Drill Sharpening using the four facet method 

This jig seems to be a little complicated to adjust and use. I prefer the Tormek DBS-22 jig made for 4 facet sharpening I bought, and it's a lot easier and more practical to use. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KqcMTxrIoPY.html

" it's a lot easier and more practical to use" Have you used both? If not, then as an "Engineer" you should know that you do not have the experience required to make that statement. If you have used both, then a fair comparison would be to list the pros and cons of each, including the price. The Tormek jig costs $400 CAD and would need to be mounted on a Tormek grinder at a cost of $900 CAD. For a total cost of $1,300. The HH jig can be made for about $2 worth of scrap steel and his simple grinding rest can be made for about $5 worth of scrap steel. I've made both and can verify that they are capable of producing a drill bit that performs very well. Certainly much better than the original drill bits I was using and better than the 2 Drill Doctors I have. I cannot however compare it to the Tormek since I have no experience with it. But I can state that the sharpened drill bits produced by the HH jig and rest, look very much like the pictures on the link you provided. For a Hobbyist this information is invaluable and much appreciated. For a production shop, this may not be the best solution ..... but I'm sure Harold is not providing this information for the betterment of commercial operations and that is aim is for the betterment and assistance to hobby machinists, world wide. THANK YOU HAROLD!!!!!!!!!!

question answered further in the video.. thanks

Thanks for the question Bill. First we have to take into account that the chisel of a drill sharpened by the most common method removes the metal by a scraping action and therefore needs a lot of pressure to push the drill through the workpiece. The drilling machine must also have sufficient power for the task. Also, take note that the cutting edge on the helix will be attempting to pull the drill through the workpiece, therefore, the pressure needed is almost entirely a result of the drill having a chisel end. However, a drill sharpened by the four facet method has a a pointed end resulting in it starting, and then drilling, the part much more easily. So, yes, it is normal to drill a hole in one go, but with one overriding requirement, that is, has the machine sufficient power for the size of drill being used. With that information in mind can I suggest that you view the video again, as when I say “pointed end” it is a little more complex than that. Also, visit my website here www.homews.co.uk/page360.html where there is much more information on the four facet method than I can give here. Harold

You can drill pretty much any size hole without a pilot hole, it is just a matter of machine rigidity and power. For "normal" ground drills a divot is needed, as in use a spotting drill to get your hole location. And as Harold pointed out (no pun intended), the chisel is like shoving a flat headed screwdriver into the metal and because it doesn't cut, it requires quite a lot of force to push it in. But with a 4 facet grind there is less chisel and thus less power needed. One could even grind a little cutting angle on the chisel edge to get it even more easier to cut.

It's just a bench grinder, but Harold has trued the shafts on his lathe and mounted the grinding wheels on custom arbors so they can be swapped out without losing true. He covers this in detail in his excellent book "Milling, a complete course". Also in the book are instructions for the advanced grinding rest. His website is very thorough as well.

Obrigado Harold

Sorry Michael St John but you have obviously missunderstood some of my comments throughout this video, as eliminating the chisel is exactly what I have done. However, there is more to the result than this as the chisel is replaced by a pointed end which you do not mention. One advantage of this is that drills can start without using a centre punch. Can I please suggest you carefully study my drawings, particularly the second copy of the "Primary Clearance Ground Correctly" drawing, which highlights the pointed end with an arrow. For a good example of the final results, ignore the two drills being compared and look at the end of the drill clamped in the jig. Harold Hall