Use a proper face grinding disc and not a piece of sandpaper attached with Velcro! Makes a huge difference as the flexible paper will ever so slightly flex and mess up your angles (= more wear, dulling quicker).
Help, I appreciate your comment because the angle grinder method was my first choice. I have three different wheels in my shop. One is the pieces of sand paper which you would eliminate as a choice. The other two are conventional hard grinding wheels. Can you recommend a wheel hardness? It is obvious you have some experience, so thank you for the help. cr
Chris Reeves 1 second ago Help, I appreciate your comment because the angle grinder method was my first choice. I have three different wheels in my shop. One is the pieces of sand paper which you would eliminate as a choice. The other two are conventional hard grinding wheels. Can you recommend a wheel hardness? It is obvious you have some experience, so thank you for the help. cr
para que las brocas duren mas tiempo .... siempre se debe realizar previamente un orificio piloto e ir perforando poco a poco medida tras medida hasta llegar al diametro deseado
The index at the end that holds the bit at the right angle isn't being used correctly. You aren't getting enough relief angle and that is why you are having to use so much pressure to drill a hole. I have basically the same one that was sold under the Craftsman brand and it works great. Once you get the index setup correctly you will use a LOT less force to drill the same hole.
Thanks for the advice. This device of my friend, from gave me a little play with it. I have already made a similar analogue, and a little understood the essence. Thanks again!
I've had that jig so many years and never used it. Cannot find the instructions for really setting it up proper now. Never took the time to buy a side grinding wheel for any of my bench grinders.
@@chrisreeves8037 Chris, the extension of the drill bit past the index (called the lip rest) should be half the diameter of the drill if grinding a point angle of 59 degrees. It is called Overhang and instructions are online for this under the name Craftsman Drill Grinding Attachment Model 9-6677. Most drills for general use will use 59 degrees. So, if this was a 1/2 inch drill bit, the overhang would be 1/4 inch past the lip rest. The lip rest is adjustable and should be extended slightly into the flute of the drill bit. The base of this unit and the pivot rod are angled to automatically set the clearance angle of the drill point during rotation or "sweeping" of the fixture. The overhang will vary from 1/16 of an inch for a point angle of 88 degrees to 100 percent of the drill diameter at a point angle of 49 degrees. This fixture will grind the point angle and the clearance angle at the same time.There is a point angle/overhang chart in the instructions.
Maybe you can tell me too, please, how you adjust the 2 screws in front and with the piece of thin sheet from them lifted up . I wanted to send you a picture, but I don't know how
PARABÉNS, ficou excelente, eu comprei a alguns dias um dispositivo deste, estou montando o esmeril para dar início a afirmação, eu só não entendi direito, a lamina que dizem que é para o posicionamento da broca, vamos ver se eu consigo entender quando for fazer! Abraço e muito obrigado aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
Little help here... The sliding indexing peg that goes into the flute. Does this go to the cutting edge of the flute or the tailing edge? I have one of these and the instruction isn't clear
I like the idea of an angle grinder instead of the more common bench grinder but I’m a bit skeptical about drilling a bolt hole into my angle grinder housing in order to fit the steel angle attachment for vise mounting. I’m thinking I might try hot melt glue to make this connection…..
Grinders typically have threaded female slots on either side to support the handle. You can see her he used the side without the handle to connect tú the bracket. Hope this helps! Blessings 👐 💚
@@MadeInGarage mine is a picador Fig. 9 made in england simalar in every way expect for a spring loaded clamp to keep pressure off drill when loosening.
found this at work and a manual for it on google but cannot figure out how to make it work right, wrote this comment before finishing the video and now I can see he can't either lmao
Привет! Очень хорошее приспособление, тоже часто таким приспособлением затачиваю сверла, у меня на канале есть много видео где я им пользуюсь, но Вы меня извените, но с заточкой что то непонятное, сверло у Вас не сверлит, или может у сверлилки обороты слишком высокие?
wow, thats a bit of a mess. Here's some ideas for you. That's a drill trying to cut by there's no clearance, which you can pretty much see if you look at the drill after you ground it. Study the instructions, mfg's pdf is online. It looks clearance is going to depend on how far from toot rest the wheel is - they give a chart. With a short radius than you were using you should get more clearance....that plus break the heel also as per instructions
i know im randomly asking but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb lost my password. I would love any assistance you can offer me.
@Karter Marcus Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Отвратительно заточил сверло. Рукажоп- знатный. Ещё и свелит на сухую.Просто углы вывести на сверле - это мало. А затыловку- Вася Бафанов будет делать???
I am surprised you are happy with that performance, this is very poor and slow drill despite the force you are giving, there is not chipping action at all, lot of rubbing i am assuming, if you compared that to the originally ground drill you will never use that sharpener, I think at least 4 times slower than the original ground gerometry
Again I say, people will sell anything to anybody to make money, and the worst part is that they don't care a damn about safety. Now brother, have you seen a grinding wheel disintegrate? The thickness or width of a grinding wheel determines the rigidity and strength of the wheel. If people keep on doing grinding operations on the side of a wheel, it becomes thinner and more dangerous. These Chinese grinding wheels are the most dangerous.
Did you watch the video that you commented on? I agree that the video showcases some GAWD AWFUL practices, but certainly not the one you're talking about. If you want to spout some anti-china BS, do it somewhere else.
Эластичная чашка - не самый подходящий инструмент для заточки сверла. По-моему автор канала косячит сознательно, чтоб вызвать шквал возмущенных комментариев.
