To be honest, I prefer the way SRAM does it than Shimano in this instance since SRAM has offset chainrings. If you buy a 55mm chainline crankset you can buy a 6mm offset chainring for 52mm chainline and vice versa. With Shimano cranksets, you're stuck with the intended chainline of the crankset since they don't offer offset chainrings. Only a few third parties sell 6mm offset chainrings for Shimano: PassQuest (questionable chinese brand but looks pretty nice), Alugear (large, gravel style chainrings), and Garbaruk (reputable but expensive). Basically with SRAM you can choose your desires Q-Factor with the crankset then buy the correct offset chainring to match.
Quite possibly the only video on YT to address the differences. Well done. I have the new X0 Transmission cranks mated to regular X01 drivetrain. I have the 3mm spacer on NDS and 7.5mm spacer on DS. Since my chainline is technically still 52mm, my new cranks are pushed outboard 3mm as they’re MTB Wide. I was able to find an 8 bolt 6mm offset chainring to achieve the 52mm chainline. I think currently the only manufacturer that makes 8 bolt 6mm offset chainrings is Taiwan based cycling manufacturer Croder Cycling. I have their 34T ring.
You can actually get the Transmission crankset in a non-wide spec as well, seems to work fine on most bikes, since virtually no bikes are made specifically for the 55mm chain line yet. And also - No worries if you buy the "regular" dub bottom bracket, since if you buy a transmission crankset or groupset, it comes with the appropriate spacers. Had to do all this research myself when installing the groupset early last year, when no good videos like this existed. Always good to see you provide some awesome info to the people!
Yeah, it doesn't matter. It's more about frame clearance and chainring clearance. No bike is the same. So the difference between 52mm - 55mm is not a thing at all.
@@hucknroll6723 Yeah its more than 3mm, since normally a bike that runs Eagle still runs 3mm offset, and t-type ships with 3mm offset aswell, and the crank is 5-6mm~ wider. But as you said, doesnt matter. I run T-type with 55mm chainline on a bike that shipped with eagle, and it works just fine
@@esshoul you can run 3mm offset on 52mm chainline as long as your ring doesn't hit the frame. The offset is just to clear the frame on some bikes. The transmission will run fine regardless of the chainline. You need around 3mm from the frame to the chainring.
If you cannot find a DUB wide bottom bracket with correct spacers, or already have a standard DUB bottom bracket, but don't have the corrrect spacers that you need for a DUB wide spindle on your new SRAM transmission cranks, then SRAM do sell a DUB Bottom Bracket Spacer Kit. The kit includes 2.0, 4.5, 5, 6.0, 6.5, 7.5, 8.5, 9.0, 10.5 & 2 pieces of 2.5, 3.0, 5.5MM) & 2 standard BSA 68 AL spacers, so should have what you need. The kit has SRAM part number: SSP8002002 and costs 15 EUR/GBP/USD, so would be cheaper than a new bottom bracket that you don't need.
I've modified the chainline on my Epic with a combination of a 6mm offset ring and a bag of spacers you should be able to find at any bikeshop and be a lifetime supply of spacers, all possible thiknesses. Meaning that if you have the bag, just buy whatever BB is cheaper.
Wouldn’t it be so much simpler to just sell one bottom bracket and include all the possible spacers for each crank? It would be pennies more per unit but make inventory management so much easier. lol.
Great info. If only my LBS knew about this, or cared. My LBS DUB BB (LBS installed as part of a warranty upgrade) had wrong spacers (bt TBH, worked) with too much preload. Left bearing completely stuffed
I just replaced a 15 year old Shimano bottom bracket last summer; February, or April of 2008 to July 2023. I bought it the same time I bought my M770 XT HallowTek 2 crank. All this time, I thought it was an XT bottom bracket; it turns out it's just a $35.00🍁 one🤨😆
Thanks for the video! Exactly what in dealing with at the moment, I am transferring a dub bb from my gravel bike to an epic HT to make a drop bar hardtail with a short rigid fork. Picked up a used GX t type crankset to use with my 40t chainring, as a 40t wouldn’t fit a set of 3 bolt boost cranks, being 8 bolt, and not to mention the frame not having enough clearance. I suppose a Rival or Force AXS wide crank would solve that. But I went wider and will use my AXS chainring of 40t, with an 8mm offset. This should dial me in for an appropriate chainline, and enough clearance. Since I don’t have the appropriate spacers, I have 3-D printed some, and will let you know how that goes!
One thing that wasn't quite clear in the video: a regular MTB DUB crankset (113 mm spindle) + 3mm offset is Boost (52 mm) chainline. And since the DUB WIDE is 6 mm wider (119 mm, 3 mm each side), a 3 mm offset chainring produces a 55 mm chainline. Correct? Another thing that is not clear from SRAM's info is that DUB WIDE printed on the crank spindle does not distinguish between Road wide and MTB! Of course you can figure out that a Red/Force/Rival/Apex Wide cranksets is Road and XX/XO/GX/NX cranksets are MTB, but SRAM really should not have applied "DUB WIDE" to both of them because MTB Wide has a longer spindle. DUB Road Wide will work with T-type drivetrain only on a Road bike (142 mm rear hub). DUB MTB Wide will work with T-type on a Boost spaced bike typical of most MTBs today (148 mm rear hub). I measured a DUB Road Wide spindle at 113 mm or so (which is what it looks like in this video, but he calls it "114"). If it's the case that a DUB Road Wide spindle is the same length as a DUB MTB **non**-Wide spindle then I blame SRAM for the inherent confusion. They should have called it the two DUB Wides "DUB 113" and "DUB 119" to avoid confusion. Or DUB Road, DUB Wide, and DUB XWide. And sure, almost nobody is trying to put a MTB crankset on a road bike, but I know that this is still going to cause confusion for those edge cases or DIYers trying to understand what is compatible.
Awesome video as always! Does DUB Wide have 3mm offset chaining as stock for 55mm CL? So if I wanted to run 52mm CL on a Dub Wide crank I would install a 6mm offset chainring would that be correct?
I recently went through some confusion with a 157 frame. Evil specifies 3 and 7.5mm spacers and Super Boost+ cranks (I had no idea that there are different BB's). Even if I got the "wide" BB...it still would not come with the necessary spacers. When I tried to install the SB+ crank...there was too much slack with 3 and 7.5mm spacers. The SB+ crank needs 4.5 and 9mm spacers. The spacers they specify is for Dub Wide and not the SB+ cranks. Anyhoo...I had to buy a pack of Dub spacers for $26 to get the 4.5 and 9mm spacers. No bike shop within a 30 minute drive had the 9mm spacer.
I bought a normal one for my gx t-type and Found out the hard way about these specific bottom brackets. Luckily I had a couple 1 and 2mm spacers laying around so I could still make it work. But wtf SRAM.. just include all the spacers in one package please..
To add even MORE "simplification", there is Super Boost + BB with 4.5 , 6.5 or 9.0 mm spacers and let's not forget the Cannondale Ai DUB cranks with different spindles lengths for the 73 and 83 mm BB shells and the matching spacer kits 2.5 and 10.5 mm for 73 mm BB and 4.5 mm spacer for those of us lucky enough to own bikes with the 83 mm BB shell. (FORGET Quark Power meters on Ai spaced bikes!) Thankfully it appears Cannondale has moved away from the 83 mm Ai spaced BB's finally in order to allow T-type transmissions to be used on the newer bikes. What bothers me the most is that SRAM has seen fit to NOT sell just a spacer kit, nor has any aftermarket company began to produce spacers. It's just ANOTHER glaring example of the bike "industry" and the so called "standards" they make up in order to part us with our money.
@@LoveMTB Sadly so. What I would really like to see is the bike manufacturers allow the consumer more options of purchasing just bike frames. Then I can build a bike with the components I wish to use. For instance , the insanity of 175 mm cranks on nearly EVERY bike from the factory. Just give me a compatibility list of parts and I will use what I choose.
Seems the chinese SENICX and other branded cranks are based on the Stylo mould - got these instead of original NX's. Upgraded from SX / PowerSpline. Not sure if the rumours of abandoned Truvativ / SRAM factory along with tooling are correct or not?
I was looking for some info about DUB Ai (cannondale spindle) and didnt find any info if these cranks can be fitted onto 73 or 92 mm bottom brackets...
Thank you for this clarification! Have you had any experience with the cranks not spinning freely when you add a spacer on the non drive side? I tried to loosen the preload adjuster on the non drive side but still was not spinning smoothly. Thanks!
I have not had that issue. But one quick test is tighten the preload adjuster all together, then install crank and you should have a bit of play in the spindle?
I was looking exactly for this. Thanks! I see I need the DUB (not wide), since I need spacers 3mm and 4.5mm (since I will attach the ISCG Tab mount which is 3mm wide) for the Ibis Ripmo V2S. this bike has 55 mm chainline. Is there a NX or GX crankset that will fit to this setup?
Right now I'm looking forward to buying the new GX t-type and I'm a bit confused. I now have the old cable operated GX with DUB bottom bracket on my bike. Do I need a new DUB Wide bottom bracket and if so can you share a link where can I buy it for cheeper than from Sram directly or I can keep the old bottom bracket and buy some spacers if so can you share a link where can I buy those for cheeper than from Sram directly? Please let me know. Thanks!
Surely it would be better to have the cups spaced out farther than to put spacers outside the cups. The farther outboard the bearings are, the stiffer it’d be.
I'm looking to install Transmission on my bike, BB is 92, it's pressfit but I see a couple of BB's from SRAM, one says 55mm chainline BB - guessing that is the one I need?
Hello. your videos are really helpful and appreciable. can you please make a video on shimano grx 822 derailleur comparing with xt m8100 derailleur. I am really confused if I can use 40 or 42t chainring with xt m8100 derailleur or should I upgrade to grx 822. Thanks in advance.
@@LoveMTB actually I'm planning to use shimano m8100 shifter with xt 10-51 cassette and 40 or 42 chainring, though it would be helpful for others if you can advice what are the compatible options we have
Thanks for this video! Finally clarified. And I just noticed there is a Sram BB spacerkit available: 11.6418.002.002 which include all the spacers you need if you have bought a brand new 000/SL BB instead of a 015/Wide...
@@LoveMTB thank you sir, i bought it. You also going for the XX new style chainring? I wonder which Q factor have you chosen for yourself. have a good one!
Very good information, just the other day I ordered an oval ring 30T with offset 0 for Trek Slash 8 22, but then I noticed that on NDS I have a spacer of 3 and on DS I have 7.5, so from here it turns out that I have the wide version with chainline of 55 and for 52 I need the shorter length of the spindle? Not wide!
@@LoveMTB I want 52 chainline and I have the 55mm ! 3mm with 7.5mm spacers! And regardless of how I change the spacers, I still have an extra piece of axle that needs to be plugged with something. That means the spindle is too long and i need a shorter one! it all started with a video of a guy who, having the exact same bike, mounted 165 arms and a 52 chainline made from 55. He says that on the NDS side he has no spacer and on the DS 3mm with a chainring of 30th 0 offset, and with 3mm offset is hitting the frame. He just forgot to mention how long the spindle is!
@@LoveMTB yes! This would be a simple solution but I don't know if it will have enough distance not to touch the frame! By the way I want a oval 30 chainring. And I have a feeling that it will touch the chainstay! But I think a 4.5 spacer with a 3mm offset chainring is like a 7.5 with a 6mm and see if it works . Thanks 👍!
If you put your new 0mm offset ring on current cranksset you'll effectively create 58mm chainline, rather bad. To keep the chainline at 55mm with 0mm offset ring you need to buy new cranks with 52mm chainline and only use 4.5mm spacer on drive side
If i already have a 2021 x01 DUB crankset. Should i not worry about anything and just buy the crank with any QFACTOR? thanks in advance! this thing is insanely complicated.
@@LoveMTB mr love MTB. if i have a X01 crank right now. Its a 2021. boost on a trek slash. Is this directly compatible with X0 TRANSMISSION CRANKSET? in terms of being able to install it perfectly.?
@@ignaciosevil2157 you mean transmission? It should work just fine. If you want the 55 mm chainline look for an aftermarket SRAM 3-bolt 0 mm offset chainring and you’re set!
@@LoveMTB Im not really worrying about Chainline right now, im worrying about the fact that im not 100% sure if it will be compatible. Could it happen that the Spindle size ends up not being compatible or the bb Size? Or is it that if its DUB it will just work?
@@LoveMTB Ive read that the Chainline will be from factory compatible and if not easy fix. I understand that i can go T type crank and mantain 12 speed x0 classic system (non AXS OR t type) With that old 3MM chainline.
Thank you so much for your deep dive! I would like to drive the XX SL chainring on my Road RED DUB Crank. :) Pressfit 86.5 Road not Wide. Does anyone know if 0mm or 3mm Offset of the chainring is better in this case? Or if its even possible with the chainline?
Thanks. DUB uses 3mm chainrings for 52 mm chainline, and 6 mm offset for 49 mm/ non Boost frames. In your case I would say 3 mm u less you want the bias more towards the smaller sprockets in the back?
Thanks for your answer. I will go with the 3mm Offset. It seems that the chainline with DUB Road is 45, so for my understanding I get closer to the default chainline with slight bias to the smaller sprockets.
So if i want put t-type drivetrain with my crank dub wersion i have tu replace only chainring from my previous 3mm offset to O offset? Is that correct?
While i appreciate the "standardization" introduced with dub, the design itself is atrocious for a wet climate / riding in dirt. Bearing balls are just too tiny to last long, the plastic spacers, and a plastic preload ring, located on the rotating shaft are just a joke. I had no idea how to wash/clean my bike with a dub bb, and eventually it would always start grinding asking for an early maintenance. Shimano-like 24mm cranks on the opposite work just fine (when they don't crack due to a shimano manufacturing defect, lol).
I still hate every BB standard there is because they are not the same. I have 2 bikes with dub I have no complaints since I didn't need spacers but if you do 💀
I have a Boost Quarq power meter that I use with some XX1 cranks. Do you know if it would be possible to use that power meter if I got the T-type transmission?
I'm using a Sram Rival 1x 12 speed crankset, according to the document, the 1x setup only have wide BB. So , could I replace the current Rival with a standard Sram Red crankset (non-wide)?
Yes you can, so long as the chainring or crank arm does not contact the frame my moving inboard by 2.5mm. That’s pretty easy to measure before ordering anything.
Is a 1mm offset chainring better as the 3mm? I have some in mine parts box, if you say that these give a better chainline. Than i goning to install that one 😁
@@LoveMTB in youre video you say that 0mm offset is better than 3mm. I Bought by accident 1mm offset chainrings. So my question is, is the 1mm offset a bit better than the original 3mm?
FOr what kind of cranks? I said that a 0 mm offset chainring gives you 55 mm chainline with a standard DUB crankset. Thats not better or worse though 😊@@MichelvDijk
I have Canyon spectral with GX drivetrain with 55mm chainline. Huge problem is backpedal in lowest gear, chain just drops after half turn back, is this 55mm chainline issue or something else. So annoying on steep and tech climbs when you need to put your leg down and get back up
55mm chain line is typically recommended for super-boost spaced hubs. Spectral has a regular boost 12x148 rear hub, for which the "recommended" chain line is 51-53mm. Unless the tire size/frame geometry forces the use of super-boost chainline, their decision looks strange.
@LoveMTB I have an XT parallax rear hub I was thinking of using for a future wheel build (WTB DX18) but the freehub body is seized. Can they be fixed or should I just use an XT 6 bolt hub I also still have? The XT parallax hubs came with a "used" set of Mavic 517s SUP wheels I bought way....back... in 2000 or 2001.
@@glen3509 If a 23 year old hub is seized it's time for new hubs. Also, why build a wheel with ancient DX18 rims? You can easily get much better, lighter and stronger rims for less money.
I'm pretty sure Trek told me my frame won't work with 27.5". Trust me, if I could, I'd be going back to something from Mavic🤘🤘. Thanks for replying back 👍👍
Now you know why your LBS never has the right part for your bike. Too many options and cost to warehouse. I think the manufacturers are contributing to the downfall of the bike industry. So sad.
