I works as a South Korean military driver and drives a five-ton truck (K-711) that is licensed in South Korea, the M813 truck. I laughed because the shifting parts were so similar. I learn a lesson by watching you drive.
Not needed, but greatly desired. Lately I've been doing some gear splitting, trying to get good at it. It helps tremendously. Although you lose the deadspot, you gain a really long shift time.
Brilliant work as usual man I’ve been a subscriber of yours for a while and I love your truck will you please do more driving videos of it cause I can’t get enough of that Cummins it sounds amazing stay safe man have a good one😢😊
The 813 was probably the most reliable vehicle of any type ever fielded by the US military. The 923s couldn’t even come close to touching its record for not breaking down and ease of maintenance.
100% agree with this. My unit was a mix of 812's & 945's (float bridge engr) The 812's broke less often, and were easier to maintain due to their simplicity
I own one of these and the only thing I would change is a complete disc brake conversion or front disc rear drum set up and change the master cylinder to a separated fluid bowl ! Other then that not much maybe back up camera and some led lights.
I live in a mostly flat area, so the brakes in my case are mostly fine. I have heard of people adding pinion brakes, which I find interesting. I do wish it had some more gearing. 5+2 is not enough in my opinion. It's a great truck though I love it.
4k - 10k range for M800 5tons, M900s (turbo diesels) are 8k - 15k territory. 4k for a junky truck that needs small fixes and a lot of cosmetic. 6k - 8k for a nice clean truck in running condition. Maybe some minor cosmetic blemishes. I paid $2,800 for mine but it didn't run.
@funkidyo Edited comment for more accuracy but; According to FB Market and Forums, they're close... Sure, you can spend 15k - 20k on an M900 series in really good condition, but the M800 5tons are 5k - 8k territory.
@mr.techaky7655 I guess all the groups im in, those guys are smoking the good stuff with the prices I see. I bought my m813a1 for 11k a few weeks ago. The m939 series, people price those even more ridiculous
@@zoidsfan77 LOL...yes, I've already created an account and pestered the other members to no end. I operated 2.5 and 5 tonners during the second half of my navy career but I was not involved in organizational level maintenance, so I have a lot to learn!
How do you like that truck? I've had a M36 deuce with the 20 foot bed. Seriously thinking about the benefits of a 5 ton version. Appreciate the video. Not many on here of the long wheel based trucks.
Who do have for insurance? Are you private or commercial? If private do you have any restrictions on use of truck and what is your monthly/yearly rate?
Sorry for the late reply. I love the truck, she has been real good. The long wheelbase makes it good for hauling vehicles. As for insurance, I have it registered historical (commercial historical technically). As a result I have private insurance, and it is very inexpensive. About $60 for 6-months with State Farm. I live in Ohio, and I know the laws and such differ considerably in other states.
Zoidsfan77 appreciate the reply. Love to see more videos in the future. There's a surplus outlet up your way that has 814's at a realistic and affordable price that I'll be checking out in a month or 2. Highly interested in owning a 814.
Super late reply, again. There is no mileage restriction, however because it is registered as an 'historical' vehicle, it is only supposed to be driven for historical purposes (car shows, meets, trips to mechanic, etc.). It just means I can't use it for everyday transportation. If I wanted to do that, then I unfortunately would have no other option than to get commercial plates and commercial insurance.
Air assisted hydraulic brakes? I wanna get one for my daily driver (adjust the governor to 85mph) and also use it for rescue as well so I'm gonna have to insulate the cab for sure and fix the heater. Have all air brakes, front and rear winch drum mounts. It'll be an interesting build for sure. If I find one that's a manual transmission, I think I might change it to a 9alleaton fuller manual.
Getting one up to 85MPH would be a large challenge. They are not limited by a speed govenor, but by their gearing. The axles have a reduction of around 6.44:1. In overdrive with the engine at 2100RPM the truck will do about 60MPH. To increase the speed you will need to install larger tires and probably an overdrive aux. transmission. You will have other things to worry about, such as high driveshaft RPM and the problems associated with that. Another thing is stopping the truck from such a high speed. You will need air brakes for sure. If you do manage to get one of these to 85MPH and live to tell about it, I would be very interested to hear about it. They are cool trucks, but they are slow. Those low gears really make them unstoppable at low speeds.
For this transmission it isn't necessary (except to downshift into 1st gear), but it does make it easier. The benefit is that the syncros in the transmission have a lower differential speed when making a gearchange and thusly shift more easily.
Thanks for the tip, I will have to try it. I'm pretty sure first and rev aren't synchronized so I don't go into first unless at a complete stop but I didn't know the double clutching helps getting into first. Got a 71 m35a2 love it
That 6453 Spicer transmission in the M800 series truck doesn’t need to be double shifted. That transmission has synchronizers from 2-5. All your doing is putting premature wear on the bearing by doing that. Also....learn how to split the transfer from high to low and visa versa on that truck. Low-1-2-3-4-5..high-4-5 The switch is around 30 mph typically
@@ForestxWalker06 , I own three 800’s. When you double clutch a synchronized transmission it puts double the amount of wear on the synchronizer bands. First gear from a stop isn’t synchronized as most older styled heavy transmissions aren’t that have pto ability. It keeps the bands from overheating while the pto air-clutch would be disengaged. Imagine a wrecker or dump truck. Once the synchro bands are completely worn then double clutching will have to happen. However floating the transmission between gears is tough on this truck because the gear ratios are so tall. Also the throwout bearing and forks are a real pain to change in this truck as really heavy equipment has to be used that most collectors just don’t have available to them. The best way is an “A” frame trolly crane that is used inside the cab to remove the transmission from these trucks. I have tried every other way and have concluded that the Army manual way is typically the best. Good luck!
@@ForestxWalker06 no problem. If you own the truck and need to find original part numbers or information...I have all 21 manuals for these trucks....even the really hard ones to find. I can copy and email you.
I'm 15 and am going to be getting a 5ton for my daily driver. I know they don't have the greatest mpg, but I don't care about the mileage. As long as it gets me to point a to point b, then I'm fine.
@@gameshistory5644 Very rarely, if ever. It is pretty forgiving. It's difficult to explain without the actual experience. I would recommend getting some seat time with a manual transmission car. Once you get over the initial intimidation, it will make sense as to what I mean. Eventually it will just be something you don't even think about.
@@danepatterson8785 I drive it and tinker with it as a hobby. Occasionally I use it to transport other projects. I could imagine though that after a while it would get tiresome.
You are correct, you don't need to, exept for first gear. I prefer to double clutch it, as most heavy truck transmission manufacturers suggest you do, even though they have syncros on every gear.
You can literally double clutch any vehicle with a Manual Transmission.It just depends on the Vehicle itself on how it operates and what you are even doing.
