That would be fantastic if I could actually print anything, stock ender 3 extruder assembly broke, ordered upgrade still won't print because of bad gear
I'm not sure what you're referring to? I'm sure there was a reason it maybe I just moved it to a different page? Was it in the description of this video or on my website? Edit: oh I see you mentioned the website. I didn't delete it so it should be there. I had an issue of the weekend where the website went down so maybe it's something to do with that. I'll try and get onto it now and find out. Edit edit: try it today or tonight I think I resolved it.
I really appreciate you taking the time to write a sarcastic and hateful message to someone who is just trying to put some good out there for people. If you ever wonder why small creators don't grow or stop altogether it's from some of the negativity that seeps through the screen of flippant messages like this. I can appreciate these messages though, and I take them as a point of improvement. I just hope in the future you understand that what you say to people, and more importantly how you say it, is an important part of communicating within a community and helping it grow.
Great topic for a newcomer to Klipper 😀 I 've an issue because the center line is totally empty 😱 I reduced the fast speed at 75mm/s but it doesn't change anything. My bed level is Ok and i could print some pieces these days. Any idea ???
If you go to my website (printsleo3d.com) there is a Klipper section on the header. Once you get there scroll down to the macros section and click it to be brought to the macros page. There you should see all of my basic macros that you can copy and paste. This way you only have to add the name of the macro you want to call in Cura's start gcode section. I hope this was helpful. If not let me know.
@@PrintsLeo3D Dude, you're a legend. Thanks a lot. Now I know a bit about what Klipper actually does to my printer and what slicer settings I need. Thanks again.
Everything went fine unit you have to enter bed_mesh_profile in gcode_macro_start_print but there is no gcode_macro_start_print?? Am i missing something???
The start_print macro is just a group of commands you want to run at the start of your prints. There is no default start_print macro from Klipper as you'll want to adjust it according to your printer and what features you want to use before each print. If you want a very basic start_print macro to begin using you can go to my website. At the top of the website there's a section for Klipper and then from there scroll down to Macros and you'll be brought to another page. That Macro page has a few different macros you can copy and paste into your config to use. As always remember to save and restart after you make changes to printer.cfg so the changes are applied. Good luck!
hi, i am using you gold mine to install and caliber my ender3 s1 pro. have few questions, 1. i am using cura but i have disabled acceration in cura as recommended so from where can i get the inner wall acceleration as in my print.cfg there is only one acceleration, its not broken into inner and outer. 2. how to test printer max speed using cura and klipper. thanks for all your videos.
I haven't used Cura in a while and that's one of the reasons why. When I was using it I don't remember there being an option to differentiate the accel speeds, which is why I moved over to Orca slicer. I should probably put out a video showcasing all of the awesome features it has. Not only does it allow you to customize the speeds/accels for different parts of the print, but it also gives you access to some great tools that can help determine where your maximum rates our (mostly flow but that will dictate speed). Of course Orca being an offshoot of Bambu>Prusa>Slic3r there are mote options out there that work too
@@PrintsLeo3D can to do a video of how to use orca slicer for a beginner who uses klipper. i installed it but it looked confusing for me bcz wasnt sure what to do with few settings as they are in klipper too. but an overall explantion and setup would help alot. also in cura it has Acceleration but i think when running with klipper we have to turn it off. it also can control acc on inner, outer, infill etc. if i use this from cura then should i disable the klipper acc. thanks
A really informative video. I have a N32 Aquila that I'd like to turn into a high-quality miniature printer. Is there any benefits to using a Pi over something like a Creality Sonic Pad? It would seem like a Sonic Pad would make this process slightly easier.
It would definitely seem like that lol unfortunately the problem with 3rd party companies using Klipper firmware is they never use it properly or give you untethered access. Also, they curate the devices they sell to their machines, so if it's not a Creality device you're using it's an uphill battle. So you'll end up getting a very sloppy version of Klipper that is hard to use and will likely frustrate you. If you did want to use a 3rd party device I would recommend the BigTreeTech Pad 7. It allows much easier and more complete access to Klipper and will ultimately give you a better experience. Alternatively you could use any device that runs Linux, it doesn't need to be a pi. A lot of people are using older laptops or even tv boxs (like the Inovato Quadra) to run Klipper with ease. Whichever way you go good luck! I would strongly suggest against the Creality Pad.
I have the same accelerometer and I had to reflash today due to updating klipper. I ran into issues when flashing the firmware but was able to fix it by remove the -v in the stm32flash command.
Thanks for the information! That's why I always tell people to check the comments because a lot of people's issues have fixes already from people who contributed. Thanks!
Great! I really need to come back to this small series and do a bit of an overhaul with all of the newer offerings from Cura and other companies. I'm glad this was still able to help you.
That's so unfortunate. It's really starting to get upsetting the number of manufacturers that are taking advantage of what Klipper can offer, but then lock down it's full potential so they can call it their own "custom" versions. Hope you find a way to take advantage of this someday. Thanks for watching
First, thank you for this video!!!! I have a possibly dumb question, as I’m a total newbie when it comes to 3D Printing. I picked up an Aquila X2 and recently decided to get a Creality direct drive extruder. It was delivered yesterday, but it’s not the pro version. It’s just the standard. Are there any important differences in the firmware you linked and/or the installation process? Given that our direct drive is just the standard and not the pro version? Thanks in advance!
Thank you, this video helped a lot. The only difference with a BTT version of Klipper is: it does not have a Tune menu but a HeightMap menu with a home and calibrate button...
Thanks for the info and I appreciate you watching and commenting!! I know there can be some name changes between the different front ends and also klipperscreens and variants, and I thank you for pointing that out. I always say to check the comments for instances just like this !
I'll see what I can do to help. Was there any updates or changes you've made that you can associate with it's usage failure? Also are there any error codes on the front end for the camera ?
@Adventist1997 is it possible to download the crowsnest.log and send it to me. You can't send it through here but either the Discord (link in description) or email me printsleo3d@gmail.com
@@PrintsLeo3D I got it to pop up disconnected from webcam. But how do I download the crown logs? I could probably screenshot them and post it in discord.
You're welcome! These videos were sort of meant as a quick look of what the printer can do, so I'm glad it was useful for you. I should have way more info for you on the next one in a few weeks .
With much appreciation but the workflow has changed the last 2 years. I think it’s time to follow the new technologies and advancements. But thanks for the effort to explain very thoroughly.
I used pcbway once. I got a very poorly printed 3 d part and a lot of resistance when I brought up the poor quality. This reflects on you putting your name behind them.
I don't know if the singular (poor) experience you had is really a precedence to cast some blame to me. I can understand not being happy with PCBWay and by extension feeling some bad feelings when you see a 30 second spot on this video where I talk about what they offer. I hope they do better and if you want to send me your information and invoice number I'll send a message to the people I talk to. But in the the grand scheme of things I'm a small fish (basically no fish at all lol), and you may have better luck if some of the bigger names who are sponsored by them help you get your issue resolved. All that being said thank you for watching, and I appreciate the feedback.
I was just letting you know that you’re propping up a deceptive corporation for personal monetary gain. I would never do business with them again, but I really appreciate your offer to help out. If you would like more info about my experience with them so you could better understand whom you put your name behind. I would be willing to elaborate.
Great to hear! That's been my impression so far, I'm hoping that in the Klipper/mainsail side of things they open it up. I'm dying to add OctoEverywhere into this so I can view it when I'm not at the home. Thanks for watching, commenting, and the kind words 🙏
Hi there i have an Aquila x3 that im trying to upgrade to a BL touch i have followed your video and have installed the firmware but now i can not find on the screen where to input the X y Z offsets any pointers would be helpfull regards Ken
It's been a long while since I've used Marlin firmware, but I believe there is a settings menu (maybe called machine) and then through that menu there should be an offsets option to set up all of those values.
What is the point of this if I have a BLTouch? Isn't my bltouch doing all the heavy lifting? I can only think of stepper longevity from not having to move the Z axis up and down so much. If I don't care about that, should I just avoid this?
This is a great question and a very common misconception. Both of these techniques work hand in hand in order to give you a great first layer. Bed screws adjust helps to align the nozzle and the bed along the same plane. This is commonly referred to as leveling. The bltouch does not level. It really is just a measuring device. The bltouch takes height measurements of the bed and creates a mesh to use while printing. It doesn't really ever "level" the bed. Also the bltouch is only accurate within a small window of deviation (0.2-0.4mm), so the more "level" your bed is the more accurate the bl touch will be. In short the bl touch never 'levels' your bed, it takes measurements and tries to make your first layer flat. Bed screws adjust does level your bed, and in turn allows the bl touch to work optimally.
I have been 3d printing for 9+ years and have built all my printers (kit and off the shelf including a 1st gen FLSUN) and while you want to SSH into it and I want to SSH into it... The newer breed of 3d print users do not and should not. They would mess something up (not all of them of course) and cause support issues and possibly even destroy parts of the printer. I guess I get why the manufacturers are locking them down. Maybe there should be a YES, you can SSH into it but loose support at that point? Good quick 1st look. Boy that thing is loud! lol
Yea this is loud lol I saw this morning FLSun emailed about the noise, and they may have a possible solution to quiet this down a little. Something I'm going to look at when I can. As for access I do agree giving too much control to newer users could be a calamity, and I think developer's solution to not allow front end components to be updated is a smart move (mainsail, fluidd, Klipper, Moonraker, etc). I think allowing SSH access is a safer solution because generally those users who know how to SSH into their machines, and have a want to do so, are responsible enough to not make any grievous errors. We'll see in the future what FLSun decides to do, I'd love to be able to hook up OctoEverywhere on this printer so I can use it and monitor it while I'm away from home. Feels like that's how I've been doing most of my printing nowadays 🫤
This printer is running Klipper. Klipper is GPL v3, which means that any company using it has to offer the end-user the mechanisms allowing him to replace any part of the software by a version modified by the user. That's a legally binding requirement from GPL v3, so all these companies not opening up access to Klipper and the version of Klipper source code should be sued, period.
@MisterkeTube yea I completely agree with the sentiment and it's going to be something I talk about in the full review. As for the legal workings I can't speak to specifics because I don't know how the law is worded and works and that's where we get into the weeds , and where companies probably feel emboldened. I don't know what sort of precedent there is for a timeline of presenting said firmware. If a company holds their printer in 'beta' release or some other similar title will that be something not quite covered by the license. How they maws get considered and applied to companies working overseas. And also the fact that Klipper likely has no resource to pursue any sort of legal actions. They are a community driven entity (thanks to Kevin O'Connor) that would probably be more hurt then helped by taking time/resources to pursue such an endeavor. That all being said I don't like it and it's something I am going to talk to FLSUN about and cover in the video.
@@PrintsLeo3D There are law firms focussing in class actions, earning their money as a percentage of what they get out of the case they are making for the group of victims they represent. Why is no law firm tackling the open-source infringements in the same way? There must be some money to make there and a couple of precedents would be sufficient to convince companies to just adhere to the license, period.
Yea I agree it would be nice for someone to make a move and create some precedent for future cases. Right now we're seeing Stratasys use their legal and monetary forces to try and bully some companies around, it would be nice for one of the little guys to have the same access to those avenues.
I'm supposed to use a cpap machine because of my lung/breathing issues and i can attest that they are freaking loud and its one of the reasons why i dont use it. I doubt theres a way to quiet it down unless you can put it in some sort of box with sound proofing
I know lol I love telling people they are using a CPAP machine in this printer because it always gets a laugh. There's a few drastic means of quieting this down, and this morning FLSun emailed with some information, so I'm hoping we can find a way!
Zoomy!! Thank you as always for showing up. I'm slowly but surely finding more time for myself and my printers. Hoping I have found a schedule that lets me keep making more of these 😊 thanks for the unwavering and timeless support!
You're always the best man! I appreciate you taking the time out for your busy schedule to drop by and show me some love. I've been out of the game for a bit so I'm a little rusty lol gotta work out the kinks for the next videos
@@PrintsLeo3D you did a great job showing all the components and explaining everything. It’s like a livestream but in video format. Good stuff, relatable.
I don't have a model link because all I do is import 5 cubes, then shrink them to a single layer high (0.2mm for me in the video) and then spread them out to the different corners and center of the build plate. Nice and easy!
Hi, I am a beginner and I watch your videos which I really like because the explanations are very well done. I modified my Aquila S2 with sprite pro and added CR-Touch. Here I am now on the settings. I'm trying to adjust the e-step but find I have a lot of lag. I ask for 100mm extrusion and get 22mm. My question is: is it normal to have such a large lag? so I have to put 422.7 in the settings knowing that the base setting was 93?
Yes this is common when going from the single geared default extruded to a dual gear extruder (which now incorporates gear ratios). If you are adjusting your esteps and not seeing any changes make sure you are saving the new estep values from the menu before performing any new tests.
Thanks for the fantastic videos! Do you have anything for E-step calibration (re: Microswiss NG) or flow rate? So far I've used your bed leveling guide and am going to calibrate input shaping next.
Thanks for watching and great suggestions for videos. I have an estep calibration, but it's for Marlin firmware. I am going to add both of those videos to my 'to-do' list, although I will say for flow I follow a more aesthetic approach now and not so scientific. I have sort of eschewed the normal flow block tests and just use the visual appearance of prints to adjust flow as I see necessary. Thanks for watching my the videos, I appreciate it !
@@PrintsLeo3D Thanks for the reply and the information. However, isn’t flow rate important for wall thickness and to make sure snap cases fit together properly, etc?
Wall thickness and flow rate do go hand in hand , but lately I've found running my normal flow rates and then adjusting tolerances (usually within 0.2) has been a quicker and better work flow
Hi, first of all, great video, everything very clearly described and explained. I applied this method to my Elegoo Neptune 4 Max and added 2 adjustment points. The only deviation I made was not using a probe, I centered the nozzle above the 6 adjustment points. I ran the "Screws_tilt_adjust" tool 3 times in a row with the final result - at 5 points it was 0.1 and at 1 point 0.0, so I wisely left it at that. Afterwards I did a "Bed Level Calibration" test and it was perfect. From now on this is my way to level. Many thanks for posting this method on RU-vid.
Thank you so much for taking time to write such a detailed comment and letting me know this worked. Much appreciated, I'm glad you found me and I was able to help!
This is video is dealing specifically with Klipper firmware. So all the steps and commands I cover require that specific firmware (which j would highly recommend lol). I know Marlin firmware does offer some amount of input shaping , although I don't know what the breadth of it is. That being said the concepts cover (ie. How input shaping works) is applicable in a general sense among any machine using it.
Oh wow that's awesome to hear, thank you!! These videos take me a lot of time to make and whenever anyone leaves a comment like thiabit truly means the world to me. Thank you!
Thanks so much I’ve just subscribed this is the best summary of the whole z offset process I’ve seen . You have a talent for making complex things less . Einstein would be proud :)) I’ve had an ended s1 pro for a few years with kipper and I’m off tomorrow to install the adaptive bee mesh Kamp see how that goes !! Thanks again
Thank you so much, you're too kind!! If my videos can help people better understand Klipper and get the most out of it then I am a happy man! I appreciate you taking time to leave a comment and let me know how this helped! I really appreciate it!
I'm not sure what part of the video you're referring to, but this modification does much more than adding a bed probe. This will turn a Bowden style system into a direct extrusion system, which can then be equipped with a bed probe.
The BEST tutorial on how to set up BL/CR Touch for Klipper! After I set the Z Offset then did multiple bed mesh levels adjusting my bed till I was happy with it. I had Zero need to do a live Z Offset! Bed level print came out beautiful! Thank you!
