Hi Pamo, excellent video by yourself and a lifesaver to be completely honest, based in NI so Mr Vanos was a trek away. i tackled my S50B30 yesterday following rough idle when warm. O-ring upgrade and rattle kit as well as an oil Change today. Did all solenoid filters and dry solder joint checks before, so like new now. Now no hesitation in low rpm and rough idle has disappeared. Cheers Again 👍
So today I finally got around to doing this. Thanks for taking the time to make a great tutorial. Unfortunately someone had already been in mine and I've found the plastic washer on the oil pressure valve with a crack all the way through one side . 😭
Hi! Is neccessary the specific timing tools for the s50b30 timing process? I’m looking for the tools and all of kits seems to fit both s54 and s50 and they are a bit suspicious …
Hi Pamo, great vid and watch your others with interest, i am following your advice as i have exact same problem with my M3. A couple of questions please ...... I have tested my solenoids with a 9v battery, they are clicking but not as loud as yours it seems? does this mean they are OK? as im using just the standard 9v battery..........also what was the outcome of your vanos work here,did it cure the rough idle etc? thanks in advance
Hi Steve, thanks for watching. If the solenoids are clicking then they are working - but the sound should be a positive tick, I wouldn't worry about the volume here as the video had the audio enhanced to demonstrate the sound. As for the rough idle - yes it did have an affect and fixed the murmur . It was the final chink in the armour along with shims, split rubber hoses, worn plugs and all the other usual 25 year old BMW parts I've changed.
@@ManSeeksCivic thats good to hear m8, mines 28 this year......ive had it 3 years and the bugger is still running crap after numerous parts and inlet on and off, mine bogs down between 2-3k and idles shite,i did the TPS few weeks ago and its pulling better but still not idling......i took upper solenoid out and the large rubber ring was broken in 2? so im hoping to get away with the new seals kit for them both, circular filters seem ok?
Ugh, you've had fun. It's all worth it in the end - the satisfaction of fixing issues like this never gets old - especially when you've invested so much effort. I'd change the filters whilst you're in there, for the cost of them it's not worth the doubt down the line. Good luck sir 👍
Hello! I am monting vanos again on my s50b30. But i dont know how to find out how the spline/gear that goes inn to the intake cam sits! Do you know a easy way to find out?
It doesnt matter which orientation it goes in, just how much it goes in. Google the "besian systems s50b30 rattle repair document", it describes the process perfectly with great pictures.
Hello again.. when i torque to spec the bolts for the sprocket(10nm) its getting to tight. Så the vanos wont work.. even whit the 24mm on the camshaft in turning the engien insted of just the cam
hello mate, got one question while pulling spline gear out of sprocket do i need to loosen all the allen bolts? my engine is broken over 10 years fells like vanos not working at all the only problem i can find is that both of my gears are impossible to move anywhere until allens are loose... 🙁
Provided the vanos unit is removed from the head you should be able to rock the cams back and forth which will pop the vanos helical gear out of the sprocket. You shouldn't be loosening the cap head allen bolts in the sprocket at all. The cams can feel seized, this is normal but they should move with a reasonable amount of force. When you say your gears are impossible to move, can you elaborate a little?
@@ManSeeksCivic i do really think that vanos diaphragm spring and washer will be involved in this problem because nothing else cannot cause such a problem (probably nothing else), it seems like my hub pushes straight on sprocket and makes it really hard to move even with bolts finger tight, One more question, if assembled correctly sprocket should not be touching directly any surfaces on the hub and locking ring so a sprocket will not be pressed by hub and ring. In this case just small amount of force is required to move whole assembly back and forth, which is not my case. Since 2008 noone was able to find problem why vanos isnt working. S50B32 should not feel slugish with bad thottle response, solenoids Ok, vanos rebuild twice, brand new accumulator, vanos holds pressure in all conditions and no fault codes compression 12.5 bar all the cylinders no starting issues hot or cold and no stalling just rough cold running around 800rpm and hot idle absolutely smooth but really high at 1000-1100 rpm
@@ManSeeksCivic no, gear does not gonna move just by rocking camshaft you need 2 persons one just rocking camshaft and another pulling spline gear outward of hub , even though it is really hard to extract, takes about 5 minutes with luck cuz it moving just by a small amount, doubt that vanos can easily controll that spline gear
I'd agree and sadly the only way your going to crack this is by removing the sprocket and inspecting all the parts. The helical gear shouldn't stick in like you're describing.
Thanks for that I did make a start on it I just put car in gear and pushed it forward and lined up the cams No guaze left in solonoid filters at all so trying to find some replacements
Nice one, the lack of gauze is surprising. There used to be a UK company that produced them but this seems to be a non starter now. If you find some, please update us with some info 👍. Good luck.
I might have some good 2nd hand ones coming from doritech One thing I wanted to ask where does the tubular small filter go I you had one in a bag on the bench that you placed solonoid cover on top of