DSLR Astrophotography modification - Canon 1100D / T3 

I'm always glad to hear that, I wish you clear skies ASAP 😉

Let me know if you run into any issues, just remember to take it easy and to organize your screws while you are taking the camera apart. Make sure you insert all the connectors well together too, so you will avoid the need to going back inside and searching for what you missed, but again let me know if you have any problem and how it went, Cheers

Hi, im looking to modify my 1300d too. How did yours turn out? Would you recommend me doing the same? Thanks

@@lukeoxlade7119 well it was an experience. Definitely fiddly but it all worked out ok in the end and the camera is a million times better with nebulosity now. Just bear in mind it’s delicate and not easy. I definitely thought my camera was not going to make it a number of times during the strip down. The final filter removal section was far more difficult that the video made it look. Simon

Hey, to come straight to the answer, I didn't, I have a completely ''naked'' sensor/chip since I use u light pollution filter and most of them have an IR-cut properties (but way less aggressive as the one in your camera) (it can be a smart choice) but as I mentioned I just removed all the glass that was in front of the sensor and rely on light pollution filters.

Hey Todd, I'm very sorry for the late reply, and this is a very basic question but did you push the pin there the right way to lock it, because not all of them go in the same direction.

Hey the 350D is not really good for astrophotography since you can't control it with a computer, I got my 350D just for testing, but anything above that is actually quite good for astrophotography, and then it depends if you want to make large prints of your images, more pixels are going to give you a much better result, but if you are going to share your images on the internet, you really don't need a 24Mpix camera because the images get heavily reduced and compressed, so you can use pretty much anything you like but avoid the 350D or below. Cheers

@@TadejSkofic thanks! I will lookup for some old canons than :) maybe 450d or 1000d t2i etc.

Hey, it's not that easy, I mean it will come very close but the images without an IR filter will come out a bit soft like it's glowing, itis a bit hard to explain but for ''normal'' results you will sadly need an IR-cut filter

@@TadejSkofic thanks, i've ordered some tools to give it a go! I assume that once the cam is modified it'll work best with bigger lenses (ie longer focal lengths), at the moment I only have the stock 18-55mm lens for milky way shots

Hola podría usar después de quitar el filtro de la cámara un filtro ya sea uhc o CLS en el adaptador t2 tengo esos de dos pulgadas no se si esa combinación sería buena gracias

Hey, the issue is most likely that you didn't insert the wires properly and you have a poor connection. And I know that's the simplest answer I can give you, but It has to be something mechanical, the chance of you fried something is very very low, so I think you will have to go back and check your connections. (You don't have to go all the way to the sensor) Let me know if you resolve the issue.

@@TadejSkofic Thanks man I ended up opening it back up and fixed it :) cheers man appreciate it :)

@@memphisprime2066 Glad to hear that, wish you clear skies men!

Do you mean after you remove the IR filter so you can use it as a normal DSLR? if that is your question the answer is yes, I didn't bother to get one since I have a separate camera for video and terrestrial photography, but you could remove the IR filter end get a clip in version so the DSLR works normally.

Hey, this is a bit weird, if you put it back together the way it has to be, there shouldn't be a problem I'm gonna be honest that I don't really know what exactly should you do but you might get some answers one the -Cloudy Nights forum- I will try to look into this and get back to you if I find a solution but try to post your problem on the forum, there are many more people with a piece of great knowledge.

Maybe the camera has sensor cleaning set to Auto. Switching it to manual might avoid the error.

Hey, well I have a naked sensor mode, so I just removed all the glass in front of the sensor. It's recommended to use some sort of IR-cut filter (usually all the light pollution filters have some sort of IR cut properties but I've imaged without them too) And I'm currently using the 600D too, and just be careful that you make yourself some markers on the screws for the sensor because it's spring-loaded so you have to tighten them back to the same position, except if you want to do some terrestrial photography you have to tighten them 1/8 less then they were so ''untighten them'' for a very small amount (so the lenses can got in focus) but if you will use the camera for astrophotography only, just tighten them to the exact same tension as you mark them before you take out the sensor. And for the advantages, I would say, you pretty much have to do it otherwise, you will end up very frustrated and disappointed because most of the light from the nebule lies in the spectrum where the build-in filters are cutting them off, so I would definitely recommend you to remove them, and just take it easy, make sure you sort all the screws so you know where they go and take your time, I've modified quite a few cameras now so I can get in done in 20min but the first time it took me 4 hours and 2x15min brake 😆

@@TadejSkofic That problem with the "mark the screws of the sensor" yea. I removed then before I realised, this would have been a good idea... I am this far that I can take out the sensor and screw the filters off. I just read a few online blogs in which many said, that if you remove the IR Cut filter (I don't want to remove the filter with the dust remover) you cannot focus with the lenses, if you don't insert a clear glass of the same thickness. But you said, you have nothing in front of the sensor and it works, it should work fine? The second thing I am struggling with is, that I am not sure, if I could take the photos just with removing the filter. Some said you have to insert a filter to block the high IR and UV, otherwise you will get halos around stars, because most lenses can't focus those wave lengths. I purchased the 600D special to be used as astrocamera, so I don't care, if I couldn't take any daytime photos with it. Therefore I have my 700D. What do mean about this? What should I do?

@@ItsPolder Ok, so yes I did remove the dust filter completely because I'm using a telescope for imaging so the focusing is not a problem because the focus ''window'' is much larger than on a lens. The halos around the star (in my mind) are not such a big problem and you will have to do manual focus either way to be sure so if that is your concern I would recommend you just always do a manual focus so you can be sure it's perfect. And sooner or later you will probably want a light pollution filter and just get one that has a IR-Uv cut (here is an example) www.astroshop.eu/moon-filters-polarizing-filters/baader-filters-1-25-neodymium-moon-and-skyglowfilter/p,10932 but you can go for a Clip-In filter if you use a camera lens but they are more expensive. So if you remove all the filters you still have some options lather, your main concern should be to install the sensor back correctly so the lenses can come into focus, because if the sensor is off you won't get it into focus so you will have to go back inside and do adjustments. Which is not the end of the world, but it's stressful if this is your first time doing this.

@@TadejSkofic Yes, of course I choose the option with much more stress for the first time, thats how I do it always :D So you think this should all be fine to remove the 2nd filter (IR Cut Filter) and leave the first one inside. I only have to get the sensor adjusted correctly. Do you know any tutorial for this one? One thing I don't understand is: Why should I remove the filter inside just to get a lp filter with an IR-UV cut? This is what I just remove, isn't it?

@@ItsPolder HaHaHa, well then you are a lot like me most of the times 😃 But the light pollution filters are way, way less aggressive, for example, I'm only using a UHC and a 12Nm H-alpha filter and I removed every clear glass, filter that's in front of the sensor. I think in the first video on this site he is mentioning how to deal with the sensor dslrmodifications.com/rebelmod450d1.html you will probably find all the answers here. But let me know if you get stuck at any time and I will try to help 😉

Hey, did you insert the cleaning glass back in?

@@TadejSkofic hi, the order in the sensor unit I saw was, LP1 and then LP2, and then CMOS Sensor. LP2 was attached to the system with a black plastic frame (glued on to the frame). I had removed this LP2 (it got broken while removing), not replaced with any filter and kept the empty plastic frame as it is and then LP1.

I re-assembled it, the actual problem is happening at memory card read. It is not able to detect the memory card. Dont know, is something got damaged while doing astro-modification. How can I rectify this ? Do you have any idea ?

@@chaitanyach3227 I don't think you did anything to damage it, the thing is that in 99% it's just the problem that you missed something when re-assembling, so you might need to go back in and check if you connected all the connectors properly.

matrix alignment?

@@juliocamacho8354 yes

Hey, could you unscrew it, and it just won't come out? If you did, that just carry on and take it out when you start to disassemble the camera. But if you have a problem with unscrewing it than there is really not much I can help you with, other than give you a suggestion that you should have a ''fresh, sharp'' screwdriver and try it with a bit of force. Let me know how it went.

Tadej Skofic the screw won’t go out at all I think the threads on the inside is broken or something. Well I got around it and I could still get it to the sensor just with a little bit of hassle. Now I just have to get the filters out and reassemble it which may be difficult.

@@gustavbertelsen7633 Just take it easy and work slowly, it is a bit difficult but very specifying when you are done 😉 Wish you the best of luck!

Tadej Skofic thanks man!! Your video has helped me so much, I really appreciate it😁

@@gustavbertelsen7633 I'm always glad to hear that!, Thank you!

Yes exactly 😉

@@TadejSkofic Thanks for the quick response,. Is there any way that I would be able to only remove the ir cut filter? If so do you know how?

@@gustavbertelsen7633 The thing is, that both are IR cut so you have to remove them, but you can easily fix the white balance in PhotoShop, except if you still want to use the camera during the day you will have problems from the IR light.

@@TadejSkofic Alright. So if I do the modification will I need any kind of uv/ir filter to prevent star bloat?

@@gustavbertelsen7633, In theory, yes, but sooner or later you will pick up a light pollution filter (Moon&SkyGlow , CLS, UHC) and all of those have some king of IR/UV cut. I'll add a few links to filters (not an affiliate) and just check the description. . I have this one (but don't use it very much because it's not aggressive enough to cut the light pollution in my backyard): www.astroshop.eu/moon-filters-polarizing-filters/baader-filters-1-25-neodymium-moon-and-skyglowfilter/p,10932 And this is my main go-to filter for imaging RGB www.astroshop.eu/uhc-filters/omegon-filters-pro-1-25-uhc-filter/p,47288 And I also use the H-Alpha filter a lot

Yap there is, it took me almost 2 hours to the first time I removed the IR filter on the 350D but just take it slowly and organize your screws and you should be fine, but if you encounter any problem let me know 😉

Hey, Thanks for the tip, I appreciate that!

@@TadejSkofic You're welcome...just trying to further the art for others.

Sorry, but I don't have it.

@Aluxxz hahahah if someone has to ask.. not worth the effort to tell them ..

@Aluxxz beep beep thats all folks.