Drum Sander - Trials And Tribulations Using Old Plans For A Shop Built Sander

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Shop Built Drum Sander - A modification to an old set of plans for a tool originally designed to be powered by a table saw motor. I used flange bearings instead of pillow block bearings, a dedicated 1/3 HP 1725 RPM motor and a push-feed table (instead of the original design conveyor feeder). Drum is 5 inch diameter, drum speed is ~1100 RPM and it has a usable width of 15.5 inches.

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24 сен 2011

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Комментарии : 140

@deanrichards9541 7 лет назад

Thanks Ronald. I have been researching and designing for a week and just came across your video. That is perfect for my needs. I am getting into making small decorative boxes and cutting boards with my newly build CNC router and just need the drum sander to dress the timber first. Perfect job and explanation of drum size, RPM etc. I was going to make a conveyor belt but I think I will forget this after your comments. Maybe later if I find i am in a production line environment. Thanks again

@SteveFrenchWoodNStuff 11 лет назад

Well done, Walter. I actually came across this plan a week or so ago and been considering building the unit. Like you, I don't like the idea of using my table saw to drive the sander. I too planned to make it self contained. I appreciate that you shared the fact that the feed system isn't all it's cracked up to be. Good video, great build. Thank you very much for the information and food for thought.

@skymaster547 8 лет назад

Hey thanks Ron. I really appreciate your being blunt about the reality of the pain of switching between the two tools. You just may have convinced me to rethink my plans for the table saw version. I know that I can become impatient about like situations as these and I do use my table saw quite a bit. I can almost hear myself cursing now, "why didn't I listen to Ron's advice?" I guess I was leaning toward the design with the printable plans for each piece that needs to be cut, and was unable to find anything for the self contained version. It should be easy to figure out I guess. Thanks again!

@williamhayden7711 10 лет назад

Good stuff Ron, that sander is a beauty.

@RonaldWalters2010 13 лет назад

The original plans were ShopNotes Vol 15 Issue 86 published May 2006 titled “Build Your Own Thickness Sander” However, I hacked their plans quite a bit and what I ended up with is quite a bit different. Read the construction article on woodgears.ca available 9-26-11

@CarlosGlatzos976 9 лет назад

Great machine, like it very much. Really need to have one, too. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Carlos

@mikekling53 7 лет назад

Great job. I will definitely be build one using yours as a model.

@RonaldWalters2010 13 лет назад

I did consider that and tried reversing the belt. I also measured the circumferences both sides. The belt looked good.

@markcoates6934 4 года назад

great video, thank you. I have a buffing set up with a motor weight tensioning the belt and I found that the weight will warp the shaft is left unused for a period of time, after replacing the motor I now remove the belt from the motor when done

@sammas8103 8 лет назад

excellent demo and great construction sir. Thank you

@rogerwatson5730 4 года назад

Excellent example of the use of wood to design build . I refer to my table saw as my drafting board

@beesmongeese2978 Год назад

I like how you took the time to paint it and make it neat looking.

@RonaldWalters2010 Год назад

Well thank you. I appreciate you noticing that! Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

@SuperBardley 11 лет назад

Ron, nice, well done vid! Thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge.

@wilsonstevens1535 9 лет назад

Thanks, I have been thinking of building one, and you have some good ideas to consider. Appreciate your time and thoughts.

@Theallis1961 11 лет назад

Ronald, Thanks for the info. I am really excited to get going with this project.

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

Table saw. There are a few more photos in the construction article. Click on the link in the description for this video.

@skymaster547 8 лет назад

I recently built one of these that does run off of the table saw arbor because I have "0" room for a heavier unit. I made the conveyor rollers out of PVC and sprayed them with Flex Seal, a rubberized spray coating. The belt doesn't slip on them and they seem to track well enough. It beats feeding the work by hand. There is a RU-vid video on Flex Seal for more info on that.

@othellolagkage 11 лет назад

Beautiful work!

@wintersnot 12 лет назад

Smart and clean design, Ronald! I'm inspired. I was thinking about the drive belt. I believe they are usually made from a nylon and rubber. Something that provides a little variable in tention to either side. Great job! Thanks for sharing that!

@niqhtt 8 лет назад

Yours sounds so solid. Some of rattling monstrosities I've seen on here are more than I could bring myself to use.

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

@Dmhlcmb 13 лет назад

Nice. You and Matthias Wandel use the same colors, haha. Excellent build quality as usual. Thanks Ronald.

@RonaldWalters2010 12 лет назад

Good question. Hopefully you build it fairly close. I’ve only used it on the highest (or thinnest) setting. Woodworking isn’t an exact science so if you’re within a few thousandths you’re probably close enough. You want the sandpaper just touching the wood… thin cuts. The hook & loop sand paper has a bit of cushion to it (due to centrifugal force) so feed the wood through in one direction, turn the wood 108 degrees and feed it through again to averaged out any difference in thickness.

@RonaldWalters2010 12 лет назад

eBay - “Brevel Model 703 Small Reduction Gear Motor” by “bestboxman”. Shaded Pole induction motor 183:1 reduction 19 RPM shaft speed. I used a computer cooling fan blade. Chain drive used 13T and 24T sprockets for 10.3 RPM roller speed. Construction article at woodgears.ca - reader projects

@D3N1S1979 12 лет назад

bellissimi lavori, complimenti, sei un mago!

@Synthetic11 13 лет назад

Very nicely done Ron....

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

I copied a process from Matthias Wandel (woodgears dot ca) and painted it with a latex paint and then painted that with a polyurethane varnish. Lowe’s Olympic Premium Flat Base 5 72005, 130-2Y7.5, 107-1Y5, 113-2.5 which I think describes the mixed color. Water base polyurethane on top of that to make it shine and give it a durable surface. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching!

@chummel123 11 лет назад

beautiful mate!

@daviddickmeyer5231 7 лет назад

Nice build sir!

@DavidE-ml3fh 11 лет назад

Thanks, I will give it a try.

@MaDeuce80 12 лет назад

I've been thinking about making a drum sander for myself. I'm planning on using parts from a treadmill exercise machine. Sometimes if your lucky you get one for free on craigslist. When I get things going I'll be sure to share it with you.

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

Dimensions of my sander are pretty much the same as shown on your plans. The upper ends of the sides are the same except the lower portion, which were made taller to clear the self-contained motor. The size and mounting configuration of your motor will have some effect on the dimensions of the sides and how tall you wish to make the sander. My solid table is the same size as the adjustable conveyor belt table shown on the plans… I just made it one solid piece instead of the adjustable halves.

@RonaldWalters2010 10 лет назад

Velcro mounted sandpaper is a bit cushioned. Keep rotating the wood on subsequent passes through the sander. Many very light passes works best and the sandpaper lasts longer. The larger the piece, the greater the measured variation. You could shim the bearing on one side or the other to narrow it down, but then when you change sandpaper that may change again, chasing your tail a bit perhaps. I have made several quite large diameter clock wheels and it certainly has been accurate enough for that.

@yonahjohn2384 7 лет назад

fantastic video it's very educative and so comprehensive

@RonaldWalters2010 7 лет назад

Glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! Ron

@josedavidmendoza4700 11 лет назад

very nice job and good video, congratulations

@jeremywasserstrass3510 4 года назад

A tip for those who watch this and want to build their own with a power feed. Use smooth metal, plastic or wood rollers, the inner tube he put on the rollers had too much grip on the belt and did not allow the belt to track.

@Elyasafshweka 10 лет назад

I almost finished my drum sander, based on matthias plans, but i have a problem that while sanding the drum for making it even and true, it started slipping on the shaft. My drum is made of high quality 17mm birch plywood. I glued every 5pcs together and left 1mm gap. I was relayoling on friction to hold the drum on shaft. Big mistake. So Can you explain more about how to attach the drum to the shaft? Now that its all assembled already... How did you drill 1/8 hole in the 5" drum? I dont think there is a drill bit that big with such a small diameter! Help would be highly appriciated.

@RonaldWalters2010 10 лет назад

Matthias was probably relying on glue to hold the discs to the metal shaft. I don’t recall this being mentioned in the article. They make drill bits long enough, however your aim may not be good enough to hit the center of the metal shaft (those bits can wander). A good tool supply will have long reach or aircraft drill bits. However if the groups of discs are spinning free on the shaft I would try to work them off the shaft one-by-one so you can accurately cross-drill the shaft. Since you have a gap between groups of discs you will need to have an engagement pin for each group. Use short steel pins to engage a slot ground in the disc groups. Use epoxy to hold the pins in the discs upon reassembly. Alternatively, you could ask Matthias for his suggestion since it is his plan.

@RonaldWalters2010 13 лет назад

I don’t know. This is my first drum sander and still new. The Drum pushes the stock down. Finish is a function of slow steady feed. Vary the feed rate, you will see it as an uneven surface. Light cuts, slow steady feed and it seems to work pretty well. End-For-End the stock every pass. On narrow pieces I felt a little chatter but have not seen it in the surface. Maybe the sand paper needs to be rewound - a little stretch on the hooks? Possibly drum sand first, then finish with a random orbital.

@valdecirdud 12 лет назад

Felicito por seu belissímo trabalho. Vou tentar fazer a minha aqui pelo Brasil. Parabéns!

@MrPortdaven 12 лет назад

hey ron, awesome stuff, with that sand paper belt that was loose on one side and tight on the other, thats down to manufacturers error, where they havent lined up the join properly. but anyways thats still an awesomely finished homemade machine.

@luthiermarciano 9 лет назад

Parabéns pelo seu trabalho, muito bem elaborado e calculado, gostei muito.

@skymaster547 8 лет назад

Well, I'm with you on the Baltic birch. That sounds a whole lot stronger. The only reason I THINK I'd prefer the table saw version is because of the very limited space in my garage and the infrequent use the sander is likely to see. I have the resources to build the self contained version (including the motor), just not the room to store it as easily.Thank you for your reply.

@RonaldWalters2010 8 лет назад

+endrot1 Footprint will be the same either way, height and weight would be different. Only have to get out of sequence once or twice, needing the table saw again and then the sander again to make you a believer. :-) I don't use mine that often either but is sure is nice to just plug it in and turn it on. And No, I never bothered any further with the conveyor fiasco. The push through feed is fine as long as you are careful. It come come back at you pretty quick.

@Junkboy888 10 лет назад

Nice video and sander. I made a smaller one, after a Failed attemp of a power feed. Same problem because of the belts are not made for that purpose. I even tries making some crowned rollers.

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

Oneida 1.5 HP Cyclonic Cartridge Dust Collector returning air to the shop through a Thimble Plenum with 4 filter tubes and is rated at 750 CFM @ 8” of water.

@icarusfx84 12 лет назад

Awesome video, have you tried removing the rubber bicycle tires from the rollers. I would suspect they are shifting and that is what is causing your track to keep moving. When you straighten the tire the rubber would be thinner on one end more than the other. This added by the fact that the rubber would roll around the wood itself also changing its position. If you haven't already, maybe take them off to see how it goes. Just a though, hope it works.

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

Do a Google search for ShopNotes Magazine. Then look for Vol 15 Issue 86 which was the original project, but then I made several modifications.

@RonaldWalters2010 13 лет назад

I’ll probably try another power feed conveyor one day but it certainly won’t be to the original design for this sander. I tried making a temporary trial crown on the rollers using staggered layers of tape, which didn’t seem to help either. I just think Murphy was having his way with this conveyor.Probably flange bearings instead of bushings, crowned rollers with individual adjustments on both ends of one roller and one-piece rigid sides for the conveyor. Construction article at woodgears.ca

@MrGuitarbike 12 лет назад

I built a homemade belt sander, I had the same problem with belt tracking. Wood is very hard to use to make a good belt tensioner.

@mtabernig 4 года назад

You had the same problem I had with my conveyor belt. However I was able to fix it and very happy with it. My table is solid however the rollers are on bearings at the end of the table . One roller at the end is the driver roller, at the other ens, the closest to the start, is the driven and adjuster toller; the one that also adjust the runup. I do nor know the effect of trying to pivot 1/2/o the table of just the roller.... perhaps that was your problem...I do not know. I can send you picyures if you like.

@RonaldWalters2010 4 года назад

Thank you for the offer but that was several years ago and I have no intention of changing it now. Actually it works pretty well just as it is.

@madwilliamflint 13 лет назад

That's spectacular! I'm intrigued by the power feed problem. Any other thoughts on that? It looks like the structure and design would almost allow you to swap the drum out for a planer attachment. I imagine a couple things would have to change.

@DavidE-ml3fh 11 лет назад

Ron, Awesome thickness sander! What brand and color is the paint you used on your thickness sander. I love it and can not find a match. Is it spray or brush? David

@MrGuitarbike 12 лет назад

I need this for guitar making.

@rheine3 10 лет назад

My conveyor belts are crowned in the center. several thousandths. I think that is the secret. Belts like to climb so that eliminates the problem..

@baccus61 10 лет назад

Just what I was going to say Reine3. :-) Most of the old flat belt drive stuff was like that.

@MrJKCampione 11 лет назад

Did you ever try putting a very slight crown on the belt drive rollers? That is generally how the manufactured units are built. Not a noticeable crown, just ever so slight. Helps the belt to track.

@brianweekley5700 5 лет назад

Beautiful build! Question about the pivot for the table...Once you set the table height and tighten the back knobs, how can you easily tilt the front of the table to adjust the thickness? Any trick to how that pivot works or is just friction and you can still tilt the front to adjust the thickness? Thanks.

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

I think you need to watch the video again. The table pivots on the two back knobs which do not need to be tightened as they are the pivot. Loosen the two front knobs (which run in a slot). Raise or lower the table with the elevation screw (in my case a threaded wood dowel) then tighten the two front knobs. Fine adjustment is possible. You just want the sandpaper to just skim the surface of the wood, it is a sander not a planer. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe!

@brianweekley5700 5 лет назад

Ronald Walters I mistakenly thought the back pivot/knobs fit in a slot like the front ones. I think it was the large oval shaped Formica that threw me off. Looking closer, maybe you just have a few holes the pivots can be set in instead? That makes more sense now. Thanks.

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

Correct. The knobs (front & back) have large fender washers under them and the oval shaped Formica keeps the washers from rubbing on the paint. The rear holes provide a series of different clearance ranges.

@jonq8714 10 лет назад

I'd love to hang out with you in your shop...

@leckersuppe123 12 лет назад

Hi! I like your sander a lot, great work! There is one thing that i dont understand: you have star knobs on both the infeed and outfeed side and i guess the knobs on the outfeed side are to lower the table to be able to push thicker stock through. but if thats correct, how do you do the alignment of the table to the drum to get a a consistent thickness over the width of the stock? Isn't that something you have to do every time you lower the table with te outfeed-sided knobs then?

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

I think the H&L sandpaper rolls and the self-adhesive hook material (for the drum) came from supergrit-dot-com The sandpaper is manufactured with the velcro loop material already on it.

@phillipcurtsmith1118 10 лет назад

I see. I quite like your design and execution. I am curious as to if you think building a surface planer is feasible. Matthias' construction of a jointer would suggest that it is. Have you ever considered building a surface planer?

@phillipcurtsmith1118 10 лет назад

I understand that this is not a surface planer, but I am interested in how consistent a thickness you have been able to achieve on sanded work. For instance, on the left and right side of your workpiece, how level a cut will this machine make?

@DavidE-ml3fh 11 лет назад

Sounds good. One more question for you. I can not find the sand paper rolls at Grainger. Where do you get the rolls of sandpaper and does it come with the "loop" velcro all ready installed? Thanks for taking the time to answer my seemingly endless questions. Construction is going well.

@andremlanca 8 лет назад

Hi Ron! Fantastic work. May i ask you, just for a reference, what is the height and width of your sander's side pieces? What is the maximum thickness that you can feed her? Best regards!

@RonaldWalters2010 8 лет назад

+André Lança Side width 17". Table top to drum axle center 20". Table top to top of drum guard 24". This will probably take a 4"+ thickness but I don't think I have ever fed anything thicker than 1". You could build it to accept whatever thickness you need.

@Dmhlcmb 13 лет назад

What are you doing now, Ronald?, Oh I'm sanding my sander. Haha.

@Theallis1961 11 лет назад

Ronald, I have really enjoyed your video. I am a luthier and I need a thickness sander but I can't afford to buy one. Can you tell me where I can find a set of these plans?

@truman289 11 лет назад

Hi Ron I have those plans in the shop notes magazine been wanting to make the same modifications as you did, I thought I wouldn't like to attach it to my table saw. would you be able to share some of your measurements I really like the way you made yours thank you Rob

@RonaldWalters2010 12 лет назад

I think the H&L sandpaper rolls and the self adhesive loop material came from supergrit-dot-com

@RonaldWalters2010 10 лет назад

No, I have not. Matthias took an old plainer and used it to make his jointer. To make a plainer you would need a head and knives, not something I would be inclined to try to make.

@DavidE-ml3fh 11 лет назад

Ron, I am having challenges finding a straight 3/4" solid steel rods, but I can find very straight 3/4" solid aluminum rods. Will the solid aluminum be strong enough? David

@skymaster547 8 лет назад

I'm just curious of what tool you used to put the slots in the formica washers, a router or Dremel?

@RonaldWalters2010 8 лет назад

I used a 3/4 inch Forstner bit on the drill press (very carefully from both sides) to just scribe the Formica on both ends. You just want the outside rim of the bit to cut the Formica, not the main cutter or chipper. Clamp the Formica to a backer board. If the bit grabs and that Formica starts swinging around on the drill press, it could easily remove a body part. Then cut the straight parts on the scroll saw. Clean up with a fine file & sandpaper (or gently with a Dremel). Rough cut the outside dimensions on the scroll saw and gently clean up on the disc sander. Formica is pretty brittle so the scroll saw cuts need to be with a fine tooth blade, slow and easy. Thanks for watching! Ron

@AllanFonroques 7 лет назад

Hello, very great job ! Do you have the plans for build it please ?

@RonaldWalters2010 7 лет назад

This was started with a set of plans for the ShopNotes Drum Sander which I converted to use its own dedicated motor. Review the description for this video and go to the link for the construction article for more information. You would need to come up with your own set of ShopNotes plans and then modify accordingly. Thanks for watching!

@duffyandpaula 12 лет назад

I built the original one from ShopNotes a few years ago. I like your mod. I was just thinking of modifying mine with a motor as well. I would like to put on the hook and loop, where did you get the loop material. I have the same problem with the feed. Maybe I'll pull the belts off and try without.

@1airgforce1 9 лет назад

Hi there, Great video.... What direction is the sander going. Is it feeding in on it self... spinning towards you and pulling the wood in on that smooth feeding table.

@RonaldWalters2010 9 лет назад

1airgforce1 A drum sander always turns towards the feed (otherwise it would be like a baseball pitching machine). Therefore, you need to push the wood all the way thought the sander with a push block to completely clear the sanding drum... or very carefully control the wood as the drum returns it to you.

@1airgforce1 9 лет назад

Thank You very much....

@m081779 13 лет назад

What is to keep the material from chattering, or from lifting into the drum and getting an uneven surface? I have seen lots of plans for drum sanders without pressure rollers and have always wondered this.

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

Aluminum would not be a good choice. Cold Rolled Steel shaft should be readily available and it should be fairly straight unless someone drove over it with a forklift or truck (very possible). Another possibility is drill rod or drill steel. Also stainless steel rod. Keep looking… check the machine shops.

@chreg1 11 лет назад

Are we sure that feeding stock 'with' the rotation is a good idea? I would hav thought that pushing against the rotation is far safer?

@mikesmicroshop4385 5 лет назад

The wide belt you had was defective and was cone shaped, there is no other reason that you could not have tracked the belt if your rollers were symmetrical and parallel.

@MOHANMSHARMA 3 года назад

great and beautiful buil. where I can found the plan for this sander ?

@RonaldWalters2010 3 года назад

Asked and answered in the comments under this video.

@truman289 11 лет назад

I am going to draw them up on the computer and cut the parts on my cnc gantry router when I get some time

@marknantais8283 9 лет назад

Great video.Where can I get the plans?

@RonaldWalters2010 9 лет назад

***** As already stated in the comments, the original plans were ShopNotes Vol 15 Issue 86 published May 2006 titled “Build Your Own Thickness Sander.” However, I hacked their plans quite a bit and what I ended up with is quite a bit different. Read the construction article on woodgears.ca (link in this video description).

@velcroman11 12 лет назад

It just dawned on me. Did you check to see if the rollers where axially parallel? If the rollers are not ABSOLUTELY parallel (twisted) there would be nothing you could do to get the belt to run true. Sure was a bonzer job though.

@skymaster547 8 лет назад

Hi Ron, I am starting to build the table saw version of the drum sander. It is disappointing about the conveyor so unless you have found a remedy, mine will be hand feed. My question is, are the lag bolts for the pillow blocks strong enough to weather the test of time and vibration when screwed into the MDF without any additional reinforcement. Do you think some yellow glue in the holes would help strengthen the mounting or would it increase the chance of the MDF breaking if the need to remove the blocks arose? Thank you!

@RonaldWalters2010 8 лет назад

+endrot1 I would never use lag bolts in MDF. The only MDF used in my sander was for the drum. Everything was made of Baltic Birch Plywood. I did not use pillow block bearings. I used flange bearings. So basically I used the plan "ideas" but made it stronger and better (I think). I strongly suggest it have its own motor. Using this on your table saw will be a general pain in the ass. You should probably follow the link in the video description to my construction article. Good luck!

@larrybe2900 8 лет назад

Re: tracking A good way for a belt to track is to offer a modest crown on the shafts that the belt runs on. Ronald if you still have access to the unit try wrapping one layer of duct tape around one or both shafts in the middle 1/4 to 1/3. This might offer enough crown to help allow the belt to track straight.

@RonaldWalters2010 8 лет назад

This sander was built 5 years ago and that belt feed mechanism is long gone. I had tried several times and to different extents wrapping tape to build crowned roller(s) but that did not work for me. Thanks for watching... and your comment!

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

I suggest you try the latex paint and the polyurethane on a piece of scrap first.

@healthman777 9 лет назад

beautiful machine!! :) I am about to build one ... would you change anything if you were going to build it again today!

@RonaldWalters2010 9 лет назад

Jim Coyle I guess there are always a few things to improve. For the drum I would probably use particle board instead of MDF and every few segments leave a slight gap for expansion (1 or 2 mm) which would require placing a few more cross pins in the shaft to keep the segments from possibly spinning. Even though I have seen some cracks at the glue joints of the MFD discs it has not been an issue. Using particle board would make it more difficult to initially true the drum to the table. I would still like a powered belt feed. Pushing the stock through manually with the tilting table works pretty well and since this does not get used all the time I am pretty happy with it as is. It comes in really handy when you occasionally need it and once built you will continue to find more reasons to use it. The fine dust off this drum sander will be like talcum powder and will tend to plug up your dust collector filter, so plan accordingly. The dust is fine enough that it easily gets past the cyclone. Finally, use it as a sander and not a planer... many very light passes, rotating the stock and flipping it over will work best and the abrasive will last longer. If you sand only on one side the wood will get hot and start to cup. Enjoy!

@fooooootube 4 года назад

@@RonaldWalters2010 You made mention in the video of a Matthias Wandel article the talked about the need for spacers in the drum. I went looking for it and was unable to locate it. Can you share a URL to that article?

@RonaldWalters2010 4 года назад

I couldn't find it either. That was a while ago. Now I'm not sure if it was in an article of his or he and I were just talking about it. You want a few SPACES between some of the discs not spacers. Read my comment just above yours where I go into this.

@MOHANMSHARMA 3 года назад

What is the distance between center of driver and driven pully? Second if you have drilled holes for flange bearing in body, so why you putted shim under flange bearing.

@RonaldWalters2010 2 года назад

If this comment was left 11 months ago, I have no idea why I am just now seeing it. Distance between pulley centers… sorry I don’t know and since I recently had knee surgery I am currently unable to measure it. The wood block under the flange bearing supports the flange bearing. Use of a shim between the wood block and the flange bearing is a way to fine tune the drum to be parallel to the table.

@MOHANMSHARMA 2 года назад

@@RonaldWalters2010 get well soon Ron. I am also building this sander, i assumed the dimension from your vedio, will show you as completed.

@SQ_og 5 лет назад

I have 40, 14" redwood boards with old white paint on on side. They are 5/4 thick. Would this work for getting the paint off, minimizing dust?

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

Paint tends to plug abrasives. Using a plainer to first skim the paint off and then a drum sander would be a better approach.

@SQ_og 5 лет назад

@@RonaldWalters2010 You did a great job on this.

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

Thank you!

@PatGandy 8 лет назад

Hi Ronald my name is PatGandy. I just watched "Matthias Wandel" on his website make wheels for his bandsaw. He said "and I believe him" that drive belts will travel along a wheel and center itself at the highest point along the weels service. I started thinking "a dangerous thing for me usually" but I put his words to your belt sannders belt not tracking right and thought perhaps if you could create a curve along the surface of the drum where the center woul be bigger in the middle it would tack to the center for you. Watch his band saw build youtube episode. pg

@RonaldWalters2010 8 лет назад

+Pat Gandy You may have also noticed I posted this video on Matthias's website over 4 years ago. Construction article: woodgears.ca/reader/walters/drum_sander.html Tried that several different ways and none of them worked for this wide belt. Got tired of messing with it and did it this way. Thanks for watching. Ron

@Edward-69 9 лет назад

Hello, what is the power of the motor? thanks)

@RonaldWalters2010 9 лет назад

Эдуард Петерс Motor 1/3 HP 1725 RPM 115V 60 Hz - - - 5 inch diameter drum speed approximately 1100 RPM

@RonaldWalters2010 11 лет назад

The direction of feed is AGAINST the rotation. Watch again.

@RonaldWalters2010 12 лет назад

That may work for long flat boards, but for shorter sections and irregular pieces (such as clock wheels) the drive wheel probably wouldn’t stay engaged. Also, you need to feed material through in different positions every pass to even out the wear on the sandpaper. There are commercial drives similar to what you are describing (called power feeders) and are used for feeding material through shapers. Look at grizzly dot com and search for power feeders.

@SQ_og 5 лет назад

What is the hole size of the rod? Is it threaded or solid? I am getting ready to do my glue up of the circles. What do you suggest for the 1mm spacer material?

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

Drum is on a 3/4" solid steel rod. The 1mm spacer material is air... it's a 1mm air gap. You may find the information on the following page useful. woodgears.ca/reader/walters/drum_sander.html Matthias Wandel on woodgears.ca has some information on drum sanders.

@SQ_og 5 лет назад

Thanks I get it. A router bit works good for large circle. I am not comfortable with that method for small circles. I may cut the circles with a jig saw and use your sanding jig.

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

You basically only need to get them pretty close to being a circle. After the drum sander is functional you glue sandpaper to a piece of plywood and let the drum sander sand itself true to the bed before attaching the hook material.

@SQ_og 5 лет назад

I did what you said, cut out glued and roughed out the five sections of circles. Did you cut a slot in the 3/4" rod for the piano wire?

@RonaldWalters2010 5 лет назад

I drilled holes for the piano wire at right angles in the 3/4" rod everyplace I wanted to lock the discs to the 3/4" rod. I slotted one disc to go around each piano wire, then sandwiched the other discs on either side of that one.

@RonaldWalters2010 12 лет назад

surpluscenter-dot-com located in Lincoln, Nebraska has a fairly good selection. I purchased a 10 ft length of roller chain and the box is marked ANSI 25-1RX 10ft and the 5/16 shaft sprockets were 9 tooth 13 tooth and 19 tooth. If you don’t find it let me know and I will try to find the paperwork but that was a couple of years ago so no guarantees. Ron

@velcroman11 12 лет назад

I could NEVER get the belt on my walking machine to track straight. I finally paid (bad word) a walking machine mechanic to set up the walking belt. Took him all of 5 minutes. Still don't know how he did it. Don't you hate than?

@georgesgodin6214 11 лет назад

Ron you should try your conveyor belt on your sander it would be the perfect tool i have been using mine for close to 4 years now i do a lot of sanding and i did not change the belt yet those belt wont track at low speed they are made to go fast Look at my video georges drum sander 2 and you will see my new adition

@WINATRAGET1 6 лет назад

@dougshaw9701 Год назад

have plans?

@RonaldWalters2010 Год назад

No plans. Sorry. I generally build something like this from a few scribbled notes and hand sketches which end up being thrown away. This is my modification of the ShopNotes March 2006 Issue 86 Thickness Sander, which is available or you can read it online. Google it. Thanks for watching. Please subscribe! That is what keeps this channel going. Ron

@GuoShushan 4 года назад

where's the plans

@RonaldWalters2010 4 года назад

I think it was "Shop Notes Thickness Sander". Google it.

@user-co1rq7vk8n 6 месяцев назад

про транспортёрную ленту! = изначально неправильно порезанная и приклеенная, в стыке надо делать зазор!

@RonaldWalters2010 5 месяцев назад

I thought the same thing... but I measured and inspected it and all looked good. I tried turning the belt around which (if a fault with the belt) would cause it to track in the opposite direction but it made no difference. Then tried two other sanding belts of different manufacture and still had the same problem. Grrrrr! I guess it just was not meant to be. :-) Thanks for watching. Ron