Amazing video, thank you! Disassembling parts that have been together for 50 years is not an easy thing... It took me hours to remove the three screws on the tabletop that hold the motor. Now, I am stuck trying to remove the tiny screw on the side of the pulley to separate it from the shaft. Praying I don't break that tiny screw head... oh boy! My dad bought this turntable the year I was born. I'm 51 now... dad's been resting for 22 years now 🙏👼
Thanks so much for this video. I've never opened up a motor on a table and this gave me the confidence to do it. The pulley now spins without a sound after some oiling 😊
Just picked one up and this video helped. Had the stoobe paper making noise, and the cut off switch was giving me channel grief. Running smooth now. Great table! Back when companies built things to last and not be disposed of every few years
I have come into possession of a splendid Dual 1229 in exceptional aesthetic condition with a very particular transparent lid. If you don't want to remove everything, just push the front part and it will slide towards the back, opening a sufficient part to be able to operate the turntable; a very special feature. The turntable turns on, the strobe light works and you can hear the motor turning but nothing moves and the controls are stuck. I believe it is a fixable problem and this great video will help me to fix it. Thank you very much. Greetings from Italy.
you are very honest and do not do anything half way you are very caring when it comes to your patients you are very wise and very skilled and a fun teacher to watch thank you for all you do on you tube
What a nicely made unit, i've tinkered with old cheap b.s.r decks and other basic types, but not one of those. Grease is a pig for going solid, sometimes the turntable is locked solid and ive had to warm the tube up it sits on, once off its cleaning with meths, then a light coating of grease. Most of the rollers lock up and the cast control cog with the tracks also locks solid. Clever in the way they work, and satisfying when repaired :-D.
Ooow and i dont use wd40 for anything other than to loosen things, once loose i clean and apply real oil. Wd40 is usefull, but knowing what it isnt is the key :-D
I have been inspired by your choice of testing media on the last few turntable repairs you've done and have now purchased the Monty Python's Contractual Obligation Album. What a hoot!
Awesome video. I just purchased one of these turntables and was going to pay someone to do this. Seeing it done is much easier for me to comprehend vs reading a manual. Thanks so much
this is very informative.. been thinking of buying a battered dual 601 from my neighbor and restore/ refurbish it, this video is going to help a lot. Thank you.
The bronze bushing the platter sits on should always be removed and cleaned, along with the well it sits in. A drop of oil in that area also. Thanks a million for making this video. Very well done!
Wow, that is a truly vintage table. All mechanical. Mine is vintage, but has some electronics in it for preamp and direct drive. No caps in this one to replace. Pretty cool.
I like to put a dremel on the idler, before the rubber restore, using a fine drum sander. And a drop of oil on the idler bearing. Those speed adjusters are a big source of problems. Even with the shutoff issues.they used bubblegum for grease. I like to mix lithium grease with lanolin. Lanolin is really slick. I use it for fine tape recorder parts, and it lasts a very long time!
AWESOME VID - thank you I'm giving my Dual a tune up after sending it in to a shop that actually gave it more problems! Sent it in w a bum RCA and they sent it back with a bum return arm. Unless they actually damaged something, I'm guessing I can just oil and grease this baby back up without their "help"
I restored my 1226 like this. Used the same lubricants. Waiting for my steurpimple to arrive. Also set the stylus geometry with the protractor. Not at intimidating as I thought it would be.
This was extremely helpfull in helping get mine working again. The only thing that is not working is the turntable won't stop spinning afterwards or when you press stop.
I had this issue initially with mine but I found that manually spinning the largest gear wheel eventually "reset" it. Also try clearing up old grease and replacing with new
@bliss1979 thanks for the advice I did try redoing all the greas and oil. When a record finishes or you push the stop the arm will return but the wheel keeps on turning and I am havei g trouble identifying what turns off the motor automaticlly.
@@lodshepherd945If you go to 18m 30seconds of this video, he explains the start and stop mechanism. For the motor to stop, the "catch" needs to be in the middle of the U shape. Flip your platter over and with the arm now on your left (but underneath), use your right index finger to spin the large cog/gear. This will get the mechanisms moving and you can see there's an arm that pushes into a small box and that turns the motor off.
Great work. The only thing missing is the lubrication of the tonearm joints. My arm is a little stiff. I can feel it. It wants to stay wherever it is, like an old dog.
Thank you! I was so curious about the record you were testing with I shazamed it and added it to my apple music library! I now have some truly awesome stuff to make me laugh.
I know this was 5 years ago, but as a note there were quite a lot of 33 1/3 10Inch records released also :). Great video. Very detailed. These old duals were and still are great turntables. They have a strong following which means finding information is available, even if it is hard to get parts for some of them now. I have the slightly more basic Dual 1015F and I restored it and it works beautifully. The speed on these is remarkably accurate considering it is just using what is essentially a shaded pole motor. +- 0.05% on mine consistently.
Loosen counterweight to when arm is "balanced" in free space, set index ring to "0", and tighten counterweight to recommended force onto the cartridge, Conical Styli use about the same amount of force on "anti-skate". Eliptical, Hyper-Eliptical, and Shibata uses about 0.8g more because of more longitudinal contact with the groove.
I have a 1229 that I bought Brand New as part of my 'sound system'... along with a pair of JBL L100s & a Sherwood 7300 receiver. Recently, I put my system back together again, but the 1229 was not performing correctly. At the repair shop the first verdict was: "everything looks great, it just needs a clean and lube and a new stylus as the old one was bent". They would have to special order the stylus to match my old one. A couple of months later, I call to see where the repair was At, as far as getting in the new needle? It was: "expected in this week". Now the verdict IS: "the friction pad is worn smooth" (as you refer to at 14:40 in your video). AND THUS my turntable tone-arm will No Longer perform correctly... it will just sit there at the end of an album side, so I will have to manually return the tone-arm to its stand. NOW... I have a Question for You: IF I only used my 1229 sparingly ... would the fact that It is Now 'worn smooth' have been something Very Apparent (OR not so apparent) with the first verdict months ago that everything "looked great, it just needed cleaned & lubed"? After watching your video I have a question as to whether or not my "worn out" issue is actually MORE one of someone putting lube Exactly where you advise NOT TO - on the friction pad?? Your thoughts Please on How Much "use" does it take to "wear out" a frction pad??
@@kchambers8102 yes it can. They are available as one of my customers brought a few in for his turntables. Google it and you will find sellers. They they push onto the spring loaded mount. I have a video showing the replacement of one.
My repair guys said the steuerpimpel is in good shape but the friction plate, that it rubs against, is worn smooth. I saw another RU-vid video where that person was saying: that if he tightened down a screw at the opposite end of the long arm (that has the friction pad ? at the other end of it) -- it forces the pad up... (into the steuerpimpel, I assume?) and helps in making to tone arm complete its action at the end of the record. I know it was a Dual turntable but not sure if it was a 1229. Does that sound right to you? And can the friction pad be replaced? Or acid etched, sanded or roughed up enough - to no longer be "too smooth" for the control arm to do its job correctly and return itself?
I have one of these. There used to be an old manufacturer authorized dealer/servicer in my area but he's long dead. I wish I bought my first Dual from him as a 1229 as it would probably still be great but left with a cheaper 1214. I have a 1229 now but it needs service. I'm not going to pull it apart!
Good informative video. I don’t know how much information about specs and maintenance guidance was available six years ago but nowadays there are all sort of maintenance manuals available on line with factory specifications for servicing these turntables. The only challenge that is to find a suitable replacement to some of the recommended lubricants by the manufacturers. That should complement very well with this video (as in using grease on friction points such as the pitch control, and the section around the cam). Also, since WD40 was used, it is likely that some of it got everywhere else that could eventually gum-up some components of the mechanism
You are assuming that I care more for this old crap than i I do. These old German record changers were never considered great back in the 70s. We used to condem and toss them out 40 years ago. When someone brings me a turntable they want it running for 30.00. Yup that what i make from most if these. People want them to either listen to s few old records or want them in working order so they can flog them off on someone else and try to make some money from all the hype surrounding anything vinyl. If someone said to me I'll spend 500 for you to restore this I would put more effort in but those people don't exist. They may appear to exist in internet posts but i have never met one in the 40+ years I have been servivibg this crap.
Wow, a really thorough well-made video. I'm going to keep my eyes open for a 1229. You've basically shown just about all that needs to be done, maintenance-wise. I picked up some Zoom Spout oil, which is made for motors at Lowes. Got a handy long spout to get into tight places. You should give it a try. Regards, Tom
Yes these units are pretty much bullet proof, with the exception with what needed to be done on this. One one that stumps most people is how to get the motor apart. I am sure a few cringed when the hammer came out, but that is the only way to pop apart those motors, as an attempt to pry it apart will result in damage to the bearings. Tapping with a hammer will separate the halves and not put any lateral stress on the rotor or shaft.
That's a nice looking turn table with the massive platter and strobe indicator/control all done up like that. I've been using the same motor oil on my own gear but wasn't sure what was good, so thanks. The only thing I use wd40 for is to soak and clean out bearings that seem ready for the scrap pile if they are really full of junk (like other dried wd40 or dusty cigarette lunk) then I push wd40 out with compressed air, soak in good oil, more air and then oil normally. Not for everything, just the bearings that are extra horrible and for equipment that's going to be heavily used for things like preservation tape transfers. Not that I leave "vapory" oil in tape transport roller bearings... but it has saved badly neglected broadcast equipment headed for the parts pile. Maybe there's a better way (like don't send the bearing flying across the room with the air!) but this seems to work; you can see the junk coming out. And the idea is that there shouldn't be any wd40 left in there or else I'm doing it wrong.
FYI Actually most automatic turntables such as the Dual above can be used in a semi auto mode and as such the tonearm can be moved manually to any location on the record without damaging the tonearm! These tonearms are designed to move freely in manual mode....I know I own 5 of these Duals. The only automatics I would not move the tonearm manually on are ones that use microprocessor controls such as a Sony PS-X600 ,Yamaha PX-3,or Denon DP47F, these are equipped with directional touch controls for this purpose.
Don't forget linear tracking. But then again, they have directional buttons as well, but right. Any of these mechanical automatic turntables can be operated in manual mode. Why do you think they have a cue level on them?
12voltvids Yep didnt forget those either my Yamaha PX-3 is a linear tracker. Previous poster didn't seem to have clue about automatic turntables. It really kills me about some folks that post comments on things they really don't know anything about....LOL. Anyway great video....I have a few Non working Duals that I want to get to .....this video should be a great help....thanks!
If anyone with a stacker spindle comes across this video, it’s a twist 20° and pull to get it out. There’s a set screw on a spindle and an L shaped groove that it locks into. Don’t go crazy trying to yank it out. It comes out easily if you’re doing it right. It only took me 2 hours to figure it out...
Love this video. I could never figure out how to get the tightly pressed motor halves apart. I want to lubricate one that I own. I would love to see how to get the arm height sleeve washer on. It looks difficult!
So cool to see these. I just got a 1264 in beautiful condition. Only issue is the belt doesn't quite shift to 45 speed. Not sure if it's the belt, or something else, but mechanically, everything is in tip-top shape.
Replacing the standard Dual mat with an upgraded mat, there are many types including glass, acrylic, various plastics and composites with recessed centres and when used with a record clamp provides a noticeable sonic improvement over the Dual mat. Platter Pad and Platter Matter are two such mats. The mat/clamp combination effectively damps out vinyl and platter resonances that the cartridge picks up when tracing the record groove.
Just watched your entire restore of the Dual 1229 and it was enjoyable to watch. If you ever have the opportunity and can find A Dual 601 and can make another video documenting how to restore the Dual 601 that would be fantastic.
Biggest problem i have run into is that the STOP selector quits functioning. Even with the table working fine I rarely find one with a working STOP fuction.
My parents had a 1218 and a 109 in a Viking/Clairtone Console. Both beautiful and tough. Everyone wants the easy way out. Just spray your troubles away. and Sit on my ace, WTF. LOL
Good video overall, I'm very appreciative for all I learned. Having said that, opening the motor by hitting the end of the shaft with a hammer is a VERY BAD idea. I knew better but did it anyway and deformed the end of the shaft, thus rendering it useless. A much better approach (based on more research) is to use a long-nose pliers in reverse (i.e. nose in closed position between halves of motor and pull open handles to pry open). Also, when closing the motor, rather than pounding it with a hammer l used a couple of C-clamps to bring the halves together evenly. Again, thanks for the video because I learned a lot and never would have tried to get in there in the first place without seeing this...but you owe me for the motor:)
That's because you "hit" it too hard. I use very little force, more of a tap. A plastic mallet is a better choice, but I don't have one. I have opened probably 100 or more motors this way and not damaged a single one. You did one and wrecked it.
@@12voltvids I tried to tap it, but it didn't work for me!?! Anyway, great video and thanks for giving me the courage to get started. I now have a perfectly working 1229 and a lot more knowledge than when I started. The small amount I paid for a motor on eBay (which I oiled and rebuilt with the method described above) was totally worth it!!!
DO NOT TAP WITH HAMMER! I was having trouble getting my motor apart and found this video, after using his hammer technique my motor is quite noisy and cannot seem to fix it and had to buy another motor from a part out table. I had much better luck taking apart the second motor with snap ring pliers, hope this helps someone!
@@12voltvids I was pretty gentle, obviously not hitting a nail! You literally say before separating the motor to "give it whack", also your video cuts out before "whacking it" and then its magically separated lol.
Complete shot in the dark here. I just was given a dual 1229 from my wifes grandma. A mouse turned it into a nest and ate the tone arm wires. no other damage. I'm going to do that grease refresh and cleaning and it should fix most of my issues. However I temp attached 4 wires to the cassette while I wait for the correct parts to fix it and I get a lot of noise off the tone arm when touched. Is there a ground wire I am missing? Im guessing my idler wheel not pushing in 33, no fine adjustment for the speed, and tone arm not behaving at all (wants to stay outside the record no matter the size), are all due to lube issues.
Where did you learn to work on those? I bought a new 1229 in 74', never thought it could be repaired without a German Tech. lol.... I'd have better luck figuring out Apollo 13 . I do use 3 in 1 on my Fender Vibratone, just a drop or 2 on the felt washer ever 5 years or so. Good Job, I was looking for a new turntable for some vintage vinyl. Might be better off getting a Vintage turntable instead.
There are 2 screws that you didn't mention during this video and I am wondering what their function is. They are both located close to the tonearm, one up by the anti skate dial and the other close to the start/stop buttons.
I have a Noresco Dual rc 1015 trm (has a built in amp for tuner and tape deck), got it working thanks to your video - but when turned off the platter still spins. I have to unplug to make it stop. ny help would be appreciated
Hellon Thanks for the vido. I have used it to help me service a similar turn table Sony 5520. I have created a new problem I'm hoping you can help me. About an inch in to a record the need slides backwards accords the disk back towards the edge of the platter. Do you have any advice on how to rectify this
I don't know about that 3 in 1 oil as a bearing lubricant. It can get gummed up when it gets old. Better quality synthetic oil for bearings is Anderol L465 oil.
I rebuilt an old grandfather clock that was seized up over 10 years ago before I was doing the videos and I used this to lubricate a clock mechanism and it hasn't gummed up in over 10 years. The electric motor 3in1 is very high quality non detergent oil designed for bearings. That is what it is made for.
Hello, this video is awesome! Super usefull and most of it is really well explained. I just get a 1229 wich is about the same construction and seems to be the same motor. The motor makes a weird noise that I could compare to an electrique "buzz" like some neon lights can do sometimes . The noise is coming from the motor and is present wether the motor turns alone or with the idler or plate. Have you ever seen and ear something like that? (I did remove, open and oil the motor like in the video but absolutely nothing change) Thanks a lot for your work and your eventual answer
Thanks for this video which I think is very helpful to service my old man's Dual 1019. I understand you're using 3in1 lubricant for bearings and pivots. What lubricant-grease you are using for the pitch control mechanism in this video? Thanks for you help in advance! Regards Aron, Germany
Hello, thanks for your lesson on this. I have my father dual and just did a lot of what you mentioned here. Could you please advise me about the mechanism of vinyl rotation ( 33-45-78) One. Mine is not working well. The motor is working but when i Place the plate on and if it is in 45, it Will stop.
Hi. Thanks for these wonderful Dual videos. I've been loving my 1245 since I bought it the 80's. I just followed your video, made a few adjustments, cleaned and greased everything. Now I'm sure it will outlast me! One little quirk has just started. Auto arm drop moves to correct position... starts to drop but then moves towards the center of the record about 1/2" while lowering to the record. Both 45 and 33. Any idea what adjustment I can make to have the tonearm just drop straight down? Thanks for any advice you might have.
Is the album you have there called "Matching Tie and Handkerchief" if so it might be a double groove album, Try and see if you get the needle into the other groove to get a different introduction.
No it is the "Contractual obligation album: Only a single groove. I remember the double grove on Matching Tie. I never had that one, in fact I never bought a Monty python album to begin with. I ended up with this after I swapped my Steve Miller band record with a friend, and he warped it, so I told him he couldn't have his Monty record back until he bought me a new Steve Miler record. Needless to say I ended up with the Python.
12voltvids - I think you got the bad end of the bargain. Regular Python is much better for programming; the Monty Python just won't compile down to machine code. :)
