After breaking the hub axle in my Shimano Deore M6010 rear hub these were the very two hubs I was thinking of getting. Either one would have been good, but due to availability problems and customs duties, I selected the DT Swiss one. If I was living in the UK, instead of being in EU, I might have selected otherwise. Thanks for the video, now I know about the tool I'll need when doing maintenance on my DT 350 hub.
Be thankful you could even get the DT as a option, can’t get a Hope hub here I need the SS/T version for my DJ bike but suppliers and lbs and online have no stock, no eta, hard to get them to even back order still now, they got no idea, lol.. I’m in Aussie btw
I’ve used hope hubs since the 90’s and always found them easy to service. I love the sound my Pro4 makes, and costs peanuts to keep em crisp with new springs. I swapped my hope hub based wheels from my Hightower to my ebike as the Bontrager hubs that came on the Trek Rail are absolute garbage, so far the Pro4’s have help up well but I guess time will tell. My rule with Hope hubs is when they are quiet they need servicing. Is it easy to know when the DT ones need attention? I think it’s important cos there’s no bodge you can do on the trail if they start to slip. Worked on my mates I9 hubs a while ago and they were awful to service!
Hope Pro 4 proved to be a very good hub, high quality engineering , great reliability , value for money and easy to service. Onyx Racing Vesper currently installed....expensive , but the silence of the "sprag clutch" is another level.
Running 350's with the 54T upgrade and since I moved them to my ebike, also upgraded to steel freehub body. I like the simple maintenance and upgraded ability. Also, you can remove the freehub body with the cassette.
Few questions mate... So DT Swiss also offers a steel freehub body? How are the 54T holding up on your ebike? Is a high engagement rear hub a noticeable / worthy upgrade considering there is play in the front cranks bcuz of the motor?
You can remove the freehub with the cassette on a hope, although you can’t press the seal back in. But for that reason the hope stays far cleaner inside compared to the dt Swiss, far better sealed on a pro4.
Can't see the point of running 54poe on an ebike. I run the hybrid 20poe ratchet on my jam2, and a 36poe on my Rise. My Reactor and HT both have 54poe. Literally cannot fault the 350s. Maybe not a glam option, but never had one fail, had Pawls on me tho.
Thanks for the info. Which would have the least drag? I have a significant issue with freehub drag/cassette backlash causing an awful amount of chain slap on my Giant Defy. Was told it was the crap Shimano hub. So, looking to replace or a new rear wheel
I service these all the time and I personally own 2 sets of wheels with Pro 4 Hubs and they are absolutely amazing. The machining tolerances are so good the bearings fit into the bores smoothly. I wish DT Swiss would have made the ratchet slightly bigger to avoid taking out the drive ring in order to get the bearing out. It is a pain to unscrew them sometimes.
Great comparison. By chance I ended up with a couple Hope Pro 4 rear hubs and DT Swiss front hubs from LBS. One thing to add is how interchangeable these hubs are to different wheel configurations by changing the end caps.
I have DT Swiss 350's with the 54 tooth ratchet gears on my SantaCruz Bronson CC.... I love hearing the sound of a raging hive of hornets in my rear hub... When we were kids we use to take soda cans and crimp onto our tires to make such awesome noises. Now we pay hundreds of dollar's on our already expensive bikes. Totally makes sense to me...
Makes sense to me too, The 350s are a sweet hub especially when you can upgrade the engagement. Halo make a nice hub to in the Superdrive, good value too. the more points of engagement you have more of the load is spread evenly throughout the hub shell. we used lollipop sticks. Please consider subscribing to my channel please, ru-vid.com/show-UCU0hrLswU55eaZ7kjYQ0PeA
Great comparison video! I decided to go for the DT Swiss 350S straightpull hubs for my road carbon wheelset, simply because they seem to be more common here in Singapore, and hence more well-known. I changed the hubs because the original hubs (Powerway, Taiwan) using the traditional ratchet and pawls would engage with a terribly loud 'clack'. I suspect 1 of the pawls didn't match up perfectly with the ratchet body. Well, I've clocked around 8000kms on the new hubs and have had zero issues. So easy to open up the ratchet for a clean and regrease too!
Despite the pro 4 being louder I tend to think theres more friction in the 350 because of all the contact points in the star ratchet. That doesn't necessarily mean that it has any impact on speed but that's a lot of metal grinding inside that hub which could potentially make for more issues if they're not serviced properly. I do like that the ring is removable in the 350s because it can be replaced if the teeth wear out. It appears that the ring on the pro 4 is integrated into the aluminum hub shell. There is better engagement with the 350 but for the majority of riders that won't matter. I think the pro 4 is a tried and true design that's both simple and effect but I can definitely see the advantages with the 350. I might try a 350 on my next wheelset.
Had 350s for 4 years, zero problems, only regreasing no bearing change. It was a full susser with 140 mm travel that had a hard life. Around 4000 km done on those wheels.
I have 4 sets of the Hope pro 4s rim brake versions 11speed road and there just awesome no issues and service is a snap, and quality is the on par with Dura-Ace hubs for sure. What I like the most is there’s less freehub parts on hopes compared to DT and no tools required to take the hub apart! Bearing replacement, free hub, axle, are a breeze to remove! Once you take off the end caps and freehub off “remove 1mm washer in between freehub and bearing, “very easy to do” lightly tap the axle with a rubber mallet to remove the bearing from one side and reverse for the other bearing and the hub shell is bare,! get your press tool and install new bearings and re assemble with your hands. Even the green seal I can press down into place with my thumbs, put end caps on and done.😃
I had both and both are amazing cheap and bulletproof. What i like about dt is how easy it is to relube the ratchet and change the ratchetring for louder ones. Just pull the cassette and regrease or exchange. The hope is more complicated. For the upgrade from 2 pawls to 4 i needed a new freehub and if you just push the freehub with cassette back on the hub the green seal doesn't snap into place and it creates friction so you need to remove the cassette when relubing the pawls. other than that the hope feels nicer and the green seal is fantastic. The blue Hope grease is still blue after 3000k of dust and mud. The red dt grease gets grey afeter a week of riding already. Just nerding out the dt ratchet still lasted long. DT for the mass and easy service. Hope for the lovers who are willing to learn a bit more.
the 240 is not just lighter. it has stainless bearings instead of chromoly plus more endcap adapters are available. I have old nonboost mtb hubs (100x20) on my Gravel (100x12). This endcap is only abailable for 240 not for 350 plus the 240 have the exp ratched from the 180 and even the 350 are on ext system too now.
Hi Lanis and thanks for watching, great comments there. one of the great things about this video and from peoples comments its clear that the hope pro4 seems to fair better in less wet climates, or should I say that if you live in wet muddy climates all hubs need more frequent servicing?????, food for thought,.
The Yorkshire Bike Mechanic got mtrx for my hope hubs so they will last long. I often clean pawls and chain because clean stuff lasts longer. the bearing i just ride and replace every 10k or maby never again now with the mtrx bearings.
Can only judge the DT (actually the 240S), absolutely reliable hubs. But also Hope is known for reliability as well. I think you can't say in general, that star-ratches are better: DT make good ones as well as Hope produces a very good pawl system. There are other brands on the market, that have more problems with both, pawl and star ratchet. One point to mention: Removing the inner ring in order to have access to the bearings can be a hard job. If the hub is old, you need a vise on a massive (fixed) bench in order to crack this thing open... You have the feeling, that you are about to destroy your wheel... :-)
I've had the Hope pro4 for a season. Really loved them. The machining is a thing of beauty. My only complaint was the engagement. I currently have the 350s on my bike due to the upgradeable Ratchet. I have the 54t engagement and on technical trails its night and day to the hopes. Really no complaints with either hub.. Ultimately tho my absolute favorite hubs are Chris King iso. I would have gone with those but they are impossible to find right now.
I love the loud sound that the Hopes make I have the two pawl system but thinking about going to four pawls system for that Buzz sound, and they are just durable and long lasting, Hopes all the way😃
Hi, great informative video. Subscribed. I watched as I am looking at upgrading a giant fastroad comax 1 2016 (PR2 performance tracker wheelsets) to Hope wheelsets (Hope 20FIVE-Pro 4 Road). Do you think it's worth the upgrade..options are limited in quick release, and I'm trying to find more speed without upgrading the whole bike. Cheers
I went with straight pull 240's on my EX511 wheel build, only because I couldn't find 350's in stock anywhere, I wanted to go with HOPE but they don't do a straight pull or center lock Mountain hub. I actually wanted the 350 over the 240 as the ratchets are easier to remove and upgrade compared to the 240.
I am on my second hope pro 4 hub the first one lasted me 6years with only one service, one set of bearings. Only got a new one coz I had to get a new rim & had a brilliant deal on a hope custom wheel that worked out around the same price as a new hub. Would like to try a different make but keep going back to hope. Fit & forget with hope
Had the Hope pro 4 (Fortus wheelset) on my last bike. The quality was excellent for the price of the wheelset. Great sound which wasn't over the top and reliable engagement. 2 years of hard Enduro races/trail rides and no problems. I knew they were known for their reliability and spare parts should be fairly easily obtained. Servicing was easy, the only small downside was having to remove the cassette so you could reinstall the green seal on the freehub when servicing the pawls. I'm sure the DT 350 is just as good and the ratchet system looks bombproof, but having to buy a tool to remove the ring seems a bit of a pain. Only available in black and the standard 18t engagement 20° vs Hope 8.2° makes the Hope better bang for buck in my eyes. Yes the dt can be upgraded but puts the price well above the Hope. Quality English hubs👌 Thanks for the vid👍
Got 4 bikes all with 350 hubs. Flawless operation, ridiculously easy maintenance and upgradability. I use then almost as a modular system, swapping around freehubs, ratchets and cassettes. Love em!
On the Hope 4 HG, you should get the steel, especially if you're a heavy or hard rider. The aluminum one will dig deep. They should seriously consider putting a hub saver strip or two on that model but I guess everyone is going either XD or MS these days.
I Have the Hope pro 4 Freehub 540 Steel HG and I have sram NX Eagle 10-50 Cassette running on this, I use the spacer that comes with it on the Hub then fit the Cassette, this allows a little more clearance for the derailleur when on the lowest gear so there is no connection with the spokes.
Just had to replace my Hope pro4 with a DT Swiss 350. I have been using the 350 on almost every bike since 2011. I've had a few Pro4 along the way but the traditional spring/paw design always wears and fails. The 350 ratchet system is essentially indestructible leaving only minor bearing service to be performed. I still have a fully functional 350 containing all of the original internals from 2011 that has spent several years riding in the harsh weather of Innerleithen Scotland and several trips to the Alps. I currently have (5) 350 equipped bikes and (1) still running a Pro4 and it's already had a paw/spring replacement, luckily it didn't eat the outer ratchet-ring, as others have in the past. Without warning a bit of paw chips off essentially locking up the hub momentarily till something else gives-way. Upon inspection the paws and outer-ring bits ate each other, and this occurred in 2 well serviced hubs.
The default DT swiss HG (old style) free hub body is made of cheese. Mine became so bitten within a year that it affected shifting, that's with XT cassetes on alloy spiders, the wear occured in the higher (smaller gears) where the steel cogs sit straight on the free hub body. It cost over £100 to source a steel hub body from the US. In all fairness the steel body hasn't a mark on it after over a years use. If the cassette body falls off the ratchet mechanism has a tendency too launch itself out. A full set of ratchets and springs can set you back over £80, beware cheap chinese hollow alloy ratchets on ebay. You need the steel ones. Bearings are smooth as butter after 2 years of use. In summary well made, but parts are expensive, on that basis I'd go for the hope next time.
Hi Jeff, I couldn't have explained that better. it's a very common problem and on older cheaper cassettes where only the last 2 or 3 rings are loose, the aluminium freehub fairs a little better apart from the loose rings chewing the end up, lol, no problems like that on Sram XG, and microspline we will have to wait and see. thanks for the input.
I'm running a 350 with the 54T upgrade in a qr, shimano hg setup combined with a newmen 30mm internal rim. A very high quality setup! Light but super stong and so easy to service. Going for a set of 240 hubs with the same rims and some nice light dt spokes for the new spark 960 that i have on order.
Hello there. I had bouth hubs on my bikes. Pro 4's i had an issue. Bearings in freehub start squiling and pals broke after few months of use. Some watts in quads haha. I was quite disapointed regarding this hubs are on good reputation. Than i bought 350's and still riding them. Best hubs for money if you ask me. Regular service is super easy allthough the tool requiered for bearaing change is quite pricey. Bearings are standard, 6902rs and can be bought anywhere although i recomend original dt swiss bearings which are not so expensive. Bearing change in front hub, also 6902rs is quite dificult to change if you do not have special tools for extracting them. Have upgrade them to 54 star rachet.
Hi, Thanks for your comments, great to share your thoughts, I find enduro bearings great for hubs, not too expensive but good quality. Thanks for watching.
Nice video! However,I hate to be critical, but i think you missed out on a lot of key differences: -Engagement points on the hope, vs the cost of high engagements rings for the DT. - DT is serviceable but much more sensitive to using wrong grease (with dire consequences) - the seal quality on the hope hubs- for better (longevity) or worse (friction). - color options on the hope. Both are indeed true workhorse quality hubs. I just think those differences need some highlighting.
Hi Lior, your not been critical, this is the great thing about social media (sharing). The biggest mistake people make regarding hubs is the lack of servicing, dosent matter which hub it is they all need regular servicing. you would expect that if your going to service a dt swiss hub then you should follow dt swiss recommendations and use the correct amount/type of lube, the hopes freehub body seal needs replacing too when serviced. Providing they are serviced they should last for many years. we get loads of all kings of hubs that are a right mess just through lack of service.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic youre absolutely right. Still, for a home mechanic, getting hold of basic quality grease is easier than a proprietary one. And I've seen dt hubs fail more regularly due to over or improper greasing. My first one included, to be honest:) Ive opened hope hubs after a full season and was amazed at the sealing quality. I would bet on them first in wet climate (though, i imagine a Yorkshire mechanic has more experience with wet weather than a rider from Israel like myself;) It comes across as if i'm strongly in favor of the hope. That's not the case, i really do think they're both great and solid hubs (though, i would take a 44t hope over a basic 18t DT any day:)
I'm running the DT 350 on my Trail bike and Hope hubs on my Fat Bike (Winter, Snow Bike). I love them both and choose the Hope over the DT based on the color options available with Hope. If I was overly concerned with the weight, I would go with the DT 240 or 180's.
I've had 2 new Hope Pro 4's fail on the same bike within 12 months of riding. Had a pawl shatter both times and destroy the drive ring. On the DT Swiss 350 now, so far so good.
I’ve run Pro4’s on my trail bike for ~5 years now (got them when they first came out). They’ve been flawless even though I’ve never serviced them apart from regreasing when I’ve swapped freehub bodies. Top top quality. (I’ve DT Swiss wheels too which have also been fine, but just don’t have the same sound!!.)
one nice feature of the Hope Pro4 is the flange diameter is very close to a Stans Neo, allowing you to swap it straight into a Stans wheel after the hub blows up, and re-use all your parts. I liked my Flow wheel but the hub was garbage. now quite happy! buzzzzzzzz
Thank you very interesting….I don’t like the special tool needed for the dt Swiss, personally. Can this be avoided on their other hubs. I’d want straight pull spokes so a different hub anyway presumably
I have the Pro 4 on my trail bike and love the noise it makes, I have the 350 on my XC bike with the 18t ratchet and love the silence. Both great hubs.
I have a 350 with the 54 tooth upgrade, it's the best sounding high engagement hub I've heard. Quieter than any other I think (except silent ones of course).
Great video, thank you. I had a friend abuse my turbo levo somewhat, snapped the chain and knackered the hub springs and pawls (not a Hope or DT Swiss hub). The damage caused simply couldn't have happened on the DT ratchet system, so that's what's on it now. I'm sure the Hope is great, but for ebikes I'd personally choose the DT just for the ratchet. It's also beautifully quiet and a lot easier to service without risking losing pawls or springs Worth adding that the 350 hub is now 24 points of engagement (mine is, at least)
I'm a bit confused about free hubs and bearings. I've been e-biking since 2018 and bought my latest bike last year. I was shocked to find the Shimano rear hub was knackered after 600 miles as the bearings are not sealed and need maintenance. So I've changed both wheels to DT Swiss which have sealed stainless steel bearings and it looks like they will still need maintenance. Am I missing something? Is it the pawl or ratchet system may need replacing or is it wear from the free-hub body that will need attention? Another great video, thank you.
Hi Jon, Will talk about the tyres first, I feel for you as I know how hard some of them can be, problem is that the are fit at the factory dry on the rim, many tyres especially tubeless can be so tight they stick to the aluminium or carbon and weld themselves. in the past we have had to use a vice to get the tyres free from the rim, this damages them though by stretching the bead. The way to stop it is the rub some red rubber grease on the bead and rim but not loads just enough to put a thin layer on when fitting your new tyres. You are welcome anytime if you need help. Regarding the hubs, hubs that use sealed bearings are always better, you get what you pay for with hubs, they will last for thousands of miles but will need a monthly clean if you ride more that twice a week especially in wet weather. That means stripping the free hub, cleaning and re-lubing with dt swiss lube. are they 350s. Dave
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic Thanks for the reply and the tips, my wheels are E1900 with 370 Ratchet LN 18 hubs. They were all I could get at the time. I'm out rain or shine and probably only once or twice a week. I'll order some DT spline grease and strip the free hub at the weekend.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic No it's on a fully 26inch Bianchi NRS... I serviced the hub by cleaning the ratchet but no dirt in the seals whatsoever....Great sound, great stifness with the straigt pull wheels and very very strong
I Have the Hope pro 4 Freehub 540 Steel HG and I have sram NX Eagle 10-50 Cassette running on this, I use the spacer that comes with it on the Hub then fit the Cassette, this allows a little more clearance for the derailleur when on the lowest gear so there is no connection with the spokes. I also have the Xd Freehub for this but I do not like the design of screwing a 12 speed cassette on a thread that you cannot see, it seems that there is a risk of cross threading and this could be an issue.
Hi thanks for watching, I do know what you mean re the cross threading, however we have never cross threaded on by mistake. the locating notch helps to line the thread up. thanks for the cassette tip
Hi Dave, really appreciate your video. I'm considering buying a Hope Fortus 35 Pro 4 rear wheel as a replacement on my Range VLT emtb, as the stock e13 LG1-DH had an unfortunate l encounter with a rock garden and didn't hold up.. So... I'm wondering if the stock DT Swiss H370 emtb hub is already equal or better than the Hope Pro 4? If so, I'll consider upgrading only the rim to an HX581 instead of buying a whole new wheel... your advice would be greatly appreciated as emtb wheel/rim/hub advice is as rare as hens teeth when it comes to DH emtbs with 2.8 tyres
Hi, Hope you are well. Good question. I would keep your 370 hub and build it onto your new, providing that your 370 hub is no nice and not giving you problems, here is why; The 370 is as good as the hope pro4 hub, it's very similar in how its works but the 370 can be upgraded to the new star ratchet system in future if you choose to. however you must must must maintain it, just like any hub including hope it takes lots of punishment especially on an ebike. strip and rebuild it every six months. If you spent another £180 on a new hub you wouldn't be getting a better hub than you have now, if you want to upgrade it at the same time thats a good upgrade but if its running fine and well maintained you wont have to. Hope that helps. Dave
Running a set of pro4 hubs on a custom wheel build for a V2 Sentinel. Don't climb tech, so p.o.e. is not desirable due to negative effects of pedal kickback on rear suspension. My priorities are durability, quality, and a variety of colors (appeal to vanity) which the Hopes have in spades! Being built by a small, dedicated group of people behind a legendary brand made the choice easy for me. Nearly all the people I ride with run DT, and I've caught them all looking over at my Hopes!
I have Hope Pro 4 and Fortus 30 rims. Very happy with them, decided because of serviceability, reputation, the noise and being British. At these prices I'm sure DT Swiss are just as good.
I am having zero luck with a pro4 xd hub on my levo. I’m having the bearings collapse every few hundred miles. And even that pawls are migrating into the alloy body. So far IIRC I am on my 4th Freehub in about 18 months. Really have been crap. Yet the standard roval hub which I use when my hope falls to bits has been fine
i've got pro 4 on 2 bikes and 350 on one bike. the ratchet is so simple and good on the DT swiss. having said that never had a hint of trouble from the hope. and Hopes are way louder. so i'd go with hope. can't go wrong with either really
You know there's actually something I like about the dt350 over the 240 now that i think of it. The bearings are bigger. Major benefit in service life and long-term rolling resistance. Those grams you pay for on the 240 in my experience come with a considerably shorter bearing life
On DT Swiss 350 with 36 star rachet now and love them and their reputation. I'm coming off of two sets Chris Kings which I believe are the best - but they are just too outrageously expensive! Also, I get my hubs used - previously on Fleabay and now on Pinkbike, and build up the wheels myself. Yup, yup!
Thanks for uploading such a super helpful video! The rim on my DT Swiss EX1700 needs replaced now, but that build comes with the straight pull 350 hub. It seems like it will be a nightmare to swap the rim with the straight pull spokes, so I'm considering instead buying a EX511/Hope Pro 4 build from my LBS. Is this worth the £350 for ease of future rim replacement, or is there a reasonably easy way of swapping the rim on the EX1700 in spite of the straight pulls?
@@pointoflew6451 Hi, My opinion from a long term point of view, a new wheel would be the better option, we would normally charge £339.00 for the same build so they are not far off with £350
Hi, The seal normally stays inn the hub shell when the freehub body is removed, its just pressed into the hub shell, It can be removed by using a sharp pricking tool.
I vote to have more Yorkshiremen on bike channels. I'm a Pro4 man both ends. It's a simple set of reasons some are more me than anything. 1. Sexy blue. 2. Easy to fix at home. 3. Loads of spares. 4. Easily adapted to other spacings. 5. Easy change freehub. 6. A spring and pawl freehub is something I'm used to and its sound is a tool I use to judge speed. 7. I use a shit tonne of Hope stuff so it just looks right.
I don’t plan to build a wheel but buy it already made with spokes. In that sense here in US more common to find wheel with DTswiss. But even if I could find wheels with Hope hub, they are noisier and that’s is very appealing for many but not for me. I use my bike for commuting and if would be too annoying a noisy one.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic you know... I decided to buy the Hope fortus 30. 😄 My bike is 29er, 135mm QR rear and 100mm QR front, and this option doesn't come with a nice DT swiss. Also, because my weight, need something robust, like 32 holes, and again, DT swiss is only 28. I don't like to noise as commented before, but the options fits exactly what I need. Besides, I can make it less noisy with some grease inside, as I have read. Comments appreciated from the experts! 👍
Hi Dave. Quick question for you !! Is it possible to strip the ratchet inside a Hope Pro 4 rear hub? My hub spins both ways and the pawls are fine. Thx Steve
Hi Steve, it’s difficult but yes you can, the rings are really hard but if damage has taken the tops of the ring tips then yes, be worth swapping out the freehub for a new one to see what happens
Great channel!! I noticed that when I put a NX 12spd cassette onto my Hope pro 4 hub that I needed a spacer before I put the cassette on, just like when I had my Shimano Deore cassette on. Is that normal?? Thx Steve
Hi Steve, thanks for watching. You would think that there would be a specific rule to say that if you have this hub and this cassette you will need a spacer but there isn't. you have to look and see if it needs a spacer or not, but you will find that pro 4s will probably need one.
Both are great hubs - just different. Maybe DT bearings have a slight edge, but I couldn’t be 100% on that. Hope seem to give great customer service even when they could legitimately refuse to. Also let’s like the pawls and springs are rarely needed but are very affordable if you do. I’ve only had to return Hope hubs when damage has been caused by a previous wheel builder’s bad build and even then Hope have been super helpful. Not had to return any DT stuff so can’t comment on that. I’ve seen a DT axle slightly ovalized on a 3 pawl version but never had that with Hope.
Thanks for such a well-presented and unbiased review! I'm really sitting on the fence on this one, as my next choice of wheels for pure tarmac use with 28mm tires (DT PR 1600 Spline 32 db or Hope 20five with Pro 4 or RS 4) more or less hinges on the choice of hubs. The Pro 4 seems more robust than the RS 4 comparing between Hope's alternatives. What would you recommend Dave between the DT or Hope wheels?
I think if I were building a road or gravel wheel, I would go with the DT, and this is why: The seals on the Hope are next level, and so are the pawls, and add parasitic drag compared to the 350's. I would say that in a road app, where speed and efficiency are tantamount, the DT hub is going to offer less drag. MTB'ing in the Seattle area, I gladly give up some rolling resistance on an already "draggy" MTB to get the longevity that the seals provide. But I do think that the Hopes have more rotational drag than the DT's, which might be more noticeable on a road bike.
@RollinRat I have a Chris King headset in my Salsa fargo that I originally bought in 1998 - never rebuilt !! I agree that CK makes THE BEST hubs .... and bottom brackets...and headsets. And as expensive as they are, I still believe they represent a good value - in the right application. For example, if I had popped for a set of CK's back in 2011, like I almost did for my then MTB (135mm w skewers) they would now be obsolete with the advent of boost spacing. You want an heirloom quality component like CK hubs to be transferrable to new wheelsets thru multiple steeds. Now we have "superboost"! Where does it end? But you are right, and I do plan to get a set of CK wheels built one of these days.
Planning to buy spank hex drive or dt swiss 350 my only downside to this both hubs is alloy axle the reason is because i use enduro hardtail plus my weight is around 230 lbs..
I noticed the engagement straight a way, I noticed I was faster, went further. Hope has 8 point something and DT Swiss has about 6g, It matters. I ride a Geometron G1 I did not notice any difference in suspension performance. Pro 4 was good enough to not to not be annoying, but during those short bursts and techy stuff I sometimes noticed I lacked engagement. less so on DT, but still notice it. I want to try Project 321, which goes as low as 1.1deg, but you can select between several options, Industry Nine Hydra.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic The hub's I've mentioned previously that I own, have proven to be reliable and strong, with great longevity. but I've read bad things about snapping axle sleeves. on Stan's, I9 Hydra hubs. But not seen any proof. But not seen or heard anything about the Pro4 and DT Swiss 350. but I've seen claim it happen with Pro3. I am 86 kg fully kitted or somewhere around that. I don't know exact, as the scale broke. the bike is about 18.14 kg. I have done 1m drops. rode trough rough terrain. So far not destroyed a hub.
Love the dt star ratchet setup especially the exp, but having to remove the drivering to get to the bearing is such a ballache. Don’t really get many problems with either of these hubs where I work.
Had DH racing experience on hope pro 3 in shitty weather. Seals were not great and was a pain to take care of them. DT swiss has great seals and hold forever.
I've been trying to replace my Bontrager rear wheel. I keep running into clearance issues with the 200 mm brake rotors that the bike came with. The 6 bolt mounts on the hubs have to be a specific width I am finding out...
Hi, Not sure what you mean, all hubs are manufactured with the same distance to end cap on the rotor side, to within a tiny amount. Hope floating rotors need hope brake adaptors due to clearance. there are 200mm rotors and 203mm rotors. can you explain more
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic I bought a Hope equiped wheel with an offset. It will not turn w/a 203 rotor. Same with a NIB wheel w/a Formula hub only this one has much wider bosses for the rotor mount. Same thing, will not spin w/a 203 rotor. the rotor rubs up against the seat stay. I'm going to try a 180 rotor...
Literally just got stranded roadside with a failed DTSwiss rear hub bearing. Managed to find a decent bike shop that had the service tools to press the bearings and fit new ones after a bus/ train ride. All I kept thinking was I could’ve sorted out my Hope hubs 😂😂 same as one of the other comments above. Been using Hope hubs off road since 80/90’s. First job after getting back was to park the the wheel set and get some Hope wheels built up 🙄
I have the Hope hubs on my mtb which have proved to be a solid set of wheels, I have had dt240 hubs on my road wheels which is my fasted rolling wheels iv had. Superstar component's V6 hubs have proven to be great solid hubs.
Hi Dave I’m looking at changing the wheels on my cannondale moterra 2 2020 model currently running 29 inch wheels, what wheels and hubs would you recommend and costing thanks
Hi, Thanks for watching, My recommendation would be hand-built DTswiss EX511 rims, DT swiss 350 hubs, 32 hole., DT Swiss comp spokes and black brass nipple. Cost would be around £570 for the pair.
are you sure DT swiss dealers can sell you the hub shell? I had my LBS in Canada tell me they tried and couldn't after they sold me a wheel that broke. I realized it was a 28-spoke wheel even though I was quoted for a 32-spoke.
Hi Nathan, Thanks for watching, I would say knowing DT Swiss that under warranty circumstances they would supply a complete new hub or a hub shell if the hub had failed.
@@TheYorkshireBikeMechanic unfortunately it wasn't the hub itself that failed. I was just looking to build a stronger wheel after having lots of spoke holes pull through, presumably from how large I am.
I had the road version of the DT hubs on my training bike, the bearings were made out of play dough lasted less than 500 miles and a pain to get too, need some new wheels for my Mountain Bike, it’s Hope hubs for me 100% 👍🏻 Oh and DT hubs at that price point made in China perhaps?
I just love you language :D No difference between Hope and hub :D dt swiss recently updated their 240 and 350 hubs, so the comparison would be more interessting with the new 350 hub, which is much lighter than the older one you used in this video.
Hello I have a problem, I bought a Sram NX and I can not screw the Cassette to the wheel, any suggestions? I have Hope Pro4 hubs XD and Freehub and I can not screw the Cassette to both of them :/ Help please!
