The ten t was actually a great truck, Ross was not a gimmick, it was great likewise so is the 3.4! Nice video man! I chucked one in my jato, things fast as all hell!
Loving my .19t it screams! Now I keep having to replace drive train parts on my Nitro Rustler. For the issues reported it seems they have fixed the issue with the exhaust fit with a smaller spring, the bearings apparently are new type, the back plate has been changed to not bind with the OWB.
@@thebug4046 also its not diesel =). well its is, but back in ussr we used aviation-grade kerosene + oil mix (30% kerosene +20% oil + 50% diethyl ether). kerosene is real close to diesel chemically and can be used as a substitute (sometimes).
@@n00b247 same stuff I mix up! Easy starting and good performance for its size. And yeah it's not a true Diesel but it makes it easier to explain to people that don't understand
I just put 3.4 in my revo it deff not a drop in the cooling fins on bottom crank case never fit in revo motor mount had to dremel them off mine is 2.5 idk if 3.3 mount is any different but it bin nothing but great engines anything dynamite / losi like u said u no wat ur doing easy to run 10 plus gallons threw them
Nope old team associated rc10gt and a Traxxas tmaxx. I do own a rc group on Facebook nitro/diesel/gas rc and more if you want to check it out just 2 questions to answer I will add you in and you can post a video or pictures
Out of box the dynamite motor ran great for me. Just very little tuning a couple times. And I don’t really break in my engines. About 2 tanks of fuel running kinda easy then after that I’m driving normal. It’s lasted me 6 gallons so far. And runs the same as it did. It puts out good power
That's a pretty short life span I know many people that have almost 15 gallons brake in is critical for a engine that last and runs properly look at the Adam Drake method on RU-vid it will be a lot better for you
@@thebug4046 I’ve seen that method It probably works good. I’ve always done 2 easy tanks then I ride them hard after that. The only engine I’ve had fail on me is the trx2.5 with a broken piston skirt. I’ve had other engines last years with just 2 easy tanks . The dynamite engine I kept track of how much fuel I’ve used. Only been about 4 months and I’ve got about 6 gallons through it. I’m not expecting it to break anytime soon. I think what is most critical is warm up. Before running hard. But I like your videos man. You have some good info
@@curtsawchik1480 Here's the deal when you live in the United States go hard you guys pay nothing for stuff over there over here we pay triple what you guys pay so I really count to do things properly to get as much out of it as you possibly can
@@thebug4046 damn that sucks. I paid $109 for my dynamite engine. What’s it up there? And yeah I mean that’s just how I’ve always done my break in. And I’ve never really had issues. Maybe I’m just getting lucky who knows lol. But it’s been treating me pretty well. Maybe I’ll try one with the method you use see if I can notice a difference
@@curtsawchik1480 Yeah for sure spent a couple extra minutes and try what I was recommending or burn a few more tanks at least a couple on idol and take it easy for a bit but yeah your $109 there comes out to about a $148 here That's also plus shipping so about 165
Dang that losi 3.4 carb looks just like my can 16 carb. Are they the same. Theh look the same an ive taken them apart they look identical. Although i havent put micrometer to the needles but they look identical and it looks just like the carb off my check Starpoint 28 but smaller version
Hey, thanks for the info. I picked a Dynamite .19 up for my Jato; because of the exhaust "leak" problem that everyone mentions, can you recommend a header and pipe that will won't leak and will be a direct fit on the Jato?
@@thebug4046 I'm almost done with the install, but noticed something else. The backplate only has 3 screw holes for the traxxas pull start instead of 4. I see you put bolts on both sides.
@@Sassonic only 3 is needed. Don't stress about it. Give it a preheat before start up follow the Adam drake method for brake in with a quality fuel and everything will be just fine 😉
Can't really help you with that because my Altitude humidity temperature and fuel will all be completely different from where you are you have to tune for your fuel and environment That's kind of how it works with these things and you can't really just give somebody A tune it's not like a recipe for soup unfortunately doesn't really work that way go to nitro rc enthusiasts on Facebook post a video we can help you better
Hi, my Dynamite 19 has 3 head shims from the factory. That seems like a lot. For 20% nitro do you recommend leaving all 3 or is there some performance to be gained by removing 1 or 2 of them? Btw - I enjoy your videos!
Unless otherwise specified leave it as is no need to play with had shims if you're just running regular fuel like that you can even switch to 30% that's why those shims are in there so you don't have to change anything
@@thebug4046 Thanks again! I'm sorry to ask so many questions but you know so much about this stuff and those engines! If you have time, a couple of other questions I did have are: -I have been running the DYN2500 glow plugs but no one local has them. Are there any other plugs you recommend for that engine? -On the glow plug note, I have already killed 3 plugs on my first 12ish tanks. The dead plugs aren't burnt where the coil is broken and will glow with an igniter but when in the truck, it runs like shit and doesn't want to hold an idle. Temps are around 140-150 when idling and 180-230 when beating it. The low speed pinch test results in about 2 seconds of raised idle before it stalls and the high speed seems right in regards to temps, performance, smoke, and sound. Would you consider the dead plugs break-in woes or is there something I am doing wrong? -I saw a video where a guy commented that the hole in the crankshaft is on the smaller side when compared to the 3.3 and that opening it up may be an easy mod. Thoughts?
@@peterjemas7613 If you are eating glow plugs the engine isn't properly tuned you are running lean Also be sure to join the nitro rc Enthusiastic group on Facebook it will make it easier It's very hard to diagnose an issue over text message and the dynamite 19 also does have a larger hole in the grand shaft as well as different porting it is a 5 port the 3.3 is a 3 port
Thanks for the video, I have ordered a .19t for my Rustler. My trx2.5 has a piston missing most of the skirt, I believe it has been like that since I got it! I keep on thinking I should get a new piston and sleeve, then I remember for $30 more I can have another Dynamite engine with twice the horsepower as a spare. I do have a question, I have a few bottles of Werks 30% do you see any issue with running the engine in using 30%?
Hi, i purchased a dynamite 19 after watching one of your videos, i am looking for a Conrod but can't find any, can you tell me please if it s the same conrod than sh18 ?
I think there is too much play between rod and crankshaft, i once broke a conrod so i always check and replace if needed. I found sh 18 conrod looks the same but can't be sure.
Almost 6 gallons, still have great pinch, when piston is at high end point i check up and down, so you can see hole is becoming oval. How much fuel do you run a conrod?
What would be the signs of the engine not having the correct shimming, like how would it run because I am planning to make 0% nitro fuel and use it in my Novarossi Elite 5 so I don’t know if I would have to re shim the head
Just buy normal rc fuel it's the same price as 0% nitro 0% is harder tuning needs a hotter glow plug and more compression to run properly a gallon of 30/9 in the USA is like 35$ 0% nitro will cost you a lot more to buy everything then it's worth
If I want to run 30 percent in my novarossi do I need to use head shims? Plan on starting it for first time today. I have 30 percent fuel and noticed novarossi recommendations says 25 percent.
Unless it specifies changing cylinder had shims than no you do not the only reason white recommends 25% because in Europe that's the highest you can get lowest you can get is 16% So you are perfectly fine and safe to run 30%
@@HYEonDEATHROW nice Take your time with your break in process do not rush remember a longer break in process is better also pre heat your engine to as close as 200ﾟ as possible wheels off the ground something somewhere to be Adam Drake method
Can I buy that brand new .19 from you😅 I’m trying to get it for my nitro sport.15 I wanted to upgrade to a .19 dynamite but literally everywhere they are out of stock, lol just saying I would happily buy that new one from you
Yeah they are out of stock absolutely everywhere you could always go with an SH18 and modify it to work in place of the 50 in which isn't very hard to do and and they go just as fast and you can get parts for them since the dynamite 19 there's absolutely nothing available for which is really annoying
@@thebug4046 hey man, I can’t seem to find an sh .18 either, they kind of are out of stock to, I mean there is the nock off ones on Amazon, any idea where I could find one that’s not fake? Lol or any other any other sudjestions
I made a video a few years ago about one that was blown up but it wasn't mine and nope I haven't gone with novarossi in years because how expensive it was and no parts available
@@thebug4046 THANKS BUDDY AS SOON AS I CAN FIND A REAR MAIN BEARING FOR IT ILL TRY AND GET IT STARTED , BECAUSE ITS GOT A WEIRD ID ON THE BEARING THE OD IS CORECT BUT THE ID IS TO SMALL ON ALL THE BEARINGS I GOT AND ILL BE DAMED IF IM GOING TO PAY $120 FOR A BEARING AT THE LOCAL HOBBY SHOP
Dynamite 19 with a THS pipe kit and a quality 30/9 mix fuel and go with the atom Drake method for break in. I also have a rc group nitro/diesel/gas rc and more if you want to check it out just 2 questions I will let you in all nitro no BS lots of awesome people in there
Why mutilate the Losi. Get a Ten T. Its a fantastic platform. Way better then the Maxx. I have many Ten Scte. It can be run electric or Nitro. 😔 The Ten is my most beloved Rc in the whole collection
@@thebug4046 truck is not $500. They can be had for $150-$200. The parts go across the whole ten line. So there are 8 or different models making parts easy and cheap. I bought a used Rtr one with a castle system for $200 I can convert it to nitro easily. Just a thought. Its a really good platform. After you drive one you will thank me. But to each his own.
@@zackjay71 I live in Canada buddy you can sell an old Tmaxx for 400$ lol we didn't get a lot of what the USA got in my area. If I wanted the model the 3.4 came in I would have to pay out the ass for it to be shipped here for something you can't get parts for here that was discontinued 14 years ago. That 3.4 in the video is a junk bin engine I put together a few years ago the block was drilled out to fit something else the end of the crank was already munched from the pervasive owner and the starter parts are so far discontinued it was basically just make it fit run it till its warn out toss it in the junk bin or sell it for parts I don't feel bad about it.
@@thebug4046 Dang Im sorry to hear that. i knew Canada was rough. But not that rough. Do you know what other motors are compatible with the .19 like the Sh are? Im having trouble finding Sh parts on Ebay and amazon. Im determined to find a back plate and eliminate that pull start.
@@zackjay71 amane hobby usually has all kinds of SH stuff laying around. We run lots of SH 18s in stuff like rustlers and rc10gts and other small stuff. But for my tmaxx I have a 2.5R Traxxas engine with a OS 11K carburetor and 3.3 crank Ritter pipe and it pulls along pretty good for a ham sammich haha
