As someone who uses both products on the daily, I find the drydex really clogs up the sanding sponges pretty quickly, causing the sanding process to take longer and a lot more elbow grease is needed to get the patch to a decent state. Also, with the drydex, sometimes it looks dry, it even lets you sand it nice, but then when it comes to painting it....oh look theres drydex on my paint roller...time for another patch. Great Vids good sir!
As a painter that does lots of apartment (fast in and out jobs) I do almost all my patches with 5 minute, even if there is extensive damage, patched in pieces of drywall, and multiple patches. I throw away a LOT of mud that is left over in my pan, however the fast dry time makes it worth it for me.
We used to use DryDex on all of our touch ups but we found that not only did it shrink a lot, it never dried hard like the setting type compound. After using a bunch of spackle brands, we found that the setting type compound works the best. For best results, we find that doing two coats works great. If time permits, a third tight skim with a drying type compound, will make your patch go from being excellent to outstanding. Sanding between coats and prime your patches before paint is highly recommend!
It took me an embarrassing long time to realize you can add water to spackle if it's too thick. Makes feathering the edges easier so may prevent the noticeable line.
Excellent point George, yet from my experience it doesn’t change the dynamics of being able to get a beautifully feathered in patch like you can with the drywall mud. Thoughts?
@@ytsux9259 Made in or packaged in America? My wife got a free sample of patching material from Amazon, it came from overseas if you get my drift, it qualified 100% as crap.
Weirdly coincidental timing: a family member had an emergency repair that needed tending to. My local was out of my normal AP drywall compound so I grabbed the pink stuff. Boy, it was junk. Thick, chunky. Turns white from pink before it is supposed to tricking you into thinking it's ready for working. It's weak, brittle, and is unpleasant to work and finish. From cursory research you can cut it with water, that might have helped. Thanks for sharing, as always!
I’m late to the party but anybody wondering that pink drydex stuff is excellent for nail holes in paint grade or mdf. If you need to repair a small area like in video buy “dap Alex plus spackling” it’s right next to the drydex on the aisle in store. Black lid blue label. That stuff is head and shoulders above pink stuff. Also if you have a decent sized repair just switch to 5min/20min hot mud always. Take FC tip when you tear drywall paper like video. It’s best to hit it with a sealing primer like video. The one i use is “pro 999” green can. Excellent sealer for drywall repairs. Just thought I would add. Love you FC.
If you plan on doing a lot of small mixes you might look into the small curved bottom pans. I think mine is a 10”, and the small size makes it easier to mix amounts as little as a couple table spoons, and the curved bottom makes sure you don’t lose the small amounts into the corners like you would a regular pan. It also scrapes out super easy.
When I was an apprentice finish carpenter I was with a big company doing cabinets at schools and hospitals, (which I hated by the way). Anyway, at the end of one job they had us digging post holes outside with a 2-man gasoline powered hole digger machine. WTF! It was not long after that I hired on with a smaller millwork/cabinet type company.
I wish they made little bags of the 15 or 45 minute mud as well. 5 minutes is too quick for the occasional user, and an 18lb bag would last me forever.
Spackle is great for small hole repairs but anything larger than that and that requires blending...lite weight drywall compound is the clear choice for any competent professional.
Painter (32 years, I hate to admit) here. While it's nice to see a carpenter who takes responsibility for his f*** ups the question you pose is similiar to, "Which is better: OSB or MDF?" The two fillers are not meant to be applied in the same situation. Excellent pro-tip on sealing the torn paper with shellac though! Love your channel!
Wow, good to know! Always wondered if I was doing something wrong with the DryDex because you can always tell, but I guess it is... what it is, gotta start using the mud :) Thanks for this!
Wish I would have watched this yesterday. Had a very similar repair to do. Got lazy and impatient and patched over some torn drywall paper using DryDex after sealing the paper in with primer. I did a super tight skim. 2 coats. Sanded it as flat as can be. Feathered the edges..... 3 coats of primer to seal it in amd build up texture to match the surrounding area. Then 2 thick coats of paint rolled on... and that "feathered" edge looks more like a ridge. So frustrating. Its obvious the DryDex swells up when you paint it. Im crossing my fingers itll look better after a couple days of drying. But i doubt it. Easy Sand Hot Mud for win. Shouldn't have been lazy.
I don't know why they don't sell small bags of 20minute in HD. I don't want to deal with 5 minute mud. Normally I do a whole wall, not one spot. If I'm doing full on hole repair, definitely not 5 minute. I just need more working time. I can see why the pros like the 5 minute though, for that super fast dry time.
The whole point of using the pink Drydex is so you don't have to use primer. It would have been better to compare the two without using primer on the Drydex side to see if it lives up to that standard.
Drydex is great for nail holes only for me. There’s a can right next to it on the aisle called “DAP Alex plus spackling” black lid and blue label. That stuff is the best for small patches. If you got decent size repair it’s 5min/20min hot mud all day.
I've been using drydex lately and I realized it kinda sucks..its very soft stuff and the paint doesn't seem to stick to it well. You can put a dent in it with your fingernail easily. Also it takes awhile to dry.
Never tried the pre mixed bucket mud cuz I figured it would shrink to much but I use the quick set mud all the time for painted trim. It sands way faster and definitely blends in better than using like wood putty. Wood putty and alot of spackles dont feather an edge nice just like he showed with the drydrex. It looks like a lump up close. Alot of them lie about there dry time and take longer than they claim also. Once the mud is touched up with paint it is sealed so it isn't going anywhere and dries super fast
😂I didn’t add anything there was just a bit of debris inside the can. I picked out any big chunks when it was rolled out. If it was a bigger area I would have screened the paint.
Just patched up a hole in bathroom and most times i would use the dep sparkle but today i used dry 20 minutes compound and it worked better and i can seal the bag and use it again without having it dried out. I would have used primer and light sanding before painting Trick is to add drywall mix multiple times and sand between layers and to give it 3 to 4 hours between each layer.
I have a tub/shower surround and it is old, but looks great and is in great shape. Unfortunately there are small nail holes from an old shower door on each end of the unit. I was thinking that a thin strip of plastic glued to each end to cover the holes might work and look like an added detail. What say you. thank you.
Thank you for the very helpful video. I've a silly question. At 4:02 it's clearly visible the difference between old and new paints. If it's done somewhere with a good light it will be noticeable. How can we fix this? So the old paint and new paint looks seamless.
That was paint from a different can. If possible you can use paint from the same can as was used originally, or the other option is repaint the wall. I just did it like this because I’m going to be repainting the bathroom shortly when I renovate it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Thank you for your reply! I was just wondering how this to be solved in general. Like for baseboards after nailing and patching them, walls, etc. I think it would be a good topic to share on RU-vid how to match the paint and make seamless transitions.
There are two really easy ways to make the paint look natural and matched without having the same can or repainting the whole wall. Way one is to get a pattern sponge and press paint a pattern along the bottom of the wall, thus making oddities look more normal. Way two is to give a small child a box of crayons and/or markers. Most people seem to be less accepting of these solutions than I think they should be tho
Drywall mix is not meant for holes, so I would not recommend using it for that purpose, it does not have the tinsel strength to hold, for example if someone punches a hole in your drywall and you use a patch, and use drywall mix, if anyone leans on that area they will fall though. its only meant for taping seems.
Can I mix in any type of container that would be smaller than what you are using (maybe a tupperwear product :) . I use the pink stuff and like it and I use windex to remove product from the tools I have used even my hands and it works well...........yes, I have been told not us use the sink. Thank you.
I had textured plaster walls- we paid someone to skim coat them smooth - except they didn’t pay careful attention to the edges along the baseboard and it looks bumpy and wrinkly. I’ve tried to use dry Dex spackle like three times - sanded it.. and each time it’s still bumpy…. Should I try joint compound ??
Have you tried the Drydex joint compound? I have tried the Drydex Spackle and moved to another brand of joint compound. I thought the Drydex Spackle did not go on as smooth or can be smoothed as well as joint compound.
I had a question the packaging for dry sec says it could cause cancer I live in a small mobile home room and I fixed a lot of nail holes in obviously gonna paint over it but is it safe to live in there (VERY LONG TERM) whole life? Is it safe?
In general no. Depending on the type of flooring some of the laminate woods are free floating and move. That movement will eventually cause sealant failure. I seal the bottom of the baseboards in bathrooms to stop moisture intrusion into the framing.
@@shawnr771 It makes sens but I have seen many recommendations. I thought about silicon (floor-baseboard) and acrylic (baseboard-wall) In terms of aesthetic I prefer no caulk. I don’t like floating floors either.
@@Lurker01 Well usually bathrooms are tile or linoleum. Very few are hardwoods or laminates. Many fewer are carpet. Although I have seen it several times. After doing numerous bathroom repairs and remodels over the years. In my opinion the homes that had sealed baseboards fared better than those that did not. I am a firm believer in a waterproofing membrane over any plywood in 2nd floor bathrooms.
