After watching your Luna folding bike review(massive hill climb), I have been watching endless e-bike videos trying to learn more. Thanks! I really like that Luna Folding E-bike and have investigated its availability. I'm 68, still working in tech support, I am a stroke survivor(19) and a liver transplant survivor(09). I can still walk but just not very well, so this whole e-bike thing has really captured my interest, especially being able to do trails with a relatively light bike. Keep up the GREAT VIDS!
Go for it! I'm over 65, I rode my ebike 700+ miles last year. I love my ebike so much, I keep it inside my residence. I have degenerative disk disease, and arthritis in my legs and back. Ebikes have allowed older people to get out and pedal. I just bought a new ebike last month, and I'm getting another new one soon. Ride safe!
Man, that was actually very thoughtful. Many many ppl don't even know they should know this stuff, bc it's common sense, an ebike owner would want to know this. Even if they didn't know that they want to know
@@TheFrickinShredder I'm one of the ppl that didn't know that I should know the battery stuff..and it helped me understand battery's. Esp getting the watts. Thanks again. It's 90 degrees in kentucky. 100% humidity. Summer started faster than normal here.
@@TheFrickinShredder i have question, if my electric bike with battery capacity 36 Volt, can i replace with another battery with higher voltage? For the example i will replace with 48 V or 52 V, it is safe?
Hey Shredder! Thanks for the great video. While I wait on my Eskute Polluno e-bike battery that's on backorder, I'm replacing my BMS board in my old battery with the hopes a bad BMS is the reason the battery suddenly stopped working. I literally rode the e-bike home, turned it off like I always do, and it had nearly a full charge. But when I went to ride it a few days later, it wouldn't power on. The battery reads 32 volts but the battery test button with lights show no power indication. When I connect the battery charger, the battery charger remains green and the battery still doesn't work. Replacement BMS boards are only about $20-$30 so it's worth a try given the new battery will set me back about $400. Anyway, the battery pack has a total of 50 individual cells, 5 battery cells stacked end-end in each row, and a total of 10 rows. The BMS connector has 11 tips, including the one ground. Am I correct in surmising this is a 10 cell battery design?
Thanks. I appreciate the support. Let me know if you’d like me to review any of your bikes. Many of my reviews have gotten over 10,000 views. Thanks. 🙂
I have 2 batteries for my bike - one is Lifepo4 and just 10amp hour for every day around town up to 10-mile use the other is a Li-ion 40amp hour for less frequent longer runs up to 45 miles - the beauty of this system is Lifepo4 has rapid charge & far more duty cycles - 4,000+ compared to 800
Great video! I’m wondering if it’s ok to take a backup battery with you for longer rides or can that damage your motor by using it for too long? I currently have a 250 watt motor with a 36 v 15 ah battery. It’s an electric Trike.
If I want a battery rebuilt or modified to a greater capacity, where could I go in Queensland or Australia to get this done? Does the controller need to be modified as well to match the battery?
I would like a standard battery for the Brompton, bolted to the frame and not in a front bag. Would it be possible to enclose a sufficient number of cells in a container of standard format but with a maximum length say about 300 millimeters? There are actually a couple of manufacturers that supply the frame-mounted battery, but they have particular shapes.
Curious, I’m thinking of purchasing the VITILAN i7 Pro 2.0 with a 48V 20AH battery it’s an additional $300 vs the 16AH I’m sure this Battery will offer a great deal of range. I’m curious if people think it’s worth the extra $300? Will I notice a significant difference in time if I’m using pedal assist mostly not full power thanks in advance!
I'm considering buying the highest capacity battery I can get, then mod it to connect to my Ancheer t266 since I can't find anything with a fitting connector. Buying a bunch of cells then matching them, you know in case of variation typical of all manufactured products, might be more of a pita at this point. The bike has just over 100 miles. Eventually the battery I have will be useless. Maybe it's best to get a common battery with a mount then swap that. Repurpose the old with the matching battery after replacing the cells. When I feel up to it.
In my experience, There's very little difference between 48v and 52v, Despite all the hype behind it with bikes including 52 now. Yeah you get tad more top speed (2 or 3mph max depending), And you do get some more watts (again, depending on how many amps you pushing), But more range? technically yes, But very little if all else is equal between the bikes.
There's a big difference between them, mostly depending on the controller it's paired with, But having used both with equal amps output the 52v will act more peppy for much more of its capacity, you know how your bike feels when it's fresh off the charger?, it's nice but it fades very fast, well a 52v will feel like that down to 25-30%. also keeping the volts up keeps the amps down, as your 50amp controller for example will pull 50amps at 58volts(2900w) and 50amps at 45volts (2,250w). This is the basis for why that one extra cell series makes a big difference. It keeps the controller fed with optimal voltage for longer.
I'm building one my voltage is 72v but the amps the motor control unit has a label is of 60 amps yet my battery only has 43 amps will it work, can I get away with lower Amp battery yet the correct voltage?
I took a battery module from a hybrid vehicle. 48 volts 38 amp hour capacity. How far do you think that can go? I never really tried yet because I just recently rigged it up, and I can feel it punches some power. It does have battery management system to protect it. I think best way to make battery is to get it from hybrid cars for example the 2016 malibu hybrid consist of modules which is 36 volts with large capacity. The lithium ion used are big cells with large capacity.
Hi hello sir, may I allow to ask a question and please help reply with your expertise on ebike battery. Yesterday when I was paddle my ebike at home with the parking stand mount on the floor, for testing the ebike speed, then suddenly my mother was talking to me, instead of I need to press the hand brake to stop the spining ebike, I turned off the ignition key, THEN I heard a "pop" sound (the motorhub was still in high speed spinning) I don't know the "pop" sound was came from the battery or came from the controller. Sir, may I ask in most of the cases, let say, if a person paddle the ebike halfway through, when the battery still on going supplying the energy into the controller, and the controller still on going supplying the power into the motorhub, and the motorhub still drawing power spinning at fast speed, then he turn off the ignition key OUT OF SUDDEN to cut off the ON GOING power supply intake from the battery, in this case what will happen to my battery? Sir, please help me, then I unpluged the ebike power plug from the battery, then I turn on the key ignition to purposely release the electric in the controller, then I plug the ebike power plug into the battery and heard a as usual spark sound. My concern now is, how do I know I already wound, injury, or damage my battery or not sir. Hope you understand my question, trillion thanks if you would please reply sir.
I have an issue. I took out my e-bike to ride. Then my motor stopped. I wasn’t able to turn it on again because it most likely the battery completely drained. Which is fine. However! When I got home. I switched the power button and checked and it looks like it still had one green bar left. So how is that possible? Is it possible that the battery can self recharge when all I did was walk with the bike? I don’t seem to understand how a supposedly dead battery somehow manages to recharge itself.
Thank you for the info..nice vid! Question - I have a 48v ebike. Can I take my spare battery (36v) with me on the back, as a backup battery? What would happen if I connected the xt-60s and tried to run the bike?
A 36V battery's maximum voltage is BELOW the minimum cutoff voltage of a 48V controller (usually coincidentally set to 42V). Thus a 36V battery won't work *_on an ebike setup for using a 48V battery_* SOME controllers may let you change the ebike's voltage parameter to 36V on the fly (eitther manually or via an "voltage autosense" feature), but many do not. Even if you have a dual 36V/48V controller, it still may not let you change the voltage on the fly and the 36V battery pack would remain useless. It shouldn't hurt the electronics to try using the 36V pack on a 48V controller, but even if it does work, your bike may act quite differently than it does when running on a 48V pack.
I have a bike with a 48v battery, and another bike with a 36v battery. I would like to be able to use both batteries so I can extend the range of my bike. I don’t want to have both connected at the same time, but replace one battery with the other one when the original becomes depleted. My question is, can I use a 36v battery on a bike that originally came with a 48v battery? Thanks fir the help, and for sharing the informative video.
@keepsmiling1484 said, _My question is, can I use a 36v battery on a bike that originally came with a 48v battery?_ Generally, no. The reason is that the 36V battery even with a full charge, is already at or below the minimum voltage the 48V ebike's controller will allow to be used. The controller's are designed to cut-off the power from the battery pack once it reaches the lowest voltage the battery can be depleted to before it causes damage to the battery. For example, a "36V" controller usually sets the battery pack's minimum safe voltage to ABOUT 30 Volts. A "48V" battery pack's minimum safe voltage is set to ABOUT 42 Volts. It should be noted that while the REAL safe voltage for modern lithium-ion cells may be a bit lower than those I provided above (eg a REAL 27V for a modern 36V battery pack), the controller programmers are providing a buffer in the "minimum safe voltage" to ensure the voltage isn't taken down too low. Older battery packs had higher minimum safe voltages (eg a REAL 30V for an older 36V battery pack). The impact of using a battery pack below the minimum safe voltage for that pack can be PERMANENT instantaneous damage to the battery, reduced lifetime of the battery, reduced number of recharge cycles, reduced voltage, reduced Amp-Hour capacity (which in turn means from then on you get fewer miles per charge), and even potentially catastrophic destruction of the battery including fire and/or explosion. So, the programmers make sure the ebike will turn itself off before the battery falls below that minimum safe voltage. ------------------------------------------------ Edit to add: Also, in a world where manufacturers may use cheap lithium cells, counterfeit cells, and/or counterfeit Battery Management System (BMS) circuits, one cannot rely on the safety methods and devices working. So the controller programmers add that one extra layer of protection to further reduce the chance of battery pack damage/destruction.
How do I match my battery choice (yes. I picked that first, partially based upon availability) to a bike? For instance. The QZF 48V 1000W 13 Ah 624 Wh battery... what flippin bike does it go with????!!!
Hello, please what do you think of duotts f26 bicycle, it's comes with Motor front and back 750w each total of 1,500, with battery of 48V 20AH , on a city of few hills , can the battery serve me well as a delivering guy?
I'm looking into buying battery gauge for my ebike, because the current display's 5-bar system is unreliable. I see that the battery gauges display the voltage - how do we read that into battery left? (as voltage changes up and down when you ride)
I know that we use double a batteries for the cell for e bikes . But why cant 9v batteries be used being that there would less weight to the overall weight of the bike. and can this be done for a bike like the emmo monster 84V. just asking why this has not be done. or can it be done. thx
Great video. Question...I'm new (self taught) to electrical engineering, repair + maintenance of ebikes. I installed a 4-light system on ebike - backlight, high beam (×1) and low beam (×2). I run everything through a 12v/24v power source (bank). Recently, I decided to add rocker switch (×2) to separate high be from low beam. I noticed that the LED indicators on the rockers will sometimes work, sometimes not but the lights will always work. I've looked for shorts, can't find anything. Power source is rated for 12v/24v. I register 28.5v on multimeter when everything is turned on. Could this be the cause why the rocker lights don't work? I've switched out rockers twice....same result. Hope u can help. Great video. /bklyn 👑
@@TheFrickinShredder 🤣🤣...and I promise my knowledge is very limited, bro. self taught and still learning problem by problem. Figured Id just reach out to someone. Thanks for reply. And for great video. /bklyn 👑
I'm building a 2 passenger quadricycle. Want as much range as I can get. I'm looking to put two rear 72v 5000 watt motors. It will weigh about 300 pounds plus passengers. Could you suggest some batteries for me to research.
Hello I have a question I have a 1000w front Ebike wheel conversion kit that I purchased but I don’t know what kind of battery I will need any idea ?? The wheel size is 20” it’s going on a lectric xp
I’m not an expert on batteries. I just did a lot of research. However I believe you can get a standard 48v battery with as many amp hours as you want. You can even consider a 52v battery.
Yes I have an Aventon Sinch folding ebike with Crest white. I have the black and white screen. How can I unlock the screen and increase the speed to it max.
My ebike battery 48V 10.4A after 10 month use fully changed for 3.5 hours , while at first for 5 hours ? Is it demaged ?! Aslo when i ride ebike shut down while bike screen shows 2 battery bars left from 5. But still my range is 30km as at first ?!
Batteries do degrade over time. Your seems to be having problems kind of early but it does sound like a battery issue. See if it’s covered by warranty.
On my bike display it gives you the watts in real time so that you see how efficiently you're using the motor or so they say. Maybe you could explain this in another video.
Dual batteries wired in series would increase voltage and amp hours? I’m thinking it’s more affordable to have two 48v 20ah batteries instead of purchasing a 72v 25a battery. In theory two 48v 20 ah batteries would be 96v 40ah.
I'm very new to ebikes. If you have 10 seconds I have a quick question sir; if someone was running 2 hub motors and their combined max current from the controllers was 60 amps, and you used a battery with 50amp BMS (52v 20ah), what would happen? If you ran WOT you may trip the BMS of the battery and it come back on after a few seconds? Or something worse? Thank you!
I wish I could answer that question for you but it’s beyond my level of understanding. Sorry. My understanding is one battery per motor. But I could be wrong. Good luck with everything. I wish you well. You’ll love ebiking!!
@@TheFrickinShredder The battery BMS will only allow the maximum amp rated for battery safety. In his case it's 50amp, which means the controller would output 50amps and each motor would be inputting 25amps each from the controller.
You would need to look at the specs for the battery. Many times a 50 amp BMS will allow 50 amps continous. Usually there is some higher amperage allowed for shorter periods of time. That might mean a hard acceleration could be sustaiined, but a long term high load (very long uphill) might have the BMS shut down. Some BMS will reactivate when the load is removed. Others need to have a voltage input into the charging or the main leads of the battery to wake them again. It is best to have a battery capable of the highest sustained load of the motor or motors. Or use two batteries each of which can support the attached motor. For example I added a front hub motor to an eBike that had a rear hub motor. I used two batteries for that bike. When I gave it to my son, I put in a heavy duty 48 volt battery (front motor was 48 volt) and a step down converter to 36 volts for the 36 volt rear motor. The battery pack was capable of providing 200 amps so it was not the limiting factor. My current eBike has a Cyclone motor that will run on any battery from 48 volts to 84 volts. I have used various batteries on that bike. Currently I have a 72 volt 15 amp hour on it for 30 miles of range at 10 mph. I have a numerous additional batteries I can carry along if I need more range especially riding woods trails or the beaches.
I have a 48 volt 19.2 amp battery and I would like to keep it in good condition. What is the minimum safe voltage and the voltage to never exceed? thank's
Hi i have a 1500w motor with a LCDH 8 display i have upgraded to a 52v 17ah battery the problem I’m getting is when i have done around 10 miles and i use the throttle the display keeps shutting down and shutting the bike down if I reset the battery it comes back on again but soon as i touch the throttle all shuts down again if i just use pedal assist it carries on working and my battery capacity indicator on the display reads I still have 3 bars left any advice would be helpful thanks Kevin
@@TheFrickinShredder hi thanks for replying that did cross my mind as well. is there any setting in my display that would help with the problem I could alter the controller I’m using is 48v rated current 22A maximum current 45+2 thanks Kevin
@@TheFrickinShredder thanks mate. I'm loving your videos. Great insights. I bought a converted e-bike with a 3 pin yose battery. Should I wait until the battery goes to the last dot/ bar (red) before charging?
I have a Ariel rider d class running a 48v 21ah battery can I run a 36v 24ah battery parallel and if so will it affect performance meaning torque or speed. What I’m hoping to do is increase range?
I would stick with 48v for a bike that size and weight. You might need a new controller with a 36v. Everything I read says to run a 36v battery only with a 36v controller. So you could run a 36v in parallel but you’d prob need a separate controller. Check out spark Cycleworks they have a battery blender that might help.
Thanks for the video!! I build a 2000w 48v Fat tire mini bike , me on that weight approx 400 pounds and I order a 48v 20Ah 50Amp . Do you think that will have enough tork ?
I have same problem if you get higher voltage you get more efficient and use less amps but you actually will use about the same cells but you will be way faster so you can make have more range in less time if you use a 72v motor if you go 48 you will have less velocity (we talking the same watts our a battery capable of 2000w per hour) so it will be slower less efficient and less Range with for a 1000w is okey 48 for 2000 is better 60 or 72 less is not good 1000 w motor ar nominal power it means commonly the motor brings that power but in reality a 1000w motor brings 1500 power in some moments of high consum so 2000w can make more power in some moments a 48v 20amp battery is not meant to feed a 2000 motor in full speed you could use it but at less than 80% of its power its complex you must have a bms capable of allowing enough amps to the motor and good cells 2000w with 48v needs 41 amps per hour
@@leonardolarocca1999 Thanks for such a great information. I already got new battery 48v28.8ah 50 BMS. Motor 48v2000w45A BMS and max speed 60. I think I made right choose. I
So if my e-bike came with a stock 48 V battery I have to stay with that if I want to buy another battery correct? Or can I buy a 72V battery that originally came with a 48 V? Also if my bike came with a 12 Ah battery can I buy a new battery with say 16Ah or do you have to buy the same Ah battery that it came with?
@@TheFrickinShredder definitely need to upgrade controller…or you might have some problems. Your controller may be a dual controller like mine, i,e, 36/48v controller or 48/52v controller, etc. Check specs first. imo, ALWAYS purchase the most amp-hours you can afford for your battery configuration….you’ll thank yourself later. Personally, i only buy ebike batteries with a minimum of 20 amp-hours. Long term investment. /Bklyn👑
Does the power of the motor change anything? Like I have a 750 wat, 14 amphour 48v bike wanna upgrade to 1500 watt 30AmpHour 52v will that be twice as much?
The motor changed the torque and top speed. The difference between a 48v and 52v battery won’t change power but doubling the motor will have a substantial impact on power and speed!!!
@@TheFrickinShredder Wups I wasn't quite clear...how will that impact the battery? Will the additional outpower reduce distance? Only if I'm going full speed? Hard questions thanks for the response btw.
@@MrTapsa.Yes. The motor will just take it. But not too extreme, it would be better to go a lil bigger on the motor anyway to get the most out of your system. To be safe, unless you're an educated ebike builder, pro or amateur, just match the volts with all your components. Motor, battery, controller
Hey one question i have a fly10 e bike which has 72v 45 amp battery how many hours will it last any idea? I went 6hrs without any problems don't know if i can drive more
@@cherrylin7449 Oh, ok! And what about if it's declassified can I still use the pedals and throttle as is, or just the throttle because the C961 display has 3 modes ( Sport = Throttle, ECO Mode= Pedal Assist, and Walking Mode ). How would I be able to switch between the 3 modes in which I might need to use 2 modes ( Sport, and ECO ).
Great video. Question, my battery is 48v 20ah. My controller is 48v 20ah. Manufacturer upgrade from 20ah b/c none in stock. Will this combo work? Heard it could damage battery. I use PAS too when riding. Hope you can help. /Bklyn👑
