doing this right now on my e30 m52b28 .. over heating issues, but i caught onto it quite quick, so the cylinderhead should be good, your videos are helping plenty
good man im glad, there are several other Vanos Install vids and even I got lost when trying to watch them lol not to mention noone ever shows how to set the gearing up properly
your way was so easy, i did it twice just to be sure. i have great compression accross the board and no binding. i can rotate the motor and when im at TDC i can just drup the cam locks on. i think the real key is having the tensioner setup JUST RIGHT.
It works on M50's and i want to say m42's or something like that, and yes you need it. You can get around not having it by taking the spring out of your actual tensioner and replacing it with pennies.
I have a question bossman, I align the holes of the exhaust cam sprocket like your video up and all the holes to the left. When I put the tensioner in the holes move is that Normal? Do I HAVE to use the tenisoner tool?
Im about to do mine i ordered the dr vanos stage 2 kit with new cam gears (oem) and their instructions say to have the arrows flat with the head and bolt holes centered. I see both methods used online so im really confused right now lol
alright, well go with whatever you decide lol, Im sure the guys over at Dr Vanos know what they are talking about. however, this is my preferred way because I have done it like this for years and it works every time for me. but do it however you decide, if the Dr Vanos way works than that works too, if not, you can use this method.
Do you need and lower tensioner dummy when you do not lose the main chain if your only doinig the upper chain tensioner and upper chain gide and spring diaframe
chain tensioner is off? chain might be bound up on the crank pulley as well, id rotate the crank back and fourth a bit to see if it will give. you raised the head by thousandths of an inch, not enough to cause the chain to be too short.
on the main cam gear? it should line up on the left with no tension on it. make sure the crank is at TDC then rotate the main cam gear until it sits on the left like it should. rotate it like I do at 4:39
hey bro, me again. you got any torque specs for the arches? I forget what you actually called them but i realized they were jus screwed back in after it was machined.
Thanks for this video series. Doing the Vanos on my E39 with M52 engine. My flywheel lock pin is in and the crank is locked, but the TDC marks on the crank pulley don’t line up with the mark in the block. When I line up the TDC marks, the flywheel lock pin doesn’t go in. Got any advice?
M3NACE This is with the Vanos off. I’m not the original owner of the car so who knows what’s been done before. The previous owner did tell me he replaced the head gasket. Should I use the TDC markings to set timing and completely ignore the flywheel lock pin? It’s only off by 2 teeth. Weird right!
so I would go by the crank on the front. I would try to get the lock pin in while the front timing mark is at TDC, move the crank at the front back and fourth while pushing the lock pin in and see if it clicks in. if it doesnt, I would take a long screwdriver and stick in down the plug hole for cylinder 1 and confirm that it is acually TDC and go from there. both the front crank pulley and the flywheel have dowel pins and It would be hard to install them incorrectly.
M3NACE I guess using a long screwdriver in cylinder 1 and turning the motor until the screwdriver reaches it highest point of travel will ensure TDC. It’ll be interesting to see what lines up, the lock pin or the TDC markings.
Dude sorry to bombard you but wanna do this right, My 95 M50 looks to have the bolt holes centered ( Like Hans Garage ) , Not like yours.. Car ran fine before I took it apart but always felt slow, I know M50s arnt fast but felt slower than my M20 E30..... Maybe it was wrong and a previous owner didnt time it right. Heres a pic how mines looks as is - www.dgccr.com/bmw/chain.JPG should I adjust mine to be like yours? Looks like I may have to adjust the gear 1-2 teeth to the right then the arrow will be pointing up vs to the left a little.
the tensioner tool needs to go on before you start tightening the hardware for the exhaust side (the 4 torx bolts) then once the vanos is completely on the real tensioner will go on last.
