around $50, its pretty much hit and miss on ebay. Saw other auctions for the whole carb, plenum and turbo combination for around $800.00 on ebay auctions. Wrecking yards would also be a good source since many do not know of all the draw through turbo cars made from 78-83 until fuel injection was the way the manufacturers went with turbocharging. I recently purchased the first generation turbo buick which is a draw through 4 bbl. carbureted 3.8 turbo V6 which started the evolution towards the famous Buick Grand nationals that hit the scene and made turbocharging ever so popular today. In my area Fallon, Nevada, I also spotted a 1980 Pontiac turbo trans am which had the draw though 4bbl. carbureted turbocharged 301 ci V8, the first of its kind from the factory. He didn't have a for sale sign on it however, have seen it for sale on the internet.
so glad I found this. it is giving me ideas for my little Toyota 4ac. gonna show people that with time and knowledge you can get performance without having to drop in a more "popular" engine.
JESUS THIS VIDEO TAUGHT ME EVERYTHING I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT TURBO-ING MY 83 GTI. Thanks! haha I always thought it was very complicated because I didn't know this was possible, I only knew about blow through. SUBSCRIBED!
Back in the 80's I had a 76 chevelle SS that I did this setup on. A company made a kit that had the turbo, carb intake and adaptor to bolt on top of the intake manifold. The carb wound up where the battery was so I relocated it to the other side. The only tricky part was the exhaust. I recall having to pipe the left side headers over to the right side and Y them together and then into the turbo that sat on the right side behind the carb with a single exhaust pipe coming out of the turbo.. The advantage with Draw through systems is you dont have to mess with the jetting or anything really. Since it's pulling the gas with the air it just pulls more of both in proportion so the mixture can basically stay the same... With forced systems you you have to increase fuel flow to keep up with the air your pushing in there. So these systems can be installed in an afternoon without any tuning other than retarding the timing a bit to prevent detonation. Of course with so many cars being fuel injected now and ECUs thjngs are complicated, but if you get your hands on a carburated car these things are fun. That chevelle was a total sleeper and was so quite since I just had the one pipe into just a bigger stock muffler. So fun smoking all those big cam loud Street rods back in the day. They would take me off the line but the look on their faces when I quietly passed them was priceless.
VERY cool! And I thought I knew everything. LOL I know those Buick's were capable of being real fast! Keep the info coming. I am enjoying the vids very much!
Thanks for the explanation. Although I do not exactly know how a blow through turbocharger works. As I would like to use a M122 roots style supercharger that is blown into a turbocharger on an LS engine. I just have not figured out how to route everything correctly.
Thanks!. Not a bad rundown.Remember some exhaust manifolds (factory made) had provision for external wastegate ...as in the Mitsubishi sigma turbo (Australia) 1981!.
+John Caton They all have either an internal wastegate built on the turbo charger or an external wastegate built on the turbo header or exhaust manifold. If not, the turbo would overspeed and cause engine or turbo damage or both.
good to know stuff here. former fc2 (disabled here). draw through are good when you live in a warmer climate. i have one in storage for the buick 3.8 and 2 grand national turbo setups (i am thinking about putting one on each bank of my 429 BBF). if you look at the draw through setups, when the air is drawn through the carb, it gets REALLY cold and condenses. if you watch a car running, youll see the intake sweating before the turbo. one doesnt want to use a mechanical carb either. vacuum 2nd is best because youll want a large carb to feed the turbo but bigger will kill power while not spooling... what i want to do is take the draw through setup and run propane through it. that way, you would have the 9:1 or so and still have low end torque, but not knock and ping at higher rpm due to octane of propane. should be able to turn the boost up higher with propane for that reason. can you shed any light?
The challenge of propane would be the challenge of how to inject it into the carburetor. It's a good idea, however you would almost have to inject it directly into your manifold, and experiment when to inject it. You would have to have a system that injected it at specific times, similar to a nitrous kit. I highly recommend if you can get 100+ Octane fuel, I would stick with that, because it's more consistent and manageable than propane would be. We run 100LL (Low Lead) AV Gas, which is available at our local airport.
they have a carb hat to mix the propane. fits on the air filter ring. remove the jets and seal a few things in the carb and yer golden. once adjusted, its passing fuel/air like normal air. seems easier this way..i just havent played with it.
I ran propane for many year they have an assembly called a mixer . It served the same function as a carb but no float. You adjust the Mixer turn dial for rich or lean no heating required. A heater is required which warms the Propane as it evaporated and requlates the pressure to the mixer. O The heater is just a pressure regulatory with heater hoses lines from the engine to warm the vapor. Propane runs from 100 octane to 115 far superior to gasoline. Easy to install. Propane lives to run at ,12.5 to one compression ratio. Propane Enters the mixer intake and engine as a gas no droplet or pudding. The mixer does not need a Ventura to function. Propane having higher octane than gas can be run lean at high compression with more ignition advance than gas. Because the propane is always vapor at mixer presure unlike gas it will not wash down cylinders. Propane Will resist knocking very well and burns 100% of the fuel very clean powerful and can achieve good fuel economy if you use high compression and lean mix propane does not need a choak or high Idle when cold starting because it is already vaporized it will start soon as you bump the engine even at 40 below zero.
I've got a 83 F150,I'm gonna do something very similar! But I have a question..Do you need to get bigger Jets, float bowl and Higher pressure Fuel pump to supply the engine with the Needed fuel the engine is now Requiring? " Will you need to alter the carb to supply enough fuel?"
great info dude, i never knew there is 2 types of carb boosting. Draw-through being the simplest, am i right to say that blow through setup is more efficient and safe for turbo itself? tq
Awesome video,I have a 87 sentra 5 speed e16i and it desperately needs a boost 69hp factory just will not do I think this would be a great option for it or engine swap,any thoughts?
Nothing wrong with draw through setups people. Indy Cars were doing over 200 miles per hour in the 60s into the 70s with it. At one point there was so much debate over draw VS blow, that even A.J. Foyt used upstream and downstream fuel injection in his FOYT engines, and was one of the fastest out there. I had a 'new 79 4cyl Turbo Mustang Pace Car, that I tuned and tweaked with 22lbs of boost, ethanol through the top of my carb, for extra charge cooling, and I smoked almost everything on the freeway from Berdoo to Long Beach. I could run with a Carrera until I ran out of gears, I only had a 4 speed BUTTTT it would get me to 151.... according to the CHP ;) .
My dad had a 400 horse full forged 2.3 turbo in a merkur when i was younger used to take it down for track days and race against the turbo carreras he could run them down on the straights but wasnt as fast coming out of the turns but if he held his line he could really run with them
I have this setup on my Datsun 240z with 2" su carburettor but it overfuel engine especially if off boost. Any advice please? I can send pictures or video on massager
i like the info. curious if you have run the setup on any vehicles yet. im looking to do this on a small motorcycle but curious if fuel heating in the compressor housing is an issue due to the temps the turbo gets up to?
I have a neat little frankenstien that i'm building. I found a kit i believe is from the mid eighties made by RM. It's for a small block chevy. Really nice manifolds a cross over pipe an Air Research 62mm turbo drawthrough setup. I am mounting it on a vortec L31 5.7 litre 350 through performer rpm intake manifold. However instead of carbed I will be trying to mount a tbi on top as it is going in my 87 chev shortbox. What do you think? should work just as good as a carb if not better no?
+hotshothogger Many great TBI kits out there. I especially like the ones in Summit racing, one of them has a TBI system, standalone electronics rated to manage 21 pounds of boost. That would be my choice.
Excellent video. I have a willys jeep with F-134 Hurricane engine. I am inspired to turbo charge it after seeing your video :) Will there be any icing issues in the carburetor? If so how can it be addressed? Can i run the turbo with LPG with the same set up? I also have an LPG conversion kit installed in my jeep.
Ato Lkr Startup will be fun in extreme cold conditions however since the carburetor is in the engine bay, the engine will warm it up after some time idling. Its not too bad with electric choke. The 1978 through 1983 Turbo Buicks and 1980 and 81 Pontiac Trans Am turbo had draw through carb setups from the factory and they did start quite well. There was also a heat riser from the factory from the exhaust manifold leading to the air cleaner to warm things up even more upon startup.
@@budgetboosting are you referring to two carbs side by side like the older Nissans twin Mikuni setup? Or a two barrel Mikuni? (My '84 RM250 ran the same carb as my buddies Nissan 4x4 which ran two on a 4banger...it would float.. lol)
Hello, first off, great explanation. I wanted to learn the basics of turbocharging with carburated engines. Im thinking about doing a Briggs and Stratton turbo engine for a go kart power build. But I think there are some problems with turbocharging a single cylinder engine with no oil pan. How do I get around that.
R Sanchez Having a modern supercharged and fuel injected set up would make it much easier to turbocharge. You final product would be supercharger off the line and turbo boost from midrange to redline. In my opinion the best set up you could do. Look up Hennessey performance Ford GT supercharged and turbocharged super car. To do this you run the turbocharger boost to the intercooler and then to the intake of the throttle body leading to the supercharger. Draw through or blow through turbo combinations are for older carbureted cars or cars that you would prefer to convert to carburetor. Thank you for watching and hope this answers your questions.
In the late 80's (87?)GM used a preheater under the carb on the s-10 4 cyl engines, it vaporized the fuel before it got into the engine, increased gas mileage by a ton when it was on all the time, so they incorporated a heat sensor to make it run intermittently, the deisel engines in most new pickups use an electric heater on the incoming air, any thoughts on this instead of using methanol to stop freeze ups?
Amazing video. You explained everything so easily. I drive carb engine cars (not American, just small Japan cars) all my driving life and always was thinking about put turbo (or compressor) on them. But in my country modified carbs are lost art :) But this video gave me so thoughts and maybe...
Budget Boosting years ago HKS made a twin TD06 turbocharged set up blowing through triple Mikuni side draft carburators for the L28. Awesome combination and set up, hard to find but one of a kind. Can be found in Yahoo Auctions Japan sometimes. Would be nice to see those set ups for sale internationally again. I'm sure there would be lots of z fans that would order them.
TREY CARVALHO @url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=HJHd_CG6RFKlhM&tbnid=JgIV2dHo7goNOM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.zdriver.com%2Fforum%2F280zx-s130-forums-77%2Fcarb-conversion-23075%2F&ei=_yr6U4nCEoytogSYpYKAAg&bvm=bv.73612305,d.cGE&psig=AFQjCNGVmbQFxyxdJt1oodDDuhF0oRt4ow&ust=1408990327158331 This is a kit Jim Cook racing sold several years ago to fit 1970 through 1983 Nissan/Datsun Z cars. This kit was around $3500 back then and it was complete with turbocharger, custom turbo header, wastegate, air cleaner intercooler, triple weber side draft carburators with custom surge tank to feed boost to those carbs. This was a very powerful combination for the old z cars and would make a fortune if someone would start fabricating and selling these complete kits again. Food for thought.
Do you need a special turbo? Like will the turbo need special seals to deal with the vacuum caused when you let off the throttle? I’m asking because I never turbocharged a motor but I assume if it I get a turbo that was intended for fuel injection the turbo would not be built to see vacuum on the input side. Thanks
I guess another thing to ask about would be distributor timing. How will a stock distributor react to boost instead of vacuum when you put a load on the engine? I’ve got a 403 olds that is stock and would like to try this possibly. Thanks again.
Hey Matt, I was wondering for a draw through set up whether you have to modify the carb? I know on a blow through you need a double pumper set up but I would like to know if it’s the same thing. Or I can use a double pumper set up on a draw through. Or I don’t have to adjust it at all because the carb is on outside? Thanks.
Not sure if anybody has the time to answer this question but im curious; has anybody added a turbo on a 20R toyota engine? Im currently rebuilding my 1980 toyota truck 20R engine ,and was thinking about adding a turbo to help with towing a micro-camper.
hey man great video u made it easier for me to understand the concept i want to know if that will work for a Honda hornet cb600f sport bike in this hot climate we have down here thanks
+komonology I believe it would work great, the hard part is finding the space around the engine for all the components, motorcycle engines are usually in there pretty tight. Let me know how it goes.
James Krys Outstanding, Sometimes I may be off a year or so, 65 was in my head at the time.... The point is, draw through has been around a long time and can be quite successful if done correctly. Thanks for watching.
It has the risk of fuel air mixture get ignited in the turbine or before get into cyllinder, hasn'tbit? And it will be difficult to startup the engine, the fuel-air mixture has long way to get into cyllinder, wouldn't it?
Highly unlikely. Your compressor must be running way too hot for this to happen. If it's running that hot, then you have bigger problems. Starting the engine wouldn't be a problem. Enough fuel and air and it goes boom in the cylinders. The question is, how do you control fuel flow for a normal idle
Matt, thanks for all the informative videos. I am starting a draw thru turbo project, 1980 Monte Carlo Turbo, has the 231 CID Buick V6 Turbo & Rochester Quadrajet Carb..All Stock. Can you share any further tips with me for getting maximum performance without damaging the engine? Thanks.
Nick L I would recommend getting a mechanical carburetor such as a Holley, Quick fuel, or the best carburetor of your preference, since the stock Rochester has electronic functions in the carburetor that are more suited for emission compliance than performance. I have seen the electronic parts in the carburetor act up and effect the carburetor function to the point where the engine will not operate at idle and stumble any time the throttle is increased. A mechanical carburetor (other than electric choke) is easiest for jet tuning and use an adjustable boost referenced fuel pressure regulator to regulate fuel more effectively to the carburetor which does so upon increase in boost. The turbocharger from the factory is a small T3 which can be sent to Turbonetics for upgraded larger turbine and compressor wheels to the tune of a T60, 62, 66 T series turbocharger or to your power level goals. The turbo compressor case on the stock Buick has a bolt pattern that is unique to that turbocharger and turbonetics should be able to update the internals to a ball bearing modern turbo that will spool much faster to more boost and volume of the boost. Also an adapter can be made to adapt your Carburator draw through manifold to a Turbonetics Buick Grand national style, 3 bolt Stage III Cheetah turbocharger which could give around 600 hp. potential depending on boost levels desired. Let me know what you think about it. Thank you for watching.
Budget Boosting Thanks for the speedy reply. I must have lucked out because I just purchased a rebuilt Quadrajet that is all mechanical minus the choke. I am not sure what size jets, etc. are currently in it yet. Do you have any idea how much boost the stock turbo is capable of producing and how much boost the engine can handle? I plan to make improvements to the air intake, should I open up the exhaust as well? Is it worth trying to tune everything with the stock turbo or should I just upgrade to a larger one?
Nick L That engine as is could handle easy 10 lbs. up to over 15 lbs. With fine tuning, that set up could easily handle 18 lbs. of boost. With better high octane fuel such as 100 or more octane, boost levels over 25 lbs. can be attained.
For this draw through setup... do you need to change the Cam ( as you would a standard Turbo system), or could I just put in and run with a Non turbo camshaft?
Cam change is not necessary if the cam already has an rpm power range that matches or is very close to the rpm range that your turbo makes power. I choose my camshaft to match the rpm power band to that of turbo as close as possible to ensure they work together. I also do the same to match the intake manifold power band with that of the turbo to pick my cam. When shopping for cams and intake manifolds they usually describe it's working power band for example 1500 to 6500 rpm. My selecting of cams would be the same for draw through as for any other style of boosting forced induction.
Stock cams work best for many turbocharged cars. Upgraded cams affect overlap which makes the time the valves are open to cram "boost" into the cylinder less or never completely closed at the same time to make a positive pressure in the cylinder. Im not good at explaining things but trust me. Your stock cam is turbo friendly.
any tips or recommendations for doing a 22r Toyota truck? this seams to be a cheap way for me to boost mine I'm boosting on a budget and looking for mild performance as its a show truck and alot of sound
Yes timing and fuel pressure need to be adjusted to fuel watch our two carburetor jetting videos and blow thru carburetor videos again and I talk a lot about carburetor jetting, the gages you need to make these adjustments. Its easier to watch the videos a lot and take notes on what to apply to your carburetor tuning for boost.
Got a good question for you what about a blow off valve how are you going to regulate the pressure when you let off the throttle aren't you going to have a lot of turbo lag
My turbo is a ray Jay . And has no internal gate . Can I run an external gate ? And how would I plumb positive boat pressure to make the gate work ? There would be fuel going through the gate?
Intake manifold pressure line to actuate external waste gate under boost pressure. Wastegate installed just before turbo flange to regulate exhaust which
What would you do for your timing control? Working on building a draw through setup for a 300 ford, and timing is the last thing holding me up. any ideas?
finally i undrstood, after watching 5 times. how big of a turbo is reommend. also toyota engine 2t has high compresion piston. how much boost will you recomend?. can i use LPG also for turbo. thank you so much
+Alex B An engine with already high compression is great so you can get big improvements with very little boost. 8 pounds of boost on your higher compression engine is like 15 lbs on a low compression engine by estimated comparison. So the potential is really good.
sir i hope u would answer me on this... my qstion is... does the carb need a fuel regulator and do i need to clamp a tubing from the intake to the fuel regulator to regulated more fuel at much higher boost?? maybe increase fuel to air ratio.. im expecting the highest horses in my project.. Maybe we could interact thruu a facebook..
Finally found you! Thanks pal! Subscribed, added to my Favorites, Shared and everything else! Now can you tell me about the blow off system? Does it need one? Thanks!
could i use a 2bbl carburetor for this setup on a 4 cylinder engine or would that not be enough fuel.i have a weber 32/36. id like to do this on a mitsubishi mighty max and keep it low budget
I have a question about the draw thru set up. If I connect a hose from the pressure side of the turbo to the wastegate actuator is it ok? because then fuel mix will open the wastegate instead of air, like normal turbocharged cars. Is the wastegate actuator fuel resistent ?
+Tim Budna sounds like you are describing a blow off valve. The wastegate is located on the hot section of the turbocharger to direct excess exhaust to the downpipe once optimum boost is reached.
Where did you source the draw through plumbing? From bottom of carb to turbo inlet peice? I cannot find anyone anywhere or I missing the name or something
It needs to be customized to your vehicle and carb. There are a lot of draw through carb set ups sold for turbo charging VW bugs the old ones. They have draw thru piece you can mount carb on and attach to inlet of turbo compressor.ronlummusracing.com/product/holley-four-barrel-carburetor-intake-manifold-3-cast/ ronlummusracing.com/product/holley-four-barrel-carburetor-intake-manifold-3-cast/ For example above
question: will this work using LPG? you're probebly asking your self, "why would you???" well, fuel prices in europe are ridiculously high. i realise that LPG is a slower burning fuel source and the expected power of a turbo will be far less than when using petrol but wil it work??? greets from holland great video!
geewizboogieman That sounds like an interesting idea. It would be interesting to reduce the injected fuel and introduce just a bit of the LPG. Kind of like a hybrid, some LPG and some Petrol mix just the right amounts to conserve both fuels and have the cooling qualities of the LPG sharing with the combustion energy of the Petrol. Kind of like people mix Nitrous Oxide with Petrol but instead LPG with Petrol. Some kind of electronic controller to ensure just the right amount of LPG introduced at certain boost settings.
You don't need any of that. There's no pressure in the intake when the carb is closed (off throttle) and without exhaust gases the turbo doesn't spool up either. When you're off the throttle, you simply have no residual boost like you would with a blow through setup or a conventional fuel injected setup.
Wouldn't it have more lag than a draw through setup? Since it's only drawing with more exhaust pressure, but to get that pressure you would need to send fuel through
Is there any problem between the gasoline and the heat made by the turbo? if the gasoline and aire mixure that goes from the carb into the compressor get overheat... could i explote?
+Diego Padilla This system was successful in the 1978 through 1983 Buick regal turbo V6 engines as well as the 1980 and 1981 Pontiac Trans Am turbo engines. The importance being just the right amount of fuel not too much where fuel could pool in the compressor where an intake backfire could light it up.
+Bob Marley basically remove carb, run carb to turbo compressor inlet, run turbo compressor discharge to intake manifold by way of custom flanges, do custom weld and fabrication for all boost lines, exhaust flanges, and oil lines and there you go.
would a stock cv carb need to be tuned differently or would there have to be any mods done to the turbo for this type of setup to work @Budget Boosting ?
Most turbochargers just move air, draw through set up moves air and fuel mixture inside the compressor so having seals that can handle fuel and air mixture is important so that no fuel/air escapes the compressor housing and goes directly in the intake manifold. Carburetors, so many types and variables, the important tuning for carburetors is more fuel delivery during boost, which can be done by a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator. Jetting of the carburetor to ensure enough fuel from idle, redline and amount of boost pressure. How to monitor is having the right gages or datalogging equipment to make sure boost pressure, air/fuel ratio, exhaust temperature, fuel pressure, coolant temperature and oil pressure can be monitored to ensure they are in safe limits. Small adjustments to fuel, timing, and boost to achieve reliable strong performance well within gage safety limits is key. If at any time a gage is approaching unsafe limitation, back off, make an adjustment and repeat test. Many go to Dyno for this fine tuning since it can be difficult finding long stretches of untraveled road to do so. Most Dyno places also monitor your engine with gages of their own as well.
If I use a draw through supercharger do I need to change my carb ? Or will the power valve not open and if not... Is there s place to run the vacuum line id make to blower that would otherwise be the intake manifold vacuum port??
