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I was a drywall finisher , hanger and texture guy for the better part of 25 years. Never in my life have I ever seen anyone tape angles before running the flats and butts. And if you're going to spend the money on an angle tool and a roller. You should at least invest in a banjo if you can't afford a bazooka. It's hard to make money hand taping. For the last 10 years I worked as a finisher, I used a Canadian angle head or a flushing head as he calls it, but I always made sure it was nice and sharp in the corner so you get that clean sharp angle that he's referring to, that you get from the angle head.
I agree about investing in tools. My taping sequence is always butts, flats, and then angles. I made this video on a lunch break and I just chose a bedroom with the best natural lighting, but hadn't yet taped the flats in that room (big house). Figured it wouldn't matter for the purposes of a tool comparison. Cheers
As a finisher I use the edge of the sander to create the sharp 90 with the tin flusher, the paper cuts the line. Always roll for good health and long life of your tools. Too expensive in downtime with mechanicals if you click....
In my experience Columbia flusher heads have issues with leaving mud lines recently. I also found that if you use a three inch you'll eliminate most, if not all the mud lines if your flusher has no quality control issues.
I use a 4 inch flusher for the first then a 2.5 for the second coat so i only have to sand once not in between coates. But i also hit the lines with a knife initially also. Takes more time but the corner come really nice with no work in-between
Thanks for the constructive input. Funny cause I had recently looked at an older video I made and thought wow that music I added is really annoying. Going to really limit it moving forward. And going to get a proper mic.
@@Interior_Works The content is the best I've seen on angle tools. One idea could be to have the music fade during talking and normal volume for intro/outro. Again the content is excellent!
Id like to try the can ams again, I had stopped using them because they didn't have stainless runners, I was getting rust stains on my walls. But I see they have upgraded to stainless now.
Hello thanks so much for the video it was very informative.. I am in the process of upgraded my drywall game to these. i have ordered the syringe tube and a applicator head.. I am going to go the route of a angle head. so my question is.. after this first coat that you did and you are ready for your second coat..do you use the applicator again and just use the angle head again ? will this cover the tape? with a taper from the inside corner to the outside edge?
Thanks. Yes ready for the finish coat after this. You could use the applicator and anglehead again for a finish coat, or you could put the anglehead directly on the syringe tube and finish that way. Using the applicator and anglehead again is my usual way, but it can be a little messy on the top horizontal corners if not using a 3.5". Alternatively a "Hybrid" method is applicator and anglehead on verticals, anglehead direct on on tube for horizontals, so no drips. You could also use an angle-box or use a "mud-runner"
The flusher isn't designed to to make a clean look it's designed to make up time by not rolling and glazing. You always have to clean up behind it while it's wet
Hello there! I'm about to buy my first flusher (us amazon is my only option... We do not have these here, in Poland :( unfortunately!). And the thing is: which size should I buy? Usually I'm using 2" wide paper tape or 2.4" strait flex tuff tape - so, I should rather choose 3" or 3,5" flusher? "CanAm Tool Corner Flusher with Roller Wheels (3.5")" vs. "CanAm Tool C300-RR Direct Corner Flusher with Roller Wheels - For Applying Drywall Compound and Feathering Corners With A Fainter Touch (3" Widetrack)" - both available on amazon. Thank you in advance for your reply. Have a nace day, greets : )
Ideally you want a smaller flusher for applying the tapes (~3") and a wider flusher for finish coating the corners (~3.5"). That way the finish-coat overlaps the tape-coat and makes for easier sanding. However, if only purchasing 1 flusher for both, I'd recommend the 3", as the 3.5" is difficult to imbed tapes due to its size and is usually intended just for finish coat only.
Isn't straight flex tape like a no-coat type tape, moreso designed for off angles. I don't think running angle heads on them is normal practice. I use standard paper tape and run a 2" flush, 3" coat and them a 3.5" finish coat. I've seen angle heads as big as 4"
With an angle-box, mud runner/mudshot, you can, might take an extra pass though, depending on mud consistency. With a tube and 90° applicator, maybe not, it already gets spread quite thin with the 3.5"
Yup , I have done that . There is no right way or wrong way , it’s all up to the guy behind it , I have seen lots of guys start larger flusher then last coat smaller , I could never master that way
Thanks, I do 2 passes with the tube, the second pass I lift the applicator slightly off the corner and apply more on top of the first pass, then tape and roll. That usually takes care of it. If not I'll do the same sort of thing during the finish coat of angles.
It does work sort of similarly to the "mud runner" and "mudshot" tools, I used to run my anglehead off the tube before I started using an angle box. But you need to check compatibility of tube ballhead and anglehead as different tool brands have different size ballhead, and Columbia ballheads prior to 2018 won't fit on Columbia angleheads, just their flushers, but they've since made them fit angleheads too. It works good though
Thanks for the vids. Can you use the tube and the angle head or flusher with quick setting mud? Like 20 minute or 45 minute quick set. On a second thought what tool helps get a sharpe 45 degree inside corner. Many thanks
I use quick set mud with the tube and tools often, just need to be careful with the timing, and have the tools totally clean before it sets. If it set up inside a tube, you might never get it out. I just use the 90 minute, and go no longer than 60 before I stop to clean the tools. I find the only way to get a sharp 45 is applying either a no-coat, levelline, or straightflex product, then only feathering out the edges, leaving the factory center crease exposed. Then it's a perfect 45 everytime. There's 45° applicators for the tube, and there's a tool called the Corner Cobra for rolling it in place, the applicators only work for 2.25" width tape, the Cobra only works with the 3"+ widths, like the no coat 325 or 450. Neither of those tools with help with quality, just makes it a bit faster.
I did that once. My tube never worked as good after. So my rule is.... only normal mud!! No fast set through my tools. I'm a taper for 26 years. I use flushers from Canam, but have tried angle heads.
Thanks for the videos they're great!...I'm looking at getting into semi/automatic taping tools and looking a culombia so your videos are perfect as they're a lot more in depth than culombia. Just curious can you apply the compound with a compound tube with angle head attached?
@@Interior_Works do you have any suggestions on what to buy and which brands to buy or to stay away from. I'm looking at buying the columbia full semi automatic taping set and the 10..12 inch box set with pump and a nail spotter. Any advice would be appreciated...
@@andrewcoyne2191 I've never heard anything bad about any particular brand of tools. Personally, I've mostly just used Columbia as that's what my local supplier carries, and everything works good no quality issues I've experienced. The semi auto set is what I started with, (can-am brand, 2005, all worn out now, storing aluminum tools in water will severely corrode them over the years) and 10 & 12". Nail spotter is helpful but not entirely necessary, as it's not suitable for the first coat anyway, but will eventually pay for itself.
If the tapes are rolled and a newer flusher is used, then an anglehead can work after, although it doesn't run as smoothly. Problem is flushers slowly wear out and become dull and rounded at the corner over time, then the sharp anglehead drags during the finish coat and can even cut into the tape.
@@Interior_Works thxs bud... I think that is my problem . I used a older can am 3 on taping day then struggled with my dewalt 3.5 anglehead and mudshot on most of my corners. Have a great day .
I've never tried it, but all my new flusher heads have always gouged a bit when new, and I had to stripe mud over some spots after I ran the corners. Eventually they break in a bit and run better. I think the manufacturers might error on the side of having their flushers sprung a bit too tight, rather than the opposite and leaving unfeathered edges.
@@Interior_Works Thx heaps, that’s exactly how I felt about the amount of pressure needed to flush. Really glad to hear that it’s not just me with the gouging. I’ll keep trying. Hopefully I can get a perfect flush
Same issues I’ve seen no one mention. With my single head. I learn a a 45 degree angle when pushing it helps but still happens sometimes . I was thinking about grinding mine down
It did come with wheels, they can be removed or installed with an Allen Key. When I got the anglehead I experimented with them either on or off, and determined I preferred it without, for two reasons, 1. The wheels were leaving impressions into the wet corner tapes, which occasionally would cause a bulge that showed through the finish. 2. I found without the wheels the anglehead could flex in closer to the corner and make tighter corner tapes. For the finish anglehead I preferred with the wheels.
Have you tried using the flusher for wilping the tapes, and then the angle head for the finish glazing? I was wondering because if you only use the angle head for the last glazing, you will never hit any screws. Or if it is not perfectly square will it tear the tape?
I have tried it, it works ok.. seems that the flusher needs to be sharp and brand new, once it starts wearing out and becoming dull at the tip, the angle head glazes with a lot of friction, and can occasionally tear into the tape. A lot of people have commented saying they tape with flusher, finish glaze with angle head, but it didn't work ideal for me.
Get a pc of 18 gage steel wire and wrap from top to bottom of the flusher. You’ll see the different even your flusher is wearing down. I did it 14 years now
Ya, I just use it on commercial work, the big walls and/or standup sheets. But I don't use it very often on houses, just due to all the vaulted ceilings, closets, corners, personally I don't find it that much faster. But it was one of the last tools I bought, so I'm not very skilled with it either, still practicing.
@@Interior_Works practice with it , I use mine for everything in a house , closets , those nasty broom closets to high vaulted ceiling most efficient tool for taping , never let me down in over 40 years
Why are you wasting time with the cheap toilet paper roll method and not use Fiber Tape! You eliminate the extra step with the self adhesive fiber tape and start mudding right away not to mention 10 times faster!
I'm well aware how fast self adhesive fiber tape can be applied, but I will never use it. It's fast and easy, but doesn't work in corners and produces joints that are more susceptible to cracking and ive tested and proved this in this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_1glbKCJ3L4.html Most, if not all builders in my area don't allow fiber tape on their projects because the problems it causes.
@@TheDemoexpert Watch the linked video, I covered that point. Fiber tape always produced a crack first in the test. It's because fiber tape flexes. Paper tape doesn't. The video evidence speaks for itself.
if you're wondering whether it works or not, the answer is yes thats how i run my angles all the time. works perfectly just watch the mud consistency 😉
