Man it's almost like you was reading my mind I was literally wondering if I should get a dual z setup because I just got the ender extender for the aquila and this video answered everything I wanted to know.
I do my best to go through each and every aspect that might be difficult, I'm glad it's paying off! Thank you for watching and for commenting, that helps the channel get better!
Great timing! My Creality dual-Z-axis upgrade arrived yesterday to add to the Aquila X2. I really appreciate the quality of information you've provided, all very clear. You have put a lot of thought into the practical steps. The closeups of the assembly are great. I have one refinement for levelling between the Z-motors that I plan to use. Complete the build as you describe but allow the second rod to freely rotate in its motor coupler: Rotate the first motor so it clicks on a full step and use Vernier callipers to measure the height between the frame and X-axis gantry at that point. Then rotate the second rod to get the same height on the other side. I will go back and double check the first height just in case things have moved. When level, then I'll tighten the coupler down. That way you don't risk having the second motor pitched mid-step when you set the height equal. That makes the magic numbers a lot more sense to me.
Thanks! I am glad this video was in time for your assembly! Please let me know how your method of leveling goes, it seems super smart. I once tried something very similar when I first got my CR10, but I found it just didn't work as well as I thought it would. The method I show in this video certainly works, as I've used it on my CR10 and others for a while now, but it just seems so 'unrefined'. I would love to hear how you method works, and if it turns out well for you I would add a section to the description demonstrating it. I would probably even make an article on my website so others can use it outside of this video. Let me know!
@@PrintsLeo3D The upgrade went really easily, I'm printing off a Z-height test piece atm. I tried my "clever" approach and it doesn't work😀. There is just too much friction in the coupler to finesse the heights to individual steps on each side with basic tools. I guess that is why upgrading the board to 5 drivers is the best solution with auto levelling. A few things I did not appreciate before the upgrade: * the Creality lead screw is heavier and is less flexible than my Aquila original (that has to be a good thing I guess as an overall stability improvement). * I was hoping to use the Prusa style max-Z brute force level but overall lost some height (about 5-10 mm) and the extruder hits the top bracket before both sets of wheels hit the top. I will try to set makes some end-stop blocks part way down on each side and set max height 240mm.
That's interesting and it's the same conclusion I came to myself. Yes multiple drivers makes the process so much easier as you could then just hard code a Gantry Level before each print and be on your way. Keep me posted on how the long term help of the mod goes, I love hearing the updates and the solutions! Also thank you for keeping updated! It would have been easy to perform the mod and go about your day, so I really appreciate you talking the time to inform me.
Thank you Karl! I put a lot of time into the videos, keeping them flow nicely and contain a lot of (correct) information. I'm always improving and comments like yours really make the whole time worth it. Thank you!
I really appreciate all the support you've given me! Not only for this video but whenever I have something come out I know you're always there hitting me with some kind words! I can't thank you enough!
Another great video on the Aquila, thank you. Your explanations are excellent and very useful, I always look forward to your next video because I learned so much. I sent a super thanks as everyone should who takes advantage of learning from your videos.
I get so nervous when I make these videos, I go over every detail to try and be as accurate, concise, and at the same time explain as much as I can. Thanks for these kind words, makes the sleepless nights worth it lol
@@PrintsLeo3D You shouldn't be nervous. I can't imaging the videos any better, you describe everything perfectly, then you go back an do a beautiful job editing, adding arrows, and it seems like you really focus on the viewer by explaining things in layman terms which is very important. Anyone watching your videos can easily duplicate what you do to get results and that's what I love about your videos. I would never have tried to add the automatic touch sensor by myself unless I had come across your video, after viewing it a couple of times I got the confidence to do it myself because you made something difficult seem so easy. I've worked many years in multimedia before I retired and I can tell you that the hard work you put into the video shows, everyone that views them can see that. Don't change a thing, you're doing a fantastic job. Voxelab SHOULD TAKE NOTICE!!!
Hi Leo, I have got the original version of the Voxelab Aquila. Been great sofar. But now only 6 months after getting it, The right unsupported gantry side has indeed dipped by at least 1 mm maybe even 1.5 mm. I have lost a very long time done important print which had been fine for 45 hours and had only 2 hours left before finishing! And the filament was a pricey one, So I have now brought a upgrade kit for the Ender 3 V2 by UniTak3D as the Creality version although the same as this kit was too pricey. I will be using your video here to re-fit the new duel z axis rod to the Aquila. On a side note I set up the new FL SUN QQ-S Pro Delta I got awhile back to do that same print that was lost on the Aquila as I need the print and I still have to fit the 2nd z axis on the Aquila. That print was just 1 hour for finishing a 20 hour printing and it failed as well, the 1st half of the two half's of the model had loosened from the round PEI bed even though I had done a big 8 lines Brim and allot of supports between the two upstanding half's on the bed. That was a huge upset. and means I may have to buy another 3rd spool of the pricey filament used as not enough left to try a 3rd time as the Delta does not have a run out sensor ( and this is meant to be a Pro version? ) I possibly could do a 3rd try if I can print a case for a run out sensor for the Delta? ( I have a spare end switch unit un-used ) Then with it I could change the empty spool done to the rest of the other spool which has about 2/3rd's left. Really, this hobby can be a huge pain. I have to now also fit a new better leveling sensor I just got to the Tronxy X5SA I have so it can tram the bed and be usable. And in August I been told by Elegoo that my new Neptune 3 FDM printer be delivered after I got it on a pre-launch sale over a month ago. That printer is a full auto leveling one no bed adjustment screws on the bed. We will see how I got this all sorted out later I guess?
Hey Colin! This is an amazing comment! I opened a new google doc just to make sure I answered it well enough lol! Yea the gantry sagging (and ruining prints) is probably for a lot of 3D printers. The one great benefit of the Aquila is that there are two screws (by the cold end extruder) that you have access to. You can loosen the X axis and then re-level it and tighten it again! Of course that isn’t always the answer for you which is why I made this video lol Glad you were able to find an inexpensive version too. I have used UniTaks heat breaks before and I would say while they are slightly cheaper than normal there were no gross production omissions. So I think you’re on the right track! If you need any step by step help while you are actually setting up your Dual Z please drop by the Discord (discord.gg/y7gBWHbd) and message me. I am more than happy to give someone one help. Also I always love hearing how people are doing with their printers. FL SUN QQ… I was so close to buying that!!! I hope you’ve gotten some good prints off of it. Whenever a print nears the finish and fails it’s always so upsetting, especially when the filament you are using is so costly. Filament runout sensors can certainly help in that regard. I find myself in the same scenario sometimes, I have 20% filament left on a spool and I know it won’t be able to finish a big project. It’s a tough decision what to do with it, but a filament sensor can definitely help make that decision easier. You seem like you have a lot of printers! Glad you are still going with this hobby because as you said it can be really tough. I really would love for you to join the Discord I linked above, because we chat daily about cool prints, fixes, and some upgrades we can do. It’s an awesome place to just get your 3d printing fix! I have a Bambu labs X1 carbon on the way too and I cannot wait until it gets here! Also I have to know, what is this multi day print you are trying to print? And what filament? Good luck with everything, I hope to see you in the Discord, and thanks for leaving such an awesome comment !!
Saving the best for last! The second part is coming this week (Wednesday or Thursday) and then the 3rd part shouldn't be long thereafter. I am going to record the voice over stuff for part 3 this week, which is the bulk of the work. I'm excited to show it off!
Anyone else upgrade just for fun my printer prints perfect now but I got a z axis coming tomorrow hope it goes well. A printer without issues is no fun 😊
Well Kevin to be honest this mod was basically 'for fun' for me as this printer was printing nice before I performed this. That being said the install is pretty straightforward and there's no firmware or slicer changes, so there's no messy work there. Overall I think it should be nice and easy for you and I am sure it will be printing well after your done. Then give it a few weeks, I'm sure an issue will arise somewhere lol thanks for watching and commenting! Good luck during the mod!
I would agree on larger machines that are carrying more weight it would probably be wise to evaluate this sort of setup. With the weight of our gantry, and the mechanical load also being split between two motors I think it's an ok solution. I've had this setup for many months now and have printed probably around 1000 hours with it and haven't had any issues as of yet, but I'll keep on printing!
The legend themselves in the comments!!! Thanks for the compliment it means a lot. Saving the best for last in Part 3!! The discord link seems to always give mean issue, I try and set it to never expire but I can't tell if it's working or not. I am going to look into it now. Thanks for the heads up! edit: apparently RU-vid didn't like the silly bubbles I had surrounding the link. Again, thanks for letting me know!
Hector this is really great idea. Lately I have been seeing more and more people asking about or having problems with PETG. I'll will absolutely make a video shortly. Might start it off as a minute long RU-vid Short/TikTok video, just to get the info out there and then make a longer dedicated video to this topic. Thanks for the recommendation, and I promise it will be coming !!!
whats up Leo, great video. i have one question though. i had the same issue where my right side was higher than me left but when i disable the stepper motors and do exactly as you do to move the right side down it also forces the other side to move. and when i let go its like a spring and it moves back to how it was. what could be the issue? im only off 1-2mm
Hey Ruben! If you need to try and accommodate a large gap it can be a little fiddly and frustrating. Sounds like you're doing the correct procedure, and yes it happens sometimes that the motors do feel like springs and 'bounce' back in place. I just want to make sure you're holding in place (with your hand) the motor you aren't trying to calibrate. My suggestion is to try and make small adjustments to the side that is higher. If you try making a large adjustment all at once you'll likely get that rubber band effect. So let's say you do have a 1-2mm gap, try only adjusting the far side by 0.5mm(or so). Then re-engage the stepper motors and see how far you've closed the distance. If you try and adjust a gap too large all at once it's going to be tough. I'd give that a try (making smaller adjustments a little at a time) and see if you have success, if not let me know and I'll see if there's something else you can try.
did you not see that z on the board is 4 pins and the cable is 6 pins using the cable from the kit i had the z going up not down you need to cut the socket cable and rewire it
I'm so sorry if I didn't explain this well enough. The cable that came with my kit was able to be plugged into the wire that was already connected to the original Z stepper, I didn't need to plug anything into the mainboard at all. I only opened up the mainboard to show what the process would look like if you had a different cable. So when I am demonstrating which port to plug it into I am only using my cable as an example, which is not the correct size.
Thank you!!! Its tough going back and staying current but it helps when someone comes through and lets me know! I need to get you on the payroll lol thanks!
@@PrintsLeo3D I know we are from different worlds but I do a podcast mostly about FPV but I'd like to have you on if you'd like and we can talk about 3d stuff. If that sounds good give me your availability and time zone :)
That sounds really cool, and I love being a part of all different avenues that 3d printing can reach. If you want, send me an email at printsleo3d@gmail.com My availability is all over the place but maybe we can set something up. I am on EST , as Iive in NY.
Haha! I've been trying so hard to get this video out for a long time. I wish there were more hours in the day! Thanks for showing up! I know when a new video releases you're always going to be there to drop a nice comment or two! Thank you so much!
I am going to try and get some editing done before the bigb day so I can hit the ground running once we get back! I have some exciting 3d video ideas after these dual z videos get finished.
