Drill Press Tune Up and Maintenance 

Jonathan Katz-Moses, I don't know if you check these or not but, in case you do, check vintagemachinery.org for a manual.

Hahaha yeah that wasn't voice over. That was my favorite too. Picturing him raising that for the first time made me laugh uncontrollably

I beginning to believe that no one on RU-vid knows, or cares to share the run out. I saw one video where the guy cleans the spindle, and the chuck, puts it back together, turn it on and (drum roll please) it wobbles to beat hell!, But he's standing claiming it's perfect! My intuition says a) cleaning may correct it b) the chuck needs to be replaced, so might as well upgrade c) the chuck isn't seated on the spindle well d) the spindle bearings are bad. I assume there are bearings in there somewhere 🤔 e) something else

Bahahaha you need to watch more Shaun Boyd videos if you think that's bad

Sorry the free content I made didn’t meet your expectations /s

I hope so!!!!!!!!!!!

...but we can dig it....

I dont know. Doesn't sound scientific to me. I'll take a square and a smooth shaft anyday over a coat hanger

@@katzmosestools The concept is to extend the reference point way beyond the immediate zone right below the chuck.

😂😂

I dont know man. Sounds like a mystery but the motor or belt could definitely be the culprit

Check out the part of the video where I am using WD40 and a pry bar. It was stuck pretty good but it was just a tapered shaft that it was on. Just some motivation from a pry bar and a hammer should be enough

If your tires were balanced you'd still check alignment

@@katzmosestools that doesn’t make sense, tire balance and steering alignment are two different axis. Runout and square are the same axis.

@@mode1charlie170 runout has nothing to do with whether the bit is square to the table

@@katzmosestools Ok I see what your checking now. I didn’t think that the table could be out. Thanks

Hahaha that's just our upload schedule

You have to get a new one I think. Once something is bent it's toast. The only potential fix is that if you have a tapered shaft then maybe you're Chuck is not seated all the way

It's worth mention that the shaft telescopes inside the press... SO there are bushings and bearings and all that... Those can wear down or out too... Obviously, any of the such is kind of painstaking and technical, but worth figuring out exactly what causes the wobble before "junking" an otherwise good or repairable machine... ;o)

A pretty fair bet is that it "probably" bumps off with a mallet... BUT there are a few things to do for "figuring it out"... First, hunt down a good "penetrating lubricant" or "rust breaker" lubricant chemical... I can recommend "PB Blaster's Penetrating Catalyst"... It's in a white bottle with bright red and yellow labels and a small yellow cap ( small for a spray-can)... You'll want to use the "straw" to get the stuff between the chuck and the "movement shaft", which is the telescoping thing that actually moves up and down... inside it is where the "Power shaft" transfers power from the pulleys to the chuck... Just sprits a little (the stuff stays slick forever and gets everywhere)... and leave it a few minutes... and then sprits again... maybe two or three "passes". Give it between ten minutes and half an hour to "soak in" because this stuff takes a few minutes but REALLY penetrates... AND THEN you can take a plain rubber mallet and "drum" around the upper sides of the chuck... You're trying to introduce some wobble, not move mountains or "break" anything free all at once. SO strive for a firm strike each time, and then rotate to a new position... You should be able to see movement in a few passes, but be patient... Old parts that haven't moved in years can take a while to free up. What if it's not a "friction fitting"??? Non-friction connections come in two types that I've ever seen. 1. End-bolt... This may have a bolt straight up the center of the chuck, and they tend to be tight as hell... BUT you have to clean and Clean and CLEAN first to even see them usually... Go ahead and spray degreasing agent (I don't recommend acetone here, personally) while the chuck is wide open on the drill... WD-40 is reasonable, and won't deteriorate the table or your face should there be backspray... BUT I've generally been reasonably lucky with Simple Green or Purple Power (Advance Auto or Auto-Zone are good sources... along with the PB Blaster) and HOT water, a "throw away" tooth brush will also help if the chuck is large enough... Alternatively (and for smaller chucks) you can pop by any store with a craft section for pipe-cleaners (those wirey fuzzy things kids make silly crap out of at school) and those can be twisted together or manually formed to shapes for reaching in and swabbing out before going through the migraine-induction of cotton swabs. Once cleaned out, you should be able to tell what type of bolt is holding this thing in place with a decent flashlight... shine right up the chuck and look... with luck it's still got enough of the head to show phillips or allen or even hexagonal shape for a tool to reach and "grab"... THEN it's as simple as a pipe-wrench on the chuck itself or some means to "lock" the pulleys-end of the shaft in position to extract the bolt... BUT you may decide that cleaning the chuck out was good enough, and move on without too much fuss. 2. SOME (in my dubious experience only a few) chucks were clamped onto the shaft with a "set-screw" which will usually be an allen-driven bolt directly in the side of the chuck. These are almost always painfully obvious, since the bolt shows on the side of the chuck or a base-coller... To reference the video, there's a collar on Kats-Moses' drill-press right above his chuck, but it's there to protect shaft, and to help with re-installing or upgrading the chuck in size... The black dot on the side of it is probably the same kind of allen-drive bolt I'm talking about, and looks similar enough that you can understand what I'm talking about. IF your Press DOES have an "end-bolt", you can now understand a new importance for NOT "bottoming out" drill bits in the thing when working... Of course, a dab of silicone can help protect the bolt, too... but regular maintenance and checking up on it is also important... It's easy for bits being shoved into wood and other materials to beat on those bolts, and that's probably why the friction-fit method became as popular as it is... In any case, if you don't see the obvious allen bolt sticking out the side of the chuck... I'd sprits away with the PB Blaster and start banging, myself... Being easy AND using a proper mallet rather than a hardened metal hammer is going to serve you well, and they do make these for WORK... so it's not exactly a china doll. Relax, breathe, and carry on. I believe you can get there from here. ;o)

@@gnarthdarkanen7464 thank you for an amazing answer and taking the time to explain. This will benefit me and hopefully many others!

@@rhuynh Only glad to see it might help... I've refurbished a few old tools... and it can get beyond frustrating. Everyone is ALWAYS welcome! ;o)