I have a kick starter on my australian 2012 DRZ-400E model, the battery seems to charge up when I ride the bike, but after sitting for awhile like a few days to a week or so it gets flat fast, all I gotta do is kick it over with the ignition turned on, and it fires right up, even when it can't start up with the e start button, love it best mod to have on any dirt or trial bike.
Interesting that you say the rect if bullet proof.. My DRZ is a weekend warrior and I keep it on a charger/maintainer during the week.. Everytime I would go ride.. It was rough to get it started, but it would go.. at the end of the session, we drive home from the mountains, and a couple hours later, it will not start. I took a voltmeter to the battery.. and reving the engine did I did not see 14v at all.. it didnt move.. I swapped out the rect. now I am seeing 14v.. tested the stator and it is fine.. seeing the readings that you are supposed to.. A new aftermarket rect. is cheap and plugging it in is easy.. I am so glad, I tried the rect. before going after the stator.
best option is to check both, rectifier was checked and worked well, stator didn't pass. Order new stator, but you are correct the rectifier is much less expensive than the stator, wish mine had the rectifier issue, would of saved some coin
I've had two DRZs. Both burned the stator coil about 12,500 miles and immediate stop. The ignition coil on the stator has absolutely nothing to do with the battery or lights. The CDI is charged off one and only one of the stator coils. The other coils are used for lighting, horn, fan, battery charge. Lights/charge are completely separate from the ignition. Reference a manual. The coils you can buy for the DRZ off ebay are better than stock, but for $50 I replace mine every 10k miles to not worry.
I installed a LED charge indicator light, on my drz. Very simple and they work great, you can tell at a glance if the bike is charging. Installed it in the hole in the ignition switch bracket. I definitely don't want to get stranded in the woods with a flat battery.
@@travis3567 No , but it came with instructions and was a simple 2 wire install. I remember tapping into a keyed power wire and a ground near the ignition switch.
sorry sold this bike years ago, but I did switch over to a michelin front and back and did find them better than the D606. On the duel sport Husqvarna I run dirt tires as it just doesn't see the streets.
Not totally true. If the battery falls enough, the bike won't start. Had this happen last weekend on my DRZ with a bad stator. I did manage to kick start mine and get back to civilization. It won't run with a bad stator and totally dead battery.
Moto Maddness Thanks for the video. I would like to do the mod but not exactly sure where the ground and positive wires come off the R/R. I understand you are going from the R/R directly to the battery bypassing the computer but which wires are you tapping from the R/R? I guess I need a detailed overview of the mod. LOL Thanks
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KjiuEVSz6XQ.html I relooked and found this. This tells ya about the leads and the connections ya need. Hope this gets to ya.
Im not sure, you would need to figure out how many amp of draw you will be adding, what you have and how much you can save to run your accessories. I am running stock with no accessories, other than the rear signal light and brake light those are the only amps that are being saved by going LED vs incandescent.
Not sure why you towed the bike back. I drove my bike 60 km with a completely dead battery all I did was bump start it and it drove fine the only thing that didn't work was the speedometer
bad spot for that fuse. Wire between battery and fuse is not protected and you ran right through the frame 😬 I usually have the fuse right at the battery.
